Joi-lfsl  IN 


•    2 


PORTLAND 


JOH^T   IS"EAL. 


PORTLAND : 

W.   S.   JONES,  PUBLISHER. 
1874. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1874,  by 

W.  8.  JOXES, 
in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


PORTLAND: 
EUSTIS  &  CASTELL,  PBIXTERS. 


PORTLAND : 

PAST  — PRESENT    AND    FUTURE. 


That  Portland  has  never  had  justice,  nor  indeed,  anything  like  justice  done 
her,  begins  to  be  felt  and  acknowledged  by  pleasure-seekers  and  the  great 
business-world. 

Her  capabilities,  advantages  and  resources  are  found  to  be  absolutely  surpris- 
ing, when  carefully  investigated ;  so  that,  in  giving  an  account  of  them,  one 
can  hardly  avoid  the  appearance  of  great  exaggeration. 

Whole  generations  have  passed  away  since  our  ship-building,  our  fisheries,  our 
lumbering  operations,  our  adventurous  temper,  and  the  beauty  of  our  women ; 
our  commercial  enterprize,  and  our  readiness  to  take  the  field  with  "a  fire  in 
our  bones,"  whenever  called  upon  by  our  country,  or  threatened  by  interlopers, 
red  men  or  white,  have  been  talked  about  over  sea,  and  everywhere  among  our- 
selves, more  as  if  we  were  not  only  "a  peculiar  people  zealous  of  good  works," 
but  numerous,  warlike  and  powerful,  with  slumbering  energies  of  a  somewhat 
dangerous  character,  than  as  a  small,  sober,  christianized  community,  self-pos- 
sessed, industrious  and  thrifty,  and  at  home  everywhere,  on  land  or  sea. 

Beginning  with  a  liberal  contribution  of  men  to  our  first' Indian  war,  of  1G75, 
and  furnishing  four  companies  in  1745,  finishing  off  with  five  thousand  alto- 
gether in  the  Great  Rebellion,  to  say  nothing  of  intermediate  periods,  nothing 
of  the  second  Indian  war  in  1688,  when  Portland,  then  Falmouth,  was  utterly 
destroyed  for  the  second  time,  and  the  whole  population,  amounting  to  six  or 
seven  hundred,  were  obliged  to  flee  for  their  lives,  followed  by  the  French  and 
their  savage  alies,  until  Church,  who  had  been  so  greatly  distinguished  in  the 
war  witli  Philip  of  Mount-Hope,  came  to  their  relief  with  six  or  eight  compan- 
ies ;  nothing  of  Louisburg  and  the  French  war ;  nothing  of  the  Revolutionary 
war  in  1776,  when  the  town  was  laid  in  ashes  by  Mowatt;  nothing  of  the 
Mexi'-an  war,  and  the  war  with  Great  Britian  from  1812  to  1815,  Portland 
never  shrank,  nor  faltered,  in  the  discharge  of  her  duty  to  herself  and  her 
country. 

But  notwithstanding  these  wars,  and  the  terrible  embargo  which  desolated 
our  wharves,  and  the  non-importation  acts,  and  non-intercourse  laws,  Portland 
continued  her  flourishing  career. 

And  yet,  until  we  were  burnt  over  in  1866,  and  our  Board  of  Trade  sprang  up 
of  itself,  somewhat  like  the  new  growth,  after  a  great  fire  through  an  aboriginal 
wilderness,  followed  by  the  Board  of  Manufacturers,  and  after  a  while,  by  the 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

late  Industrial  Exhibition,  which  we  are  but  just  through  with,  so  that  we 
have  hardly  yet  recovered  from  our  surprise,  we  had  no  true  knowledge  of 
ourselves,  and  of  our  capabilities. 

And  now,  after  seeing  our  future  foreshadowed  with  the  distinctness  of 
Hebrew  prophecy,  and  our  inevitable  growth  revealed  to  us,  with  all  our  hidden 
capabilities  advantage  and  resources,  and  our  silent,  unostentatious  achieve- 
ments within  the  last  few  years,  hitherto  but  imperfectly  understood,  or  wholly 
overlooked,  by  the  wisest  among  us,  what  is  there  to  stay  our  progress  hereafter, 
as  a  manufacturing  population?  or  to  hinder  the  growth  of  our  commerce  and 
business  character?  since  in  1870  our  manufacturing  products  amounted  to  no 
less  than  $9,000,000,  though  we  never  knew  it,  until  the  report  of  the  Board  of 
Manufacturers  appeared. 

Having  been  tried  by  fire,  and  in  a  measure  purged,  purified,  and  set  a-think- 
ing,  we  have  begun  to  question  ourselves,  and  to  ask  in  all  seriousness,  whether 
we  have  not  been  shamefully  blind  to  some  of  our  peculiar  advantages,  strange- 
ly neglectful  of  our  greatest  privileges,  and  correspondingly  unthankful. 

To  have  been  so  long  unacquainted  with  ourselves,  and  only  to  have  waked 
up,  within  the  last  few  months,  would  appear  unaccountable ;  but  then,  we  are 
now  in  earnest,  and  by  calling  upon  our  business-men  to  bestir  themselves,  and 
rousing  our  whole  community,  as  by  a  thunder-peal  at  dead  of  night,  we  have 
succeeded  in  astonishing  not  only  outsiders,  travelers  and  strangers  in  search 
of  the  picturesque  and  beautiful,  but  our  largest  property-holders,  and  the  most 
far-seeing  and  sagacious  of  our  business-men,  however  well  acquainted  with 
our  past  doings  and  history,  they  had  supposed  themselves  to  be. 

For  a  long  time,  agriculture  throughout  our  whole  neighborhood  was  neglected , 
and  the  best  energies  of  our  population  were  employed  in  lumbering,  then, 
in  the  West-India  trade,  then,  partly  in  freighting,  and  partly  in  the  Russian 
trade,  so  that  we  were  known  only  as  a  commercial  association,  regardless  alike 
of  manufacturers  and  agriculture. 

But  times  have  changed.  Our  railroads,  with  sixty-five  trains,  entering  and 
leaving  daily.  Our  dry  docks,  one  of  which  is  four  hundred  and  twenty-five 
feet  long  by  one  hundred  feet  in  width,  and  of  a  depth  greater  than  that  of  any 
other  in  the  United  States,  being  twenty-three  feet,  while  even  the  smaller  is 
one  hundred  and  seventy-five  by  eighty  feet  with  a  draught  of  twelve  feet ;  our 
water  supply  the  purest  we  know  of  anywhere,  as  proved  by  careful  and  patient 
analysis,  from  a  lake  seventeen  miles  off,  and  measuring  two  hundred  square 
miles,  at  an  elevation  of  two  hundred  and  forty-seven  feet  above  tide  water, 
with  a  reservoir  containing  twelve  millions  of  gallons,  upon  a  hill  which  of 
itself  stands  175  1-2  feet  above  tide  water,  for  the  supply  of  our  largest  wants ; 
our  horse  railroads,  our  gas-company,  and  our  manufacturers,  of  which  some- 
thing is  to  be  said  hereafter,  all  these  have  had  their  awakening  influences ; 
and  co-operating  as  they  do,  all  at  once,  are  we  not  fully  justified  in  our  largest 
expectations  ? 

Consider  for  a  moment  what  our  people  have  gone  through  with  from  the 
first.  Three  times  utterly  "scattered  and  peeled,"  wasted  and  ravaged,  since 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  5 

our  forefathers  first  took  possession  of  the  peninsula  on  which  our  city  is  built, 
first  known  as  Machigonne,  from  Match!,  bad,  and  gon,  clay,  and  then,  as  the 
Neck,  or  Casco-Neck ;  twice  by  the  red  men  of  the  wilderness,  and  the  white 
savages  of  Canada,  and  once  by  our  brothers  of  England,  when  the  bombard- 
ment over,  and  the  torches  thrown  aside,  there  were  left  standing  of  the  four 
hundred  and  fourteen  buildings  which  constituted  our  picturesque,  thrifty  and 
beautiful  village,  only  here  and  there  the  shattered  skeletons  of  about  a  hundred, 
no  less  than  thirteen  of  which,  however,  managed  to  outlive  all  the  chances  and 
changes  of  tempest  and  fire,  from  1776  to  1866,  when  they  disappeared  forever, 
along  with  the  goodliest  part  of  our  new  Portland,  in  the  flash  and  roar  of  that 
bewildering  conflagration,  which  overswept  all  our  chief  treasure-houses  and 
buried  most  of  our  household  gods  in  a  storm  of  white  ashes — of  which  a  word 
or  two  just  here. 

Within  about  sixteen  hours,  the  whole  business  part  of  Portland  was  utterly 
destroyed.  Eight  miles  of  thoroughfare  closely  built,  out  of  the  forty-seven 
miles  of  streets  we  measure,  not  including  courts  and  ways,  with  fifteen  hundred 
buildings,  covering  at  the  lowest  computation  one  hundred  and  thirty  acres,  out 
of  the  sixteen  hundred,  and  sixty-six  acres,  comprised  within  the  city  boundar- 
ies, of  which  hardly  a  fourth  part  was  built  over,  were  laid  in  ashes. 

Arranged  in  a  line,  these  fifteen  hundred  buildings  would  extend  sixteen 
miles.  Among  them  were  the  Custom-House,  the  Post-Office  and  U.  S.  Law 
Courts,  all  under  one  roof,  built  from  the  celebrated  granite  of  Kennebunk- 
port,  said  by  the  geologist  and  architect  sent  to  us  by  the  Czar  of  Russia,  to  be 
the  best  building  material  known,  and  believed  to  be  fire-proof,  with  its  brick 
floors,  iron  girders  and  arches,  and  costing  over  $500,000 ;  the  New  City  Hall  of 
Albert-stone,  with  ends  of  pressed  brick,  a  magnificent  and  stately  pile  which 
cost  us  $648,000;  our  Museum  of  Natural  History,  our  Athemeum,  all  our 
public  and  many  of  our  private  libraries,  eight  churches,  together  with  no  less 
than  thirteen  large  blocks  of  stores  and  warehouses,  Wood's  marble  hotel  six 
stories  high,  and  Brown's  sugar-house,  with  its  outlying  warehouses  and 
appendages  covering  whole  acres  of  ground,  to  say  nothing  of  our  law  offices, 
not  one  of  which  escaped,  our  newspaper  establishments,  insurance  offices  and 
banks,  all  of  which  passed  away  like  shadows,  in  that  hurricane  of  unquench- 
able fire. 

Our  loss  at  the  time  of  the  fire,  was  estimated,  or  rather  under-estimated 
at  $10,000,000 

Insurance  paid,  3,159,450 

Cash  contributions,  600,000 

$3,759,450 


Net  loss  therefore,  $6,240,550 

being  about  one-fifth  of  our  valuation,  and  quite  of  a  piece  with  what  has  just 
happened  to  Chicago,  for  the  second  time  within  three  years,  though  I  find  the 
loss  estimated  to-day,  from  four  to  six  millions.  Seventeen  hundred  buildings 
were  destroyed  and  one  hundred  and  fifty-seven  acres  burned. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

But  then,  it  must  be  remembered  that  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  years,  or  so, 
We  had  little  to  brag  of  except  our  beautiful  women,  al \vays  ranked  with  the 
women  of  Philadelphia,  Providence  and  Baltimore,  our  fine  ships,  our  lumber- 
ing and  our  fisheries.  We  had  no  manufactories,  no  cultivated  farms  worth 
mentioning,  to  supply  our  wants,  no  public  buildings  to  be  compared  with  what 
we  have  now,  no  statesmen,  no  artists,  no  painters,  no  poets,  no  authors,  no 
capitalists  and  no  idlers,  from  the  time  that  Falmouth  was  ';setoff"  or  rather 
"cast  off,"  from  old  Massachusetts  in  1(559,  up  to  1820,  when  the  District  of 
Maine,  as  it  was  then  called,  sloughed  off  altogether  in  somewhat  of  a  hurry, 
and  by  a  single  effort,  with  a  magnanimous  disregard  of  consequences  on  her 
part,  as  well  as  on  that  of  our  mother  State,  and  became  forthwith  one  of  this 
great  Commonwealth  of  Nations,  with  a  territory  about  as  large  as  all  the  rest 
.of  New  England;  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  Connecticut  and  New  Hamp- 
shire; containing  31, 3i>5  square  miles  to  their  32,316,  with  water  accessible  from 
every  point  along  our  sea  coast,  and  a  frontage  on  the  Atlantic  of  more  than 
four  hundred  miles. 

And  now  for  Portland  — a  brief  outline  sketch  of  our  strange  history  may 
not  be  out  of  place  here. 

Originally  what  is  now  Portland  was  called  Machigonne  by  the  Indians,  then 
Casco-Bay,  then  the  Neck,  and  then  Falmouth  by  the  first  settlers,  after  a 
Village  standing  at  the  mouth  of  Fal,  a  river  in  Cornwall,  England. 

At  this  time,  the  territory  of  Falmouth  contained  about  eighty  square  miles, 
and  included  Cape-Elizabeth,  Westbrook,  the  peninsula  on  which  Portland  is 
built,  then  called  the  Neck,  Deeriiig,  and  some  other  towns  incorporated  at  long 
intervals. 

In  Hubbaru^s  narrative  between  1607  and  1677,  speaking  of  Casco-Bay,  he 
says  "On  the  south  side  of  it  is  a  small  village  called  Falmouth,  all  or  most  of 
it  lately  destroyed  by  fire." 

Although  the  neck,  or  peninsula  on  which  the  city  is  built,  contains  but  1,666 
acres,  the  islands  within  her  jurisdiction  furnish  2,951  acres  more,  pre-eminently 
varied,  beautiful  and  picturesque,  with  fine,  though  not  very  large  farms, 
abundant  forest  growth,  capital  fishing,  and  the  best  of  sea-bathing  and  boating. 
And  negotiations  are  now  under  way,  which  are  likely  to  eventuate  in  the 
annexation  of  Cape-Elizabeth,  or  a  large  part  thereof,  and  much,  if  not  the 
whole  of  Deering,  formerly  a  part  of  Westbrook. 

Occupying  but  portions  of  territory  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  averag- 
ing about  a  mile  in  width,  although  some  parts  are  much  wider,  all  open  to  the 
sea,  with  two  elevations,  Bramhall  on  the  west,  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
and  a-half  feet,  and  Munjoy,  one  hundred  and  sixty-one  feet  above  tide-water  on 
the  east,  with  a  high  ridge  running  between  them  the  whole  length  of  the  city, 
and  covered  with  handsome  buildings,  public  and  private,  and  a  magnificent 
growth  of  trees,  over  three  thousand  now,  opening  like  forest  avenues  into  the 
wilderness,  and  sloping  both  ways  to  the  water,  so  that  the  city  drains  itself, 
Portland  may  now  be  regarded  as  not  only  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  and 
attractive,  but  as  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  world. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED,  7 

With  the  Atlantic  ocean,  on  one  side,  crowded  with  the  islands  of  Casco  Bay  | 
and  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire— the  Switzerland  of  America  — 
on  the  other,  so  that  the  air  Is  winnowed  all  the  year  through ;  with  a  hound- 
less  horizon — a  magnificent  panorama— visible  from  every  part  of  the  town  and 
from  almost  every  house,  we  may  venture  to  challenge  comparison  with  any 
city,  either  at  home  or  abroad. 

And  then,  we  have  our  Marginal-way,  nearly  five  miles  in  length,  and  one 
hundred  feet  in  width,  running  all  round  the  city,  one-half  in  the  front,  full  of 
sub>tantial  wharves,  where  vessels  of  the  largest  class  may  lie  in  thirty  feet  of 
water,  and  the  other  half  on  the  back  side,  where  forty  steamers  of  four 
hundred  feet  in  length  may  lie  in  safety,  without  interference,  while  receiving, 
or  discharging  their  cargoes ;  with  one  of  the  largest,  deepest  and  safest  harbors 
in  the  world,  never  frozen  over,  and  easy  of  access  at  all  seasons  without  a  pilot ; 
so  that  a  new  steamer  of  the  National  line,  the  Canada,  of  4270  tons,  and  draw- 
ing twenty-three  feet  of  water,  has  just  verified  the  fact,  and  left  us,  to  return 
hereafter  once  a  month,  while  the  other  British  steamers  are  continuing  their 
regular  weekly  and  fortnightly  trips  for  six  months  of  the  year.  With  all  these 
advantages,  what  have  we  to  fear? 

Let  it  be  remembered  moreover,  that  we  are  lying  half  a  day's  sail  nearer 
to  Europe  than  any  other  port  in  the  United  States,  and  on  the  shortest 
pos-ible  line  through  to  the  Pacific,  ready  to  take  toll  both  ways,  when  the 
National  thoroughfare  is  opened  to  Japan,  China,  and  the  great  Eastern  world. 

And  here,  in  addition  to  what  has  already  been  gathered  from  Parson  Smith's 
Diary,  beginning  in  1710,  and  ending  in  1787;  from  Willis,  our  indefatigable. 
minute  and  conscientious  annalist;  from  the  report  of  Walter  Wells,  Secretary 
of  the  Board  of  Manufacturers;  from  our  Portland  Directory,  so  faithfully 
i-Mi<-<l.  year  after  year,  by  Mr.  Beckett,  and  the  last  report  from  our  Board  of 
Trade,  so  comprehensive  and  satisfactoiy,  compiled  by  Mr.  Rich,  the  Secretary, 
some  of  the  following  items  may  not  be  without  value. 

A  settlement  was  made  at  Phipsburg  in  1007  —  thirteen  years  before  the  Ply- 
mouth Fathers  appeared. 

The  first  meeting  house  was  built  in  1740,  at  the  comer  of  Middle  and  India 
streets.  It  was  of  one  story,  without  seats  and  unglazed.  After  a  while,  it  was 
used  for  a  town-house,  and  then  for  a  school-house  up  to  1774,  when  it  was 
carted  off. 

The  Neck,  then  called  Machigonne,  was  first  occupied  in  1032  —  when  the 
first  tree  of  the  dark  forest  then  covering  the  whole  territory  of  what  is  now 
Portland,  was  felled. 

Falmouth,  in  1079,  had  a  population  of  six  or  seven  hundred,  while  the  whole 
of  New  England  contained  only  200,000.  In  1753,  the  population  of  the  NceU 
wa->  7^0 — of  Falmouth  2712,  including  thirty-one  slaves,  one  of  which,  by  the 
way,  was  held  by  Parson  Smith  himself. 

Portland  was  incorporated  in  1780,  with  a  population  of  2000.  In  1870,  the 
population  had  increased  to  31,418,  and  is  now  nearly  35,000  at  least. 

In  1G87  one  "store"  was  licensed,  the  first,  and  was  built  on  Bay,  below  Broad 


8  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

street,  afterward  King,  and  now  India-street.  The  first  brick  building  was  put 
up  in  1785,  by  General  Wadsworth,  and  is  now  owned  and  occupied  by  the  Long- 
fellow heirs.  The  first  brick  store  was  built  by  Capt.  N.  Deering  at  the  foot  of 
Exchange-street  in  1795.  In  1802,  the  first  brick  school-house  appeared,  when 
thirty-three  houses  were  added  to  the  others. 

In  1750  there  were  136  dwelling  houses  on  the  Neck  and  four  warehouses ;  and 
now,  within  the  last  six  months  we  have  built  seventy  dwelling-houses  of  a 
superior  class  in  general,  and  several  large  and  substantial  warehouses.  Yet 
more  — 

We  furnished  altogether  about  5000  men  for  the  last  war,  paid  bounties 
amounting  to  428,970  dollars,  with  interest  on  a  much  larger  amount  after  the 
State  "equalization." 

In  1783,  after  the  peace,  we  had  only  two  religious  societies,  the  First  Parish 
and  the  Episcopal;  we  have  now  thirty-five. 

In  1787,  the  Second  Congregational  church  was  built,  and  then,  followed  the 
Friends,  with  their  brick  meeting-house  in  1795,  at  the  corner  of  Federal  and 
School,  now  Pearl-street. 

Our  tonnage  is  over  100,000;  imports  for  '72,  23,000,000,  exports  22,000,000  — 
an  increase  of  four  millions  both  on  the  imports  and  exports  of  '71.  The  Treas- 
ury Report  for  '73  has  not  been  made  up. 

We  have  six  National,  and  two  Savings  banks,  in  full  operation  and  exceed- 
ingly prosperous. 

There  were  10,447  entries  of  merchandise  in  '72;  and  our  sales  amounted  to 
over  $40,000,000. 

To  our  last  valuation  of  29,821,012  we  may  safely  add  33  1-3  per  cent.  — per- 
il aps  50  per  cent. 

No  less  than  one  hundred  and  nineteen  towns,  with  a  population  of  278,437, 
are  tributary  to,  and  have  their  business-centre  in  Portland,  with  which  no 
other  market  may  interfere.  Yet  more — 

We  have,  it  is  said,  nearly  six  hundred  and  fifty  lakes  within  our  territory, 
and  some  very  large  and  beautiful,  such  as  Moosehead,  Chesumcook,  Umbagog 
and  Sebago,  many  large,  navigable  rivers,  the  Penobscot  and  Kennebec,  from 
200  to  300  miles  in  length,  and  the  Saco  and  the  Androscoggin  traversing  large 
districts,  and  all  emptying  into  the  sea,  along  our  coast. 

We  have  large  hotels,  and  watering-places  without  number,  at  our  very 
doors,  and  among  our  Islands,  for  sea-bathing,  boating  and  fishing,  and  moun- 
tain-houses in  plenty  along  the  White  Mountain  regions. 

Sixty-five  railroad  trains  enter  and  leave  the  city  daily ;  and  we  have  daily 
steamers  to  Boston,  half- weekly  steamers  to  New  York,  weekly  and  half-weekly 
ocean  steamers  for  six  months  of  the  year,  with  lines  touching  at  many  ports 
eastward  along  the  coast  of  Maine  and  the  Maratime  British  Provinces. 

We  have  three  daily  papers  and  thirteen  weeklies,  monthlies  and  quarterlies. 

The  monthly  report  for  Februrary  of  the  Chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Statistics  of 
the  Treasury  Department,  has  just  been  issued.  From  it  we  learn  that  the 
summary  statement  of  the  intransitu  and  trans-shipment  trade  of  the  United 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

States  for  that  month  amounted  to  $6,851,768,  of  which  Portland  furnished 
$5,044,800,  or  about  five-sixths  of  the  entire  sum.  New  York  was  the  second 
port,  furnishing  $955,045,  and  Boston  third  with  $379,872. 

The  aggregate  number  of  vessels  owned  in  this  District  on  the  30th  of  June, 
1874,  as  appears  by  the  official  report  just  made  to  the  Bureau  of  Statistics  by 
the  Collector  at  this  port  is,  392,  with  a  tonnage  of  101,832,69.  Of  these  vessels 
371  are  sail  and  21  steam ;  the  tonnage  of  the  former  is  93,526,40,  and  the  latter 
8,306,29.  The  return  of  seamen  for  these  vessels,  as  reported  in  these  lists, 
shows  an  aggregate  of  737  officers  and  1837  crew,  or  a  total  of  2574. 

The  Maine-Central  railroad  received  and  delivered  at  Farmington,  last  year, 
4,644  tons  of  Portland  freight,  and  3,535  tons  of  Boston  freight.  The  Portland 
freight  was  chiefly  imports  from  Portland. 

Since  the  foregoing  was  written,  a  new  line  of  steamers  between  Portland 
and  New  York,  has  been  established,  to  be  called  the  Cromwell-line,  and  run 
semi-weekly. 

But  enough.  "With  a  population  such  as  we  have,  busy,  active,  industrious, 
enterprizing,  thrifty  and  liberal,  again,  I  ask,  What  have  we  to  fear  ? 

To  be  sure,  we  blossom  with  granite  and  ice;  but  then — our  fruitage  is  gold. 

J.  N. 


10 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


-%?> 


EXCHANGE   STREET 

BEFORE   AND  SINCE  THE  GREAT  FIRE. 


Originally,    and  up  to  about  1815,  we  had   three  principal   thoroughfares, 
run  ning  through  the  city  length-wise  from  one  end  to  the  other.     These  were 


DOWN  EXCHAN( 


iKOKE  THE  GREAT  FIRE  OF  '66. 


then  called  Fore-street,  Middle-street  and  Back-street,  now  Congress,  and  Com- 
mercial.    Cumberland,  Oxford,  Lincoln  and  Portland^streets  have  since  been 


12  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

opened ;  all  but  Commercial  and  Cumberland  stopping  short,  or  diverging  on 
their  way  through. 

These  original  thoroughfares  were  intersected  by  streets  running  across  the 
city,  from  avenue  to  avenue,  and  sometimes  from  shore  to  shore,  that  is,  from 
Fore-street  to  Back-street  and  the  Cove,  with  here  and  there  a  break. 

Fish-street,  now  called  Exchange-street,  and  lately  extended  to  Congress, 
originally  Back-street,  ran  from  the  water-side,  where  all  the  wharves  are 
built,  up  to  Middle-street,  beyond  which  the  spectator  is  now  supposed  to  be 
standing;  and  looking  down  Exchange-street  toward  Fore-street,  where  the  first 
brick  store  was  built,  in  1795,  by  Capt.  N.  Deering. 

All  the  Insurance-offices,  all  the  Banks,  with  two  or  three  exceptions,  and  all 
the  auction-business  of  the  city  were  always  confined  to  Exchange-street — 
the  Wall-street  of  Portland — and  from  the  first,  when  it  was  called  Fish-street, 
it  was  not  only  our  chief  business  mart  for  the  heaviest  transactions,  but  a  prin- 
cipal cross  thoroughfare. 

Most  of  the  buildings  on  both  sides  were  of  common  brick — the  commonest 
indeed — never  more  than  three  stories  high,  with  here  and  there  stone  pilasters 
and  lintels,  after  the  Quincy  syenite  had  brought  stone-fronts  into  fashion  all 
over  the  country,  up  to  the  time  of  the  great  fire ;  unpretending,  moderate  in 
size,  and  never  more  than  twenty-eight  or  thirty  feet  up  to  the  eaves,  with  steep 
shingle  roofs,  and  when  flat,  occasionally  covered  with  tarred  paper  and  gravel 
or  sand,  but  never  slated  nor  tinned,  and  useless  garrets,  barely  enough  to  allow 
play  for  a  hoisting-wheel. 

The  cellars  were  shoal,  dark,  and  very  damp,  without  drainage  and  without 
floors,  and  in  short,  all  of  one  type  and  character,  plain  to  ugliness,  and  with- 
out ornamentation  or  embelishment  of  any  kind. 

On  the  right — before  the  fire — looking  toward  the  water,  may  be  seen  the 
largest  frame  building  to  be  found  in  the  whole  neighborhood,  originally,  the 
mansion  of  our  late  Judge  Widgery,  it  had  been  greatly  enlarged,  about  forty 
years  ago,  and  converted  into  a  vast  furniture  warehouse  and  manufactory,  for 
Walter  Corey,  who  occupied  it  up  to  the  time  of  the  fire,  which  swept  away, 
not  only  this  large,  four-story  building,  but  a  brick-mill,  six  stories  high  in  the 
rear,  and  an  adjoining  warehouse  occupied  for  the  storage  of  seasoned  lumber. 

But  after  the  fire,  and  while  the  ruins  were  still  smoking  and  steaming,  a  new 
spirit  took  sudden  possession  of  our  property-holders,  along  this  beautiful  street, 
and  elsewhere  in  the  neighborhood;  most  of  whom  had  been  waiting  all  their 
lives  for  the  large  business-men  and  bankers,  to  move  first  —  or  at  any  rate,  for 
something  to  happen ;  and  straightway  they  began  building  for  the  future,  so 
that  Portland  is  now,  as  all  may  see  by  comparing  these  two  views,  before  and 
after  the  terrible  visitation,  at  least,  fifty  years  ahead  of  what  she  would  have 
been  otherwise — in  all  probability. 

We  have  now  along  both  sides  of  this  attractive  and  busy  thoroughfare, 
large,  handsome  blocks  and  warehouses,  of  granite,  iron,  Albert-stone,  pressed 
brick  and  common  brick,  three  and  four  stories  high,  with  mansard  roofs,  and 
large  halls  and  chambers,  adapted  to  the  wants  of  a  manufacturing  region. 


PORTLAND    ILLUSTRATED. 


13 


These  buildings  are  all,  upon  the  average,  fifty  or  sixty  feet  to  the  eaves,  well- 
slated  roofs,  large,  dry  and  well-lighted  cellars,  deep  drainage,  and  generally 
water-closers,  sinks  and  Sebago  water;  and  also  —  a  fact  worth  recording — with  a 
reasonable  amount  of  architectural  embelishment,  heavy  cornices,  rich  windows, 
and  pilasters  to  correspond.  Instead  of  being  only  thirty-five  or  forty  feet  in 
depth,  most  of  these  are  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  twenty,  or  even 


DOWN  EXCHANGE  STREET,  FROM  MIDDLE. 

here  and  there,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  depth,  and  they  are  generally 
finished  within,  after  a  superior  style,  with  our  richest  native  woods,  black  and 
yellow  ash,  maple  and  walnut,  oiled  and  varnished.  The  floors  are  laid  with 
southern  pine,  the  cellars  with  heavy  plank  or  cemented,  and  all  are  now 
occupied  for  banking-houses,  brokers'  offices,  insurance-offices,  auction-rooms, 
book-stores,  warehouses  and  manufactories. 

The  ground  floor  is  almost  always  stuccoed,  the  ceilings  frescoed,  with  hand- 
some cornices,  and  the  windows  of  large  plate-glass. 


14  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

But  enough  may  be  seen  at  a  glance,  to  satisfy  all  that  a  wonderful  improve- 
ment in  the  style  of  architecture,  and  in  all  the  ornamentation,  has  taken  place, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  great  additional  conveniences,  the  greater  safety — not  a 
single  wooden  building  is  there  now  on  the  street,  nor  in  the  neighborhood  — 
and  nothing  of  the  widened  streets,  the  park,  the  fire-alarm,  our  admirable  fire- 
department,  and  the  Sebago  water,  which  goes  up  almost  of  itself  to  the  man- 
zard  roofs  and  attics  of  our  highest  buildings. 

MIDDLE   STREET,  BEFORE   THE  FIRE  — RUINS  AFTER  THE  FIRE. 

Before  the  fire,  Middle-street  was  the  principal  avenue  and  thoroughfare. 

Forty-nine  fiftieths  of  the  jobbing  and  retail  business,  and  about  all  of  the 
dry-goods  and  hardware  business,  after  we  began  to  have  importers  and  whole- 
sale dealers  —  that  is  about  1800  —  were  done  along  this  handsome  street. 

Many  of  the  retailers  were  jobbers,  but  we  had  no  importers  until  1805  or  6, 
when  two  or  three  houses  were  opened — or  rather  two  or  three  large  chambers, 
for  they  were  all  in  the  second  story  of  our  low  brick  buildings. 

First,  we  had  G-ordon  and  Lewis,  and  then  Atherton,  Poor  and  Cram,  both 
between  Plum  and  Union-streets,  where  that  large,  handsome,  and  quite  cele- 
brated hotel,  seven  stories  high,  the  Falmouth,  now  stands.  These  were  fol- 
lowed after  a  year  or  two,  by  Tappan  and  Sewall,  whose  chambers  were  in 
Haymarket-Row,  and  soon  after  by  Smith  and  Oxnard,  in  Mussey's-Row. 

By  this  time  the  hardware  dealers  began  to  import  for  themselves,  and  job- 
bing became  a  part  of  almost  every  large  retail  establishment. 

Earlier  than  this  however,  by  two  or  three  years,  McLellan  and  Brown  had 
tried  importation  for  awhile  on  Exchange-street,  where  Bailey  &  Noyes'  very 
large,  handsome  book-store,  now  appears. 

At  this  period  of  our  town's  history,  all  our  brick  stores,  and  they  constituted 
perhaps,  not  more  than  a  fifth  part  of  the  whole,  were  of  the  type  already  des- 
cribed, very  low-studded,  seldom  over  eight  or  nine  feet  on  the  ground  floor, 
dark,  narrow,  and  never  more  than  twenty-eight  or  perhaps  thirty  feet  up  to  the 
eaves,  when  Haymarket-Row  was  built,  by  the  father  of  our  late  annalist,  Wil- 
liam Willis,  and  two  or  three  associates. 

The  piers  were  always  of  brick,  and  to  this  day  are  the  safest — and  the 
ugliest —  we  have  to  rely  upon,  after  all  our  improvements,  in  case  of  fire,  how- 
ever desolating  or  terrible. 

And  it  was  not  until  1820,  or  thereabouts,  that  granite  pillars,  and  stone 
fronts  for  the  lower  story,  as  you  see  them  in  the  plate,  were  introduced. 
From  that  day,  bricks  were  abandoned  for  the  piers  and  pilasters,  and  as  iron  had 
not  come  into  use,  the  style  was  uniform  throughout  our  business-quarters, 
pillars,  lintels,  architraves,  cornices,  caps,  and  sills  being  all  of  a  stone  we 
had  agreed  to  call  granite,  on  the  authority  of  architects,  builders  and  quarry- 
men,  though  most  of  it  was  gneiss,  like  the  Hallowell,  North  Yarmouth  and 
Rockland  yield,  and  much  of  the  remainder,  Quincy  stone  or  syenite,  abounding 
in  feldspar  over-charged  with  alkali,  and  undergoing  rapid  disintegration  with 


PORTLAND    ILLUSTRATED. 


15 


changes  of  weather,  till  it  gets  honey-combed  like  the  Tremont-house,  of  Boston. 

Of  this  material — valued  the  more  for  being  so  dark  that  no  shadows  could 
be  seen  under  the  ornaments  and  projections,  we  had  stores  built, — a  block  on 
Fore-street,  by  Mr.  Joseph  Harrod — and  all  our  store  fronts  for  awhile. 

Then  we  had  a  Custom-House,  built  of  the  Sandy-Bay  or  Gloucester  stone  —  a 
true  granite;  then  a  block  of- stores  on  Middle-street,  from  the  boulders  found 


MIDDLE  STREET,  BEFORE  THE  GREAT  FIRE  OF    '66,   WITH  WOOD'S    MARBLE    HOTEL  AXD 
SECOND  PARISH  CHURCH  IN  THE  FOREGROUND. 

in  Concord,  N.  H.,  then  the  Sheepscot  stone,  a  dark  syenite,  loose  and  friable, 
much  darker  indeed  than  the  Quincy,  and  for  that  reason  still  more  esteemed, 
till  we  began  our  first  Exchange  with  it,  and  built  up  to  the  second  story,  when 
it  was  discovered  that  no  dependence  could  be  placed  upon  the  quarry  for  large 
pillars  and  architraves,  and  the  work  stopped,  until  the  United-States  quarry 
was  opened,  and  Kennebunk  stone  —  a  true  granite  —  was  introduced,  after 


16 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


which  it  was  finished  and  taken  off  our  hands  by  the  general  government,  for  a 
a  Post-Office  and  U.  S.  Court-House. 

From  this  time,  all  our  store  fronts  were  from  the  TJ.  S.  quarry  at  Kenne- 
bunkport,  or  from  a  North-Yarmouth  quarry,  of  which  two  four-storied  houses 
on  State-street  were  built ;  a  rough  stone  cottage  on  Congress,  of  the  Kenne- 
bunkport  quarry,  still  standing  on  Congress-street,  and  a  store  on  Exchange 
street,  of  undressed  ashler,  with  trimmed  edges,  by  the  writer — and  these  were 


RUINS   OF   THE   GREAT   FIRE  —  DOWN   MIDDLE   STREET   FROM    FREE. 

all  the  stone  buildings  we  had,  or  have  to  this  day;  and  then  the  Biddeford  and 
Blue-Hill  quarries  were  opened  with  a  lighter  colored,  but  very  pure  granite, 
which  is  now  received  with  great  favor  in  all  parts  of  our  country. 

How  strange !  Here  had  we  been  importing  this  material  from  New  Hamp- 
shire and  Massachusetts,  when  the  foundations  of  our  whole  neighborhood 
were  granite,  gneiss  and  syenite,  marble  and  talco-slate,  and  we  are  now  fur- 
nishing public  buildings  in  every  part  of  our  country  —  literally  quarrying  Post 
Offices,  Custom-Houses,  Temples,  Churches  and  City-Halls  out  of  these 
neglected  foundations,  and  have  enough  left  along  our  coast  and  among  our 
islands,  to  furnish  with  ease  blocks  enough  for  one  large  city  a  year,  and  never 
miss  the  material  from  our  great  subterranean  treasuries. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


17 


And  so  we  labored  with  all  these  hindrances  in  our  way,  until  after  the  fire, 
when  we  betook  ourselves  to  iron  for  pillars,  arches,  lintels,  caps  and  sills,  with 
here  and  there  a  building,  or  block  of  Albert-stone  from  Nova-Scotia,  like  the 
City-Hall,  the  Falmouth-Hotel,  the  Hopkins-block,  which  you  may  see  on  your 
right,  or  of  marble,  from  Vermont,  such  as  the  new  Post-Office,  one  of  the 
handsomest  public-buildings  to  be  found  anywhere,  and  the  Casco-Bank,  of 
Blue-Hill  granite,  both  in  full  view.  The  stores  along  Middle-street  however, 
are  generally  built  of  pressed-brick,  with  Albert-stone  trimmings,  or  of  common 
brick  saved  from  the  fire  and  covered  with  mastic,  with  iron  caps  and  sills,  iron 
for  the  ground  floor,  and  iron  for  the  ornamentation. 

The  church  seen  beyond  Wood's  Hotel  —  in  the  illustration  of  Middle-street 
before  the  fire  —  was  that  where  Dr.  Payson  used  to  preach,  from  the  beginning 
to  the  end  of  his  remarkable  career. 


THE    FIBE    OF    '66— KUINS    OF    EXCHANGE    ST. 


OUR  NEW  PORTLAND 

OUR  POETS,   PAIXTERS,   &C. 

A  total  stranger  on  approaching  Portland  by  sea,  would  be  likely  to  over-esti- 
mate the  population  by  thousands,  or  perhaps  tens  of  thousands,  for  he  would 
see  about  as  much  of  it  as  he  would  of  New- York,  or  Boston,  or  any  other  large 
city,  approaching  it  by  sea,  and  he  would  be  sure  to  imagine  a  vast  amount  of 
building  far  away  beyond  his  view,  occupying  the  lower  parts  of  the  territory, 
as  in  other  cities. 

Every  pinnacle,  every  dome,  every  spire,  every  tall  roof,  with  a  lantern  or 
cupola,  would  be  a  suggestion  of  something  far  beyond,  whatever  he  might 
fancy  or  see  in  the  foreground. 

Yet,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  he  would  see  about  all  there  is  of  Portland,  so  that 
if  unacquainted  with  our  history,  or  the  census,  he  would  be  not  a  little  aston- 
ished to  find,  that,  instead  of  being  a  city  of  one  or  two  hundred  thousand  in- 
habitants, we  have  at  the  most,  not  over  thirty-five  thousand.  "Not  more  than 
thirty-five  thousand?"  he  \vould  be  likely  to  say,  "with  all  these  churches, 
domes  and  spires,  and  all  these  magnificent  public  edifices,  huge  warehouses, 
massive  blocks,  and  private  dwellings  of  a  size  almost  princely,  and  all  these 
large  gardens."  Nor  would  he  be  likely  to  forego  his  first  impressions,  on  seeing 
our  harbor,  our  dry-docks,  and  the  crowded  shipping  at  our  wharves,  our  mar- 
ginal-way and  our  railroad  system ;  our  eastern  and  western  promenades,  and 
the  Deering-woods,  which,  if  he  were  not  well  acquainted  with  us,  he  would  be 
sure  to  regard  as  a  magnificent  park,  and  a  part  of  our  belongings. 

But  suppose  the  stranger  to  be  traveling  in  search  of  the  sublime  and -pic- 
turesque, the  beautiful  and  the  romantic,  having  heard  of  Maine  and  the  coast 
of  Maine;  of  the  wonders  along  our  Down-East  region,  of  our  islands,  not 
always  three  hundred  and  sixty-five  in  a  group  —  no  less  and  no  more — never 
quite  up  to  the  "thousand  islands  of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  yet  altogether  too  nu- 
merous to  mention. 

And,  now  for  a  change,  let  us  suppose  our  traveler  to  be  somewhat  acquaint- 
ed with  our  history  and  our  doings  in  the  world  of  literature  and  art,  of  our 
authors,  our  landscape-painters,  our  poets,  and  our  sculptors — of  our  celebri- 
ties in  a  word — for  celebrities  we  have,  and  not  a  few  who  are  known  abroad, 
even  better  than  they  are  at  home. 

Of  course  he  would  have  a  thousand  questions  to  ask,  and  of  course  he  must 
be  answered. 

With  a  view  then  to  the  gratification  of  travelers  and  visitors,  having  indi- 
vidual tastes  and  very  different  views,  when  they  light  upon  such  a  community 
as  ours,  we  propose,  instead  of  cataloguing  our  churches,  or  grouping  our  chief 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


19 


public-buildings,  till  the  reader  wearies  of  their  sameness,  or  at  least  of  the 
sameness  that  must  predominate  in  describing  them,  to  intermix  here  and 
there  a  brief  sketch  of  some  author,  some  poet,  or  some  painter  or  sculptor, 
who  has  helped  to  make  Portland  famous,  not  only  at  home,  but  over  sea. 


THE   CITY  HALL. 


This   exceedingly  handsome,  well-proportioned  and  conveniently-arranged 
Government-House,  was  first  built  some  years  before  the  fire,  and  seemed  to 


CITY-HALL. 

our  tax-payers  and  large  property-holders,  altogether  disproportioned  to  our 
wants.  It  was  built  of  the  Nova-Scotia  Albert-stone,  and  pressed-brick  with 
Albert-stone  trimmings;  and  cost  without  the  land,  six  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars. 

It  furnishes  most  desirable  accommodations  for  the  City-government  with  all 
its  offices,  for  all  the  State-courts,  for  the  City  and  County  Treasuries,  for  the 


20  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Public-Library,  for  the  Municipal  and  Probate-Courts,  for  the  Registry  of  Deeds, 
and  for  the  Museum  of  Natural  History,  with  reception-rooms,  and  one  of  the 
largest  and  best  public  halls  in  the  country,  with  twenty-five  hundred  seats. 

But  so  great  a  change  has  taken  place  in  public  opinion,  since  it  has  been  re- 
built and  refurnished,  and  become  so  attractive  and  imposing,  that  the  grum- 
blers have  died  out,  and  all  our  misgivings  are  forgotten,  just  as  it  happened 
years  ago,  when  the  Portland  Exchange  was  got  under  way. 

OUK  POETS  —  HENRY  W.   LONGFELLOW. 

Suppose  we  begin  with  Longfellow.  He  was  born  here ;  and  you  may  see 
the  house,  where  he  first  breathed  what  Shakespeare  breathed,  without  being 
consumed  —  the  atmosphere  of  poetry  —  the  uplifting  atmosphere  of  another 
world. 

It  is  now  an  old-fashioned,  unpretending,  three-story  brick  house,  originally 
two  stories,  until  a  few  years  ago  —  standing  on  Congress-steeet,  between  a 
block  of  stores  and  the  Preble-House,  with  a  darkened  front-yard,  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet  deep  —  no  more; — holding  it  back  from  the  street,  and  over-shadowed 
by  large  trees.  Hence  it  may  be  that  the  Washington-House,  Cambridge,  where 
he  has  now  taken  root,  engaged  his  affections  —  there  being  a  kind  of  resem- 
blance, both  within  and  without,  between  the  two. 

When  Longfellow  first  began  to  dribble  poetry  —  or  verses  rather — he  was  a 
student  of  Bowdoin-College,  and  then  something  else  —  a  professor,  perhaps  — or 
tutor  —  till  he  went  abroad  to  qualify  himself  thoroughly  in  some  of  our  modern 
languages,  which  he  succeeded  in  doing,  till  he  became  an  admirable  linguist ; 
but  little  did  he  think,  perhaps  —  and  most  assuredly  little  did  we  think,  who 
knew  him  best,  that  he  would  ever  become  what  he  undoubtedly  is  at  this  mo- 
ment, one  of  our  best  prose-writers,  and  the  author  of  some  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful poems  in  our  language,  or  in  any  other. 

Gentle,  affectionate  and  loving,  Mr.  Longfellow  is  never  sublime,  never  start- 
ling, nor  often  picturesque;  but  if  we  take  up  "The  Skeleton  in  Armor," — the 
best  of  all  his  poems  —  the  "Psalm  of  Life,"  or  any  one  of  the  shorter  pieces,  he 
is  continually  throwing  off,  we  shall  hear  the  rippling  of  that  inward  power,  so 
strange  and  yet  so  unpretending — and  feel  the  breath  of  that  illuminated 
atmosphere,  which,  when  it  bursts  into  song,  men  have  agreed  to  call  poetry. 
Poor  fellow !  he  has  been  sorely  tried  through  the  whole  of  his  earthly  pilgrim- 
age; but  then,  he  has  gained  what  otherwise  he  might  never  have  hoped  for, 
the  sympathy  and  commiseration  of  thousands  and  tens  of  thousands,  who 
never  knew  why  the  sweet  mournf ulness  they  so  much  love,  and  the  gentleness 
and  tenderness  they  feel  throbbing  in  their  own  hearts,  while  they  read,  became 
his  leading  characteristics. 

His  Dante  is  a  grand  affair,  harmonious,  faithful  and  efficient;  but,  having 
lost  himself  in  the  translation,  the  few  readers  of  Dante  through  translations, 
will  never  do  the  translator  justice,  till  they  dip  into  his  own  sweet,  warbling 
manifestations  of  organic  power. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


THE   POST-OFFICE. 


21 


Here  we  have  another  of  the  public-buildings  which  have  begun  to  give  us  a 
reputation  abroad,  and  our  people  higher  notions  of  architecture. 

It  is  built  of  a  Yermont  marble,  of  a  remarkable  fine,  clear  grain,  at  a  cost  of 
$500,000.  Our  present  post-master,  is  Ex-Judge  Charles  W.  Goddard,  formerly 
Consul  to  Constantinople  —  County  Attorney — then  Judge  of  our  Superior 


POST-OFFICE. 

Court,  a  man  of  remarkable  industry,  perseverance  and  earnestness  in  whatever 
he  undertakes. 

The  ground-floor  is  occupied  for  the  Post-Office,  and  the  whole  second  story 
for  U.  S.  Court-rooms  and  offices. 

Sixty  years  ago,  our  Post-Office  was  in  a  one-story  frame-building,  near  the 
head  of  Exchange-street — or  Fish-street,  as  it  was  then  called. 

Then  "growing  with  our  growth,"  it  migrated  to  a  frame  building  on  Union 
street,  and  then  after  a  fire  or  two,  the  general  government  having  been  pur- 
suaded,  through  the  influence  of  our  townsman  and  zealous  representative,  A. 
W.  H.  Clapp,  Esquire,  to  buy  out  our  interest  in  that  wretched  abortion,  the 


22  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Portland-Exchange,  begun,  but  left  unfinished  in  the  midst  of  our  land-fever; 
and  having  built  it  up  from  the  basement  with  the  Kennebunk  granite,  and  at 
the  cost  mentioned  above,  made  it  one  of  our  handsomest  and  safest  buildings, 
and  converted  it  into  a  Post-Officeand  Custom-House,  with  large,  handsome  U. 
S.  Court-Rooms,,  and  it  so  continued  up  to  the  time  of  a  fire,  which  destroyed 
the  building,  and  with  it  the  Natural-History  Collection.  It  was  then  re-built 
by  the  United  States,  and  stood  till  the  great  fire,  when  it  was  so  terribly  shatter- 
ed that  it  had  to  be  taken  down  and  built  over  anew,  as  you  see  it  now,  and  of  mar- 
ble instead  of  granite  —  neither  of  the  two  being  able  to  withstand  fire,  though 
cubes  of  the  U.  S.  quarry,  from  Kennebunk-port,  a  foot  square,  have  been  heat- 
ed red-hot  in  a  blacksmith's  forge,  thrown  into  the  sea,  at  dead  of  winter,  and 
when  taken  out,  underwent  no  crumbling  nor  disintegration  —  so  at  least  it  was 
said  by  quarry-men  and  stone-cutters,  employed  in  1836,  by  the  writer. 

OCB   SCULPTORS  —  PAUL  AKERS. 

The  first  person,  man  or  woman,  that  ever  tried  to  model  anything  in  the 
shape  of  a  head  here,  was  Paul  Akers,  of  whom  we  all  heard  so  much,  and  ex- 
pected so  much,  up  to  the  time  of  his  early  death. 

Strangely  enough,  although  we  had  begun  to  be  talked  about,  both  at  home 
and  abroad,  for  our  landscapes,  we  never  had  a  portrait-painter  worth  remem- 
bering. The  elder  Cole  used  to  paint  a  good  likeness,  and  the  younger  fol- 
lowed, but  they  were  both  only  clever  and  patient  mechanics,  not  artists. 

And  as  for  sculptors — that  was  a  department  —  a  mystery — altogether  be- 
yond our  reach.  To  be  sure,  Brackett,  now  of  Boston,  had  tried  his  hand  away 
Down-East,  upon  some  of  the  heads  he  was  acquainted  with,  and  then  after  a 
long  while,  upon  the  human  figure,  until  he  produced  the  Drowned  Mother  and 
Babe,  life  size,  and  sent  them  forth  for  exhibition  —  a  beautiful  idea,  and  full 
of  glorious  possibilities,  but  never  tried  in  marble. 

And  now  for  Akers  —  Paul  Akers,  with  whose  doings  and  personal  history,  I 
have  been  familiar  from  the  time  he  first  fell  in  my  way. 

He  was  born  in  our  immediate  neighborhood,  at  Saccarappa,  I  believe,  about 
six  or  eight  miles  from  Portland,  passed  his  earlier  life  in  brick-yards  and 
lumber-mills,  and  occasionally  labored  on  his  father's  little  homestead. 

One  day,  a  brother  lawyer,  from  that  neighborhood,  or  perhaps  from  Saco, 
named  Hayes,  called  on  me  to  ask  if  I  should  have  any  objection  to  see  a  young 
man  of  his  acquaintance,  who  had  been  trying  his  hand  at  a  preparation  for 
sculpture,  by  modeling  in  clay.  Of  course  I  should  be  glad  to  see  the  poor  fel- 
low, having  been  accustomed  to  such  applications  for  many  years,  until  I  could 
enumerate  fifty  or  a  hundred,  perhaps,  to  whom  I  had  foretold  their  destiny ;  no 
one  of  the  whole  having  disappointed  me  at  last.  Among  these  were  authors, 
poets,  painters,  actors,  preachers,  inventors,  &c.,  all  of  whom,  without  a  single 
exception,  having  become  more  or  less  distinguished.  Of  course,  therefore, 
my  opinion  was  thought  worth  having,  and  my  predictions  prophecy.  So  at 
least  Hackett,  and  Charlotte  Cushman  believed,  Sully  and  Chester  Harding, 
Codman  and  Tilton,  Ann  S.  Stephens  and  Elizabeth  Oaksmith,  John  G. 
Whittier,  Mrs.  Sarah  Austin,  and  a  score  of  other  writers  in  prose  and  poetry. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  23 

At  the  end  of  an  hour  the  young  man  appeared,  bringing  with  him  a  life 
size  medallion.  Pale,  quiet,  and  rather  anxious-looking,  the  first  impression 
I  received  was  quite  favorable,  and  so,  after  setting  the  medallion — it  was  a 
head  of  the  Saviour — in  a  good  light,  I  began  questioning  him. 

"Was  it  a  copy  of  anything  he  had  ever  seen,  of  any  head,  painting,  engrav- 
ing, medallion  or  cameo  ? 

"No  —  he  had  never  seen  such  a  head  anywhere.  It  was  altogether  his  own 
idea  of  the  Saviour,"  and  either  then,  or  at  a  subsequent  interview,  he  intimat- 
ed a  reverence  for  the  mysteries  of  Catholicism. 

"Very  well,"  said  I  —  "such  being  the  case,  I  am  not  unwilling  nor  afraid  to 
say,  persevere !  You  have  done  something  quite  remarkable  here ;  and  it  being 
as  you  say,  the  first  head  you  ever  modeled,  even  in  profile,  and  the  expression 
being  so  serious  and  benign,  so  tender  and  thoughtful,  you  deserve  great  praise 
and  warm  encouragement,  and  have  no  time  to  lose.  Come  with  me,  and  I  will 
put  you  in  the  way  of  experimenting  to  advantage ;  and  I  took  him  up  into  a 
large  hall  over  my  office,  and  said,  There  —  I  will  cut  a  hole  through  the  roof, 
and  give  you  a  sky-light  worth  having,  and  you  may  go  to  work  at  once,  and 
we'll  soon  find  something  for  you  to  do  in  the  way  of  busts  —  did  you  ever  try 
your  hand  on  a  bust,  "big  or  little?" 

"Never." 

"Very  well — you  may  begin  with  me,"  and  he  did,  and  the  bust  he  then  made 
is  now  in  my  library.  The  first  experiment  was  a  failure ;  full  of  exaggeration 
and  heroic  ideality.  The  fact  is,  the  man  was  a  poet — a  born  poet — and  so 
he  thought  he  must  serve  me  up,  not  so  much  as  he  saw  me,  but  as  he  would 
like  to  see  me,  and  have  me  go  down  to  posterity. 

The  second  was  much  more  successful,  though  idealized  and  exaggerated, 
both  in  size  and  features.  It  was,  however,  ennobled,  and  on  the  whole,  more 
satisfactory  to  some  of  my  partial  friends  than  it  would  have  been,  if  truer. 

The  fact  is,  that  no  man  is  the  same  under  different  aspects,  and  never  the 
same  to  those  who  know  him  best  and  those  who  know  him  least.  They  who 
have  seen  you  under  strong  excitement,  or  under  the  inspiration  of  some  great 
purpose,  would  never  acknowledge  a  calm  though  faithful  copy.  Hence  carrica- 
ture*and  exaggeration. 

The  great  fault  of  Akers,  up  to  the  last  of  his  rather  short  life,  was  a  de- 
ficiency in  that  which  is  indispensable  for  an  artist,  a  knowledge  of  anatomy, 
and  careful  habits  of  drawing.  But  he  never  learned  to  draw,  and  for  his  life, 
could  not  have  represented  a  hand  in  crayons.  Like  Chester  Harding,  he 
modeled  from  life,  and  the  wonders  he  wrought  are  only  the  more  wonderful 
for  his  ignorance  of  drawing. 

After  a  few  days,  I  happened  up  to  his  room,  where  he  was  laboring  over  the 
mask  of  a  dead  man,  with  a  miserable  photograph  to  help  him  —  one  of  Wash- 
ington Irving's  "inveterate  likenesses,"  and  notwithstanding  the  difficulties, 
which,  had  he  known  more  of  the  art,  would  have  appeared  insurmountable, 
he  succeeded  in  producing  a  very  fair  bust,  and  a  very  good  likeness  of  Mr. 
Bradley,  a  member  of  the  bar  in  his  neighborhood.  Upon  my  expressing  no 


24  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

little  astonishment  that  he  should  have  succeeded  so  well,  under  such  disheart- 
ening circumstances,  he  said  he  knew  Mr.  Bradley  well,  and  remembered  his 
looks  while  he  was  arguing  a  troublesome  case — a  capital  case  perhaps  —  many 
years  before.  And  this  undoubtedly  was  the  truth.  He  had  a  strong  sense  of 
individuality  and  a  capital  memory  of  features,  which  in  his  case  were  so  many 
facts. 

The  next  move  he  made,  took  the  shape  of  an  alto  relievo,  representing  the 
head  of  Charlotte  Coudray,  after  decapitation.  It  is  of  cabinet-size,  and  we 
have  christened  it  anew  at  his  desire,  "Lady  Jane  Grey,"  and  in  good  sooth,  it 
gives  her  character,  mournful,  touching  and  very  gentle,  as  if  he  had  known 
her  personally,  or  had  been  a  witness  of  the  dreadful  catastrophe. 

After  this  he  was  kept  employed  on  busts,  always  good  likenesses,  and  gener- 
ally of  an  elevated  character,  without  being  extravagantly  idealized. 

Then  came  his  "Benjamin," — life  size — the  only  cast  of  which  is  in  the 
possession  of  Ex-Chief-Justice  Shepley. 

The  conception  was  beautiful,  and  the  graceful  bending  of  the  poor  boy  over 
the  discovered  cup,  natural  enough  to  be  almost  captivating,  though  with  the 
sorrow  and  amazement  indicated  in  his  countenance,  we  could  not  help  sympa- 
thizing. 

Soon  after  this,  he  went  abroad,  and  set  to  work  in  Rome,  with  quite  a  num- 
ber of  orders,  but  still,  not  enough  to  satisfy  the  longings  and  aspirations  of  his 
nature;  and  so  he  modeled  the  "Pearl  Diver,"  a  work  of  uncommon  merit  and 
remarkable  beauty,  representing  a  youth  lying  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  lan- 
guid, graceful,  undisturbed,  and  full  of  the  significant  signs  of  blossoming 
adolesence. 

About  this  time,  it  was,  that  he  married  a  young  widow,  since  well-known 
throughout  the  land,  as  Florence  Percy,  a  true  poet,  of 'whom,  though  not  a 
native  of  Portland,  as  it  was  in  Portland  that  she  first  appeared,  I  shall  have 
something  to  say  hereafter. 

After  the  "Pearl  Diver,"  we  heard  nothing  of  Mr.  Akers,  until  the  story  of 
his  last  illness,  and  early  death,  fell  upon  the  hearts  of  those  who  knew  and 
loved  him  here,  like  a  church-yard  dew. 

Had  he  lived  a  few  years  longer,  he  would  have  built  up  a  reputation  for  him- 
self and  his  beloved  country,  well  worth  coveting.  He  had  that  in  him — a  far- 
seeing  and  far-reaching  spirit,  a  lofty,  hallowed  imagination,  and  such  a  solemn 
sense  of  what  man  is  made  for,  that  he  must  have  been  lastingly  distinguished. 

He  has  left  a  younger  brother,  Charles — who  chooses  to  be  called  Karl,  from 
whom  good  portraitures  and  good  busts  may  be  expected,  if  nothing  better  and 
loftier.  Some  of  his  last  are  very  promising,  to  say  the  least  of  them,  and  are 
quite  equal  to  the  earlier  efforts  of  his  gifted  brother. 

THE   CUSTOM-HOUSE. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  buildings  to  be  seen  anywhere,  either  at  home  or 
abroad.  The  material  is  a  very  light-colored  granite,  from  Concord,  N.  H., — 
resembling  the  finest  marble.  It  cost  about  $500,000  and  has  been  thoroughly 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


25 


finished,  and  furnished  within  and  without.  It  is  believed  to  be  fire-proof,  and 
is  enriched  with  bronze  and  marble  stair-ways  and  fire-places,  and  magnificent 
chandeliers,  and  stuccoed  ceilings,  and  our  costliest  native  woods.  Our  present 
collector  is  Ex-Governor  Israel  Washburn,  jr.,  one  of  the  most  energetic  and 
indefatigable  of  all  our  public  servants. 

Our  first  Custom-House  was  a  pine-shed ;  the  next  but  a  little  better,  though 
used  for  a  store-house.  The  next,  a  Doric-Temple,  very  much  after  the  fashion 
of  a  Pierpont-stove,  and  built  of  that  ugliest  of  all  known  material,  the  Sandy- 


CUSTOM-HOUSE. 

Bay  granite ;  then  it  appeared  in  the  handsome,  granite  pile,  with  the  Post- 
Office  on  Middle-street,  up  to  the  time  of  the  fire  in  '66 ;  but  this  which  we  have 
now  rebuilt,  is  really  something  to  boast  of  —  a  commercial  Treasury  and  Palace, 
—  worthy  of  the  sincerest  admiration. 

OUR  ARCHITECTS. 

The  two  Fassets,  Francis  H.,  and  Edward  F. —  father  and  son  —  with  Hard- 
ing, are  all  we  have  to  depend  on  among  our  townsmen,  chiefly,  for  architectu- 
ral embellishment. 

For  a  time,  we  had  Mr.  Alexander,  now  of  New- York,  who  planned  the  villa 
of  John  B.  Brown,  Esquire  —  one  of  the  handsomest  private  buildings  we  have 


26  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

to  boast  of,  and  a  large  number  of  dwelling-houses  and  cottages,  and  store- 
blocks,  which  had  a  marvelous  effect  on  our  taste  and  preferences.  Mr. 
Alexander  was  a  true  artist,  not  a  mere  builder,  and  his  works  testify  to  his 
most  essential  qualifications. 

Since  he  left  us,  we  have  the  two  Fassets,  and  Mr.  Harding,  who  have  done 
much  to  beautify  our  streets,  and  settle  our  notions  upon  this  subject. 

And  here  I  am  reminded  of  a  little  incident,  which  happened  soon  after  my 
return  from  abroad.  Something  had  led  me,  I  know  not  how,  unless  it  was  my 
habit  of  scribbling  so  much  for  the  newspapers,  to  speak  disparagingly  of  our 
largest  public-buildings,  and  churches,  and  of  our  blundering  barbarism. 

And  so,  one  day,  a  builder  —  a  common  house-carpenter,  with  a  good  reputa- 
tion, and  no  knowledge  of  drawing,  who  used  to  intermix  all  the  orders,  and 
misapply  all  the  characteristics  and  embellishments,  called  on  me,  and  the  fol- 
lowing conversation  ensued : 

"Mr.  N. — I  see  that  you  understand  artchitect,"  said  he,  "and  I  want  to  have 
a  little  chat  with  you." 

He  was  rather  a  shrewd,  sensible  man,  but  wholly  ignorant  of  the  art,  being 
at  best,  only  a  good  stair-builder.  He  seemed  astonished  beyond  measure,  when 
I  told  him  that  the  orders  of  architecture  in  every  street,  and  I  might  say  in 
every  building,  public  or  private,  were  all  intermixed,  and  the  first  principles  of 
the  science  violated. 

We  had  the  Mathew  Cobb-House,  the  Commodore  Preble-House,  the  Canal 
Bank  and  the  Cumberland  Bank,  to  be  sure,  some  with  pilasters  and  archi- 
traves, and  others  with  pediments,  designed,  it  was  said,  by  an  Italian,  about 
1808 — and  the  old  Custom-House,  and  High-street  Church,  and  the  old  City 
Hall,  as  so  many  exceptions ;  but  apart  from  these,  nothing  that  would  bear 
commendation.  He  seemed  to  be  satisfied,  at  last,  and  while  he  lived,  I  saw  no 
more  of  his  Egyptian,  Greek,  Roman  and  Gothic  combinations. 

And  now — just  look  about  you,  and  see  if  we  have  not  atoned  in  a  measure 
for  our  sluggishness  and  backwardness  in  a  past  age. 

MARKET-SQUARE. 

Here  stands  our  old  Town-House,  or  City-Hall,  our  theatre,  and  the  United 
States-Hotel,  and  not  a  few  of  our  handsomest  buildings.  But  the  illustration 
will  speak  for  itself. 

There  has  been  a  seeming  determination  lately  manifested  by  our  people,  to 
have  the  old  City-Hall,  or  Town-House,  out  of  the  way,  and  a  handsome  square 
opened  for  the  soldiers'  monument,  now  under  consideration,  and  a  fountain 
worth  having. 

It  cannot  be  denied  that,  on  the  whole,  we  have  no  better  opening  for  such 
an  enterprize,  nor  any  portion  of  the  city  which  could  be  turned  to  a  better  ac- 
count, for  the  purpose  mentioned. 

Surrounded  by  large,  handsome  buildings,  blocks  of  stores,  on  both  sides, 
with  the  greatly  enlarged  United-States  Hotel  in  the  rear,  the  theatre,  the 
Preble-House,  on  one  side,  and  the  First-Parish  Church  and  City-Government 


PORTLAND    ILLUSTRATED. 


27 


House  in  full  view,  no  wonder  that  so  many  of  our  people  are  zealous  and  busy 
on  the  subject.  This  old  City-Hall,  by  the  way,  built  under  the  superintend- 
ence of  our  late  townsman,  Charles  Q.  Clapp,  Esquire,  comes  nearer  a  correct 
sample  of  architecture ;  and  yet  it  is  only  a  sort  of  dwarf  Ionic,  the  pillars  being 
only  six  or  seven  diameters  instead  of  eight  or  nine,  and  the  entablature  alto- 
gether heavy  enough  for  the  Roman  Doric,  of  which  we  had  a  pretty  fair  speci- 
men in  the  Portico  of  our  High-street  Church,  with  which  Mr.  Clapp,  who  had 
a  great  deal  of  relish  for  improvements  of  this  kind,  had  something  to  do,  and 
another  in  our  old  Custom-House  of  the  Sandy-Bay  granite,  already  mentioned, 


WARD'S  OPERA  HOUSE. 


MARKET  SQUARE. 


OLD  CITY  HALL. 


a  Roman  Doric.  With  these  few  exceptions  —  and  one  other  —  our  old  Ionic 
Post-Office  and  Custom-House,  of  the  Kennebunk  granite,  we  had  no  building 
of  any  settled  order  of  architecture,  while  at  the  head  of  one  of  our  principal 
streets,  there  stood  and  still  stands,  a  portico,  intended  for  Ionic,  the  pillars  of 
which  are  from  ten  to  twelve  diameters,  instead  of  being  eight  or  nine,  as  re- 
quired by  the  order. 

But,  such  intermixture  of  orders  we  find  everywhere,  and  there  is  a  water- 
gate  on  the  Thames,  by  Inigo  Jones,  where  you  may  find  three  or  four  distinct 
orders,  one  above  another.  Of  course  the  basement  of  any  building,  triumphal 
arch,  or  gate-way,  would  require  a  heavier  order  than  the  upper  parts ;  but 
then  there  are  limits  to  this. 


28  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

OTJB  LANDSCAPE  PAINTERS  —  CHABLES  CODMAN. 

The  landscape  painters,  born  here,  or  making  their  first  appearance  here, 
have  given  to  Portland  the  highest  reputation. 

The  first — Beckett  —  of  whom  a  few  words  hereafter,  began  to  do  something 
in  Dr.  Coe's  apothecary-shop,  while  yet  an  apprentice,  and,  if  I  am  not  mis- 
taken, several  years  before  Codman  appeared,  as  a  painter  of  signs,  banners 
and  fire-buckets. 

Codman,  however,  may  well  be  regarded  as  the  pioneer  in  this  department  of 
art,  his  pictures  now  commanding  from  five  to  ten  times  the  price  he  ever 
thought  of  asking  in  the  day  of  his  glory. 

Of  him,  therefore,  we  may  well  venture  to  speak  at  large ;  his  manner  being  so 
stamped  with  individuality,  so  natural  and  fresh,  and  so  unlike  that  of  other 
painters,  and  yet  so  truthful,  varied  and  rich,  as  to  set  him,  after  it  was  too 
late,  among  the  finest  landscape-painters  of  the  age. 

But  something  of  the  man's  history  and  personal  appearance  may  not  be  un- 
welcome. Of  his  life  and  labors  before  he  came  to  Portland,  we  know  little  or 
nothing ;  but  that  he  once  lived  in  Roxbury,  or  Dorchester,  Massachusetts,  we 
know  from  a  little  circumstance  mentioned  hereafter. 

But  here,  from  the  painting  of  his  first  picture,  worth  remembering  —  up  to 
the  time  of  his  death,  when  his  reputation  was  established,  at  least  here  and 
throughout  portions  of  New-England,  we — that  is — ourself,  knew  him  well 
and  watched  him  faithfully. 

He  was  a  small  man,  about  five  feet  four,  with  large,  dark  eyes,  a  pleasant 
countenance,  and  great  simplicity  of  manner.  Our  acquaintance  began  in  this 
way: 

Soon  after  I  returned  from  over-sea,  and  my  townsmen  had  given  up  the  idea 
of  mobbing  me,  and  hunting  me  back  to  Baltimore — beautiful  Baltimore  —  I 
happened  to  be  dining  at  the  Elm-Tavern,  kept  by  Mr.  Appleton. 

While  at  the  table,  my  attention  was  attracted  by  the  singular  appearance  of 
what  seemed  to  be  tapestry,  or  wall-painting,  not  fresco,  of  a  new  style.  It 
was  a  forest,  or  rather  the  opening  to  a  forest,  full  of  large  trees  reaching  from 
the  floor  to  the  ceiling,  and  so  admirable,  so  finely  characterized,  that  when  I 
left  the  table  and  examined  them,  I  was  not  a  little  astonished  to  find  that  they 
were  painted  in  oil-colors,  but  with  a  freedom  and  spirit  seldom  found  in  the 
finest  fresco. 

Upon  further  enquiry,  I  was  told  by  the  landlord  that  they  were  painted  by 
— "one  Charles  Codman,  a  sign-painter,  on  Middle-street." 

Being  somewhat  of  an  enthusiast,  and  having  made  up  my  mind  to  stay  in 
Portland,  mob  or  no  mob,  though  I  had  only  come  on  a  visit  to  my  widowed 
mother  and  twin  sister,  I  hurried  down  to  Codman's  work-shop— or  shall  we 
say  studio? — and  found  the  little  man  up  to  his  ears  in  the  trumpery  he  had 
been  collecting  for  many  a  year,  bows  and  arrows  and  stuffed  birds,  and  war- 
clubs,  and  tattered  pictures,  and  curiosities  of  all  kinds. 

I  told  him  what  I  thought  of  his  capital  trees— or  tapestry,  but  he  did  not 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  29 

seem  to  think  much  of  them,  nor  of  me,  nor  it  may  be,  of  my  opinion,  though  I 
soon  cured  him  of  that,  by  engaging  a  picture  to  be  done  after  the  same  off- 
hand, free,  sketchy  style,  without  high  finish  —  or  indeed  any  finish.  I  had 
been  captivated — charmed — by  the  free-handling,  sprightliness,  and  brave 
drawing  of  his  trees,  and  I  wanted  nothing  better  to  begin  with. 

He  undertook  the  job,  and  after  laboring  on  it,  longer,  I  had  reason  to  be- 
lieve, than  he  had  ever  labored  on  a  picture  before,  he  called  me  in,  and  I  felt 
obliged  to  say  at  once  that  I  wouldn't  have  it  for  a  fire-board — he  had  spoiled 
it  by  overdoing  —  completely  spoiled  it,  in  his  anxiety  to  please  a  customer  who 
had  been  familiar  with  galleries  abroad. 

"Put  this  picture  away,"  said  I,  "but  don't  destroy  it.  By  and  by,  after  you 
have  done  what  I  foresee  you  will  do,  it  will  be  worth  studying  afresh." 

That  he  felt  rather  down  in  the  mouth,  I  could  see,  and  so  to  encourage  him 
and  justify  the  opinion  I  had  expressed  of  his  latent  power,  I  ordered  another, 
and  promised,  if  he  would  give  me  a  sketch,  instead  of  a  labored  picture,  I 
would  secure  him  other  orders,  which  by  the  way  I  did,  without  waiting  for 
the  demonstration. 

After  awhile,  he  sent  for  me,  and  I  got  a  picture,  worthy  of  high  praise, 
which  I  have  still  in  my  possession,  and  preserve,  mainly  for  the  purpose  of 
showing  how  and  where  he  first  broke  forth  as  a  landscape-painter. 

"Man  alive,"  said  I —  "how  on  earth  did  you  produce  these  catching  lights  in 
the  foliage?" 

After  some  little  hesitation,  he  answered —  "well,  if  you  must  know,  I  went 
over  all  the  leafing  with  a  pin  ! 

I  laughed,  of  course  —  for  what  else  could  I  do?  The  picture  was  mine — I 
had  engaged  it,  in  my  own  language,  "hit  or  miss,"  and  what  should  interfere 
with  my  laughing? 

"Why,  Codman,"  said  I,  pointing  to  a  passage  entirely  overdone,  "I  should 
think  you  had  been  a  painter  or  tea-trays  of  clock-faces." 

Then  it  was  his  turn  to  laugh.  "Jess  so,"  said  he,  "you've  hit  the  nail  on 
the  head  this  time.  I  served  my  time  with  Willard,  the  clock-maker,  and  used 
to  paint  faces  for  him — clock-faces  —  and  landscapes  on  glass,  and  there  ac- 
quired the  facility  you  think  so  much  of."  From  this  time  he  had  a  much 
better  opinion  of  my  judgment;  and  I  secured  orders  from  the  late  Simon 
Greenleaf,  and  the  late  Thomas  A.  Deblois,  and  some  others  at  once,  and  the 
pictures  he  painted  for  them  are  all  in  existence  now,  I  believe. 

From  this  day,  Codman  kept  busy,  and  having  about  given  up  his  fire-bucket 
business  and  sign-painting,  and  confined  himself  to  banners  and  landscapes, 
old  coins  and  carricatures,  began  to  throw  off  marine-views,  mountain-scenery, 
and  summer-landscapes,  and  "Pleasant-Coves,"  and  "Diamond-Coves,"  by  the 
half-dozen,  being  always  sure  of  a  customer,  and  his  reputation  was  such,  that 
orders  began  to  come  in  from  other  places,  up  to  the  day  of  his  death,  until 
there  are  few  collections,  in  our  city  or  neighborhood  without  a  Codman. 

Since  he  passed  away,  we  have  had  Beckett,  and  Tilton,  and  Brown  —  Harry 


30 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


Brown  —  of  whom  I  shall  have  something  to  say,  and  something  to  the  purpose 
I  hope,  when  the  time  comes,  and  five  or  six  more. 

LINCOLX-PAKK  AND  THE  BISHOP*  S  MANSION. 

Though  young  and  but  a  baby  park  at  the  best,  this  charming  enclosure,  in 
the  very  heart  of  our  town,  and  just  where  the  flames  raged  with  the  most  un- 
controllable fury,  on  account  of  the  wooden  buildings  crowded  together,  for 


LINCOLN  PARK,  WITH  THE  BISHOP'S  MANSION  IN  THE  DISTANCE. 

kindling-wood,  promises  to  be,  with  its  handsome  fountain  and  clean  cut, 
winding  paths  and  beautiful  trees  —  when  they  have  got  more  growth,  one  of 
our  most  alluring  features. 

The  Bishop,  now  away  on  a  visit  to  the  Pope,  whence  he  may  return  perhaps, 
with  a  Cardinal's  hat,  may  well  be  reckoned  among  the  most  amiable,  zealous  and 
persevering  of  all  our  Catholic  clergy,  and  this  fine  building  is  but  one  of  many 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  31 

he  has  managed  to  build  up  in  our  midst,  from  the  contributions  of  his  people. 
He  has  given  us  a  nunnery,  a  school  and  a  large  cathedral,  and  we  had  before, 
a  catholic-church,  with  all  the  appropriate  appendages. 

The  mansion  you  see,  though  built  of  brick,  is  called  the  Bishop's  palace. 
And  why  not  ?  Kensington-Palace,  where  the  Duke  of  Kent  lived  and  Queen 
Victoria  was  born,  is  built  of  brick,  and  of  a  very  inferior  brick. 

OUR  PROSE  WRITERS 

are  numberless,  and,  almost  without  exception,  above  what  may  be  called  the 
average. 

Without  regard  to  merit,  or  chronological  order,  brief  sketches,  outline 
sketches  at  the  most,  will  be  introduced  here  and  there  along  our  way.  For 
many  of  the  items  hereafter  produced,  we  shall  be  indebted  to  that  most  care- 
fully-prepared book,  lately  published  by  Mr.  Joseph  Griffin,  and  entitled  the 
"Press  of  Maine."  A  labor  of  love,  and  the  result  probably  of  great  experi- 
ence as  a  printer,  of  uncommon  patience,  continued  for  many  years,  the  facts 
here  accumulated,  and  judiciously  condensed,  are  just  such  as  no  ordinary  col- 
lector or  mere  book-maker  would  know  how  to  appreciate.  Perhaps  we  may  as 
well  begin  with 

SAMUEL  FREEMAN. 

an  old-fashioned  magistrate  and  judge,  of  the  revolutionary  type,  and  actually 
bearing  a  great  resemblance  to  Washington  himself,  both  in  features  and  bear- 
ing—  courteous,  dignified  and  reserved. 

He  was  the  editor  of  "Smith's  Journal,"  a  treasury  of  household  incidents 
and  historical  facts,  relating  to  Falmouth  and  Portland,  published  in  1821. 

The  Rev.  Thomas  Smith,  who  was  settled  over  the  First-Parish  Church,  of 
Portland,  in  1727,  had  begun  to  keep  this  journal,  in  1719,  and  continued  to 
keep  it  up  to  1788,  though  he  lived  till  1795,  and  died  at  the  age  of  ninety-three. 

The  Rev.  Samuel  Deane,  was  associated  with  Parson  Smith,  1764,  and  after 
his  death  became  the  sole  pastor  until  1809,  when  the  Rev.  Ichabod  Nichols 
was  ordained,  so  that  we  have  what  is  called  "Smith  &  Deane's  Journal,"  to 
strengthen  our  recollections. 

Mr.  Freeman  was  the  author  of  three  valuable  treatises,  the  "Massachusetts 
Town-Officer,"  the  "Clerk's  Assistant,"  and  "Probate  Directory;"  all  works  of 
authority,  and  notwithstanding  the  changes  in  our  law,  hardly  yet  superseded, 
though  out  of  print. 

THE   REV.    ICHABOD    NICHOLS 

may  be  reckoned  among  our  earliest  and  best  writers. 

From  this  amiable  and  most  excellent  man,  we  have  a  volume  on  "Natural 
Theology,"  another  on  "Natural  History  and  Hours  with  the  Evangelists,"  two 
volumes,  four  hundred  pages  each,  with  addresses,  discourses,  &c.,  &c.,  —  all 
works  of  uncommon  worth,  although  eminently  unpretending,  and  unostenta- 
tious, like  their  author. 

No  man  among  us,  certainly  no  preacher,  among  the  many  we  have  had,  and 


32  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

still  have,  with  a  name  to  live,  as  we  trust,  ever  labored  more  dilligently  and 
faithfully  than  this  warm-hearted,  Christian  gentleman  and  accomplished 
scholar — though  a  Unitarian. 

Following  the  work  on  Natural  History,  by  Dr.  Nichols,  though  after  a  long 
interval,  we  had  from 

ISAAC  BAY,   M.   D., 

"Conversations  on  the  Animal  Economy,"  "Lectures  on  Botany,"  both  quite 
remarkable  for  clearness  and  precision  of  language,  and  special  adaptation  to 
the  wants  of  our  school-teachers,  &c. 

"When  Dr.  Ray  first  came  to  Portland,  he  entered  upon  the  practice  of  his 
profession,  but  having  more  leisure  than  he  wanted,  he  began  lecturing  on  bot- 
any, in  the  old  Quaker  Meeting-House,  corner  of  School  and  Federal-streets, 
and  met  with  decided  encouragement,  being  himself  a  sincere  lover  of  the 
science,  and  familiar  with  all  the  kindred  sciences. 

After  the  publication  of  the  two  works  mentioned,  he  left  Portland  for  East- 
port,  where  he  confined  himself  to  his  profession,  until  translated  to  Augusta, 
where  he  took  charge  of  our  Insane- Asylum,  which  he  made  so  famous  that  he 
was  beguiled  into  leaving  us  for  another  and  larger  institution  in  Rhode-Island, 
which  under  his  admirable  management  acquired  the  highest  reputation. 

Meanwhile,  not  having  enough  to  occupy  him  over  sixteen  hours  a  day, 
he  prepared  and  published  his  quiet  work  on  medical  jurisprudence,  which  of 
itself,  were  enough  to  justify  all  that  can  be  said  of  his  unconquerable  spirit  of 
enquiry,  of  his  conscientiousness,  and  manly  independence.  To  the  legal  as  to 
the  medical  profession,  this  work,  lately  passed  through  a  second  and  perhaps 
a  third  edition,  is  of  inestimable  worth.  No  phase  of  insanity  is  over-looked, 
or  left  unsettled,  so  far  as  the  large  experience  which  the  author  in  the  treat- 
ment of  the  insane  had  verified,  or  investigated. 

What  he  may  be  doing  now,  we  are  unable  to  say ;  but  this  much  we  know, 
that  he  cannot  be  idle,  and  that  he  has  within  him,  aspirations  that  cannot  be 
quenched;  and  therefore  it  is,  that  we  shall  be  disappointed  if  we  do  not  find 
his  comparative  leisure  in  Philadelphia,  coined  into  ingots  of  wisdom,  if  not 
of  gold. 

HISTORICAL  INCIDENTS  —  WELL  WORTH  MENTIONING. 

In  1658,  Massachusetts,  our  mother-in-law,  took  it  into  her  head  to  insist  on 
exclusive  jurisdiction  over  about  forty  thousand  acres  of  the  Gorges'  grant,  in- 
cluding Portland,  Cape-Elizabeth,  Westbrook  and  Falmouth,  and  setting  her 
seal  upon  the  tract,  christened  Lhe  whole  Falmouth. 

In  August,  1676 — the  whole  territory  was  laid  waste  by  the  Indians,  and  all 
the  inhabitants  either  butchered  or  "captivated,"  as  our  forefathers  called  the 
capturing  of  their  adversaries. 

And  again  in  1689,  after  the  villages  had  begun  to  re-appear  and  flourish  anew, 
and  the  population  had  greatly  increased,  another  Indian  war  broke  out,  and 

ain  Falmouth  was  ravaged  with  fire  and  sword ;  thirteen  of  her  foremost  men 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  33 

fell  into  an  ambush  of  Indians  and  French,  on  Munjoy's  Hill,  and  were  hewed 
to  pieces  like  Agag  before  Samuel,  and  the  settlement  was  broken  up  anew. 

And  just  here  too,  was  perpetrated  one  of  the  acts  of  that  dreadful  tragedy,  of 
which  we  have  a  faithful  record  by  that  old-fashioned  pilgrim,  Cotton  Mather,  in 
his  account  of  the  "Salem  Witchcraft." 

In  1679,  the  Kev.  George  Burroughs,  a  graduate  of  Harvard-College,  came 
here  to  live,  and  was  a  settled  preacher,  and  a  meeting-house  was  built  for  him, 
on  the  point  where  the  Portland  Company's  works  are  now  established. 

After  a  while,  though  evidently  "acceptable"  to  his  parish,  Mr.  Burroughs 
went  back  to  Salem,  and  there  in  process  of  time,  was  convicted  of  witchcraft 
and  hung ;  the  testimony  against  him  being  first,  that  he  held  out  a  heavy 
musket — King's  arms  probably — at  arm's  length,  with  his  middle  finger  in  the 
barrel,  if  I  do  not  mistake;  and  secondly,  that  he  was  supposed  to  have  deal- 
ings with  a  black-man,  and  once  appeared  suddenly  where  he  was  wholly 
unexpected,  among  people  who  had  gone  into  the  woods  before  him ;  after 
berries,  perhaps.  And  so,  the  poor  fellow  was  put  to  death,  according  to  law. 

In  1813,  a  sea-fight  took  place  between  the  Boxer,  a  British  sloop-of-war, 
fourteen  guns,  and  our  Enterprize,  another  sloop-of-war,  almost  within  sight 
of  our  people.  Both  of  the  commanders,  Blythe  and  Burroughs,  were  killed, 
and  lay  side  by  side  in  the  same  dark,  low  cabin — where  I  saw  them.  The 
colors  of  the  Boxer  had  been  nailed  to  the  mast,  so  that  when  the  battle  was 
over,  she  could  not  strike  her  ensign,  and  suffered  accordingly.  We  lost  one 
man  killed  and  thirteen  wounded,  of  whom  three  died.  The  British  had  four- 
teen wounded,  but  how  many  killed  was  never  known,  though  her  decks  were 
swept,  from  her  bow  aft,  over  and  over  again,  and  she  was  hulled  several  times 
with  eighteen-pound  shot,  by  one  of  which  her  gallant  commander,  Blythe, 
was  literally  cut  in  two. 

But  one  of  the  most  remarkable  events  in  our  home  history,  was  the  re-cap- 
ture of  our  Revenue-Cutter,  the  Caleb  Cushing.  This  was  in  1863. 

Capt.  C.  W.  Reade,  of  the  Rebel  bark,  Tacony,  entered  Portland  harbor  at 
midnight,  in  a  fishing-schooner,  and  cut  out  the  Caleb  Cushing.  - 

As  soon  as  she  was  missed  from  her  anchorage,  almost  under  the  guns  of 
Fort  Gorges  and  Fort  Preble  —  a  daring  and  most  hazardous  enterprize,  it  must 
be  acknowledged — our  whole  population  took  fire,  and  no  time  was  lost  in 
obtaining  thirty  men  from  Fort  Preble,  and  over  a  hundred  volunteers,  with 
pilots,  gunners  and  naval  officers,  and  plenty  of  ammunition,  who  went  on  board 
the  New  York  steamer  Chesapeake,  and  started  for  the  daring  pirate.  She  was 
found  becalmed  near  the  Green-islands.  But  Captain  Reade  was  unwilling  to 
await  the  issue,  and  so,  after  a  slight  hesitation,  he  set  fire  to  the  Caleb  Cush- 
ing, and  took  to  his  boats,  and  after  a  few  minutes,  the  fire  reached  her 
magazine,  and  she  blew  up  with  a  tremendous  explosion,  almost  within  rifle 
shot  of  our  whole  population.  Her  crew,  twenty-three  in  all,  were  pursued, 
captured,  and  lodged  in  Fort  Preble. 

To  our  Mayor,  Captain  Jacob  McLellan,  and  Jedediah  Jewett,  our  Collector 
at  the  time,  belongs  the  credit  of  this  clever,  dangerous,  and  almost  fool- 

3 


34  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

hardy  enterprize,  since  a  single  broadside,  or  a  single  heavy  shot,  might  have 
sent  the  Chesapeake  to  the  bottom,  or  swept  her  decks  of  nobody  knows  how 
many  fathers  of  families,  wholly  inexperienced,  and  wholly  unprepared  for 
such  a  catastrophe.  Nevertheless,  it  must  be  acknowledged,  that  the  under- 
taking was  quite  of  a  piece  with  some  of  our  doings  in  the  harbor  of  Tripoli, 
where  Somers  and  Wadsworth  offered  themselves  up  for  the  rescue  of  the  Phil- 
adelphia, by  fire ;  and  so  it  seems  to  have  been  thought  by  the  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury,  who  complimented  the  leaders  of  this  achievment,  for  their  spirit  and 
gallantry. 

MECHANICS'  HALL. 

This  very  handsome  and  classical  building,  at  the  corner  of  Congress  and 
Casco-streets,  Avell  deserves  the  highest  commendation.  The  front  is  of  a  fine- 
grained, smoothly-chiselled,  light-colored  granite,  the  sides  of  pressed-brick.  It 
cost  ninety  thousand  dollars,  and  was  built  in  185(5. 

Its  position  on  Congress-street,  our  widest  thoroughfare,  just  where  it  cannot 
be  overlooked  nor  passed  by,  without  engaging  the  attention  of  a  stranger,  was 
exceedingly  well-chosen,  and  may  be  regarded  as  a  standing  certificate  of 
talent,  taste  and  foresight  in  our  mechanics,  who  have  made  great  advances 
within  the  last  fifteen  or  twenty  years. 

It  contains  a  large  and  very  pleasant  lecture-room,  where  a  great  variety  of 
unobjectionable  entertainments  are  always  under  way. 

It  has  a  library  of  more  than  four  thousand  volumes,  carefully  selected,  and 
in  every  way  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  mechanics'  association,  which  came 
together  at  first,  and  is  now  perpetuated,  for  charitable  purposes  toward  the 
craft. 

The  architectural  embellishments,  though  modest  and  unpretending,  and  the 
whole  appearance  of  the  building,  both  within  and  without,  testify  in  unmis- 
takable terms  to  the  substantial  and  predominant  characteristics  of  our  builders 
and  artisans,  whether  as  masons,  plasterers,  carpenters,  stone-cutters,  or 
finishers.  To  say  all  in  a  word,  there  are  few  stich  buildings  to  be  found 
anywhere,  devoted  to  the  brotherhood  of  mechanics,  and  the  wholesome  effect 
of  that  undertaking  on  our  workmen,  from  the  lowest  to  the  highest,  has  been 
acknowledged  more  and  more  every  year,  by  our  large  property-holders,  and 
leading  business-men,  from  the  day  it  was  finished. 

Of  this  institution,  L.  F.  Pingree  is  President,  and  Geo.  C.  Littlefield,  Vice- 
president,  both  earnest,  active,  conscientious  men,  faithful  alike  to  their 
associates  and  to  the  public  at  large. 

OTJK   CLERGY. 

That  Portland  has  been  greatly  favored  in  her  spiritual  teachers,  from  the 
days  of  her  earliest  history,  cannot  be  denied. 

Always  honest  and  zealous,  and  sometimes  greatly  distinguished,  her  clergy 
have  always  upheld  the  reputation  of  our  community  and  our  commonwealth. 


PORTLAND    ILLUSTRATED. 


35 


Up  from  the  day  of  Mr.  Burroughs,  the  wizard,  to  those  of  Mr.  Smith,  Mr. 
Kellogg  (father  of  the  author),  Dr.  Payson,  Dr.  Nichols,  Dr.  Dwight,  Dr.  Vail, 
Dr.  Taylor,  Dr.  Shailer,  Dr.  Carruthers,  Mr.  Hayden,  Mr.  Stebbins,  Mr.  Streeter, 


36  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Mr.  Bowles,  Mr.  Whitman,  Mr.  Kidgway,  Mr.  Frothingham,  Mr.  Burgess,  Dr. 
Chickering,  Bishop  Bacon  and  Bishop  Neely,  and  half  a  hundred  more,  Port- 
land has  never  been  without  a  strong  and  hearty  representation  of  all  the 
different  denominations  that  abound  here. 

Of  the  whole,  perhaps,  no  one  has  been  more  readily,  or  more  lastingly 
known,  wherever  Knox,  Calvin,  or  Jonathan  Edwards  bear  sway,  or  where- 
ever  they  have  been  regarded  as  types  of  Christian  charity,  than  Dr.  Edward 
Payson. 

That  he  was  a  great  and  good  man,  though  it  must  now  be  acknowledged, 
rather  intolerant,  will  not  be  denied,  since,  long  after  shutting  his  pew- 
door  in  the  face  of  a  universalist  preacher,  because  he  saw  the  ''blood  of  souls 
on  his  garments,"  he  underwent  a  material  change  in  his  manner  of  speech,  if 
not  in  his  opinion.  Great  good  was  accomplished  by  his  ministry,  and  though 
much  bitterness  prevailed,  and  a  lamentable  controversy  raged  for  a  long  while 
between  the  worshippers  of  Dr.  Payson  and  the  believers  in  Dr.  Nichols  and 
Mr.  Kellogg,  that  bitterness  died  out  in  progress  of  time,  and  the  circumstances 
which  led  to  the  controversy  have  been  forgiven,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped,  for- 
gotten by  all  parties. 

Dr.  Carruthers,  one  of  our  ablest  theologians  and  preachers,  now  occupies  the 
desk  of  what  many  regarded  as  the  translated  church  of  Dr.  Payson  —  called 
the  "Payson  Memorial  Church,"  on  Congress-street;  and  they  who  are  inclined 
to  believe  in  at  least,  a  modified  form  of  Apostolic  succession,  will  not  be  sup- 
posed to  question  the  legitimacy  of  the  title,  whereby  the  Dr.  is  claimed  to 
represent,  not  only  Dr.  Payson' s  church,  but  Dr.  Payson  himself. 

Before  Dr.  Camithers,  we  had  Dr.  Vail  and  Dr.  Tyler,  to  feed  the  fires,  not 
of  persecution,  but  of  a  faithful,  zealous  and  patient  ministering  in  the  holy 
office,  with  a  growing  charity  toward  all  men,  while  contending  foot  to  foot, 
and  inch  by  inch,  with  what  they  believed  to  be  heresy  and  error.  In  a  word, 
we  have  reason  to  be  thankful,  and  perhaps  proud,  if  pride  may  be  thought 
wholesome  or  allowable  in  such  a  case,  for  the  favor  these  men  have  met  with, 
in  the  discharge  of  their  duties.  God's  ambassadors  they  all  are,  or  claim  to 
be,  and  all  have  been  largely  prospered  and  greatly  enriched  with  "seals  of 
their  ministry,"  and  "crowns  of  rejoicing." 

OVR   NEWSPAPERS   AXD   PERIODICALS. 

We  have  been  greatly  favored  for  the  last  thirty  or  forty  years  in  all  that 
belongs  to  our  newspapers  and  periodicals. 

Both  editors  and  sub-editors,  both  coadjutors  and  locals,  have  been,  with  two 
or  three  exceptions,  far  above  the  average.  Most  of  them  are,  and  have  been 
for  long  years,  well  educated,  conscientious,  liberal-minded,  cautious  men,  and 
not  a  few  had  been  lawyers  in  regular  practice,  before  they  undertook  the  busi- 
ness of  editorship.  In  a  word,  take  them  together,  if  we  had  a  population  of  a 
hundred  thousand  or  so,  we  might  well  afford  to  keep  what  we  have,  and  only 
add  to  their  numbers,  instead  of  changing. 


PORTLAND    ILLUSTRATED. 


ItEFORM-SCUOOL. 


37 


This  liberal  institution,  now  under  the  guardianship  of  Mr.  Eben  Wentworth, 
principal,  has  not  been  many  years  in  operation,  but  long  enough  to  satisfy  our 
people  that  indeed,  and  in  truth,  it  deserves  all  that  has  been  said  in  its  favor ; 
fulfilling  our  highest  expectations,  and  saving  in  society  hundreds  of  youth, 
who,  but  for  this  home,  and  the  home-discipline  they  are  subjected  to,  might- 
have  become  and  would  have  probably  become,  the  scourge  of  our  neighbor- 
hood, or  tenants  of  our  State-Prison. 

The  building  itself,  as  you  see  it,  is  something  of  the  Elizabeth  style,  substan- 


BEFOR3I  SCHOOL. 

tial,  convenient,  and  picturesque,  without  being  obtrusive  or  showy.  The 
grounds  are  extensive  and  well-managed,  and  their  productiveness,  under 
the  judicious  labor  of  the  boys,  quite  encouraging  and  satisfactory. 

It  stands  about  two  miles  in  a  direct  line,  from  the  heart  of  our  city,  and  may 
be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  attractive  features  of  the  landscape  —  or  pano- 
rama—  that  spreads  from  horizon  to  horizon,  with  the  White-Mountains  and 
the  open-sea  in  full  view,  and  numberless  farms  and  small  villages  clustering 
along  toward  the  North  and  Wesi;,  while  Cape-Elizabeth,  Ligonia,  Ferry-Vil- 


FOE TLAND    ILL  USTRA TED. 

lage,  Knightville,  Turner's  Island,  the  Rolling-Mills,  the  Gas-Works,  and  some 
of  our  largest  Railways  lie  within  a  half  cannon-shot. 

OUR    POETS  —  X.    P.    WILLIS. 

One  of  our  most  beautiful  prose-writers,  beyond  all  question,  graceful, 
sprightly  and  captivating,  especially  to  the  newspaper-world,  but  after  all,  more 
distinguished  for  his  poetical  contributions  to  our  periodical  literature. 

Never  a  good  story-toller,  in  print,  and  often  running  into  extravagances,  where, 
venturing  largely,  and  most  anxious  to  satisfy  our  expectations,  he  may  be 
reckoned  among  the  very  best  of  our  periodical  contributors  and  essayists.  For 
example  —  in  one  of  his  stories,  purporting  to  be  seasoned  with  personal  adven- 
tures, he  hides  the  hero,  or  at  least,  one  of  the  characters,  in  the  long  grass  of 
some  river-side,  stark-naked,  while  certain  ladies  are  wandering  and  chatting 
a  little  way  off,  and  along  the  opposite  bank. 

At  another  time,  and  in  another  story,  he  rigs  out  his  hero  in  the  dress  of  a 
chamber-maid,  and  actually  employs  him  in  the  service  of  two  traveling  ladies, 
who,  it  seems,  were  well  known,  and  who.  of  course,  were  furiously  indignant. 

But  after  all,  these  are  but  trifles,  and  only  go  to  show  that,  however  charm- 
ing he  might  be  as  a  letter-writer,  and  newspaper-gossip,  he  was  not  the  man 
for  a  lengthened  story,  with  plot,  character  and  incidents. 

Though  born  here,  it  is  not  known  that  he  ever  tried  his  hand  at  poetry — or 
prose — until  long  after  his  father,  Nathaniel  Willis,  removed  to  Boston,  and  he 
himself,  had  entered  Yale  College,  where  he  wrote  some  of  his  very  best  poems, 
and  the  beautiful  illustrations  of  Scripture,  with  which  the  religious  world  are 
so  familiar. 

My  knowledge  of  Mr.  Willis  and  our  acquaintance,  which  continued  many 
years,  began  in  this  way. 

While  in  charge  of  the  Yankee,  about  182S.  my  attention  was  attracted  day 
after  day,  by  flashes  of  uncommon  significance  and  beauty,  in  some  Boston 
papers.  Seldom  longer  than  a  dozen  lines  or  so,  the  verses  I  saw  were  always 
delicate,  original  and  peculiar. 

Upon  enquiry,  after  having  said  my  say  about  them  in  the  Yankee.  I  learned 
from  the  author  himself,  that  his  name  was  Willis — but  Willis  of  where? 
Willis  of  what  family?  Xobody  could  tell  me,  and  nobody  seemed  to  know. 

After  awhile,  we  met  in  Boston,  and  he  opened  up  to  me  a  plan  he  had  of 
going  abroad,  and  working  his  passage  through  half  Europe,  on  foot. 

Not  being  acquainted  with  any  but  his  native  language,  I  advised  him  to  get 
familiar  Avith  at  least,  one  other,  French,  before  he  ventured  among  people 
whom  he  could  not  understand,  and  who  could  not  understand  him,  under  any 
emergency;  urging  that,  otherwise,  he  would  have  to  associate  with  his  own 
countrymen,  or  with  some  other  English-speaking  travelers,  and  that,  after  all, 
he  was  about  entering  upon  a  system  of  exchange,  or  barter,  where  the  more  he 
took  with  him,  the  more  he  would  bring  back. 

Soon  after  this,  instead  of  going  abroad,  he  entered  upon  a  literary  life, 
conducting  first  a  Souvenir,  and  then  a  Monthly,  at  Boston,  which  he  made 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  39 

sufficiently  attractive,  though  it  was  far  from  being  profitable,  either  to  the 
proprietors  or  to  himself. 

His  next  move  was  toward  the  New- York  Mirror,  with  which  he  was  after- 
ward connected,  and  of  which,  after  a  change  of  title,  he  became  co-editor, 
with  Morris. 

And  here  began  that  career,  which  has  made  him  quite  famous.  He  was  first 
sent  on  a  trip  along  our  North-western  frontier,  by  General  Morris,  with  only 
fifty  dollars  in  his  pocket,  furnished  by  Morris,  on  trial.  Then,  after  a  time, 
and  his  letters  came  to  be  generally  copied  throughout  the  land,  he  went  abroad, 
where  his  acquaintance  with  Miss  Porter,  Lady  Blessington — and  Captain 
Marryatt — made  him  specially  notorious,  both  over  sea  and  at  home. 

Then  came  a  volume  of  spirited  sketches,  with  a  large  correspondence,  and 
then  he  returned  a  married  man,  having  secured  a  beautiful  English  girl,  and 
settled  down  to  his  work  with  Morris,  on  the  Mirror. 

From  this  time,  up  to  the  day  of  his  untimely  death,  he  occupied  a  position, 
which  nobody  thought  of  questioning.  The  Home-Journal  became  a  leading 
authority  on  all  questions  of  social  interest,  of  etiquette  and  fashionable  life, 
and  so  continues  to  this  day. 

Meanwhile  he  brought  forth  his  best  prose  writings,  and  two  or  three  volumes 
of  poetry — lost  his  English  wife,  and  re-married  to  a  second  lovely  and  most 
attractive  woman — a  neice  of  the  Hon.  Moses  Grinnell. 

While  abroad,  Mr.  Willis  had  for  a  traveling  companion,  Brantz  Mayer,  of 
Baltimore,  and  they  were  so  much  alike  in  stature,  personal  appearance,  and 
general  bearing,  that  they  were  supposed  to  be  brothers — at  least,  both  being 
full  six  feet,  well-proportioned,  with  brown  hair,  large,  handsome  eyes,  and 
the  best  of  manners — though  Willis,  between  ourselves,  was  rather  more  of  a 
coxcomb  than  Mayer;  both  being  high-bred  and  gentlemanly,  but  Willis  having 
a  touch  of  daintiness  and  fastidiousness,  on  most  occasions,  and  sometimes  a 
kind  of  superciliousness,  rather  cockneyish,  so  that  after  his  return  from 
England,  he  would  answer  your  questions  with  a  sort  of  drawling  intonation, 
and  offer  his  oldest  friends  a  finger  to  shake — in  a  word,  he  was  for  showing 
off  all  that  he  had  learned  of  Lady  Blessington's  associates,  and  of  their  lordling 
manners. 

But  nevertheless,  it  cannot  be  denied  that  Mr.  N.  P.  Willis  was  one  of  onr 
best  writers,  both  in  prose  and  poetry,  and  taken  "by  and  large,"  a  man  for 
his  brethren  and  his  country  to  be  proud  of. 

SAKAII  PAYSON   AVILLIS. 

Better  known  all  over  our  country,  and  elsewhere,  as  Fanny  Fern.  She  was 
a  sister  of  N.  P.  Willis,  and  barn  here  about  1811.  Her  father  was  Nathaniel 
Willis,  who,  after  establishing  the  Eastern  Argus,  a  capital  paper  from  the  iirst, 
began  to  bave  his  misgivings  and  forebodings  under  the  earnest  and  faithful 
expostulations  of  Dr.  Payson,  and  tried,  but  in  vain,  to  change  the  Argus  into  a 
religious  paper,  leaving  the  great  Democratic  party  without  a  leader.  This 


40  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

would  never  do.     The  Democrats  and  Federalists — or  Republicans  and  Fed- 
eralists—  were  battling  for  life,  like  men  overboard,  after  a  shipwreck. 

And  so  Mr.  Willis  left  Portland  forever,  went  to  Boston,  and  there  estab- 
lished the  first  religious  paper  in  our  country.  This  was  in  1816. 

Fanny  Fern's  first  book,  "Fern  Leaves,"  appeared  in  1853,  and  had  a  sale  of 
ninety  thousand  copies,  according  to  Mr.  Griffin. 

Her  next  volume,  entitled  Little  Ferns  for  Fanny's  Little  Friends,  was 
published  in  1853,  and  had  a  very  large  sale. 

In  May,  1854,  the  second  series  of  Fern  Leaves  appeared,  and  then  Ruth 
Hall  and  Rose  Clark  —  after  which,  up  to  her  death,  in  1872,  she  was  a  regular 
contributor  to  the  New- York  Ledger. 

Sprightly,  sarcastic,  playful,  and  quite  unlike  all  other  writers  in  our  lan- 
guage, she  held  von  her  way  to  the  last,  with  an  ever-growing  reputation, 
altogether  equal  to  that  of  her  brother,  and  more  captivating,  with  more 
originality  and  more  archness,  mingled  with  a  larger  share  of  downright  com- 
mon sense. 

oru  MUSICIANS. 

Our  people  have  always  had  a  strong  relish  for  music,  but  no  performers, 
until  within  the  last  thirty  or  forty  years. 

Never  without  one  or  more  good  vocalists,  like  John  or  Jack  Woodman,  as  he 
was  called,  of  the  Old,  or  First  Parish,  we  were  always  looking  out  for  some- 
thing better,  and  for  genuine  co-operation. 

At  last,  we  have  begun  to  to  get  up  associations,  and  have  persevered  until 
the  following  are  firmly  established,  and  the  musical  taste  and  aptitude  of  our 
people  are  no  longer  questioned  as  to  what  we  are.  We  have  oratorios,  operas, 
concerts,  attractive  church-choirs,  glee-clubs,  &c.,  &c.,  all  the  year  round. 

We  have  the  "Haydn  Association,"  with  Herman  Kotzschmar,  a  highly 
gifted  and  thoroughly  educated  artist,  for  conductor;  the  "Rossini  Club,"  an 
association  of  women — ladies  if  you  wish  —  thirty-five  in  number,  who  have 
regular  meetings  at  Rossini  Hall,  in  the  City-Building;  the  "Krcut/.er  Club," 
W.  H.  Dennett,  conductor,  a  fine  musician,  a  capital  teacher,  and  a  real  enthu- 
siast, having  been  thoroughly  trained  in  Italy.  The  "Arion  Club,"  another 
association  of  thirty-seven,  all  men,  who  are  specially  given  to  choruses  from 
the  German;  Samuel  Thurston,  conductor,  whose  rich  voice  and  feeling 
intonations  are  not  likely  to  be  forgotten  or  undervalued  in  this  generation  ;  the 
"Portland  Band,"  J.  Cole,  conductor,  another  enthusiast  in  his  way,  and  well 
qualified  for  the  sitution  he  fills,  and  the  "Musical  Club,"  newly  organized, 
and  made  up  altogether  of  young  women,  so  that  on  the  whole,  Portland  would 
seem  to  be  doing  her  part  in  establishing  a  musical  reputation  for  this  part  of 
our  country.  And  then  we  have  Chandler's  Band,  conducted  by  Chandler 
himself,  an.  association  of  singular  merit,  and  thoroughly  trained. 

Nor  must  we  forget  our  young  townsman,  Paine,  whose  Oratorio  of  St. 
Peter,  the  first  and  only  Oratorio  ever  produced  in  America,  has  received  such 
universal  commendation.  Not  having  heard  it,  nor  seen  the  score,  we  have  to 
depend  upon  others  for  the  opinion  expressed. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


41 


And  then,  there  is  Miss  Carey,  not  a  native  of  Portland,  to  be  sure,  but  of 
the  immediate  neighborhood,  since  notwithstanding  her  long  absence  in  Italy, 
she  continues  to  identify  herself  with  our  finest  musical  celebrities. 

And  just  now,  while  engaged  upon  this  paragraph  relating  to  music  and  to  our 
musical  achievements,  my  attention  has  been  attracted  by  a  published  letter  from 
quite  a  number  of  our  Portland  leaders  in  society,  to  Mr.  Will  H.  Stockbridge, 
a  Portland  boy,  now  in  London,  urging  him  to  accept  a  complimentary  concert, 
on  his  return  to  us.  Of  him  too,  we  have  high  expectations. 

IT.    S.   MAKIXE  HOSPITAL. 

The  grounds  upon  which  this  beautiful  building  stands,  cost  fifteen  thousand 
dollars,  but  how  much  the  building  itself  may  have  cost,  cannot  be  ascertained 


TJ.  S.  MABI>*E  HOSPITAL. 

without  application  to  head-quarters  at  Washington.  It  was  undertaken  about 
twenty  years  ago,  and  successive  appropriations  have  been  made  from  time  to 
time,  until  its  final  completion,  as  it  now  stands. 

Beyond  all  question,  it  is  one  of  the  best  proportioned,  and  most  beautiful  of 
our  public  buildings;  and  occupying  as  it  does  a  conspicuous  elevation,  over- 
looking our  whole  city,  and  Casco-Bay,  with  the  islands  for  which  we  are  so 
celebrated,  and  the  open  sea,  along  the  whole  sweep  of  the  horizon. 


42  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

OUR    SCULPTORS — FRAXKLIX    SIMMOXDS. 

This  young  man,  already  so  widely  known  and  so  highly  appreciated,  was 
born  but  the  other  day  at  Auburn,  a  village  about  thirty  miles  from  Portland, 
if  I  do  not  mistake. 

Of  his  early  life  I  know  little  or  nothing,  and  as  the  man  himself  is  a  long 
way  off,  at  Rome,  Italy,  we  must  confine  ourselves  to  what  we  personally  know 
of  him  until  we  meet  again. 

My  first  acquaintance  with  young  Simmonds  occurred  about  1860,  and  greatly 
resembled,  in  many  particulars,  my  first  meeting  with  Akers. 

One  day,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Bosworth,  one  of  our  ablest  and  best  men,  called  on 
me,  and  asked  my  company  to  visit  a  young  friend  of  his,  who  had  taken  to 
modelling  in  clay,  and  seemed  bewitched  with  the  charms  of  sculpture. 

On  arriving  at  his  room,  we  found  one  bust,  and  one  only,  under-way.  Not 
having  seen  the  original,  I  could  not  of  course  judge  of  the  resemblance;  but 
so  stamped  with  individuality,  and  so  strongly  indicated  were  all  the  features 
and  characteristics  of  somebody,  that  I  felt  sure,  and  said  as  much,  absolutely 
sure  of  the  likeness. 

I  saw  that  the  artist  had  experience  in  drawing,  and  was  evidently  favored 
by  nature  in  that  department ;  but  his  drawing  was  hard  and  obtrusive — and 
the  head  a  sort  of  clay  photograph,  without  a  line  or  feature  out  of  place,  or 
exaggerated  or  diminished.  For  a  first  essay  in  portraiture,  as  I  understood  it, 
he  had  been  quite  successful ;  but  then  there  were  faults  to  be  corrected,  and 
propensities  to  be  overcome,  and  I  told  him  what  they  were,  according  to  my 
notions. 

In  the  first  place,  the  lines  were  more  like  those  of  an  engraver,  with  a  rigid 
material — they  wanted  softness  and  generalizing.  In  the  next  place,  the  hair, 
that  most  difficult  of  all  things  to  represent  in  marble,  where  it  cannot  be 
massed,  but  requires  to  be  lightened  and  loosened,  was  curled  and  twisted  like 
so  much  molasses-candy. 

He  bore  my  criticisms  like  a  Christian — a  Christian  martyr,  I  might  say — and 
lost  no  time  in  changing  what  he  acknowledged  to  be  amiss,  though  I  cautioned 
him  against  any  change  of  style  that  his  own  deliberate  connections  did  not 
encourage  and  justify. 

"You  must  depend  altogether  upon  yourself,"  said  I — "altogether.  Take 
what  hints  you  may  from  others,  or  what  suggestions,  but  only  so  far  as  they 
correspond  with  your  individual  convictions.  You  are  to  answer — .and  only 
you — to  yourself,  and  to  the  world,  for  your  ultimate  conclusious,  whoever  may 
counsel  or  approve,  or  disapprove.  In  other  words,  if  you  are  ever  to  be  any- 
body, you  must  be  yourself,  and  not  another.  Admire  as  you  may,  and  rever- 
ence as  you  may,  the  counsellors  of  large  experience  who  beset  your  path. 
Hear  them  patiently,  treat  them  well,  by  listening,  and  then  do  your  best  ac- 
cording to  your  own  perceptions;  and  after  awhile,  what  there  is  in  you  will 
manifest  itself,  and  you  will  have  your  reward,"  &c.,  &c. 
After  this,  he  labored  on  busts  for  a  long  while  —  among  others  upon  one  of 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  43 

myself  now  in  the  Portland-Institute  and  Public-Library  —  and  it  cannot  be  de- 
nied that  he  rapidly  improved  and  grow  into  a  habit  of  generalization,  much  to 
be  desired  in  portraiture,  if  one  would  not  photograph  his  finest  faces. 

And  then  he  got  married,  and  visited  Italy,  with  several  orders,  to  encourage 
him,  and  there,  by  himself,  and  for  the  first  time,  ventured  upon  full  lengths, 
portraitures  and  allegorical  figures  and  statuary. 

The  first  of  his  achievements  which  indicated  the  out-flow  of  his  native  pow- 
ers, ripened  and  strengthened  by  severe  study  and  great  enthusiasm,  was  an  ideal 
statue  of  Roger  Williams,  for  the  city  of  Providence  —  an  admirable  embodiment 
of  the  Puritan  character,  and  in  every  way  remarkable  for  simplicity,  strength 
and  naturalness,  without  parade,  or  flourish,  or  pretention. 

The  next,  was  a  remarkably  fine  subject  and  the  conception  was  worthy  of  the 
subject.  It  was  the  Mother  of  Moses  with  a  child  in  her  lap,  life-size.  The  atti- 
tude, the  sweet  mournful  expression  of  that  Hebrew  face,  the  drapery  and  all 
the  accompanying  appendages  are  of  such  a  character,  so  decidedly  original,  so 
charged  with  deep-seated,  unappeasable  sorrow,  that,  if  he  should  never  do  any- 
thing more,  it  would  fix  the  reputation  of  Simmonds  forever,  as  a  poet  and 
sculptor. 

Meanwhile,  he  turned  off  a  number  of  busts,  which,  if  they  are  equal  to  one  of 
Story,  the  sculptor,  must  be  more  than  satisfying  to  the  originals  and  their  friends. 

And  now  we  find  him  busy  on  Soldiers'  Monuments,  one  for  Providence,  and 
another  for  Portland  — which  last  is  a  very  fine,  spirited  composition,  although 
he  proposes  to  furnish  another  at  his  leisure. 

Meanwhile,  having  lost  his  wife  in  Italy,  he  has  returned  to  Rome,  and  will 
there  abide  until  the  orders  already  under  way  are  accomplished  to  his  satisfac- 
tion. A  bust  of  the  Hon.  John  B.  Brown,  which  he  completed  just  before  his 
late  return  to  Italy,  is  very  fine  and  very  just. 

But  happen  what  may,  this  young  man  has  already  done  enough  to  show  that 
he  belongs  in  the  foremost  rank  of  sculptors,  living  or  dead. 

OUR   MEDICAL   ASSOCIATIONS. 

About  all  the  medical  systems  now  recognized,  except  the  Thompsonian,  or 
screw-auger  system,  with  its  lob  -!i  i  f •>:•  every  ailmant,  like  the  blue-pills  of 
Ab:Tii"t!iy,  and  the  yellow  mustard-seed  of  the  school  that  appeared — and  dis- 
appeared—  about  18L;:]  —  are  represented  here. 

We  have  the  Allopathic,  the  Homeopathic,  the  Eclectic,  the  hydropathic  and 
the  vegetarian,  all  under  way,  and  the  two  first-mentioned  occupying  a  bound- 
!••-<  field,  very  jealous  of  each  other,  very  uncharitable,  but  always  in  full  blast. 

So  far  is  the  antipathy  carried,  that  the  Homeopathic*,  who  count  among 
their  brethren  some  of  the  ablest,  best-educated,  and  clearest-headed  men 
among  us,  many  of  the  foremost  having  been  Allopaths  of  large  practice,  until 
their  convictions  and  experience  obliged  them  to  go  through  a  second  course  of 
experiments  in  homeopathy  —  so  far  is  this  antipathy  carried  —  that  they  are 
excluded  from  the  Cumberland  Medical-Association,  the  members  of  which 
forbidden  to  associate  with  them  in  practice,  to  hold  consultations  with 


44  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

them ;  and  they  are  not  even  allowed  to  intermeddle  with  the  management  of 
the  Maine  General-Hospital,  nor  to  have  so  much  as  a  ward  assigned  them, 
though  many  homeopathists  are  among  the  liberal  contributors  to  this  enter- 
prize. 

And  this,  while  the  Allopaths,  following  the  Homeopaths,  have  about  given 
up  their  bleeding,  purging,  blistering  and  emetics,  and  diminished  their  princi- 
pal medicines  almost  infinitesimally. 

Nevertheless  —  and  notwithstanding  this  much  to  be  lamented  jealousy,  we 
have  reason  to  be  proud  of  our  medical  men  as  a  body ;  our  surgeons  are  distin- 
guished, our  physicians  of  acknowledged  skill  and  worth,  and  even  our  surgeon- 
dentists,  as  they  have  begun  to  be  called,  are  distinguished,  and  deservedly  so ; 
for  we  have  some  of  the  best  now  living. 

Of  our  "Cumberland  County  Medical  Society,"  Dr.  Thomas  A.  Foster  is 
President,  Dr.  Charles  O.  Files,  Secretary,  and  Dr.  H.  N.  Small,  Treasurer  — 
all  of  Portland. 

Of  our  "Maine  Medical  Association,"  Dr.  A.  P.  Snow,  of  Winthrop,  is  Presi- 
dent, Dr.  Charles  O.  Hunt,  of  Portland,  Secretary. 

OUR  PORTLAND   DISPENSARY, 

seems  to  be  misistering  most  efficiently  to  the  wants  of  the  poor.  The  officers 
and  physicians  receive  no  pay.  Medicines  and  medical  attendance  are  furnished 
gratuitiously. 

Dr.  N.  A.  Hersom,  F.  A.  Stanley,  and  C.  O.  Files,  are  the  attending  physi- 
cians, and  Drs.  I.  T.  Dana  and  S.  H.  Weeks,  consulting  physicians. 

BOARD   OF  TRADE. 

Never  was  a  more  timely,  never  a  more  effectual  organization,  than  that  of 
our  leading  business-men,  out  of  which  issued  the  "Board  of  Trade." 

Already  it  has  brought  us  acquainted  with  ourselves,  and  sent  our  representa- 
tives, East,  West,  North  and  South,  for  consultation  with  all  the  business- 
centers  of  our  country.  And  the  result  is  just  what  we  hoped  for,  but  even  the 
most  sanguine  hardly  expected,  till  years  had  gone  by. 

Of  this  admirable  Institution,  T.  C.  Hersey,  is  President,  A.  K.  Shurtleff, 
Israel  Washburn,  jr.,  (our  Collector  and  late  Governor),  and  H.  I.  Libby,  Vice- 
Presidents,  with  a  board  of  Directors,  who  would  be  a  credit  to  any  commercial 
metropolis.  Connected  with  this,  we  have  the 

MERCHANTS'  EXCHANGE. 

The  nucleus  of  what  we  shall  have,  and  must  have,  by-and-by,  so  that  our 
active  business-men,  our  lawyers,  merchants  and  shippers,  will  have  a  place  to 
go  to,  in  all  weathers,  for  bargaining  and  consultation. 

Of  this  organization,  the  Directors  are  A.  K.  Shurtleff,  Chas.  H.  Milliken, 
Wm.  W.  Thomas,  H.  M.  Payson,  and  M.  N.  Eich — all  substantial  men  of  large 
and  varied  experience,  who  may  be  depended  upon  to  carry  out  the  enterprize 
they  have  in  contemplation,  as  soon  as  they  are  allowed  to  get  their  breath,  after 


46  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

the  pressure  of  last  September,  when  the  whole  country  seemed  struck  with 
paralysis  for  a  time,  but  is  now  steadily  recovering.  Such  periodical  attacks 
are  always  to  be  expected  in  the  business-world — but  they  are  never  lasting. 
The  tide  ebbs  and  flows. 

MAIXE   GEXERAL-IIOSPITAL. 

This  institution,  one  of  many,  ofsvhich  some  account  will  be  found  in  this 
little  book,  established  in  love  to  that  small  part  of  the  great  human  family  of 
sufferers,  in  whom  we  have  a  special  interest,  occupies  what  were  known  as  the 
"Arsenal-Grounds,"  on  BramhalPs  Hill,  of  two  and  a-half  acres. 

More  than  fifty  thousand  dollars  have  been  raised  by  private  subscription 
among  ourselves  in  the  city,  while  the  State  has  contributed  twenty  thousand 
dollars,  conditionally,  together  with  these  "Arsenal-Grounds."  These  conditions 
having  been  more  than  fulfilled,  the  buildings  are  now,  so  near  completion  as  to 
make  it  sure  that,  before  long,  we  shall  have  a  magnificent  charity  in  full  opera- 
tion to  be  thankful  for. 

Hon.  John  B.  Drown,  President,  Hon.  J.  T.  McCobb,  Treasurer,  and  F.  H. 
Gerrish,  Esquire,  Secretary. 

The  central-building  is  five  stories  with  a  mansard-roof;  and  there  are,  as  you 
see,  four  pavillions,  with  an  amphitheatre,  a  boiler-house  and  kitchen. 

From  every  window  there  is  a  wide,  rich  and  beautiful  prospect  of  the  whole 
surrounding  country;  and  from  every  part,  either  a  view  of  the  sea  and  the 
Cove,  or  a  view  of  the  White-Mountains,  of  Xew-Hampshire,  sixty  miles  a  way, 
with  all  the  intervening  villages  and  elevations,  woods  and  waters,  and  being 
always  open  to  the  sea-breezes  on  one  side,  and  to  the  winnowed  atmosphere  of 
our  .Switzerland,  upon  the  other,  a  store-house  of  health  and  vitality,  the  sick  and 
languishing,  may  be  sure  of  nature's  best  and  surest  help  at  all  seasons. 

OUR  ROLLING-}! ILLS. 

This  large  and  flourishing  establishment,  is  situated  on  the  Cape  Elizabeth  side 
of  Vaughan's  bridge,  accessible  by  Fore-river,  and  connected  with  the  railways  of 
the  city  by  a  bridge.  In  1872,  they  turned  out  fourteen  thousand  tons  of  rails, 
and  in  1873,  fourteen  thousand,  seven  hundred  and  forty-four  tons,  and  employed 
two  hundred  men.  Francis  McDonald,  President,  Geo.  E.  B.  Jackson,  Treasurer. 

THE    FOREST-CITY    SI  (;AK-i:i:KJXKI!Y. 

This  building,  arranged  for  the  manufacture  of  crushed,  powdered  and  granulated 
sugars,  which  have  a  high  character  in  all  our  markets,  is  two  hundred  and 
seventy-five  feet  long  by  fifty  feet  wide,  and  five  stories  high,  with  a  superficial 
area  therefore  of  sixty-eight  thousand,  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  H.  I. 
Libby,  President,  T.  C.  Hersey,  Treasurer  and  Business-Manager. 

OL'B   SAFE   DEPOSIT-VAULTS, 

may  well  be  regarded  with  admiration.  Uniting  all  improvements  up  to  this 
hour,  it  is  beyond  all  question,  absolutely  fire  and  burgular-proof,  with  watch- 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


47 


men  and  all  other  arrangrnents  to  secure  depositors,  and  a  pleasant  room,  at  97 
Exchange-street. 

OUB  DBY-DOCK. 

This  company  incorporated  in  1868,  has  two  fine  docks,  on  the  plan  of  Simp- 
son's patent.  The  larger  is  four  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  long,  and  one 
hundred  feet  wide,  with  a  superficial  area  therefore  of  forty-two  thousand,  four 
hundred  square  feet,  while  the  depth  of  water  on  the  gate-sill,  at  ordinary  high 
tide,  is  twenty-three  feet,  the  largest  draught  of  all  the  dry-docks  in  our  country. 


QBY-DOCK. 

It  will  probably  accommodate  anything  afloat,  under  the  tonnage  or  draught  of  the 
Great  Eastern. 

.  The  smaller  is  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  long  by  eighty  feet  wide, 
having  a  superficial  area  of  fourteen  thousand  feet,  with  a  depth  of  twelve  feet  on 
the  gate-sill,  at  ordinary  high  tide.  The  company  hold  twenty-five  acres  of  land 
fronting  the  harbor  on  the  Cape  Elizabeth  side. 

OUB  LAWYERS  —  THE   CUMBEULAKD-BAR  ASSOCIATION". 

For  the  last  fifty  or  sixty  years,  the  Portland-Bar  has  been  greatly  distin. 
guished. 

From  the  days  of  Stephen  \V.  Longfellow,  father  of  the  poet;  Prentice  Mellen, 
father  of  Grenville,  another  poet,  Daniel  Davis,  Nicholas  Emery,  Ezekiel 
Whitman,  Simon  Greenleaf,  Charles  S.  Davie,  William  Pitt  Preble,  our  judges 
from  the  Cumberland  Bar,  and  our  lawyers  left  in  practice,  have  stood  high  for 
legal  attainments  and  liberal  practice.  Nor  have  they  fallen  off  to  this  day,  the 
older  members  bearing  aloft  the  un-smirched  banner  of  their  earlier  predecessors, 
and  the  younger,  standing  in  their  stirups,  with  lance  in  rest,  and  eye  on  the 
opening  future. 


48  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Of  this  association,  the  Hon.  Joseph  Howard,  late  a  judge,  of  our  Superior- 
Court,  is  President,  and  Xathan  Webb,  Esquire  (U.  S.  District  Attorney), 
Vice-President,  Thomas  McGiven,  Secretary  and  Treasurer. 

OF  THE  GREENLEAF  LAW-LIBRARY, 

Judge  Howard  is  also  President,  and  Byron  D.  Verrill,  Clerk  and  Treasurer.  Of 
its  two  thousand  five  hundred  volumes,  one  thousand  two  hundred  and 
sixty-nine  were  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Simon  Greenleaf,  whose  husband,  one  of 
the  foremost  lawyers  of  his  day,  was  for  many  long  years  a  leading  member  of 
the  Cumberland-Bar,  residing  in  Portland,  from  about  1814,  until  he  took  the 
chair  in  Harvard-College,  as  Royal  Professor,  where  he  continued  up  to  the 
time  of  his  death. 

GRAND   ARMY  OF  THE  REPUBLIC, 

Is  made  up  of  the  honorably  discharged  soldiers  and  sailors  of  the  United- 
States,  army  and  navy.  The  members  aggregate  over  half  a  million. 

Post  Boswoth,  No,  2,  whose  head-quarters  are  at  Mechanics* -Hall,  has  been, 
it  is  said,  "of  essential  service  in  carrying  out  the  objects  of  the  order  in  our 
midst."  We  can  readily  believe  this,  for  the  members  are  tried  men,  whole- 
hearted men,  and  they  know  what  help  means,  and  what  charity  means,  for 
the  widow  and  the  fatherless,  who  have  the  strongest  hold  upon  their  country ; 
God  prosper  them ! 

H.  P.  Ingalls,  Commander,  Caleb  X.  Lang,  Senior  Vice  Commander,  Chas. 
A.  Robinson,  Junior  Vice  Commander,  Xahum  A.  Hersom.  Surgeon,  George 
W.  Bicknell,  Chaplain. 

And  then  we  have  in  addition  to  all  these  charities  — 

THE  PORTLAND  ARMY  AND  NAVY  UNION, 

organized  in  1866.  Head-quarters  corner  of  Congress  and  Brown-streets. 
A.  W.  Bradbury,  President,  William  E.  Dennison,  John  O.  Rice,  Geo.  E. 
Brown,  Vice-Presidents,  Thomas  J.  Little,  Treasurer. 

A  large  military  library  and  reading-room  is  connected  with  the  head-quar- 
ters, and  as  they  are  in  the  habit  of  raising  funds  by  lectures  and  concerts, 
eminently  successful  thus  far,  there  is  good  reason  to  hope  for  a  large  charitable 
fund  for  the  helpless  and  the  needy  in  due  time.  They  have  done  much 
hitherto,  but  will  do  more  of  course,  hereafter. 

OUR  PROSE-WRITERS  —  REV.  DR.   CHICKERING. 

Pastor  of  the  High-street  church  for  some  twenty  years,  and  now  general 
agent  for  the  Xational  Temperance  League,  wrote  and  published  while  here,  The 
Hill-side-Church,  a  series  of  essays  for  young  men,  a  sermon  before  the  Maine 
Missionary  Society,  in  1846,  a  Temperance  Address,  in  1854,  a  tract,  "What  is  it 
to  believe  in  Christ,"  and  sundry  funeral  discourses  —  all  eminently  character- 
istic of  the  man  himself,  hearty,  earnest,  solemn  and  appreciative  —  in  short,  the 
every  day  preaching  of  a  good  man,  thoroughly  convinced,  and  therefore  thor- 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


49 


oughly  convincing,  both  in  the  pulpit  and  out.  No  man  ever  labored  more 
faithfully,  and  few  have  been  more  successful  in  the  ministry,  and  we  may 
hope  that  he  has  not  wholly  thrown  aside  the  pen,  while  engaged  in  what  he 
and  others  may  regard  as  a  higher  duty. 

NATHANIEL  DEERING. 

When  Mr.  Deering  first  chipped  the  shell,  he  was  the  acknowledged  humorist 
of  Portland;  being  full  of  pleasantry  and  playfulness,  and  never  sarcastic, 
never  malicious  nor  spiteful,  as  wits  are  always  inclined  to  be. 

Mr.  Deering  published  Carabasset,  a  play,  in  1830,  embodying  and  verifying 


LOOKING  DOWN  MIDDLE  STREET,  FROM  MARKET  SQUARE. 

certain  traditions  of  our  early  predecessors,  the  red-men  of  our  Northern 
wilderness. 

Also,  Bozzaris,  a  tragedy  of  considerable  merit. 

And  lots  of  ballads  and  verses,  which  have  heretofore  appeared  only  in  the 
newspapers,  but  well  deserve  to  be  collected. 

His  early  prose-writings,  though  but  occasional,  were  very  pleasant  reading, 
and  greatly  enjoyed  by  his  contemporaries,  forty  or  fifty  years  ago. 

DOWN   MIDDLE-STREET  FROM   MARKET-SQUARE. 

On  casting  your  eye  over  this  plate,  you  will  observe  in  the  left  a  lin- 


50 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


gering  specimen  of  the  style  our  stores  —  even  the  handsomest  and  best  — 
were  built  in  before  the  fire.  The  first  in  the  left-hand  block  survived  the  fire. 
Beyond  this  there  is  a  succession  of  larger  and  much  higher  warehouses,  some 
of  brick,  some  covered  with  mastic,  and  some  of  the  Nova-Scotia  Albert-stone, 
some  of  Connecticut  free-stone,  as  far  along  Middle-street  as  the  eye  can  sweep. 

And  now  if  we  turn  our  attention  to  the  right,  we  shall  see  first  another  low- 
studded  memento  of  the  fire,  and  then  a  block  of  high,  four-story  warehouses, 
built  within  a  few  years,  with  here  and  there  one  of  less  attractiveness,  running 
down  to  Union-street. 

And  then  comes  the  Falmouth-House,  built  by  J.  B.  Brown,  our  wealthiest, 
and  upon  the  whole  perhaps  most  enterprising  of  all  our  business-men,  and 
we  have  scores  Avho  would  be  the  life  of  any  place  worth  living  in. 

The  Falmouth  is  six  stories  high,  the  front  of  Albert-stone,  the  sides  of 
pressed-brick,  occupying  a  whole  square,  at  the  corner  of  Union  and  Middle- 
streets,  with  two  hundred  and  forty  rooms,  a  long  row  of  stores  underneath, 
elevator  and  all  that  the  most  exacting  and  fastidious  would  require,  whether 
journeying  for  business  or  pleasure. 

Beyond  this  magnificient  pile  comes  the  St.  Julian,  another  four-storied 
hotel,  of  large  and  justifiable  pretensions,  occupying  the  ground  of  another 
block — or  row  of  stores,  rather  above  the  average  before  the  fire,  and  running 
away  down  Plum-street. 

OUR    EDITORS  —  JAMES    BROOKS,    PHIXEAS    BAKXES,    WM.     PITT    FESSEXDEX, 
OURSELF,    &C.,   &C.,    &C. 

One  day,  in  the  year  1827  or  8,  while  I  was  not  only  editing,  but  actually 
writing  upon  the  average,  nine-tenths  of  the  Yankee,  a  young  man  entered  my 
office  —  a  law-office  by  the  way,  where  I  wrote  my  books,  and  earned  on  —  that's 
the  very  phrase  needed  here — carried  on  the  Yankee,  and  gave  lessons  in  small- 
sword and  boxing,  the  sabre-exercise  and  cut  and  thrust  —  and  signified  a  wish 
to  enter  with  me  as  a  student.  He  was  fresh  from  Waterville-College,  and  pro- 
posed to  take  a  school  and  study  law  at  the  same  time.  He  was  tall,  with  a 
dark,  foreign  look,  large  eyes,  and  a  shy,  though  gentlemanly  bearing,  and  not 
much  over  twenty,  I  should  say.  This  was  James  Brooks. 

I  consented,  and  he  began  with  me  at  once,  and  I  must  say,  studied  with 
uncommon  diligence,  though  with  no  such  steadfast,  passionate  enthusiasm,  as 
a  great  lawyer  must  have  had,  to  begin  with. 

He  soon  became  exceedingly  popular,  was  wheedled  into  politics,  and  became 
a  red-hot  whig,  with  abolition  proclivities,  of  the  most  unspairing  and  unrelent- 
ing type.  At  best,  though  opposed  to  slavery,  as  it  was  not,  I  was  only  a 
colonizationist,  and  heartily  opposed  to  the  Garisonian  creed,  universal  and 
immediate  emancipation.  Here  Brooks  and  I  parted  company  for  life. 

He  was  soon  provided  with  a  school,  and  lived  with  me  while  going  through 
his  law  studies,  much  like  a  younger  brother,  so  that  I  had  the  best  opportun- 
ites  for  understanding  his  real  character.  I  found  him  earnest,  manly,  but  so 
silent,  so  given  to  mystery  and  concealment,  that  his  best  friends  knew  nothing 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  51 

of  his  past  life  or  history,  until  a  sister  appeared  among  us,  and  a  younger  brother 
Erastus,  now  carrying  on  the  Express,  at  New  York ;  nor  even  then  were  we  — 
his  best  friends  —  who  were  laboring  for  him  night  and  day,  permitted  to  know 
anything  about  his  family,  though  his  father  was  a  sea-captain  here,  and  he 
himself,  a  native-born  Portlander. 

One  day  on  opening  my  letter-box,  I  found  a  well-written  communication 
for  the  Yankee  —  well- written,  according  to  Blair  and  Allison,  and  the  Soph- 
omores of  our  day,  but  altogether  too  classical,  too  highly  finished,  for  every- 
day use,  and  I  told  him  so,  on  discovering  as  I  soon  did,  that  he  was  the  author. 

Whereupon  he  underwent  a  striking  and  immediate  change,  and  began,  like 
his  prototype  —  ourself — to  talk  on  paper.  This  saved  him,  for  after  reading  a 
few  paragraphs — no  essays — no  speeches,  he  was  offered  a  position,  that  of 
editor,  from  the  first,  I  should  say,  of  the  Portland  Advertiser ;  and  as  I  now 
find,  in  consequence  of  my  personal  solicitation  —  according  to  Mr.  Griffin. 

Being  ambitious  and  enterprizing,  with  a  burning  desire  to  distinguish  him- 
self in  some  new  way,  he  persuaded  the  proprietors  to  send  him  to  Washington, 
as  a  correspondent  and  reporter — a  reporter  though — not  of  speeches,  but  of 
incidents  and  facts,  with  characteristic  illustrations.  He  was  the  first  Wash- 
ington correspondent  ever  heard  of.  The  letters  he  wrote  while  so  acting,  had 
a  wonderful  run  through  all  the  newspapers  of  our  county,  worth  mentioning, 
excepting  those  of  the  other  parish.  "You  see  we  are  all  in  tears,"  said  a 
pewholder  to  a  man  setting  a  little  way  off;  "why  don't  we  see  tears  in  your 
eyes?"  "O,  Belong  to  another  parish,"  said  the  man.  Just  so,  is  it  ever  in 
high  political  or  religious  excitement,  we  all  belong  to  another  parish,  when 
called  upon  to  give  judgment  upon  the  doings  of  one,  who,  not  agreeing  with 
ourself,  is  therefore  heterodox. 

The  next  movement  of  Mr.  Brooks  toward  notoriety,  was  in  the  character  of 
a  special  correspondent  of  the  Advertiser  from  over  sea,  whither  he  went  in 
1835,  and  it  must  be  acknowledged,  added  greatly  to  his  reputation,  as  a  news- 
paper correspondent,  quick  to  see,  and  quick  to  delineate  such  peculiarites,  and 
characteristics,  as  he  gathered  on  his  long  tramp,  afoot  and  alone,  while  work- 
ing his  passage  through  a  small  portion  of  Europe. 

Then,  after  laboring  from  1836  to  1841  without  effect,  to  obtain  a  seat  in  our 
National  Congress,  he  left  Portland  for  New  York,  where  meanwhile,  the 
Express  had  been  triumphantly  launched,  as  a  penny  paper,  the  first  that  ever 
appeared  on  this  side  of  the  water. 

Not  long  after  this,  he  married  a  neice  of  President  Harrison  —  a  very  supe- 
rior woman,  a  widow  with  one  child  and  quite  a  large  plantation;  after  which, 
he  changed  his  views  about  slavery,  then  got  into  Congress,  and  at  last — poor 
fellow — undertaking  a  trip  round  the  world,  which  cost  him  his  life  at  the  time 
of  the  Credit- Mobilier  scandal. 

And  here  a  little  incident  occurs  to  my  recollection,  which  may  not  be 
wholly  out  of  place,  though  intended  only  for  illustration  of  character.  Not 
long  after  the  earliest  issue  of  the  Express,  a  series  of  Yankee  papers  appeared 
in  it,  something  after  the  manner  and  style  of  Capt.  Jack  Downing.  These 


52  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

were  writen  by  Mrs.  Ann  S.  Stephens — or  most  of  them,  at  any  rate,  appearing 
tinder  the  name  of  Samuel  Slick — if  I  remember  aright,  and  altogether 
superior  to  Judge  Halliburton' s  blundering  carricatures  of  the  Native  Yankee, 
with  its  provincial  and  stage-English.  These  were  attributed  to  Mr.  Brooks, 
and  the  name  of  Mrs.  Stephens  was  never  mentioned  in  connection  with  them, 
to  my  knowledge. 

One  day,  being  at  a  dinner  given  by  Col.  Webb,  of  the  Courier  and  Enquirer, 
at  Delmonico's,  where  Mr.  Verplanck  and  some  other  notables  were  gathered 
together,  about  1834 — a  toast  was  offered  to  the  author  of  the  Sleigh-ride,  a 
funny  affair,  which  had  appeared  in  the  Yankee  long  before.  All  eyes  were 
turned  upon  me,  and  I  found  myself  obliged  to  say  something  in  self-defence.  To 
be  sure,  I  had  written  a  story  under  that  very  title,  which  was  published  in  the 
octavo  edition  of  the  translated  Yankee ;  but  I  soon  found  they  were  talking 
about  quite  another  affair.  It  was  Johnny  Beadle's  Courtship.  "O,"  said 
somebody  at  my  elbow,  "that  was  written  by  Brooks" — and  I  found  that  he  had 
the  credit  of  all  our  best  Yankee  stories,  not  a  line  of  which  he  had  ever  written, 
to  my  knowledge. 

The  fact  was  that  "Johnny  Beadle's  Courtship"  was  written  by  Capt. 
McClintock,  of  Fort-Preble.  At  the  time,  when  I  found  it  in  my  letter-box,  and 
had  run  my  eye  over  it,  I  gave  a  young  portrait-painter,  named  Appleton, 
then  occupying  my  back-office,  credit  for  the  story — and  he  assented — and 
then  I  published  it  in  the  Yankee,  with  lots  of  emendations,  and  in  my  judg- 
ment then  and  now — of  improvements,  with  considerable  additions.  All  this, 
Captain  McClintock,  a  most  worthy  gentleman,  long  afterward  complained,  and 
threatened  to  re-publish  the  story,  as  it  was  originally  written — but  never  did ;  so 
that  Johnny  Beadle's  Courtship  stands  now  as  it  first  appeared  in  the  Yankee. 
So  much  for  newspaper-reputation,  and  so  much  for  Mr.  James  Brooks,  a  martyr 
to  disappointed  ambition,  a  craving  for  political  power,  and  a  thirst  for  the  for- 
bidden fruit  our  tallest  men  are  always  reaching  for,  hit  or  miss. 

To  Mr.  Brooks,  Mr.  Phineas  Barnes  succeeded  in  1841.  A  graduate  of 
Bowdoin-College,  formerly  a  Professor  of  Greek  and  Latin  at  Waterville,  and 
a  lawyer  of  large  promise  and  fine  talent,  and  a  writer  of  great  precision, 
strength  and  clearness ;  qualities  of  which  he  gave  unquestionable  evidence  after 
his  return  to  the  bar,  and  dying  but  the  other  day  in  full  practice. 

After  Mr.  Barnes,  came  Mr.  Henry  Carter,  also  a  lawyer,  smart,  sharp  and 
laborious,  and  then  Mr.  Elaine,  Speaker  of  the  House,  and  candidate  for  the 
Presidential  chair — a  very  able  man,  a  shrewd  politician,  and  a  good  writer,  of 
large  editorial  experience  —  and  then  other  changes  followed,  until  Mr.  God- 
frey, and  then  Mr.  Pullen,  who  is  now  in  charge,  both  lawyers,  took  hold  of 
the  same  paper  and  helped  it  forward  and  up,  week  by  week. 

Intermediately  however,  and  for  a  short  time  only,  Mr.  William  Willis,  our 
Portland  annalist  and  historian,  took  charge  of  the  Editorial  department,  and 
of  course  —  being  also  a  lawyer,  and  who  is  not,  among  our  editorial  fraternity? 
—  added  much  to  the  reputation  of  the  paper. 

Nor  must  we  forget  our  friend,  William  Pitt  Fessenden — a  lawyer  of  course — 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


53 


then  a  Senator  of  the  United  States,  then  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  and  then 
a  case  of  untimely  death,  in  the  very  meridian  of  his  strength.  How  long  he 
had  charge  of  the  Advertiser,  I  am  not  able  to  say.  I  only  know  that  he  was 
never  a  sprightly,  babbling,  newspaper-gossip,  though  a  conscientious  and  sub- 
stantial writer  on  the  great  questions  of  the  day,  and  that,  even  to  the  last, 
though  he  greatly  improved,  as  a  ready  writer,  while  occupying  the  editorial 
chair,  the  business  of  writing,  day  after  day,  grew  more  and  more  irksome  and 
wearing,  till  he  threw  it  aside  forever,  and  returned  to  his  profession,  where  he 


WHITE  HEAD.     SEE  PAGE  55. 

stood  in  the  very  foremost  rank  for  years,  as  you  will  find  by  our  Maine  Reports, 
until  his  translation  to  the  U.  S.  Senate. 

And  here  a  little  anecdote  may  be  introduced,  for  further  illustration.  Mr. 
F.  had  been  in  the  habit  of  consulting  me  from  the  time  of  entering  upon  the 
profession,  upon  every  contemplated  movement  of  importance,  up  to  the  day 
of  his  undertaking  this  editorship.  Once,  for  example,  he  came  to  say  that  he 
was  not  earning  the  salt  for  his  porridge,  though  married,  and  to  one  of  our 
finest  women,  Avith  large  and  wealthy  associations.  A  lawyer  had  just  died  in 


54  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

t  • 

Bridgton,  and  he  was  unable  to  decide  about  going  up  there  and  taking  his 
place. 

"  Take  it  by  all  means,"  said  I,  "  and  lose  no  time.  There  you  will  be  sure 
to  enter  into  a  small  practice,  at  least,  and  in  time  work  your  way  into  what 
will  bring  you  back  here.  And  there  you  will  have  time  for  study  without 
feeling  disheartened.  Study  without  practice  I  look  upon  as  rather  worse  than 
practice  without  study."  He  went. 

After  a  long  while,  he  came  to  see  me  again,  saying  that  he  had  an  idea  of  try- 
ing his  luck  at  Bangor,  where  an  opening  ha  I  just  been  made  by  the  death  of 
somebody  else.  "Go,  by  all  means,"  said  I;  and  he  went  forthwith,  and  of 
course  prospered. 

So,  when  he  came  to  consult  me  about  the  editorship.  He  had  no  taste  for 
the  business — he  never  could  write  with  facility,  he  said.  Whereupon  I 
laughed  at  him,  and  then  told  him  why,  not  only  why  he  could  not  write  with 
facility,  but  why  the  laugh  had  come  in  just  there.  The  truth  was  that  Fes- 
senden  was  never  given  to  trifling,  to  gossip,  or  to  pleasantry.  He  was  too 
much  in  earnest,  too  serious  and  weighty,  and  indulged  too  largely  in  sarcasm, 
and  a  sort  of  gentlemanly  vituperation.  Again,  he  labored  too  much  on  his 
articles — reviewing  them  as  Codman  went  over  his  foliage  with  a  pin.  "Give 
yourself  no  time"  for  such  things,  said  I  "write  hurriedly  —  learn  to  talk  on 
paper,  and  you  will  soon  find  it  easy  enough."  And  he  did. 

And  now  for  OUBSELF,  who  must  not  be  altogether  overlooked. 

After  editing  the  Yankee  for  five  hundred  dollars  a  year,  payable  in  books,  I 
wrote  for  every  paper  in  Portland,  more  or  less,  from  1829  or  30  to  about  1874, 
and  always  without  pay  or  reward,  or  the  hope  of  reward.  Nor  'did  this  quite 
satisfy  me,  for  I  turned  off  lots  of  magazine-stories,  novels,  essays,  &c.,  &c., 
besides  editing  the  New-England  Galaxy,  of  Boston,  and  writing  voluminously 
for  the  Brother  Jonathan,  of  New  York,  the  Courier  and  Enquirer,  of  Ne^v 
York,  the  New  York  Mirror,  The  Sun,  the  Ladies'  Companion,  and  some  other 
papers,  as  a  regular  correspondent. 

Yesterday,  August  23th,  I  was  eighty-one — having  reached  my  eighty-second 
birthday,  though  people  persist  in  misunderstanding,  or  misrepresenting  the 
fact,  just  as  if  a  man's  first  birthday  goes  for  nothing,  or  as  Rip  Van  Winkle 
would  say,  "don't  count" ;  and  I  am  quite  sure  that  I  have  written  and  pub- 
lished in  the  course  of  my  long  life,  abroad  and  at  home,  what  would  make  at 
least  eighty-one  good  sized  volumes — such  as  they  are. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  we  have  among  our  ablest  editors,  whom  we  are 
unable  to  characterize  just  now,  as  they  deserve,  on  account  of  our  limited 
allowance  of  elbow-room,  Francis  O.  J.  Smith,  formerly  of  the  Argus,  Col. 
John  M.  Adams,  originally  associate  editor  with  Mr.  John  A.  Poor,  of  the 
State  of  Maine,  but  now  sole  editor  of  the  Argus,  Mr.  Richardson,  of  the  Ad- 
vertiser, an  evening  paper,  U.  S.  District  Attorney  Talbot,  his  co-adjutor,  Mr. 
Lord  of  the  Christian  Mirror,  Mr.  Colesworthy,  and  Mr.  Elwell,  of  the  Tran- 
script, and  twenty  or  thirty  more  whom  we  should  like  to  honor,  if  it  were 
possible,  under  the  circumstances. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


00 


Now,  all  these  gentlemen,  it  will  be  seen,  with  two  exceptions,  Mr.  Lord  of  the 
Mirror,  and  Mr.  Colesworthy,  were  lawyers,  educated  lawyers,  and  thoroughly 
trained,  if  they  could  only  find  customers.  No  other  profession  seems  to  have 
contributed  so  largely  to  the  department  of  newspaper  literature,  as  that  of  the 
bar.  Of  those  mentioned  here,  only  two  or  three  have  been  guilty  of  a  book.  The 
truth  is  that  lawyers  govern  the  country.  They  make  the  laws ;  they  interpret 
the  laws ;  they  administer  the  laws,  and  they  hold  ab'out  all  the  offices  worth 
having,  either  at  home  or  abroad,  with  here  and  there  an  exception.  But 
why? — why  ? 

WHITE-HEAD. 

Among  the  wonders  and  strange,  peculiar  beauties  which  abound  in  our 
neighborhood,  and  along  our  coast,  there  is  no  one  perhaps  more  generally 


OTTAWA   HOUSE.   SEE   PAGE  56. 


talked  about  than  White-Head,  a  huge  bluff  towering  up  from  the  bottom  of 
the  sea,  with  perpendicular  walls,  as  you  find  them  conscientiously  repre- 
sented in  the  cut. 

On  the  outward  verge,  near  the  water,  you  may  see  —  without  much  effort  of 
the  imagination — a  right  royal  head,  with  what  may  well  pass  for  the  "  likeness 
of  a  kingly  crown,"  with  something  of  the  Assyrian,  or  Babylonian  appen- 
dages. 

Compared  with  the  "Old  man  of  the  Mountain,"  about  which  we  have  all 
been  hearing  for  the  last  fifty  years,  our  White-Head  is  really  life-like,  though 
it  must  be  contemplated  from  a  particular  point,  or  it  may  be  mistaken  for  the 
head  of  a  lion,  or  perhaps  for  no  head  at  all.  Yet  there  it  is,  to  speak  for  itself, 
and  there  it  must  remain  till  the  "wreck  of  matter  and  the  crush  of  worlds." 


56  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

The  rough  tumbling  sea,  the  boundless  view  from  the  elevated  bluff,  and  the 
dark  waves  flashing  in  the  moonlight  or  sunshine,  or  flinging  their  oceans  of 
tumultuous,  phosporescent  fire  along  the  base,  make  White- Head,  or  rather 
Cushing's  Island,  formerly  Bangs's  Island,  one  of  the  most  attractive  points 
along  our  whole  eastern  coast. 

Here  we  have  the  Ottawa-House,  one  of  the  finest  establishments  for  sea- 
bathing, boating,  fishing  or  junketing,  to  be  found  anywhere. 

It  is  about  four  miles  from  the  city,  and  is  in  almost  hourly  communication 
with  it  by  steamers,  neat,  handsome  and  trustworthy. 

THE   OTTAWA-HOUSE 

had  its  origin  we  are  told,  and  believe,  among  our  brethren  of  the  Canadas. 
At  any  rate,  scores  of  Canadians  and  other  provincials  of  that  huge  empire 
which  is  vast  spreading  itself  from  sea  to  sea,  and  from  shore  to  shore,  may  be 
found  summering  themselves,  after  the  pleasantest  fashion  at  the  Ottawa-House 
every  year;  and  cottages  are  going  up,  and  farms  grooving  into  shape  and 
promise,  at  a  most  encouraging  rate  of  progress.  But  come  and  see  for  your- 
self, and  after  having  "done"  the  Island,  the  largest  in  Casco  Bay,  just  push 
out  into  deep  water,  a  few  miles  from  shore,-  and  "bob  for  whales,"  if  your 
taste  lies  that  way,  or,  if  you  are  more  easily  satisfied,  for  halibut,  sword-fish, 
haddock  and  cod. 

OUR  LANDSCAPE   PAINTERS  —  JOIIX  ROLLIN   TILTON. 

This  remarkable  man,  whose  pictures  are  now  commanding  extravagant 
prices  over  sea,  and  obtaining  the  most  extravagant  praise  from  the  British  Art 
Journals,  came  to  Portland  about  the  year  1844,  at  the  age  of  nineteen  or  there- 
abouts. 

He  was  introduced  to  me  by  the  late  John  A.  Poor,  a  man  who  has  left  no 
equal  in  our  land  for  his  knowledge  of  rail-ways  and  his  rail-way  possibilities ; 
a  man  moreover,-  to  whom  Portland  owes  a  debt  she  can  never  pay,  though  she 
may  at  least  acknowledge  it  hereafter,  by  raising  a  monument  to  his  memory; 
a  man  who  sacrificed  himself  and  twenty  years  of  his  life,  in  uplifting  Portland 
to  the  position  she  noAv  occupies. 

Mr.  Poor  had  invited  me  down  to  the  Grand-Trunk  Depot,  then  called  the 
Atlantic  and  St.  Lawrence  Kailway  depot,  where  he  called  my  attention  to 
some  car-panels  in  landscape,  just  finished. 

"How  much  a-piece  ought  we  to  pay  for  them?  he  asked. 

"Well,"  said  I,  substantially,  though  I  cannot  of  course  remember  the  words 
I  employed,  "well,  Mr.  Poor,  these  landscapes  are  exceedingly  spirited  and 
clever,  and  were  evidently  dashed  off  in  the  heat  and  hurry  of  inspiration,  com- 
posed with  the  brush,  and  never  thought  of,  till  they  began  to  appear,  feature 
by  feature,  as  we  see  them  now." 

"Yes,  but  you  have  not  answered  my  questions.  What  are  they  worth  — 
how  much  ought  we  to  pay  for  them?"  Mr.  Poor  was  a  director,  and  was 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  57 

charged  with  all  kinds  of  duty  upon  the  Atlantic  and  St.  Lawrence  rail-way. 

"They  are  well  worth,"  said  I,  "five  dollars  a-piece.  May  I  ask  what  you 
are  called  upon  to  pay  for  them  ?" 

According  to  my  present  recollection,  his  answer  was  to  this  effect. 

"Judge  Preble,  our  President,  complains  of  my  extravagance  in  "buying  pic- 
tures of  acknowledged  merit  for  these  panels.  Now  the  painter  of  these  land- 
scapes we  hire  by  the  day,"  I  think  he  said  at  two  dollars  a  day,  "and  they 
cost  us  only  thirty  cents  apiece."  I  cannot  be  perfectly  sure  of  the  language 
employed  by  Mr.  Poor,  but  I  know  that  I  was  beyond  measure  astonished  at 
the  actual  cost  mentioned,  and  at  the  wonderful  spirit  and  facility  of  touch 
manifested. 

"Here  he  comes  now,  shall  I  introduce  him  to  you?"  said  Mr.  Poor. 

"Certainly,"  and  forthwith  we  became  acquainted.  Tilton  was  tall  and  very 
thin,  a  mere  boy,  in  appearance.  After  confirming  the  story  told  by  Mr.  Poor, 
he  added  in  reply  to  a  proposition  made  by  me,  that  he  had  been  earning  his 
dollar  and  a  half,  or  two  dollars  a  day,  enough  to  support  himself  and  a  mother 
he  had  left  in  New-Hampshire,  and  he  was  unwilling  to  venture  upon  the 
enterprize  I  suggested,  which  was  this ;  I  wanted  him  to  give  up  the  panel- 
work,  and  betake  himself  to  landscape-painting  of  a  better  style.  I  would 
furnish  him  with  a  large  back-office,  having  a  good  northern  light,  or  give  him 
a  studio  in  the  hall  overhead,  through  which  I  had  opened  a  large  sky-light  for 
Akers,  whom  I  had  on  my  hands  at  the  same  time. 

Having  persuaded  him  at  last,  with  the  help  of  Mr.  Poor,  to  undertake  legiti- 
mate landscape,  I  ordered  a  picture,  and  promised  to  obtain  other  "patronage" 
as  the  blockheads  call  it,  provided  only  that  he  would  give  me  hurried  sketches, 
instead  of  labored  pictures. 

But  anxious  to  give  me  a  good  penny-worth,  he  labored  just  as  Codman  had 
done,  until  he  spoiled  a  finely  imagined,  and  cleverly  designed  picture,  which  I 
threw  aside  at  once,  giving  my  reasons,  which  he  certainly  profited  by ;  for, 
from  that  day  forward,  he  was  never  guilty  of  laborious,  over-doing,  to  my 
knowledge. 

Within  six  months  after  this,  he  had  produced  quite  a  number  of  beautiful, 
and  eminently  original  pictures,  compositions  and  studies,  with  a  facility  which 
was  anything  but  "fatal"  to  him. 

And  then,  after  this,  he  got  up  quite  a  gallery  of  large  and  small  paintings, 
the  largest,  six  feet  by  four,  and  the  smaller  of  a  more  manageable  cabinet  and 
library-size,  which  were  got  rid  of  by  raffle ;  every  subscriber  being  sure  of  one 
picture  at  least,  got  a  good  penny-worth,  so  that  he  was  enabled  to  go  abroad 
after  awhile,  and  even  to  get  married,  under  circumstances  exceedingly  favor- 
able, to  a  highly-gifted  and  highly-cultivated  woman,  of  New  York,  who  under- 
stood him  thoroughly,  and  foresaw  from  the  first  what  he  is  now  accomplishing. 

Some  few  years  ago,  Tilton  was  charged  with  imitating  Claude.  Now  it  must  be 
acknowledged,  that,  in  some  of  his  paintings,  which  he  turned  out  with  aston- 
ishing rapidity,  about  1860,  there  was  a  striking  resemblance,  a  general,  not  a 
particular  resemblance,  to  the  style  and  treatment  of  Claude,  in  the  atmosphere 


58  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

and  water,  so  that,  if  I  had  not  been  well  acquainted  with  his  doings  from 
the  first,  I  should  not  have  scrupled  to  say,  here  is  no  imitation,  but  there  is 
undoubtedly  what  all  painters  and  poets  and  sculptors  must  have,  no  matter 
how  great  their  originality,  the  elements  of  education,  or  what  may  be  called 
the  hints  or  suggestions  of  a  kindred  spirit. 

Now  I  happen  to  know  just  how  he  fell  into  the  manner  of  Claude,  without 
ever  having  seen  a  Claude,  nor  perhaps  a  good  engraving  from  one  of  his  land- 
scapes or  water-views,  with  the  sun  setting  through  a  mist. 

Wishing  to  turn  his  peculiarities  to  account,  and  to  coax  him  out  of  the  track 
he  was  running  in,  I  engaged  him  to  give  me  a  picture  of  Cape-Cottage,  a 
watering-place  I  had  established  on  Cape-Elizabeth  twenty  years  before,  and 
re-built  with  stone,  after  a  fire  had  swept  away  the  original  structure. 

It  was  now  picturesque  —  I  might  say  grotesque,  if  not  absolutely  fantastic; 
but  then  it  was  delightfully  situated  near  the  sea-shore,  on  a  bluff,  and  over- 
looking the  whole  neighborhood  of  water  and  cove  and  villages,  with  Portland 
in  full  view. 

The  picture  he  painted,  and  I  have  it  now,  and  mean  to  keep  it,  not  more 
for  its  intrinsic  beauty,  though  Tilton  himself  was  heartily  ashamed  of  it,  when 
he  saw  it  last,  about  ten  years  ago,  but  because  of  its  origin. 

When  he  called  me  up  to  his  room,  and  I  stood  before  this  picture,  I  said 
something  about  the  resemblance  to  Claude. 

"Claude,  Claude" — murmured  the  artist,  as  if  he  wanted  to  say  "who  the 
plague  is  Claude?" 

"Claude  de  Loraine,"  said  I,  the  most  natural,  poetical,  and  in  my  judgment, 
the  most  beautiful  of  landscape-painters." 

From  what  followed,  no  doubt  was  left  on  my  mind,  that  Tilton  was  wholly  un- 
acquainted with  the  doings  and  characteristics  of  Claude. 

Here  then,  just  here,  originated  the  style,  which  on  further  development,  led 
people  to  charge  our  young  friend  with  imitation  at  least,  if  not  plagarism.  I 
have  now  in  my  possession,  a  large  view  of  Rome,  and  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo  in 
the  foreground  —  a  narrow  stream,  with  peasantry,  and  St.  Pauls  in  the  distance, 
towering  to  the  heavens,  and  melting  away  in  the  summer  atmosphere,  which 
Claude  used  to  revel  in,  and  I  must  acknowledge  that,  if  a  stranger  were  to 
see  it  now,  being  himself  a  judge  of  paintings  and  familiar  with  Claude,  I 
should  not  be  surprised  to  hear  him  call  it  an  imitation  of  Claude.  Yet,  noth- 
ing could  be  more  unjust;  for  the  very  peculiarities,  which  seem  to  have  been 
suggested  by  Claude,  may  be  seen  to-day,  in  the  first  picture  he  painted  for  me, 
after  he  had  broken  away  from  the  sketchy,  hap-hazardous  panel-style — 
Cape-Cottage. 

After  some  years  passed  in  Eome,  Florence  and  Venice,  he  returned  on  a 
visit  to  Portland,  only  to  reproach  himself  in  a  most  unaffected  way,  for  all  he 
had  done  here,  though  some  of  his  finest  early  pictures  were  in  the  possession 
of  our  townsmen,  J.  B.  Brown,  Dr.  James  M.  Cummings  and  others,  who  had 
obtained  them  at  the  raffle,  whereby  be  was  enabled  to  go  abroad,  full  of  gener- 
ous hope,  and  holy  confidence. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


59 


To  prove  that  he  was  heartily  ashamed  of  what  I  regard  even  now,  as  the 
best  picture  he  had  ever  painted  at  the  time — a  View  of  Rome,  which  was- 
taken  from  the  old  Roman  landing,  at  a  point,  suggested  by  Akers,  and  said  to 
be  entirely  new  in  the  history  of  art,  I  have  only  to  mention  what  follows : 

This  beautiful  picture,  he  proposed  to  touch  over,  while  with  me  in  1862 ;  but 
I  said  no — decidedly  no  —  I  had  already  suffered  in  that  way,  by  allowing  Charles 
Codman  to  "touch  up,"  as  he  called  it,  the  sky  of  his  first  fine  picture, painted 
after  our  acquaintance  began.  While  "touching"  it  up— he  touched  in  a  terrible 
carmine  sky,  so  that  the  very  foliage  he  had  gone  over  so  carefully  with  a  pin, 
lost  all  its  vivacity. 

"No,  no,"  said  I,  —  "poets  and  painters  are  alike."  They  are  never  to  be 
trusted  with  emendations.  What  is  new,  they  mistake  for  what  is  better,  and  so 


PORTLAND  HEAD  LIGHT.     SEE  PAGE  61. 


they  trample  on  what  is  old,  because  they  have  grown  too  familiar  with  it,  and 
push  forth  all  their  new  ideas,  with  unrelenting  zeal  and  earnestness.  Alexan- 
der Pope  was  a  proof,  and  even  Coleridge  and  Wordsworth  ;  and  the  only  painter 
I  ever  knew  who  did  not  spoil  his  work  by  going  over  it  anew,  after  the  origi- 
nal inspiration  had  died  out,  and  the  glow  of  composition  had  become  a  trouble, 
was  Chester  Harding,  who  went  over  a  portrait  of  myself,  which  he  had  painted 
for  the  Somerset-House  Exhibition,  and  threw  aside  in  a  fit  of  desperation; 
yet,  after  a  twelve-month  or  so  he  took  it  up  anew,  and  in  two  hours,  just  as  I 
was  about  leaving  London,  produced  not  only  a  capital  likeness,  but,  in  iny 


60  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

judgment,  the  very  best  portrait  he  ever  painted.  It  was  a  half-length,  and 
perished  in  our  great  fire,  among  the  household  gods  of  our  eldest  daughter  who 
had  returned  to  Portland,  not  long  before. 

After  his  return  to  Italy,  he  launched  forth  into  another  style,  at  once  new, 
beautiful,  and  astonishing.  Now  his  atmosphere,  if  you  turned  the  picture  up 
made  you  dizzy;  now  too,  the  hues  of  sunset  melted  into  the  waters  of  the  Ad- 
riatic— which  seemed  absolutely  wet — like  amathyst  and  rubies  and  fluid  gold 
—  a  lake  of  molten  jewelry,  flushing  up  with  a  changeable  sky. 

After  this  —  after  doing  Rome  and  the  neighborhood  of  Rome,  and  painting 
pictures  of  Baicae,  a  famous  watering-place  of  old  Rome,  of  the  Carnpagna, 
the  Torre  degli  Schiavi,  the  Adriatic  Switzerland,  Nemi,  of  which  he  sent  me 
an  admirable  sketch  in  pen  and  ink,  with  all  the  groupings,  figures,  &c ;  some  of 
which  have  found  their  way  to  this  country,  and  even  to  this  town.  Owing  to 
the  liberality  of  Mr.  J.  B.  Brown,  he  disappeared  for  a  season,  and  then  brought 
forth  his  water-colored  studies  of  Egypt,  for  which  he  has  lately  refused  some 
thousands  of  dollars.  But  enough.  The  reputation  of  John  Rollin  Tilton  is 
now  established  forever,  beyond  the  reach  of  accident  or  peradventure,  though 
he  is  far  from  being  satisfied  with  himself,  and  refuses  to  take  any  more  orders. 

P.  S.  Since  the  above  was  written,  it  has  occurred  to  me  that  some  of  the 
following  additional  items  may  not  come  amiss  to  the  general  reader : 

Our  friend,  Mr.  John  B.  Brown  has,  in  his  fine  gallery,  additional  to  many  of 
Tilton' s  earlier  pictures,  painted  here,  a  superb  painting  of  large  size  and  ex- 
ecuted in  Rome. 

The  pen-and-ink  sketch  already  mentioned  of  Nemi,  a  lake  and  village  of 
central  Italy,  the  centre  of  an  extinguished  volcano,  about  seventeen  miles 
from  Rome,  appeared  to  indicate  a  sacrifice  like  that  of  Iphegenia.  The  com- 
position was  beautiful,  the  fore-ground  all  occupied  with  groups  and  figures,  full 
of  life  and  character. 

I  have  also  a  sketch  in  oil  of  St.  George,  of  the  Seaweed-Isle,  which  he  sent 
me  in  1869 — a  wonderful  affair,  and  the  work  I  dare  say  of  two  or  three  hours 
at  the  most,  reminding  you  of  his  first  panel-work,  though  altogether  superior. 

On  parting  with  Tilton  and  Akers,  my  last  words  were,  "Be  patient,  my 
young  friend" — addressing  myself  to  Tilton  —  "and  if  you  last  a  few  years, 
you  will  stand  in  the  very  foremost  rank  of  landscape-painters  —  but — and  this, 
I  would  have  you  lay  to  heart,  as  the  foundation  you  most  need — you  must  give 
special  attention  to  the  human  figure  and  to  grouping." 

And  to  Akers  I  said — your  busts  are  sometimes  worthy  of  the  highest  com- 
mendation; but — you  must  give  your  attention  to  anatomy  and  drawing,  and 
if  you  do,  after  a  few  years  at  furtherest,  you  will  rank  with  the  foremost  of 
living  sculptors  in  that  department,  and  prepare  yourself,  in  the  best  possible 
way,  for  a  higher  flight. 

About  four  years  after  this  painting,  and  this  advice,  I  received  two  letters  by 
the  same  packet,  one  from  Akers  and  the  other  from  Tilton,  each  written,  it 
appeared,  without  the  knowledge  of  the  other,  and  saying  that  Sir  William 
Stewart  had  just  given  each  of  them  an  order,  and  confirmed  all  I  had  said  to 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  61 

both  and  almost  in  the  same  language.  Hence  the  fine  grouping,  and  capital 
figures,  full  of  spirit  and  busy  life,  in  the  View  of  Rome;  and  hence,  un- 
doubtedly, the  progress  of  Akers  in  marble  portraiture,  and  the  inspiration  of 
his  Pearl-Diver.  This  was  in  1854 — twenty  years  ago.  When  we  first  met, 
Akers  was  about  twenty-five,  and  Tilton  about  nineteen  or  twenty. 

Perhaps  you  have  met  with  a  volume  entitled  Art  Hints,  by  Mr.  James  Jack- 
son Jarves,  published  at  London  in  1855  —  or  rather  I  should  say,  purporting 
to  be  the  work  of  Mr.  Jarves;  for  the  book  was  not  his,  but  Tilton's.  All  the 
criticisms,  and  every  thought  having  relation  to  the  art  of  painting  must  have 
proceeded  from  Tilton,  for  with  all  his  pretensions,  Mr.  Jarves  was  no  judge  of 
painting  or  pictures,  when  I  knew  him  —  about  1855  —  I  should  say. 

While  wandering  hither  and  thither  about  Rome,  Tilton  made  two  discov- 
eries which  were  decidedly  impressive.  One  day,  he  found  in  the  garret  of  a 
house  where  Claude  had  once  lived,  an  old  worthless  picture,  as  the  proprietor 
himself  thought,  which  Tilton  took  a  fancy  to,  and  bought  for  a  trifle.  It 
proved  to  be  what  he  supposed  at  the  time,  a  veritable  Claude,  of  singular 
beauty,  so  captivating  to  Ruskin  who  saw  it  on  Tilton's  way  to  America,  as  to 
throw  him  into  raptures.  It  was  left  for  a  while  in  the  Athenaeum  at  Boston, 
to  be  stared  at  and  wondered  over,  by  now  and  then  a  native  artist,  or  connois- 
seur. 

The  other  discovery  was  that  of  a  Titian — a  real,  undoubted  and  charming 
Titian,  which  was  also  exhibited  in  the  Boston  Athenaeum  for  a  while,  then  left 
with  me  for  a  twelvemonth  or  so,  together  with  the  Claude,  and  then  shipped 
for  another  world  with  the  same  Claude. 

The  discovery  happened  in  this  way.  Tilton  was  looking  over  a  ragged  and 
greatly  discolored  collection  of  old  pictures  in  the  rooms  of  a  pawn-broker.  He 
had  Jarves  for  a  companion.  While  running  his  eye  over  the  collection,  Tilton 
saw  a  small  picture  high  up  on  the  walls,  and  only  to  be  reached  by  a  long  lad- 
der, which  fastened  his  attention.  On  climbing  up,  he  felt  still  more  interested, 
and  on  bringing  it  down,  he  bargained  for  it,  much  to  the  surprise  of  Jarves, 
for  he  saw  no  merit,  and  no  suggestion  of  merit,  in  the  picture.  Tilton  felt 
satisfied,  that,  although  sadly  out  of  repair,  it  was  beyond  all  doubt  a  Titian. 
Jarves  only  laughed  at  him.  But  Tilton  persisted,  and  after  cleansing,  not 
"cleaning,"  it,  most  carefully,  sent  it  to  Page,  the  best  copier  and  translator  of 
Titian  that  ever  breathed,  for  authentication.  It  was  a  Danae  —  and  is  now  an 
acknowledged  gem,  and  of  itself,  enough  to  establish  the  instinct  of  Tilton,  as 
an  artist  and  a  discoverer. 

PORTLAND  HEAD-LIGHT. 

Here,  within  a  short  distance  of  Cape-Cottage,  a  watering  place  of  consider- 
able reputation,  heretofore,  we  have  the  picturesque  light-house  here  represent- 
ed, with  fog-bell,  the  keeper's  lodge,  a  prodigious  bluff,  and  piles  of  talco-slate 
and  strange  geological  formations,  interfused  with  trap-dykes,  miles  in  length, 
hissing  hot,  and  a  boundless  view  of  the  great  Ocean,  separating  Cape-Cottage 
from  Great  Britain. 


62  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Tim  Cottage,  by  the  way,  was  btiilt  by  me — ourself — and  occupies  a  very 
favorable  position,  about  three  and  a  half  miles  from  our  city.  It  is  a  sort  of 
bastard  gothic,  built  of  the  stone  which  constitutes  the  foundations  of  Cape- 
Elizabeth,  and,  on  the  whole,  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  favored  spots 
along  our  whole  coast,  for  bathing,  boating,  fishing,  climbing,  loitering  and 
romping. 

Many  of  the  most  beautiful  among  our  three  hundred  and  sixty-five  islands, 
which  are  said  —  and  believed  by  the  old  settlers  and  fishermen  to  cluster  in 
Casco-Bay — are  in  sight  from  all  the  windows  of  this  Cottage. 

And  so  too,  is  Portland,  with  most  of  our  outlying  neighborhood;  so  that, 
look  where  you  will,  if  you  but  turn  your  head,  a  new  picture  opens  to  you,  of 
land  or  water,  mountain  or  village. 

It  was  here,  and  while  getting  up  one  of  these  pictures  for  me  that  Tilton, 
the  bewitching  landscape-painter,  first  fell  into  the  manner  of  Claude  de  Lo- 
raine,  without  knowing  it. 

PORTLAND   STONE-WARE   COMPANY, 

North  end  of  Deering's  Bridge;  manufacture  every  kind  of  pottery  and  stone- 
ware, with  drain  and  sewer-pipe,  of  uncommon  excellence.  J.  T.  Winslow, 
Superintendent.  All  the  furnaces  have  been  rebuilt,  and  re-arranged  on  new 
principles  in  this  fine  establishment,  within  a  few  months,  at  a  very  large 
outlay,  and  they  are  now  doing  wonders. 

PORTLAND   CEMENT   DItAIN-PIPE   COMPANY. 

Here  is  manufactured  an  Hydraulic  cement  pipe,  which  has  a  wide  and 
growing  reputation.  True,  Stock  well  &  Co.,  Agents,  Danforth-street,  Western 
Promenade. 

WIDOW'S    WOOD-SOCIETY, 

one  of  the  most  effective  and  admirable  institutions  in  this  part  of  our  country. 
The  contributions  have  amounted  to  over  fifty  thousand  dollars,  within  the  last 
thirty  years.  The  Directors  are  from  all  the  different  churches.  H.  C.  Barnes, 
President,  Lewis  B.  Smith,  Vice-President,  Samuel  Kolfe,  Treasurer. 

FEMALE  ORPHAN- ASYLUM. 

Here  is  another  of  our  noiseless  unpretending  charities,  established  in  1828, 
with  a  property  valued  at  50,000  dollars,  fifteen  lady  managers,  earnest,  faithful 
and  zealous— going  about  and  doing  good;  and  all,  if  not  " by  stealth,"  in 
such  a  way,  that  they  would  "  blush  to  find  it  fame."  The  average  of  children 
fed,  clothed  and  educated  in  this  beautiful  Home  on  State-street,  is  twenty-five. 
Mrs.  J.  T.  McCobb,  President,  Mrs.  J.  B.  Matthews,  Vice-President,  Abby  S. 
Barrett,  Secretary,  and  Mary  E.  Barrett,  Treasurer. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


OLD-ORCHARD  BEACH. 


63 


This  new  watering-place — new  in  comparison  with  half  a  hundred  others 
along  our  coast,  seems  likely  to  secure  for  itself  in  perpetuity,  a  most  alluring 
reputation. 

It  is  about  fifteen  miles  from  our  city,  three  miles  or  so  from  Saco,  and  is 
right  on  the  way  of  our  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad,  one  of  the  pleasantest  and 
best  in  the  country,  and  one  of  the  most  reasonable  in  its  charges. 

They  have  there  about  ten  miles  —  think  of  that — ten  miles  of  hard  smooth 


OLD  ORCUABD  BEACH. 

beach,  where  chariot-races  might  be  had,  after  the  style  of  ancient  Greece  and 
Rome,  and  where  the  trampling  of  the  ocean  may  be  felt,  a  long  way  inland, 
when  its  blood  is  up. 

The  sea  and  surf-bathing  are  wonderfully  fine — multitudinous  indeed,  and 
almost  uninterrupted ;  and  the  three  thousand  strangers,  who  have  lately  found 
homes  in  no  less  than  twelve  large  hotels  at  Old-Orchard,  make  the  whole 
neighborhood  exceedingly  attractive.  Among  these,  and  all  in  good  repute, 
are  the  St.  Cloud,  the  Russell-House,  the  Adams-House,  Pine-Cottage,  and 
the  Moulton-IIouse. 

The  beautiful,  smooth  beach  is  likened  to  that  of  Long-Branch  in  New  York— 


64  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

but,  although  it  may  be  for  New  England  what  Long  Branch  is  for  the  Empire- 
State,  still  it  is  something  more  and  better,  on  several  accounts,  being  out  of 
the  way,  strange  and  beautiful,  and  not  so  much  vexed  with  shipping. 

Not  far  from  the  Old-Orchard  House,  you  may  find  Fern-Park,  a  beautiful 
and  neatly  arranged  solitude  of  forty  or  fifty  acres,  set  thick  — or  thickly 
enough,  with  large  trees  — and  provided  with  gateways  and  groves,  and  flirta- 
tion paths,  and  rustic  seats,  where  whispering  may  be  heard  at  all  hours  after 
sun-set. 

HOME  FOB  AGED  WOMEN. 

Of  this  admirable  Institution,  calculated  to  meet  the  wants  of  a  class,  hereto- 
fore, and  almost  hitherto  overlooked,  aged  women  of  worth  and  character,  left 
helpless  and  alone,  we  could  not  say  all  we  desire  without  appearing  extravagant. 

Originally  established,  without  parade  or  pretension,  in  1855,  and  occupying 
a  small  frame-house,  its  growth  has  been  so  steady,  though  rather  slow,  that 
just  now  it  occupies  a  lot  100  feet  on  Emery-street  by  185  in  depth,  equal  to 
18,500  square  feet,  with  all  the  grounds,  trees,  gardens,  &c.,  of  the  late  Gov- 
ernor Parris— and  the  Mansion-House  with  all  the  appendages,  remodeled,  by 
Mr.  F.  H.  Fassett,  with  entire  success,  furnishing  accommodation  for  thirty 
inmates. 

Upon  these  grounds  and  buildings,  the  Association  have  expended  only  25,000 
dollars,  leaving  a  fund  invested  for  future  contingencies  of  13,000  dollars. 

Mrs.  John  T.  Oilman,  President,  Mrs.  Neal  Dow  and  Mrs.  Samuel  E.  Spring, 
Vice  Presidents,  Miss  Julia  Greeley,  Secretary,  and  Miss  Elizabeth  Mountfort, 
Treasurer. 

SOCIETY  OF  NATURAL    HISTORY. 

Organized  in  a  little  one-story  frame  building — a  school-house—in  Dec.  1843 ; 
incorporated  June  7,  1850  — and  eminently  prosperous  up  to  the  burning  of  our 
beautiful  Exchange,  in  1854,  where  rooms  had  been  assigned  to  it,  and  lectures, 
with  occasional  demonstrations,  were  given. 

A  very  valuable  collection  had  been  gathered,  and  a  large  museum  for  a  town 
the  size  of  Portland,  had  got  together,  when  the  great  fire  of  18G6  over-swept 
the  whole — nothing  was  saved. 

The  Society  now  occupy  rooms  in  the  upper  story  of  our  City-Government 
building,  where  they  have  gathered,  for  the  third  time,  quite  a  handsome, 
though  not  a  very  large  collection  of  specimens. 

Dr.  "William  Wood,  President,  Wm.  N.  Gould,  Secretary,  Edward  Gould, 
Treasurer. 

MERCANTILE  LIBRARY. 

Established  in  1851.    In  the  great  fire  of  '66  they  lost  a  library  of  nearly  4,000 
volumes,  but  have  since  got  together  nearly  5,000.    Any  citizen  may  have  books 
by  paying  two  dollars  a  year. 
In  addition  to  this  Library  they  have  an  invested  fund  of  $10,000. 


PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED.  65 

Their  rooms  are  in  the  Congress-Hall  block,  corner  of  Congress  and  Temple 
Streets. 

C.  H.  Fling,  President,  John  C.  Proctor,  Treasurer,  Sam'l  B.  Grey,  Recording 
Secretary,  Chas.  S.  Fobes,  Corresponding  Secretary,  Miss  D.  P.  Coombs,  Li- 
brarian. 

The  lectures  delivered  before  this  Association  every  year  have  been  among 
the  best  in  our  country.  No  expense  seems  to  have  been  spared :  and  they 
have  been  not  only  attractive,  but  profitable. 

PORTLAND   INSTITUTE   AND   PUBLIC,    OK   PEOPLES'    LIBRAKY. 

This  very  creditable  association  was  incorporated  January  22d,  1867,  with  a 
view  to  the  establishment  and  maintenance  of  a  public  library,  or  rather  of  a 
peoples'  library,  which  title  would  much  better  indicate  the  liberal  character  of 
this  institution. 

It  was  intended  to  set  up  and  encourage,  after  a  worthy  manner,  a  special 
Institute  of  Natural-History,  perhaps  by  adapting,  or  absorbing,  the  Society  of 
Natural-History,  already  established  here,  in  the  upper  hall  of  our  City-govern- 
ment building,  in  the  confident  hope  moreover,  that,  in  time,  and  at  no  very 
distant  day,  there  would  be  a  gallery  of  art,  with  scientific  and  other  lectures  — 
which  might  hereafter,  be  developed  into  something  of  a  University.  And  all 
this,  we  believe  must  happen  hereafter,  judging  by  the  progress  we  see. 

Two  very  large,  handsome  rooms,  and  three  smaller,  have  been  furnished 
to  the  society,  in  the  city-government  building,  on  the  ground-floor,  as  you 
enter  from  Congress-street. 

By  private  contributions,  and  by  the  liberal  action  of  our  city,  we  have  already 
gathered,  nearly  15,000  bound  volumes,  cart-loads  of  pamphlets,  &c.,  &c.,  and 
a  number  of  busts  and  paintings  well  worthy  of  consideration. 

Life  membership  is  fifty  dollars ;  and  citizens  pay  two  dollars  a  year,  with 
right  to  take  two  volumes  at  a  time,  while  the  rooms  are  open  to  the  people, 
without  charge,  at  all  regular  hours— that  is,  from  10  to  1  P.  M. ;  from  2  to  6., 
and  from  7  to  9  P.  M.  Win.  L.  Putnam,  President,  Israel  Washburn,  Vice- 
President,  Edward  A.  Noyes,  Clerk,  Treasurer  and  Librarian,  S.  M.  Watson, 
Miss  L.  L.  Braizer,  Miss.  M.  E.  Barbour,  Assistant  Librarians. 

OUR  LANDSCAPE   PAINTERS  —  HARRY  BROWN. 

The  career  of  this  fine  artist  is  but  another  illustration  of  that  American 
characteristic,  which  stops  at  nothing,  when  thoroughly  roused,  though  unac- 
quainted perhaps  with  the  very  elements  of  success. 

Whether,  like  General  Scott,  conquering  an  empire  with  forces  which,  in 
comparison  with  what  would  seem  to  be  indispensable,  were  little  more  than  a 
corporal's  guard,  or  undertaking  huge  enterprises  in  sculpture,  like  Paul  Akers, 
without  a  knowledge  of  drawing  or  anatomy,  or  magnificent  landscapes,  like 
Tilton  or  Codman,  without  having  studied  a  day,  we  are  always  achieving  im- 
possibilities, working  head-first,  and  without  shrinking  or  quailing,  against  the 


66  PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED. 

established  principles  of  government,  of  political  economy  and  finance,  and 
even  of  war,  whether  on  land  or  sea ;  and  what  is  yet  stranger,  always  triumph- 
ing at  last,  and  astonishing,  not  only  ourselves,  but  all  the  rest  of  the  world. 

About  fifteen,  or  perhaps  eighteen  years  ago,  according  to  my  present  recollec- 
tion, I  was  invited  into  a  painter's  work-shop,  on  Exchange-street,  opposite  my 
office,  to  look  at  a  head  just  turned  off  by  Harry  Brown,  a  young  man,  who 
at  best,  only  claimed  to  be  a  painter  of  signs,  banners,  &c.,  &c.,  in  full  practice. 

The  head  was  a  wretched  affair,  and  I  lost  no  time  in  advising  him  to  give 
up  the  idea  of  portraiture ;  but  while  talking  with  him,  my  attention  happened 
to  be  attracted  by  a  rough  landscape  sketch,  hung  in  the  shadow.  It  was  really 
rich,  clever,  and  full  of  promise.  When  I  found  that  this  was  his  work,  thrown 
off  in  the  heat  and  hurry  of  sudden  inspiration,  while  wandering  by  himself 
along  the  sea-shore,  and  among  the  out-works  of  the  wilderness,  I  urged  him, 
with  all  earnestness,  to  try  his  hand  at  landscape — sea-views,  &c., — to  begin 
at  once,  and  to  lose  no  time. 

All  this,  he  undertook,  and  at  once,  and  within  two  or  three  years,  he  began 
to  "astonish  the  natives,"  and  has  kept  on  and  on,  growing  bravely,  until  just 
now,  his  marine  paintings  are  universally  acknowledged  for  master-pieces,  and 
he  has  orders  from  a  distance  which  are,  to  say  the  least  of  them,  very  encourag- 
ing and  flattering. 

Within  the  last  year,  having  lost  a  beloved  son  of  great  promise,  he  went 
abroad  for  relief,  and  after  seeing  the  finest  galleries  and  studying  the  best 
pictures,  returned  only  to  show  a  large  improvement,  with  a  wholesome  trans- 
fusion of  what  he  had  garnered  up  in  his  travels. 

Not  long  since,  he  undertook,  "at  the  special  instance  and  request"  of  ex-gov- 
ernor Washburn,  to  better  a  somewhat  questionable  portrait  of  that  gentleman, 
and  succeded  so  well,  that  I  should  be  inclined  to  qualify  what  I  said  to  him  at 
our  first  interview,  about  dabbling  with  portraiture.  Strangely  enough,  his 
experience  in  landscape  had  given  him  such  decided  notions  of  color,  and  even 
of  drawing,  that  the  portrait  surprised  and  gratified  me. 

But,  after  all,  his  marine-views  are  what  he  must  depend  upon  for  a  great 
reputation.  Some  are  quite  wonderful  —  and  so  much  out  of  the  common-way, 
that  you  can  detect  no  resemblance  to  any  other  painter.  Eich,  exuberant,  and 
overflowing  with  sunshine  and  truthfulness,  what  should  hinder  him,  with  his 
industrious  habits  and  glowing  ambition,  from  taking  a  place  in  the  foremost 
rank  of  marine  painters  ? 

THE  OBSEEVATOKY, 

standing  on  the  top  of  Munjoy,  and  commanding  all  the  approaches  by 
sea,  was  built  by  subscription,  and  furnished  with  a  large  telescope,  about  1807. 
Once  it  came  near  being  christened — or  stigmatized  —  as  '  'The  Brown  Tower. ' ' 
This  was  very  soon  after  Salmagundi  appeared,  when  some  of  our  young  wits 
took  the  contagion,  and  we  had  a  series  of  pleasant  papers  by  Charles  Ather- 
ton,  William  Crabtree,  Charles  S.  Daveis  and  William  B.  Sewall,  according  to 
my  present  recollection,  after  the  Salmagundi  type,  in  which  the  observatory 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


67 


became  a  "Brown  Tower,"  suggested  perhaps  by  Mrs.  Radcliffe's  Mysteries  of 
Udolpho,  or  Walpole's  Castle  of  Ottranto,  then  in  their  glory. 

Since  the  above  was  written  we  have  received  the  following  information. 
"On  the  first  day  of  April,  1807,  the  lot  on  which  the  observatory  now  stands, 
was  purchased  by  Lemuel  Moody,  of  Mr.  Enoch  Jones,  of  Bath.  The  pur- 
chase embraced  about  a  half  acre  of  land,  for  which  five  hundred  dollars  were 
paid.  A  company  was  organized,  called  the  "Portland  Monument  Association," 
and  was  composed  of  the  following  named  individuals,  not  one  of  whom  is  now 
living.  Hugh  McLellan,  Lemuel  Weeks,  jr.,  Thomas  Roach,  Smith  Cobb, 
Jonathan  Stuart,  Wm.  Cross,  Joseph  Moulton,  John  McLellan,  Joel  Prince, 


THE  OBSERVATORY. 


Samuel  Freeman,  Jonathan  Tucker,  Moses  Brown,  Stephen  Foster,  Thomas 
Merrill,  jr.,  Parker  Ilsley,  jr.,  John  Hobart,  John  Watson,  Apollus  R.  Cushing, 
Stephen  Stephenson,  John  Woodman,  Walter  Keating,  Win.  Lowell,  Jacob 
Noyes,  Robert  Motley,  James  C.  Jewett,  Wm.  Merrill,  Joseph  McLellan,  jr., 
Rushworth  Jordan,  Wm.  Baker,  Lemuel  Moody,  John  Collins,  2d,  Robert 


68  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Ilsley,  Ilsley  &  Robinson,  Zackariah  Martin,  Charles  Kittridge  and  Joseph 
Steele. 

The  stock  was  divided  into  one  hundred  shares  at  fifty  dollars  each,  of  which 
Mr  Lemuel  Moody  took  twenty-four  shares.  The  monument  was  built  under 
the  direction  of  Mr.  Moody,  and  was  in  his  care  up  to  the  time  of  his  death, 
in  1845. 

The  building  was  erected  immediately  after  the  purchase  of  the  land,  in 
which  timber  of  the  largest  dimensions  and  the  most  durable  kind  was  used, 
and  which  was  obtained  within  one  mile  of  the  spot. 

The  posts  are  to-day,  apparently  as  sound  as  when  the  building  was  first 
erected.  The  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea  is  two  hundred  and  twenty- 
seven  feet.  It  is  eighty-two  feet  from  the  foundation  to  the  upper  deck.  It  is 
thirty-two  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty-two  tons  of  stone 
are  deposited  in  the  lower  part  to  secure  its  safety  in  a  gale  of  wind. 

The  ascent  to  the  cupola  in  which  is  the  telescope,  is  by  winding  stairs,  so 
arranged  as  to  relieve  the  ordinary  fatigue  of  ascending  that  distance. 

A  charge  of  fifteen  cents  is  made  for  the  privilege  of  viewing  the  harbor  and 
surrounding  country,  and  no  person  who  has  made  the  investment  has  reason 
to  regret  it.  There  is  no  point  in  Maine  where  the  view  of  sea  or  land  is  more 
delightful. 

The  keeper  is  on  duty  from  sunrise  to  sunset,  to  signal  vessels  when  off  the 
coast;. by  the  aid  of  the  telescope,  he  can  identify  a  vessel  twenty  miles  from 
the  shore. 

Many  of  our  merchants  interested  in  shipping,  have  private  signals  which  are 
set  at  the  observatory  when  a  vessel  is  seen  approaching  the  harbor,  with  her 
signal  flying,  so  that  every  owner  is  forewarned  of  the  arrival  of  his  vessel 
several  hours  before  she  reaches  the  harbor. 

The  signal  for  foreign  vessels  is  the  national  flag  of  the  vessel  signaled. 
On  the  appearance  of  a  man-of-war,  the  national  flag  with  a  black  ball  under  it 
is  seen  upon  the  observatory. 

The  telescope  now  in  use  is  one  of  Dolland's  make,  in  London,  and  was  pur- 
chased in  1807,  by  Capt.  Andrew  Scott.  It  was  placed  in  the  cupola  of  the 
Observatory  at  that  time,  where  it  has  remained  until  the  present  day,  having 
aided  thousands  now  in  their  graves,  in  obtaining  a  view  of  our  harbor  and 
the  surrounding  country.  In  clear  weather,  a  vessel  can  be  seen  thirty 
miles  from  shore,  with  a  delightful  view  of  the  White-Mountains,  and  the 
intermediate  country.  There  is  no  place  to  which  strangers  who  visit  us,  can 
be  invited  to  obtain  so  good  a  view  of  our  city,  our  harbor  with  its  islands,  the 
ocean  and  its  surrounding  hills  and  valleys ;  indeed  no  more  delightful  view, 
either  of  land  or  sea,  can  be  found,  than  is  obtained  from  the  cupola  of  the 
Portland  Observatory,  in  clear  weather." 

OUR  WRITERS  —  GREXVILLE   MELLEX. 

One  of  our  earliest  and  best  writers,  both  in  prose  and  poetry,  though  chiefly 
distinguished  for  poetry.  The  eldest-born  of  our  late  admirable  chief-justice 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  69 

Hellen,  he  lived  and  died,  after  all,  rather  as  a  lawyer,  than  as  an  author.  Yet 
he  had  many  of  the  highest  qualifications  for  perpetuating  himself  in  poetry ; 
sensitive,  with  an  exceedingly  delicate  perception  of  pictorial  beauty,  and  a  sort 
of  instinct,  amounting  to  another  sense,  in  all  that  related  to  the  self-arranging 
power  of  language,  he  contented  him  with  writing  letters,  occasional  news- 
paper paragraphs,  a  number  of  short,  and  oftentimes  very  beautiful  poems,  and 
at  most,  one  volume  of  prose,  by  "Reginald  Reverie." 

He  began  a  correspondence  with  me,  soon  after  the  appearance  of  my  first 
novel,  in  1818,  and  continued  it  until  after  my  return  from  abroad  in  1827. 

In  1828,  he  published  a  volume  entitled  Sad  Tales  and  Glad  Tales,  if  I  do  not 
mistake,  for  my  copy  was  burned  in  the  fire,  and  I  cannot  find  another.  It  was 
very  clever  and  very  pleasant  reading,  and  met  with  considerable  favor. 

A  poem,  entitled  "Chronicles"  of  '26,"  was  delivered  before  the  Phi  Betta 
Kappa,  of  Cambridge,  and  published  in  Boston,  in  1830. 

And  in  1836,  he  delivered  another  poem,  "The  Passions,"  on  the  anniversary 
of  Spurheim's  death  —  of  course,  our  friend  must  have  been  a  phrenologist, 
though  I  had  forgotten  the  fact,  until  reminded  of  it  by  the  title  of  this  poem. 

Some  of  his  shorter  pieces,  like  the  Lines  to  an  Eagle  Soaring,  were  exceed- 
ingly picturesque  and  vigorous/  almost  sublime  indeed,  but  of  these  I  have  no 
copy,  and  am  not  even  sure  of  the  title. 

At  this  time  he  was  newly  married  to  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  our  young 
women,  Mary  Southgate,  and  was,  or  appeared  to  be,  settled  for  life,  at  North 
Yarmouth,  as  a  lawyer.  Had  he  lived,  he  would  have  been  among  the  fore- 
most, being  industrious,  acute,  and  given  to  analysis,  and  to  the  "competition  of 
opposite  analogies." 

He  had  a  brother  Frederick,  who  turned  off  not  a  few  verses  of  real  merit, 
although  unpretending,  and  a  little  newspaperish. 

OUR  AUTHORS  —  MRS.    ANX   S.    STEPHENS. 

This  remarkable  woman,  whose  novels  and  romances,  amounting  perhaps  to 
forty  or  fifty  volumes,  are  to  be  found  everywhere,  began  her  career  in  Port- 
land under  the  most  painful  and  disheartening  circumstances. 

She  was  English,  by  descent,  and  I  rather  think,  by  immediate  parentage, 
and  may  have  been,  by  possibility,  a  provincial  —  a  New  Brunswick  or  Nova 
Scotia  provincial. 

Her  husband  was  a  journeyman-printer,  who  worked  at  his  trade  for  several 
years  in  Portland. 

About  1828  or  '30  —  a  young,  pleasant  and  attractive  woman  called  on  me,  at 
my  office,  to  ask  my  opinion  of  a  story  she  had  just  written — a  short  story — 
and  as  I  understood  her,  the  first  she  had  ever  attempted. 

I  ran  it  over,  made  a  few  suggestions,  and  then  urged  her,  by  all  means,  to 
cultivate  her  powers  in  that  line  of  work.  The  story  appeared  in  some  paper, 
I  forget  where,  but  her  improvement  was  exceedingly  rapid.  She  wrote  with 
great  ease,  and  great  earnestness,  and  from  the  heart. 

At  another  time,  having  succeeded  in  prose,  she  brought  me  her  "Polish 


70  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Boy,"  a  poem,  which,  though  very  beautiful  and  eminently  dramatic,  I 
took  the  liberty  of  changing  a  little,  here  and  there,  in  the  phraseology,  leaving 
the  versification  and  general  drift  of  the  story  untouched.  This  poem  attracted 
no  little  attention,  and  appeared  in  not  a  few  of  our  leading  newspapers. 

Thus  encouraged  —  after  having  written  a  number  of  short  stories  for  the 
magazines,  the  titles  of  which  have  passed  from  my  recollection,  she  took  a 
flying  leap  over  all  hindrances  in  her  way,  and  plunged  headlong  into  the  deep 
waters,  the  very  whirlpool  of  authorship,  and  appeared  as  the  editor  of  the 
Portland  Magazine.  This  was  in  1830. 

For  this  journal,  which  ended  with  the  first  volume,  I  wrote  occasionally,  and 
then  she  went  with  her  husband  to  New-York,  where  she  enlisted  as  a  regular 
contributor  for  the  Ladies'  Companion,  the  Brother  Jonathan  and  Express, 
becoming  in  fact  the  editor  of  the  first  mentioned  journal,  which  appeared  very 
successful  for  a  time,  but  was  finally  abandoned. 

After  this,  she  began  writing  two-volume  stories,  published  by  Peterson,  of 
Philadelphia,  until  she  had  completed  a  series,  well  known  throughout  the  length 
and  breadth  of  our  land. 

On  a  late  occasion,  she  received,  I  am  told,  by  one  who  has  known  her  well 
for  many  years,  and  has  the  highest  opinion  of  her,  both  as  a  woman  and  as  a 
writer,  no  less  than  five  thousand  dollars  for  a  single  story.  But  then,  it  was 
for  a  prize,  and  if  I  remember  aright,  Mr.  Peterson  or  Mr.  Child  was  the  party 
who  paid  this  large  sum  for  a  magazine-story. 

But  however  this  may  be,  Mrs.  Stephens  is  a  women  of  great  original  genius, 
with  poetry  in  her  blood,  patient,  industrious,  and  full  of  impassioned  enthusi- 
asm. A  friend  of  the  friendless,  a  helper  of  the  helpless,  we  are  told  that  she 
has  great  influence  at  Washington,  and  elsewhere,  among  the  executive 
authorities  of  our  land,  which  she  employs  for  the  help  of  prisoners  and  others, 
who  want  help,  and  know  not  where  to  find  it  this  side  of  the  Mercy-seat, 
wherefore  let  us  wish  her  God  speed !  and  an  abundant  entrance  into  the  joys 
that  are  promised  to  them  that  persevere  in  well-doing — whatever  may  be  the 
judgment  of  the  world  for  a  season.  Let  me  add,  that  notwithstanding  her 
great — her  almost  astonishing  facility,  she  is  not  easily  satisfied  with  her  own 
doings,  nor  ever  ready  to  throw  aside  unfinished,  what  she  may  have  once 
undertaken  seriously,  or  set  her  heart  upon.  For  example  —  in  a  letter  of  July 
23,  1843,  she  writes  to  me  as  follows  in  consequence  of  my  unsparing  criticism. 
"There  is  one  paragraph  which  you  found  fault  with,  which  I  wrote  over  thirty- 
two  times."  There's  for  you,  if  you  are  feeling  your  way  into  authorship. 

The  following  are  only  a  part  of  her  works.  Mabel's  Mistake,  Fashion  and 
Famine,  The  Gold  Brick,  The  heiress  of  Greenland,  Mary  Derwent,  The  Old 
Homestead,  The  Rejected  Wife,  Silent  Struggles,  The  Golden  Apples,  The 
Wife's  Secret. 

UP   COXGRESS   STREET    FROM    THE    PREBLE-nOTJSE. 

Here  we  have  one  of  our  characteristic  views,  which  must  go  far  to  justify 
the  extravagant  admiration  of  strangers,  who  may  "happen"  at  the  Preble 
House,  of  which  some  account  will  be  found  on  page  71. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


71 


The  first  building  on  your  right  is  the  rebuilt  and  greatly-enlarged  mansion 
of  the  late  Commodore  Preble,  who,  with  the  generous  indignation  of  a  patriot 
and  warm-hearted  sailor,  having  early  adopted  for  his  motto  "millions  for  de- 
fence and  not  a  cent  for  tribute,"  went  into  Tripoli  and  all  her  gunboats,  and 
batteries,  with  a  thunder-burst,  and  brought  the  Dey  to  terms,  liberating  the 
American  prisoners  and  abolishing  the  shameful  tribute  we  had  so  long  sub- 
mitted to,  as  did  the  other  great  maratime  powers  of  the  world,  without  remon- 
strance. And  all  this,  be  it  remembered,  without  co-operation  or  help  from 
any  quarter.  No  page  in  our  dazzling  history  of  naval  warfare  shines  with  a 
steadier,  or  more  enduring  splendor,  than  this,  recording  the  negotiation  of  Com. 
Preble,  at  the  cannon's  mouth,  with  the  insolent,  haughty  Barbarian  of  Tripoli. 

Lord  Exmouth  followed  after  a  long  interval,  when  our  brethren  of  the 


UP  COKGHE8S  STREET,  FROM  THE  FEEBLE  HOUSE. 

British  Isles  had  come  to  their  senses,  and  not  liking  the  idea  of  our  Yankee 
" fir  built  frigates "  with  their  "striped  bunting,"  out-manouvering,  and  out- 
witting them  on  the  high  seas,  in  vindication  of  their  national  honor,  went  at  the 
same  batteries,  fortifications  and  gun-boats,  with  a  correspondent  result.  But 
why  not  before  ? 

Next  to  the  Preble-House,  you  have  a  glimpse,  or  hint,  of  the  Longfellow 
mansion,  where  Longfellow,  the  Poet,  was  born ;  that  is,  you  can  see  the  rail- 
ings of  that  front-yard,  already  mentioned,  and  the  shadow  at  least  of  a  three- 
story  brick  house,  to  which  hereafter  travelling  pilgrims  will  go,  as  to  a  shrine. 


72  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Further  along,  you  have  a  view  of  the  large  blocks  and  warehouses,  which 
have  superseded  the  old  tumble-down  shanties,  frame-dwellings,  and  empty 
spaces  which  disfigured  that  whole  region  but  the  other  day.  Most  of  these 
fine  buildings  were  up  and  in  full  blast,  many  years  before  the  great  fire,  which 
took  another  direction,  and  left  this  part  of  our  city  unvisited. 

The  street-car  you  see,  is  another  intimation  of  what  our  people  are  doing. 
We  have  two  lines  through  the  city,  and  another  running  far  away  into  the 
neighborhood,  and  these  cars  are  among  the  best  we  know  of,  and  the  manage- 
ment is  admirable. 

It  may  not  be  amiss  to  add,  that  we  are  beginning  to  lay  wooden  pavements 
along  our  widest  thoroughfares,  and  have  them  now  on  Middle,  Congress  and 
Spring-streets. 

YOUNG  HEX'S  CHRISTIAN-ASSOCIATION: 

This  admirable  Institution,  which  appears  to  be  doing  much  good  and  sup- 
plying a  place  long  vacant  among  us,  embodies  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
members — Universalists  and  Unitarians  being  excluded — not  being  Christians, 
of  course,  according  to  the  Constitution  of  the  Society.  Meeting  second  week 
of  the  month. 

"Othodoxy  is  my  doxy — heterodoxy  yours,"  according  to  Professor  Person. 

We  have  also  a 

WOMAN'S  CHRISTIAN-ASSOCIATION, 

Of  which  we  hear,  by  accident,  now  and  then,  that  they  are  both  earnest  and 
faithful,  and  of  late,  prosperous.  Not  having  any  report,  I  am  obliged  to  forego 
a  great  pleasure  in  referring  to  the  works  of  these  Christian  women,  whether 
young — or  old. 

OUR  POETS  —  MRS.    ELIZABETH  AKERS   ALLEN  —  alias   FLORENCE   PERCT. 

Although,  not  a  Portland  woman,  this  charming  writer,  both  in  prose  and 
poetry,  began  authorship  here,  and  soon  became  a  decided  favorite. 

Her  newspaper  correspondence,  of  which  we  are  constantly  meeting  with 
specimens,  being  sprightly  and  original  —  original  in  the  best  sense  of  the  word 
—  without  extravagance,  and  full  of  pleasantry,  has  been  found  attractive  to 
the  general  newspaper-reader,  in  all  directions. 

Her  "Kock  me  to  Sleep  Mother,"  has  set  half  the  editors  of  our  country  by 
the  ears,  and  forced  out  of  the  field  no  less  than  three  different  claimants,  who 
persisted,  till  met  by  overwhelming  contradiction. 

Her  letter  answering  the  silly  stories  about  her  being  a  factory-girl,  and 
writing  these  very  verses  in  a  garrett,  dripping  with  rain,  or  something  of  the 
sort,  was  truly  refreshing,  and  all  the  more,  that  she  kept  her  temper,  and  fore- 
bore  to  retaliate,  when  the  gossips  and  slanderers  were  utterly  defenceless. 

Much  of  her  poetry  is  really  exquisite,  and  she  is  constantly  improving.  Her 
natural  touches  too  are  indeed  natural;  and  we  could  not  well  say  more — un- 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


73 


affected,  sincere  and  sweet,  as  where  she  flushes  up  with  the  clumps  of  wild 
violets,  and  the  singing-birds. 

A  volume  of  her  fugitive  pieces  appeared  in  Portland,  just  before  she 
winged  her  way  to  a  larger  market,  and  before  she  married  Akers  the  sculptor — 
Paul  Akers — with  whom  she  went  abroad,  burying  him  at  last  in  the  heart  of 
Italy.  Twice  widowed  therefore,  she  has  had  a  large  allowance  of  that  tramp- 
ling, which  brings  out  the  perfume  from  the  lowliest  and  sweetest  flowers. 

OUR  PUBLIC   HOUSES   AXD   HOTELS 

are  among  the  best  in  our  country,  and  therefore,  among  the  best  in  the 
world ;  for,  notwithstanding  the  magnificence,  and  costliness,  and  magnitude  of 
some  hotels  in  Paris,  London,  Dresden,  and  Vienna,  they  have  nothing  over 


FALHOUTH  HOTEL. 

sea  to  be  compared  with  some  of  our  American  establishments,  for  quiet  luxury, 
convenience,  and  adaptation  to  the  wants  of  a  people. 

Among  those  we  have  here,  of  which  a  further  notice  may  be  taken  hereafter, 
are  the  following : 

THE   FALMOUTH — OR  BROWN'S   HOTEL, 

having  been  built  for  Mr.  J.  B.  Brown,  at  a  prodigious  outlay,  when,  after  the 
destruction  of  Wood's  marble  palace,  in  the  great  fire,  the  business-men  and 
large  property-holders  among  us,  appeared  utterly  discouraged,  and  no  individ- 
ual could  be  found — nor  even  a  company,  to  furnish  what  all  were  ready  enough 
to  acknowledge  we  most  needed,  in  our  endeavours  to  get  up  out  of  the  ashes, 
and  begin  the  world  anew. 

At  this  time — and  most  timely  was  the  movement — Mr.  Brown  stepped  for- 
ward and  without  hesitation  or  flinching,  undertook  of  himself  and  without 
help  or  co-operation,  to  build  what  is  now  called  the  "Falmouth,"  and  to 
furnish  it,  with  an  outlay  of  nearly  half  a  million. 


74  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

And  all  this,  he  has  done,  and  is  already,  we  trust,  begining  to  reap  his 
returns. 

The  hotel  completed  has  a  frontage  on  Middle-street  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty-three  feet,  by  one  hundred  and  seventy-four  on  Union — giving  a  super- 
ficial area  of  twenty-six  thousand,  six  hundred  and  twenty-two  feet. 

It  is  six  stories  on  Middle  and  seven  on  Union-street,  resting  on  a  granite 
foundation,  and  built  of  Albert-stone,  on  Middle-street,  and  of  pressed-brick  with 
Albert-stone  trimmings,  iron  columns  and  pilasters,  on  Union. 

It  contains  two  hundred  and  forty  rooms,  and  ten  large,  handsomely 
finished  stores,  or  shops — we  call  them  stores.  The  office  is  thirty  by  sixty  feet, 
and  sixteen  feet  high ;  the  dining-room  fifty-eight  by  seventy-two  feet,  and 
twenty-seven  feet  high,  and  believed  to  be  the  largest  in  New-England.  Under 
the  dining-hall  is  a  large  billiard-room,  with  eight  tables.  Two  tubular  boilers, 
built  by  the  Portland  Company,  furnish  the  steam  required  for  every  purpose  — 
for  heating,  washing  and  bathing. 

They  have  just  introduced  an  elevator — and  bathing-rooms  are  arranged  on 
all  the  principal  floors. 

More  than  eight  hundred  tons  of  the  Albert-stone,  quarried  in  Dorchester, 
N.  B.,  brought  here  in  the  rough,  prepared  by  C.  M.  Brainard,  on  West 
Commercial-street,  and  costing  thirty  thousand  dollars,  were  used. 

The  building  was  designed  by  Mr.  Alexander,  now  of  New- York,  an  architect 
of  whom  we  have  had  occasion  to  speak  before ;  the  frescoing  which  is  worthy 
of  Pompeii  or  Herculanseum,  was  done  by  our  townsman,  C.  J.  Schumacher. 
The  lessee  is  P.  E  Wheeler,  of  Boston. 

OUB  PAINTERS  —  BECKETT. 

Mr.  Beckett — Charles  E.  —  as  I  have  had  occasion  to  say  before,  was  among 
the  earliest,  if  not  absolutely  the  earliest  of  all  our  landscape  painters. 

While  yet  a  shop-boy  with  Dr.  Coe,  the  druggist  and  apothecary,  Exchange 
street,  he  was  constantly  trying  his  hand — and  the  patience  of  his  employer — 
on  all  sorts  of  drawing,  and  grew  very  exact  and  precise. 

And  then,  after  awhile,  he  came  out  with  landscapes,  which,  not  having  a 
good  eye  for  color,  had  the  look  of  engravings ;  the  outlines  and  figures  and 
composition  being  often  worthy  of  high  praise,  while,  for  want  of  harmonious 
coloring,  the  pictures  themselves,  when  completed,  were  unsatisfactory.  Being 
very  industrious  and  patient,  however,  Mr.  Beckett  managed  to  throw  off  quite 
a  large  number  of  paintings,  which  found  favor  among  his  not  very  particular 
friends. 

He  has  left  a  daughter,  by  the  way,  with  some  of  the  properties  he  lacked ; 
for  she  is  really  a  fine  colorist,  and  her  drawings  and  paintings  are  full  of 
promise. 

And  sooth  to  say,  we  have  quite  a  number  of  beginners  and  graduates,  who 
will  be  sure  of  public  favor,  after  awhile. 

Among  these  are  Hudson,  who  has  turned  out  a  number  of  rich  landscapes, 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


75 


cabinet-size,  and  several  others,  who  are  now  waking  up  and  laboring  with  a 
purpose. 

Nor  must  we  overlook  our  neighbor  Cloudman ;  a  very  industrious,  patient 
laborer,  whose  landscapes  are  altogether  too  hard  and  precise — too  crude  — 
from  a  want  of  the  color-sense,  though  otherwise  creditable  enough.  Mr.  C. 
was  in  Paris  a  long  while  ago,  and  made  some  clever  copies  from  the  Louvre. 

THE  UNITED-STATES   HOTEL, 

standing  at  the  junction  of  no  less  than  four  of  our  principal  streets,  with  its 
176  rooms,  and  large  and  costly  additions  and  improvements,  now  in  progress, 
the  whole  establishment  being  newly  furnished,  and  completely  renovated 


UNITED  STATES  HOTEL. 

throughout,  by  the  present  lessee,  Mr.  T.  Walcott,  who  has  acquired  so  high  a 
reputation  at  the  Mountains,  has  undergone  many  revolutions. 

Perhaps,  a  brief  sketch  of  what  this  renowned  Hotel  has  had  to  put  up  with, 
may  not  come  in  amiss  here. 

Originally,  it  was  a  block  of  old  fashioned  three-story  warehouses,  fronting  on 
Federal-street,  and  having  but  one  store  on  Middle-street,  frohting  what  is  now 
called  our  Town-House,  or  the  old  City-Hall,  and  built  in  1805,  or  thereabouts, 
I  should  say,  by  Dr.  Coffin,  father  of  the  celebrated  Mrs.  Richard  Derby,  who 
created  such  a  sensation  abroad,  when  presented  to  her  majesty,  Queen  Char- 
lotte, of  England. 

Long  after  this,  having  undergone  all  sorts  of  changes  for  the  worse,  it  came 
into  the  hands  of  Mr.  Charles  Q.  Clapp,  at  the  time  of  our  great  land  fever; 
and  he,  being  a  man  of  taste,  with  large  means  at  his  command,  lost  no  time 


76  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

in  preparing  it  for  a  hotel  —  not  for  a  tavern — a  respectable  and  rather  attrac- 
tive establishment ;  adding  the  portico  as  you  see  it  now,  enlarging  the  rooms, 
and  converting  the  ground  floor  into  small  shops. 

After  this,  it  was  further  enlarged,  carried  up  another  story,  and  became 
known  far  and  wide  as  the  "States" — or  United  States  Hotel.  Then  it  came  into 
the  hands  of  Mr.  John  W.  Lane,  who  has  uplifted  it  another  story,  by  building 
a  mansard  roof,  and  added  a  large  four-story  brick  building  in  the  rear  on  Con- 
gress-street, so  that  now  it  is  not  only  one  of  the  largest,  but  one  of  the  hand- 
somest public  houses  in  the  city. 

OUB  WBITEBS —  MB.    BECKETT. 

Mr.  Beckett — Sylvester  B. — who  has  published  no  less  than  ten  successive 
Directories  for  Portland,  the  last  of  which  contains  about  four  hundred  pages, 
is  the  author  of  Hester,  a  narrative  and  descriptive  poem  of  decided  merit, 
which  without  being  either  sublime,  or  startling,  is  brimful  and  running  over 
with  touches  of  nature  and  truthfulness. 

OUB  MANTJFACTUBEBS — THE   C.    P.    KIMBAI/L   COMPANT. 

The  carriages  turned  out  by  this  company  have  a  national  reputation,  so  that 
we  hear  of  them  abroad.  The  sleighs  are  marvels  for  strength,  beauty  and 
lightness,  and  what  are  called  the  "jump-seat  carriages,"  a  contrivance  of  the 
head  manufacturer,  Mr.  Charles  P.  Kimball,  late  our  democratic  gubernatorial 
candidate,  are  enough  to  make  you  catch  your  breath,  when  you  see  them  well 
under  way.  C.  P.  Kimball,  President  and  general  manager,  John  M.  Gould, 
Treasurer. 

THE   AGED  BBOTHEBHOOD. 

This  truly  charitable  association  was  incorporated  Oct.  20,  1869. 

The  qualification  which  probably  distinguishes  it  from  every  other  charity 
known  among  men,  is  that  a  member  must  be  at  least  sixty-five  —  originally  it 
was  seventy — but  as  our  elderly  friends  were  growing  impatient,  and  did  not 
like  the  idea  of  waiting  and  ripening  for  three  score  and  ten,  the  five  years 
were  flung  aside,  and  the  more  youthful  are  welcomed  with  open  arms. 

There  were  two  hundred  and  thirty-six  members  in  1872 — and  of  these, 
thirty-two  have  died  since  the  organization.  Now  the  living  amount  to  250. 

The  members  pay  one  dollar  a  year  only,  and  there  has  accumulated  quite  a 
promising,  though  not  a  large  fund. 

So  that,  notwithstanding  the  charities,  funeral  expenses  and  other  charges,  on 
account  of  the  poor  brethren,  we  may  look  forward  with  a  confident  hope 
that  the  Institution  will  be  assuredly  blessed  for  our  children,  if  not  for  our 
children's  children.  Dr.  Charles  Morse,  President,  with  seven  Vice-Presidents, 
one  for  each  ward  in  the  city;  H.  C.  Barnes,  Secretary,  Elisha  Trowbridge, 
Treasurer. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


11 


THE  PREBLE   HOUSE. 

Fronting  on  Congress-street,  just  where  half-a-dozen  thoroughfares  come 
together  in  the  very  heart  of  the  town,  with  its  one  hundred  and  seventy-six 
rooms ;  just  re-fitted  from  attic  to  cellar,  and  manned  with  colored  waiters. 

The  transformation  of  Commodore  Preble's  private  dwelling-house  into  a 
superb  hotel,  was  the  work  of  General  Shepley,  and  Mr.  H.  N.  Jose,  another 
of  our  active  business-men,  who  means  to  be,  and  well  deserves  to  be,  a  million- 
iare.  It  is  now  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  M.  S.  Gibson  and  George  Waterhouse, 
with  a  reputation  worth  having. 

Originally  planned  by  an  Italian  architect,  and  built  for  the  late  Commodore 
Edward  Preble,  about  the  year  1806,  but  never  occupied  by  him,  nor  by  his 
family,  until  after  his  death,  it  was  properly  considered  at  one  time  as  among 


I'BEBLE  HOUSE. 

the  stateliest  of  all  our  private  habitations,  and  we  had  even  then,  not  a  few 
that  made  strangers  open  their  eyes,  when  they  passed  through  Portland. 

It  stood  alone,  fronting  on  Preble-street,  with  a  large  yard  on  Congress-street, 
and  a  garden,  full  of  magnificent  trees — after  they  had  got  their  growth, — run- 
ing  away  down  to  Cumberland-street.  While  occupied  by  Mrs.  Preble,  the  front 
was  only  about  one-third  of  what  we  have  now,  additions  being  built  on  each 
side,  as  well  as  on  the  rear. 

In  the  height  of  our  land  fever,  if  I  do  not  mistake,  or  soon  after,  the  house 
and  grounds  were  leased  by  Mr.  Jose  and  General  Shepley,  our  present  United 
States  Judge — another  of  our  sagacious,  clear-headed,  long-sighted  men,  who 
seem  specially  gifted  for  such  purposes,  and  converted  into  the  hotel,  as  it  now 
stands,  nourishing  and  well-known  everywhere. 


78  PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED. 

OUB  AUTHORS  —  D.   C.    COLESWORTHY, 

one  of  the  most  amiable,  persevering,  and,  on  several  accounts,  decidedly 
successful  of  our  writers,  who  are  counted  among  the  poets. 

But  much,  everything  perhaps,  will  depend  upon  the  definition  of  poetry. 
No  two  persons  ever  agree  upon  the  subject.  Poetry,  of  course,  may  be  serious 
or  playful  —  with  the  playfulness  of  old  age  or  youth — sublime  or  tender,  and 
therefore  questions  will  constantly  arise,  and  a  difference  of  opinion  prevail 
among  the  well-educated,  as  to  what  constitutes  poetry. 

Tried  by  one  of  these  towering  standards,  Colesworthy  is  not  a  poet  —  at 
best,  only  a  versifier.  But,  if  tried  by  another  and  somewhat  lower  standard, 
like  that  which  settles  the  rank  of  Dr.  Watts,  Wesley,  Mrs.  Barbauld,  or  Hannah 
Moore,  Colesworthy  deserves  the  reputation  of  a  poet. 

Some  of  his  little  pieces  are  tender,  touching  and  beautiful — and  of  a  char- 
acter to  be  remembered,  and  many  of  them  have  been  republished  abroad,  with 
evident  favor. 

To  him,  I  have  always  understood,  until  within  a  few  days,  we  owed  our 
Transcript,  a  family  newspaper  of  uncommon  merit,  now  in  the  hands  of  Mr. 
Elwell — but  Qf  late,  we  are  told  that  the  Transcript  originated  with  Mr.  Charles 
P.  Ilsley,  one  of  our  Portland  editors  and  story-tellers,  and  one  of  our  best. 

Soon  after  the  Transcript  appeared,  we  had  occasional  fugitive  pieces,  and 
after  awhile,  "  Opening  Buds,"  and'then,  year  after  year,  other  collections  of 
what  may  be  called  his  harvesting,  many  of  which  have  appeared  in  our  lead- 
ing religious  and  secular  papers  and  magazines;  and  just  now,  since  the  death 
of  his  wife,  with  whom  he  had  lived  forty  years  or  so  —  one  of  the  most  amiable 
women  of  her  day — he  has  begun,  we  hear,  another  series  which  will  soon  be 
issued. 

To  Mr.  Griffin  we  are  indebted  for  the  following  list  of  Colesworthy's  works: 

1.  Address  to  the  People  of  Color  in  Portland,  1838. 

2.  Happy  Deaths,  1840. 

3.  Touch  at  the  Times,  1840. 

4.  Chronicles  of  Casco  Bay,  1850. 

5.  Old  Bureau,  1861. 

6.  Group  of  Children,  1865. 

7.  Hints  on  Common  Politeness,  1867. 

8.  All  the  Tear,  1871. 

9.  Opening  Buds — omitted  by  Mr.  Griffin. 
10.     Common  Incidents,  also  omitted. 

And  he  has  now  in  preparation,  Master  Chase's  Scholars,  which  they  say  will 
soon  be  put  to  press. 

The  modesty  of  the  man,  his  exceeding  conscientiousness  and  gentleness  of 
temper,  which  endear  him  to  all  who  are  personally  acquainted  with  him,  will 
render  his  contributions  to  our  literature  acceptable,  come  how  and  when  they 
may,  and  we  may  hope  that  his  life  may  be  lengthened  to  a  ripe  old  age, 
and  his  great  usefulness  greatly  augmented. 


PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED.  79 

OUR  MUSICIANS — KOTZSCHMAE,   AGAIN. 

Since  the  very  brief  notice  of  this  exceedingly  modest  and  highly-gifted  artist, 
which  the  reader  has  already  passed  through,  we  have  been  able  to  gather 
quite  a  large  number  of  isolated  facts,  which  deserve  to  be  known  and  remem- 
bered, concerning,  as  they  do,  a  man  so  popular,  and  so  highly  esteemed,  not 
only  here,  but  in  our  larger  cities,  and  in  fact,  wherever  his  works  are  known. 

Being  almost  the  only  musical  composer  among  us,  who,  if  not  American  by 
birth,  has  been  here  from  his  youth,  or  early  manhood,  we  take,  and  have  a 
right  to  take,  especial  pride  in  his  manifestations.  And  now,  a  word  or  two  of 
his  doings  and  history  : 

Mr.  Kotzschmar  was  born  in  Finterwalde,  Prussia,  July  4th,  1829.  Hence, 
probably,  his  American  predilections,  and  general  independence  of  character 
and  thought. 

He  studied  composition,  it  appears,  with  that  greatly  celebrated  master, 
Julius  Otto,  of  Dresden,  and  came  to  this  country  in  November,  1848,  at  the 
age  of  only  nineteen,  therefore,  and  to  Portland,  July  1,  1849, — so  that  he 
opened  upon  us  in  all  the  glory  and  the  flush  of  early  manhood,  and  from  the  first, 
has  been  well  understood  and  warmly  encouraged  here. 

The  following  are  among  the  best  known  of  his  Portland  compositions : 

1.  Te  Deum,  in  F. 

2.  Te  Deum,  in  B  flat. 

ANTHEMS. 

1.  Rejoice  in  the  Lord ! 

2.  Deus  Misereatur. 

3.  Oh,  Lord!  Oh,  Lord! 

4.  Benedictus  in  E  flat. 

PIANO  PIECES. 

1.  Aurora  Borealis. 

2.  Arcturus. 

3.  Romance,  in  A  flat. 

4.  Magic  Top  Galop. 

5.  Trois  Mazurkas. 

He  has  also  had  charge  of  the  First-Parish  organ,  ever  since  April,  1851,  and 
has  had  uninterrupted  practice  meanwhile,  as  conductor  of  our  well-known  and 
somewhat  celebrated  Haydn  Association,  ever  since  it  sprang  into  life,  five 
years  ago. 

Such  being  a  part  of  the  labors,  and  such  the  result  of  what  has  been  effected 
by  this  amiable  enthusiast,  and  the  musical  reputation  of  our  people  being  so 
largely  dependent  upon  what  Mr.  Kotzschmar  has  already  achieved,  and  will, 
if  he  lives  long,  as  we  trust  and  believe  he  may,  hereafter  achieve,  in  the  musi- 
cal world,  we  are  sorry  that  we  cannot  give  him  a  page  or  two  more  in  this,  our 
little  Register  of  Illustrations. 

As  a  teacher  of  music,  let  us  add,  that  we  have  seldom  encountered  one  so 


80  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

faithful,  zealous  and  patient,  and  very  few  to  be  compared  with  him  as  a 
teacher. 

Full  of  quiet,  conscientious  enthusiasm,  and  overflowing  with  inward  music, 
where  music  is  wanted,  whether  solemn  or  playful,  whether  for  dance  or 
prayer,  he  never  disappoints  you,  and  never  troubles  the  ear,  or  the  heart. 

P.  S.  In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  we  have  among  what  the  author  himself 
may  regard  as  trifles — mere  ebullitions  of  the  hour  —  the  following: 

1.  Barcarole  Quintette. 

2.  Benedictus,  Sacred  Quartette, 

3.  When  Death  is  Coming  Near. 

4.  Merry  Christmas  Bells. 

5.  List,  my  Heart. 

6.  Come  forth  and  bring  your  Garlands. 

7.  Fairy's  Evening  Song. 

8.  Chocolate-Drop  Polka  Redowa. 

9.  A  Song  for  Easter-Day. 

Judge  by  these  of  what  the  man  is  capable. 

"From  grave  to  gay,  from  lively  to  severe,"  you  find  him  always  at  home, 
and  always  prepared. 

OUR  AUTHORS — MRS.    ELIZABETH   OAKSSIITH, 

decidedly  one  of  the  most  engaging  and  attractive  of  all  our  American 
writers. 

Widow  of  the  late  Seba  Smith,  originator  of  the  Major  Downing  letters, 
which  were  so  gloated  over  in  the  days  of  Andrew  Jackson,  and  so  shamefully 
imitated  and  plagarized  all  over  the  country,  she,  herself,  took  to  quite  another 
style  of  composition. 

After  some  prose  writings,  which  appeared  in  her  husband's  paper,  the 
Courier,  of  Portland,  and  others  which  were  issued  in  New  York,  while  her 
husband  was  a  colaborateur  in  the  Express,  this  gifted  woman  gave  birth  to  the 
Sagamore  of  Saco  and  to  her  Sinless  Child  —  a  poem  of  singular  merit,  and 
from  that  day  to  this,  we  find  her  constantly  writing  for  the  magazines  and 
newspapers,  and  occasionally  lecturing  upon  such  questions  as  Woman' s-Rights, 
and  Woman-Suffrage. 

What  she  may  be  doing  just  now,  it  were  hard  to  conjecture ;  but  this  we 
know,  that  she  cannot  be  idle,  and  whether  it  be  "the  night-mare  meanings  of 
Ambition's  breast,"  anxiety  for  independence,  or  a  desire  to  do  the  greatest 
possible  good  to  the  greatest  number  of  her  sex — who  are  in  bondage  without 
knowing  it — in  bondage,  not  only  to  their  corsets  and  millinery  and  dress- 
makers, and  to  the  fashions  of  the  day,  but  to  their  husbands,  and  sweet-hearts 
and  children,  we  may  be  sure  that  she  will  do  honor  to  her  sex,  and  go  far  to 
"  vindicate  the  ways  of  God  to  man." 

OUR  OPERA-HOUSE. 

Since  all  the  foregoing  was  in  type,  our  old  Music-Hall  has  been  taken  pos- 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


81 


session  of  by  Mr.  Ward,  with  a  fine  company,  and  what  may  be  considered  a 
large  company  for  such  a  population  as  we  have,  and  converted  into  an 
Opera-House,  which  opens  this  week,  and  promises  all  we  can  desire  in  the 
way  of  musical  demonstration,  for  the  multitude. 

P.  S.     It  was  opened  last  night,  Sept.  7th,  and  triumphantly,  with  a  crowded 
house,  and  a  general  outcry  of  admiration. 

STATE-STREET. 

Beautiful  and  picturesque  as  the  engraved  representation  of  State-street  is,  it 
can  give  the  stranger  no  just  idea  of  the  large,  stately  buildings,  and  princely 


LOOKING  DOWX  STATE  STREET. 

gardens,  the  Protestant,  Catholic,  and  the  State-street  churches  —  all  of  them 
being  hidden  by  the  trees,  a  double  row  of  our  native  elms,  with  here  and  there 
a  horse-chestnut  or  maple,  running  along  on  both  sides. 

The  street  is  one  hundred  feet  wide,  and  the  mansions,  with  here  and  there 
an  exception,  large  and  showy,  with  deep  gardens  in  the  rear. 

The  house  you  see  on  the  right,  stands  at  the  junction  of  Pine-street,  State- 
street,  New  State-street,  and  Congress-street,  and  has  but  lately  assumed  the 
appearance  it  now  wears,  having  fallen  into  the  hand  of  a  liberal  and  spirited 
merchant,  Mr.  Frederick  Storer — who  tore  out  the  whole  inside  of  what  was 
considered  a  very  handsome  house,  when  first  built,  forty  years  ago,  having  a 

6 


82  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

granite  basement,  of  ashlar,  with  trimmed  edges,  pressed-brick  and  balconies; 
and  re-constructed  another,  and  very  tasteful  building,  of  which  you  get  only  a 
glimpse,  though  enough,  perhaps,  to  justify  what  has  been  said  of  it. 

On  the  whole,  therefore,  State-street  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  hand- 
somest to  be  seen  anywhere,  either  in  this  country  or  over-sea. 

A  double  row  of  large  trees  running  nearly  the  whole  length  of  it,  on  both 
sides,  are  of  themselves  unlike  anything  we  meet  with  elsewhere.  And  then, 
if  you  stand  just  where  the  pictured-street  opens,  you  have  a  view  of  the  White- 
Mountains  on  your  right,  and  a  glimpse  or  suggestion  of  the  sea,  a  fringe  of  the 
Atlantic  on  the  left,  hardly  a  rifle-shot  away,  to  encourage  and  cheer  you  in 
your  path — in  short,  look  where  you  will,  you  are  sure  of  a  good  penny-worth. 

From  all  the  upper,  and  not  a  few  of  the  lower  windows  of  all  the  houses, 
you  have  a  view  of  the  sea,  of  Cape-Elizabeth,  and  the  numberless  islets  of 
Casco-Bay,  with  steamers,  large  ships,  and  fishing-craft,  coming  and  going  by 
scores,  and  often  by  hundreds,  when  the  skies  are  darkened  with  a  coming 
storm ;  and  everywhere,  on  every  side,  a  magnificent  panorama,  from  the  house- 
tops, unobstructed  along  the  whole  sweep  of  the  horizon. 

OUB  PRIVATE  MANSIONS  OB  DWELLING-HOUSES. 

A  large  number  of  these  are  of  such  a  character,  almost  princely  in  their  size 
and  appendages,  with  extensive  grounds,  large  gardens  and  out-buildings,  that, 
if  we  desire  to  do  Portland  justice,  they  must  not  be  overlooked. 

About  the  year  1806,  our  wealthiest  men — merchants,  mechanics  and 
lawyers — began  to  build  mansions  for  themselves  out  of  all  proportion  to  the 
size  of  the  town — mansions  which  have  been  divided  within  a  few  years,  and 
are  still  both  large  and  showy. 

Among  these  were  the  Arthur  McLellan-house,  on  High-street,  now  called 
the  Wingate-house,  though  occupied  by  the  widow  of  Mr.  Charles  Q.  Clapp,  a 
daughter  of  Mrs.  Wingate,  who  was  a  daughter  of  Maj.  General  Dearborn,  of 
revolutionary  renown.  And  then  we  had  the  Stephen  McLellan-house,  nearly 
opposite  on  High-street,  and  High-Sheriff  Hunne  well's  house,  on  State 
street,  which,  after  awhile,  came  into  the  possession  of  our  late  Chief-justice 
Mellen,  and  then  of  another  greatly  distinguished  fellow-citizen,  William  Pitt 
Fessenden,  and  now  belongs  to  his  son  William.  And  then,  there  was  the 
James  D.  Hopkins-house,  on  Danforth,  now  in  possession  of  Mr.  H.  P.  Storer, 
and  greatly  improved,  and  the  Joseph  Cross-mansion,  also  on  State-street, 
with  its  large  and  beautiful  garden,  which  underwent  a  variety  of  transforma- 
tions for  the  better,  while  belonging  to  the  late  Stover  Little,  Esquire,  and  is 
now  owned  by  Mr.  Cyrus  S.  Clark ;  and  the  two  large,  square,  frame-houses,  built 
by  the  two  Washburns,  house-carpenters  and  brothers,  one  on  York-street,  and 
another  on  Cumberland-street,  which  was  found  large  enough  for  two,  while 
the  late  Judge  Whitman  lived  there,  and  the  Preble-house  and  the  Matthew 
Cobb-house,  at  the  head  of  High-street,  and  some  others  we  have  no  room  for. 

But  these,  after  all,  were  but  old-fashioned,  roomy  houses,  without  archi- 
tectural pretensions,  though  some  had  porticos,  and  heavy  entablatures  after  a 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  83 

time,  as  they  changed  ownership,  and  not  to  be  compared  with  scores  of  private 
mansions  which  have  sprung  up,  as  of  themselves,  along  the  approaches  to 
Bramhall's-hill. 

There  is  not,  I  verily  believe,  so  many  separate,  large,  handsome  and  beauti- 
ful houses,  to  be  found  anywhere,  in  a  city  five  times  the  size  of  Portland,  as 
you  may  find  just  here,  and  along  the  crown  of  Bramhall.  In  fact,  one  gets 
puzzled  and  bewildered,  who  ventures  up  into  that  neighborhood,  in  the  even- 
ing, or  by  a  dim  light,  so  strange,  and  so  unlike  the  Portland  he  used  to  be  ac- 
quainted with,  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago. 

And  to  whom  are  we  indebted  —  mainly  indebted — for  these  improvements? 
It  is  but  simple  justice  to  acknowledge  that,  but  for  Mr.  J.  B.  Brown,  whose 
grounds,  buildings,  hedges,  gardens,  trees,  and  shrubbery,  are  but  the  growth 
of  a  few  years,  where  all  was  barrenness  and  hopeless  desolation — but  for 
this  remarkable  man,  we  never  should  have  had  this  accumulation  of  noble  — 
we  might  say  —  of  almost  princely  habitations,  clustered  along  the  brow,  and  en- 
circling the  whole  neighborhood  of  that  elevation,  being  set  in  the  very  centre 
of  a  magnificent  panorama,  stretching  from  horizon  to  horizon,  and  secured  from 
all  encroachment  and  obstruction  forever,  and  ever.  But  for  him,  looking  to 
what  the  land  was  —  a  deep,  sandy  soil,  covered  with  low  juniper-bushes,  or 
savin,  and  swampy  for  the  most  part,  with  not  a  tree  to  be  seen,  except  a  few 
elms,  in  what  was  called  the  Vaughan  Burial-Ground,  we  should  have  had 
either  no  buildings  at  all,  or  only  here  and  there  a  one-story  house  —  a  cucum- 
ber lodge,  or  a  make-shift. 

And  why  do  I  say  this?  Be  patient  with  me  for  a  few  minutes,  and  I  will  give 
you  my  reasons.  About  five  and  twenty,  or  perhaps  thirty  years  ago,  Mr. 
Brown  called  on  me  to  enter  with  him  upon  the  purchase  of  the  land  known 
as  that  belonging  to  the  Paine  heirs,  and  lying  all  about  the  top  of  Branihall's 
Hill.  I  had  bargained  for  a  large  portion  of  it  once,  in  the  height  of  the  land 
fever,  but  owing  to  a  law  we  had  at  the  time,  which  enabled  creditors  to  enter 
a  secret  attachment,  I  asked  for  a  guaranty,  and  was  offered  that  of  Mr.  Ma- 
son Greenwood,  a  man  of  large  property  at  the  time,  it  was  generally  believed, 
but  I  had  my  misgivings,  and  the  negotiation  fell  through,  just  in  time  to  save 
me  from  great  loss — for  I  had  planned  a  cluster  of  cottages  for  that  region — ow- 
ing to  the  sudden  and  hopeless  failure  of  Greenwood,  when,  after  a  thorough 
enquiry,  I  ascertained  that  the' land  was  all  under  secret  attachments  from  the 
first,  as  I  had  feared. 

I  told  Mr.  Brown  my  experience,  but  felt  obliged  to  decline  his  proposition ; 
having  in  fact,  too  many  irons  in  the  fire  just  then,  Cape-Cottage,  and  three  or 
four  granite,  syenite  and  gneiss-quarries,  among  the  number,  though  advising 
him  to  go  into  it  forthwith. 

Whereupon,  Mr.  Brown,  who  was  never  disheartened,  after  having  made  up 
his  mind  to  a  great  undertaking,  adventured  alone,  and  has  already  realized  a 
large  fortune  by  it,  for  which  he  deserves  our  most  hearty  thanks  and  ac- 
knowledgments, since  he  has  wholly  changed  that  part  of  the  town,  and  made  it 
impossible  for  the  neighborhood  to  be  dishonored,  or  belittled,  by  cheap  trump 


84  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

ery  dwelling-houses,  or  market-garden  lodges,  or  tumble-down  shanties. 

About  this  time,  it  was,  while  we  were  talking  over  the  cost  of  living 
and  our  household  expenses,  and  about  my  own  carriage  and  horses,  I 
asked  him  why  he  did  not  set  up  a  carriage,  instead  of  whisking  about  in  "a 
one  hoss  shay,"  to  which  he  replied,  showing  it  was  not  so  much  the  expense 
that  deterred  him,  though  I  had  found  it  cost  me  about  as  much  as  it  would  to 
support  a  small  family,  as  that  he  didn't  like  to  set  people  talking.  And  yet, 
within  a  few  years,  this  very  man,  established  a  vast  sugar-house,  which  cost  him, 
as  I  think  he  told  me  himself,  over  ten  thousand  dollars  of  dead  loss  the  first 
year,  owing  to  the  stupidity  or  ignorance  of  the  principal  overseer,  who  had 
been  warmly  recommended  to  him,  though  he  prospered  greatly  afterward,  up 
to  the  time  of  the  fire ;  became  the  President  of  our  largest  savings-bank,  and 
of  at  least  half  a  dozen  wealthy  or  charitable  corporations,  the  largest  property 
holder  among  us,  I  dare  say,  a  large  stockholder  in  our  best  railways,  not  a  few  of 
them  having  originated  with  him  and  some  other  full-blooded  associates,  having 
blocks  and  stores  in  all  our  business  centres,  and  a  banking-house  now  in  full  op- 
eration, with  his  two  sons,  Philip  and  John,  for  partners,  both  business-men,  and 
both  sure  to  be  distinguished  hereafter  in  the  business-world,  as  John,  the  gen- 
eral, was,  in  our  late  war,  where  he  was  shot  through  the  body,  or  both  legs,  while 
in  the  trenches  or  reconnoitering,  and  taken  off  the  field  to  die  a  most  painful 
death,  as  they  feared.  But  he  disappointed  them.  And  now,  the  father  pays  a 
tax  of  twenty  thousand  dollars  on  his  individual  account,  and  wholly  apart 
from  his  co-partnership,  as  a  banker.  So  much  for  indomitable  perseverance, 
and  what  other  men  call  rashness,  or  wilfulness. 

But  all  these  large  houses,  though  much  admired  at  the  time — what  were 
they  in  comparison  with  what  we  now  see  covering  the  top,  and  all  the  hand- 
somest approaches  to  Bramhall's-Hill? 

Anybody  familiar  with  Portland  but  a  few  years  ago,  would  be  likely  to  get 
bewildered,  after  passing  up  Pine-street,  or  through  the  Arsenal-grounds  —  a  per- 
fect labyrinth — on  his  way  to  Mr.  Brown's  charming  villa,  with  its  liberal  out- 
lyings,  broad  carriage  and  foot-paths,  large  trees  and  beautiful  shrubbery,  gar- 
dens and  out-buildings,  with  cast-iron  statuary  about  the  entrance ;  and  a  collec- 
tion of  capital  pictures  within,  he  having  the  only  gallery  in  our  part  of  the 
world.  And  here  we  may  as  well  mention,  that  among  his  largest  and  best  pic- 
tures is  one  by  Mr.  Ropes,  who  published  a  fine  little  affair  on  perspective, 
and  went  from  Portland  as  a  taker  of  daguereotypes,  which  were  altogether 
superior  to  the  common  average  of  the  day,  and  is  now  well  established  in  Italy 
as  a  landscape-painter ;  and  another  by  Tilton,  about  eight-and-a-half  feet  by 
four,  giving  us  a  view  of  the  Lago  di  Garda,  with  a  castle,  fortress,  a  small 
encampment  of  soldiers,  a  group  of  well-arranged  figures,  and  a  fine  view  of  the 
beautiful  lake  itself. 

Since  then,  Deering-street  has  been  opened,  and  is  now  lined  on  both  sides 
for  a  long  way,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  perhaps,  with  handsome  houses  of  a 
moderate  size  and  moderate  elevation ;  and  we  have  also,  in  different  parts  of 
the  town,  a  hundred  or  two  of  larger  pretensions,  like  the  following : 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


85 


The  Morse-House  on  Danforth  and  Park-streets,  built  of  brown  free-stone, 
and  somewhat  of  the  Italian  type,  but  very  handsome,  very,  and  a  building 
that  would  be  a  credit  to  any  city ;  and  others  we  have  no  room  for. 

And  here,  it  may  be  but  fair  to  mention  a  very  agreeable  fact  in  the  history  of 
this  gentleman.  Years  ago,  when  he  was  but  a  young  man,  just  entering  upon 
life,  and  living  in  North- Yarmouth,  the  story  goes,  that,  happening  to  see  a  low, 
unpretending  cottage,  with  large  trees,  belonging  to  the  Paine  heirs,  just 
where  the  beautiful  mansion  referred  to  now  stands,  he  announced  his 
intention  of  owning  that  property  at  some  future  day ;  since  then,  he  went 
to  New  Orleans,  got  possession  of  a  magnificent-hotel  there,  made  quite  a  for- 


LOOKING  UP  MIDDLE-STKEET  FROM  THE  POST-OFFICE. 

tune,  bought  the  property  he  had  set  his  heart  upon,  tore  away  the  cottage,  and 
built  up  the  chateau  at  a  cost  of  nearly  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  —  more 
or  less. 

UP   MIDDLE-STKEET,   FROM  THE   POST-OFFICE. 

Here  we  have  one  of  the  most  effective  and  satisfying  views.  Just  compare 
it  with  Middle-street,  before  the  fire,  and  you  will  see  at  a  glance,  how  much  we 
have  to  be  thankful  for,  and  how  much  to  justify  our  conscientious  bragging. 

Instead  of  our  low,  brick  and  frame  stores  of  the  ugliest  type,  irregular  and 
slouching,  with  here  and  there  a  granite-front  for  the  basement-story,  we  have 
what  you  see  in  the  plate,  large,  high,  and  very  handsome  blocks,  with  hotels 
and  boarding-houses  of  Albert-stone,  marble,  and  gneiss,  of  the  finest  texture 
and  choicest  color. 


86  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

OTJR  WRITERS  —  WILLIAM   WILLIS. 

One  of  the  most  patient,  conscientious  and  vnfatiguable  of  our  Portland 
Literati.  The  following  list  from  Griffin's  "Press  of  Maine,"  a  work  of  great 
value,  will  give  an  idea  of  what  Mr.  Willis  had  but  begun  to  do. 

1.  Extract  from    Rev.   Thomas  Smith's  Journal,  from  1720,  to  1788 — 
appeared  in  1821,  and  again  in  1849. 

2.  Journals  of  Thos.  Smith  and  S.  Deane,  with  a  brief  outline  of  Portland 
history,  1849. 

3.  Introductory  Address  before  the  Maine  Historical  Society,  1855-57. 

4.  History  of  Portland  from  1832,  to  1804—928  pp.,  second  edition  1865  — 
Bailey  &  Noyes. 

5.  History  of  the  Law,  the  Courts  and  the  Lawyers  of  Maine,  712  pp.  1863. 

6.  Language  of  the  Abnaki  Indians.    Maine  Historical  collection,  IV. 

7.  Editor  of  the  first  six  volumes  of  Maine  Historical-Society  Eeports. 

8.  Memoir  of  Stephen  Longfellow. 

9.  Scotch-Irish  Immigration  to  Maine.     Pamphlet. 
10.     Memoir  of  Henry  Jenks. 

Regarded  not  so  much  as  an  historian,  but  simply  as  a  trustworthy  annalist, 
wholly  destitute  of  imagination,  with  not  a  few  strong  prejudices,  which  he 
could  not  always  forget,  or  smother,  Mr.  Willis  deserves  our  heartiest  com- 
mendation not  only  for  what  he  has  done,  but  for  what  he  has  failed  to  do. 

OL'R  AUTHORS — REV.    ASA   CUMMIXGS,   D.    D. 

One  of  the  very  best  among  our  old-fashioned  theologians,  preachers  and 
writers.  To  him,  we  are  indebted,  after  the  Rev.  Asa  Rand,  and  Rev.  John  L. 
Parkhurst,  that  is  from  1826  to  1855,  after  which  it  passed  into  the  hands  of 
Mr.  C.  A.  Lord,  and  then  into  those  of  the  present  editor,  Mr.  Snow,  for  the 
larger  part  of  the  forty  years  which  have  distinguished  the  career  of  our  Christian 
Mirror.  Conscientious  and  fearless,  bold  and  generous,  the  Rev.  Asa  Cum- 
mings  fought  the  battles  of  temperance — of  "temperance  in  all  things," — and 
of  general  reform  through  the  whole  of  a  long,  laborious  life.  One  little  fact 
within  my  personal  knowledge  may  give  a  better  idea  of  the  man's  inward 
character,  than  whole  pages  of  newspaper  eulogy.  We  had,  many  years  ago,  a 
teacher  of  our  young  ladies'  High-school,  Solomon  Adams.  Having  run 
ashore,  he  sold  his  house,  a  handsome,  four-story,  brick  house,  on  Spring 
street,  to  Dr.  Cummings,  at  what  was  then  felt  and  acknowledged  to  be  a 
liberal  price,  and  removed  to  Boston.  Getting  rather  embarassed  there,  he 
was  looking  round  one  day  to  raise  quite  a  sum  for  immediate  relief.  He 
succeeded  so  far,  that  all  he  had  to  do  was  to  step  into  the  lender's  office  and 
take  the  money.  Failing  to  do  so,  the  gentleman  called  on  Mr.  Adams  to  ask 
why  he  had  not  called  for  the  money.  "Well,"  said  Mr.  A. —  "I  have  been 
able  to  do  without  it,  providentially,"  and  then  "he  up  and  told  him"  how  it  hap- 
pened. He  said  that  Dr.  Cummings  had  dropped  in  just  when  he,  Mr.  A.,  was 
about  going  for  the  money  promised  him,  and  after  saying  that  he  had  just  got 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  87 

through  with  the  examination  of  his  books  for  the  last  year,  and  had  found 
himself  better  off  than  he  expected,  and  therefore  proposed  to  pay  Mr.  Adams 
quite  a  sum  above  what  they  had  bargained  for,  to  the  satisfaction  of  both  at 
the  time  of  the  purchase;  to  this  Mr.  Adams  demurred,  but  Dr.  Curnmings 
persisted,  and  the  money  was  actually  paid  over,  to  the  unspeakable  relief  of 
Mr.  Adams,  upon  the  ground  that  the  original  cost  of  the  house  had  been  much 
more  than  the  price  agreed  upon  between  them,  and  agreed  upon  without 
haggling  or  chaffing ;  but  then  it  had  fallen  upon  his  hands,  and  was  now 
coming  up  again.  What  say  you  to  that,  Christian  brethren  ? 

While  editing  the  Christian  Mirror,  most  faithfully  and  successfully,  so  that 
it  found  its  way  all  over  the  country,  Dr.  Cummings  found  time  to  prepare  a 
memoir  of  Dr.  Payson,  with  a  selection  of  his  sermons,  in  three  volumes,  octavo, 
six  hundred  pages  each,  which  appeared  in  1849. 

Also,  a  memoir  of  Marion  L.  Hurd,  of  Fryeburg  — 18  mo.,  and  a  sermon  de- 
livered before  the  Maine  Missionary  Society,  June,  1828. 

He  died  in  1856,  aged  65,  on  his  way  from  California,  whither  he  had  been 
*o  visit  a  daughter,  and  was  buried  in  the  deep  seas,  two  days  out  of  Aspinwall. 

OUR  WRITERS —  CHARLES   S.    DAVIES. 

Without  being  professional  authors,  or  volumnious  writers,  we  have  had 
among  us — and  have  now — not  a  few  men  of  decided  character  in  literature, 
who,  like  our  friend  Davies,  wrote  just  enough  to  make  you  wish  he  had  been 
somewhat  less  devoted  to  the  law,  and  somewhat  more  given  to  literature. 
With  a  large  store  of  scholarship,  and  a  severe  classical  taste,  Mr.  Davies 
might  have  left  something  behind  him  worth  treasuring  as  a  book,  instead  of  two 
or  three  pamphlets.  But  he  gave  an  address  at  Fryeburg,  on  the  first  cen- 
tennial celebration  of  LovelPs  Fight,  published  in  1825. 

And  a  discourse  on  the  death  of  Adams  and  Jefferson,  1826,  and  an  address 
before  the  Alumni  of  Bowdoin-college,  1835. 

OUR  WRITERS  — REV.    SAMUEL  DEAXE,   D.    D. 

This  old-fashioned,  square-trotting  theologian  of  other  days,  to  whom  we  are 
indebted  for  the  Diary  of  Rev.  Thomas  Smith,  his  immediate  predecessor, 
known  as  "Smith's  Journal,"  gave  being  to  the  New-England  Farmer,  in  1790, 
332  pages,  8  vo.,  and  to  a  sermon  at  the  funeral  of  that  predecessor,  in  1795, 
8vo. 

OUR  WRITERS  —  MRS.    CLARA  BARNES  MARTIN, 

daughter  of  the  late  Phineas  Barnes,  a  distinguished  lawyer  and  well-known 
editor,  of  whom  a  brief  notice  will  be  found  in  another  part  of  this  record,  has 
given  to  the  people  a  charming  little  book,  about  Mount  Desert  and  its  pictur- 
esque surroundings,  published  by  Loring,  Short  &  Harmon. 
Also,  the  Little  Nortons,  a  very  clever  child's  book. 


88  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Also,  the  History  of  a  Cat,  unhoused  by  our  great  fire ;  full  of  sprightliness 
and  playfulness. 

Mrs.  Martin  is  an  exceedingly  pleasant  writer,  and  must  not  be  satisfied 
with  these  outlays :  We  have  a  right  to  ask  more  of  her. 

CARBIAGE-DKIVES    AROUXD    PORTLASTD. 

Go  where  you  will  in  this  country,  or  over-sea,  and  you  will  not  often  meet 
with  a  greater  variety  of  pleasant,  romantic  and  picturesque  carriage-drives, 
than  about  this  greatly  undervalued,  greatly  misunderstood,  if  not  greatly  mis- 
represented Portland. 

If  you  take  the  easterly  sea-shore  road,  and  keep  along  by  the  old  Falmouth 
coast  line,  always  in  full  view  of  Casco-Bay,  with  its  numberless  islands,  you 
will  find  such  pictures  at  every  turn,  as  are  not  likely  to  be  forgotten  by  a  lover 
of  landscape-scenery,  associated  with  marine-views;  and  along  this  road 
through  Cumberland,  running  to  Freeport,  North  Yarmouth,  Brunswick  and 
Bath,  you  may  ramble  for  half  a  day,  or  a  day,  with  a  certainty  of  being  abun- 
dantly rewarded — not  that  there  are  any  mountains  or  cataracts,  castles  or  vol- 
canoes to  be  met  with,  or  anything  indeed,  but  the  calm,  tranquil  and  sooth- 
ing associations  of  untroubled  country  life,  with  the  open  sea  and  the  blue 
heavens  to  lure  you  along  your  way. 

Or,  if  you  prefer  it,  you  can  take  the  bridge-road  to  Cape-Elizabeth  and  go 
"rioting  in  foam  and  spray,"  along  the  rugged  cliffs  that  run  from  Cape-Cot- 
tage to  the  first,  or  head-light,  and  thence  to  the  two-lights,  and  so  onto  Front's 
Neck,  Old-Orchard  and  Orchard-Beach,  where  a  swift  succession  of  unfinished, 
rough  pictures  —  or  sketches  —  burst  upon  you  at  every  stopping  place,  in  decid- 
ed contrast  to  the  scenery  along  Falmouth  foreside. 

Or,  you  may  launch  away  toward  Saccarappa,  Gorham,  or  Deering,  or  Old 
Falmouth,  abounding  with  huge  trees,  and  pleasant  water-courses,  and  sunny 
lakelets,  with  here  and  there  a  primeval  wilderness,  which  might  well  be  mis- 
taken for  a  park  —  a  nobleman's  park  perhaps  —  like  that  of  the  Deering-woods, 
out  of  which  you  emerge,  all  at  once,  into  the  city  of  Portland  itself. 

In  a  word,  go  which  way  you  will,  out  of  town,  or  toward  the  country,  or  the 
islands,  your  horses'  heads  will  be  sure  to  lead  you  into  something  out  of  the 
common  way,  and  well  worth  seeing,  though  they  may  not  lead  you  into  any 
outburst  of  extravagant  enthusiasm. 

Rocks  and  woods,  and  tinkling  rivulets,  pretty  good  farms  and  farm-houses, 
and  a  rough  landscape,  with  here  and  there  a  magnificent  elm,  or  huge  oak,  or 
a  cluster  of  birches,  sumachs,  and  black  cherry-trees,  and  a  great  variety  of  ce- 
dars, pines,  hemlocks,  with  stone-walls  half-buried  in  roses,  overrun  with  wild 
vines,  and  flanked  with  golden  rods,  which  Salvator-Rosa  himself  would  not 
disdain  to  deal  with,  even  though  he  were  mustering  his  banditti,  and  bringing 
out  the  masses  of  rock,  as  if  they  were  about  falling  upon  you. 

But  a  brief  description  is  hardly  worth  remembering,  and  we  have  no  time 
for  more ;  come  and  judge  for  yourself. 

And  then,  if  you  are  not  satisfied,  and  want  something  to  startle  and  aston- 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


89 


ish,  just  run  up  to  the  Notch  of  our  White-Mountains,  and  see  if  that  will  not 
make  you  catch  your  breath :  or  along  the  valley  of  the  Saco,  toward  the  Fran- 
conia  treasure-house  of  rich  minerals,  and  thence  —  anywhere  —  into  New 
Hampshire,  Vermont,  or  the  Canadas,  and  learn,  perhaps  for  the  first  time, 
that  you  have  lived  to  some  purpose,  and  have  no  time  to  lose,  if  instead  of  go- 
ing abroad,  you  are  disposed  to  get  acquainted  with  the  wonders  and  glories  of 
your  own  great  country.  We  have  a  plenty  of  Niagaras,  natural  bridges,  and 
mountain-gorges  waiting  to  be  discovered  and  talked  about. 

CONGRESS-SQUARE,  LOOKING  DOWN  HIGH-STREET. 

Among  the  most  beautiful  and  characteristic  features  of  Portland,  are  the 
forest-avenues ;  long,  wide  streets,  with  large  trees  on  both  sides,  over-arching 


LOOKING  DOWN  HIGH-STREET  FBOM  CONQRESS-SQUARE. 

the  distant  perspective,  and  losing  themselves  at  a  vanishing  point,  where  they 
seem  to  enter  an  aboriginal  wilderness.  Nothing  can  be  more  out  of  the  com- 
mon way ;  nothing  more  likely  to  mislead  a  stranger  into  the  belief  that  these 
are  openings  into  our  native  woods,  untroubled,  unvisited  and  unprofaned, 
although,  within  a  bow-shot  or  two  of  the  large,  handsome  buildings,  churches, 
and  houses,  you  may  see  on  both  sides  of  the  street. 

RAPID  GROWTH  OF  PORTLAND. 

Since  this  little  book  was  got  under  way,  the  following  items  have  come  to  my 


90  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

knowledge,  and  they  are  introduced  here,  partly  to  justify  our  extravagant 
expectations,  and  partly  to  quiet  the  forebodings  and  misgivings  of  our  Boston 
friends,  who  are  but  just  beginning  to  find  out  where  to  look  for  Portland  on 
the  map,  having  left  us  off  entirely  from  a  late  railroad  chart,  just  as  they  took 
the  liberty  of  closing  our  harbor  with  ice  every  year,  while  a  delegation  of  their 
business-men  were  laboring  to  convince  our  Canadian  brethren,  that  our 
Atlantic  &  St.  Lawrence  Railway  could  never  be  built,  or,  if  built,  would  never 
pay,  and  that  theirs — even  theirs — which  has  since  so  miserably  failed — was 
the  only  hopeful,  or  justifiable  route  of  connection  with  the  British  prov- 
inces. 

The  first  of  these  items,  it  will  be  seen,  refers  to  only  one,  out  of  the  many 
railways  now  in  operation  here,  coming  and  going  at  the  rate  of  sixty-five  trains 
a  day ;  and  a  marvelous  change  having  taken  place  in  the  opinions  entertained 
against  us  at  the  time  mentioned,  a  large  part  of  the  Maine-Central  stock  is 
now  held  by  Bostonians,  these  very  Bostonians  who  stood  so  much  in  our  way, 
and  refused  to  co-operate  with  us  in  our  day  of  trouble,  though,  we  and  our 
fathers  had  been  tributary  to  Boston  for  many  generations,  and  were  always 
her  best  customers. 

"In  the  one  hundred  and  thirty  towns,  off  the  line,  that  do  business  wholly 
or  in  part  over  the  Maine-Central  railroad,  are  thirty-six  million  dollars, 
nominal  value  of  property,  or  fifty-three  million  dollars,  real  value.  In  the 
fifty-eight  towns  traversed  by  the  road,  there  are,  one  hundred  and  one  million 
dollars  nominal,  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions  real  value  of  property; 
making  the  grand  total  two  hundred  and  three  million  dollars.  The  estimated 
real  value  of  the  property  of  the  entire  State  is  three  hundred  and  forty-eight 
millions." 

And  then  we  have  other  most  encouraging  items,  whereby  our  friends  of  the 
West  will  see  what  may  be  effected  hereafter,  from  their  business  relations 
with  Portland.  It  is  borrowed  from  one  of  our  city  papers — I  know  not  which, 
and  was  signed  Ontario. 

PORTLAND   AND   THE  WEST. 

"Messrs.  Baring  Brothers  &  Co.,  Glenns  and  other  bankers  of  England,  are 
buying  the  stock  of  the  Atlantic  &  St.  Lawrence-railroad.  Holders  of  this  stock 
can  sell  to  net  them  one  hundred  and  five  dollars  per  share.  The  writer  has 
received  this  price.  This  if*  indeed  a  very  great  rise  in  this  stock  —  many  sales 
having  been  made  as  low  as  fifty  dollars,  and  some  at  less.  This  important  rise 
and  the  very  large  expenditures  made  here  by  the  managers  of  the  Grand 
Trunk-railroad,  and  the  change  of  grade,  are  influencing  nearly  every  port 
in  England  to  share  in  the  business  growing  out  of  the  changes,  and  to  estab- 
lish lines  of  steamers  running  to  Portland,  connecting  with  this  great  road. 
The  managers  are  pressing  these  improvements  with  great  vigor,  so  that  there 
will  be  receiving  and  delivery  docks  for  seven  of  the  largest  class  of  steamers 
this  winter — cars  delivering  their  freight  directly  on  board  the  steamers. 
Some  of  the  steamers  coming  will  take  three  hundred  car-loads  of  provisions 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


91 


and  grain  — or  thirty  thousand  barrels.  Such  large  and  increasing  imports 
and  exports  will  necessitate  a  very  great  increase  of  water-front  in  a  few 
years,  extending  quite  to  Long-wharf.  The  managers  here  have  any  amount 
of  English  capital  for  whatever  expenditures  they  may  choose  to  make.  The 
last  steamer  brought  one  thousand  tons  of  English  steel  rails." 

EVERGREEN  CEMETERY. 

The  fashion,  which  has  been  growing  upon  our  people,  of  honoring  the  dead, 
and  making  their  resting-place  an  object  of  pilgrimage,  devout  and  sincere, 


ENTRANCE  TO  EVERGREEN-CEMETERY. 

ever  since  Mount-Auburn,  and  Greenwood,  began  to  flower  into  sorrowful 
attractions,  we  have  followed  here. 

While  the  buried,  whose  dust  had  been  gathered  from  the  beginning  of 
their  time  with  our  forefathers,  must  far  outnumber  the  living,  even  at  this 
day,  we  have  been  satisfied  with  two  narrow  enclosures,  one  at  each  end  of  the 
city:  The  first  and  earliest,  on  Munjoy-Hill,  having  been  over-crowded  for  a 


92  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

whole  generation,  while  the  second  has  but  begun  to  be  a  place  of  large  and 
quiet  repose,  where  the  "wicked  cease  from  troubling  and  the  weary  are  at 
rest." 

Of  late  however,  and  within  the  last  few  years,  we  have  begun  to  ask  our- 
selves if  such  hiding-places  were  altogether  creditable  to  us,  or  worthy  of  our 
progenitors  and  compatriots,  and  the  result  was  inevitable. 

We  have  secured  and  enclosed  over  one  hundred  acres  of  land  in  Deering, 
formerly  Westbrook,  within  two  miles  of  the  town,  full  of  attractions,  with 
trees,  waters,  plentiful  shrubbery,  and  the  varying  undulations  of  surface, 
which  render  natural  scenery  so  attractive.  We  have  laid  out  winding  paths 
and  carriage-roads,  with  hedges  and  monuments,  and  beautiful  enclosures,  of 
such  a  character,  that  the  grounds  have  become. a  great  attraction  to  visitors, 
and  are  often  crowded  with  strangers,  hour  after  hour,  toward  night-fall ;  and 
we  have  established  a  line  of  horse-cars  which  run  thither  regularly  every  half 
hour. 

The  receiving-lodge  is  ample,  and  must  continue  to  be  so  for  fifty  years.  The 
monuments  are  simple  and  striking  —  unostentatious  and  impressive.  To  Mr. 
Ramsey  and  Mr.  Fox,  we  are  largely  indebted  for  the  present  aspect  of  these 
grounds;  the  decorations,  flowers,  trees,  by-paths  and  shrubbery,  having  been 
carefully  and  systematically  planned  and  pressed  forward,  year  after  year,  as 
they  were  at  Mount- Auburn,  twenty-five  years  ago,  by  the  late  Gen.  A.  S.  Dear- 
born, who  seemed  to  have  a  sort  of  intuition  toward  such  work.  In  a  word, 
Evergreen  Cemetery  is  worthy  of  all  that  can  be  said  of  it,  and  our  God's-acre 
is  no  longer  a  place  to  be  ashamed  of,  or  sorry  for. 

OTJR  AUTHORS  —  MRS.    MARGARET   J.    M.    SWEAT. 

This  very  clever  woman,  who  continually  reminds  one  of  Mrs.  George  Grote, 
a  contributor  to  the  Westminister-Review,  as  Mrs.  Sweat  is  to  our  Xorth 
American-Review,  has  written  and  published  the  following  books. 

Ethel's  Love-Life  —  a  story  of  considerable  merit,  and  supposed  to  be  some- 
what auto-biographical. 

High- Ways  and  By-ways,  a  book  of  travels,  or  wanderings,  written  as  people 
of  good  sense  and  good  intentions  talk  in  this  world. 

And  not  long  ago,  Mrs.  Sweat,  who  is  by  constitution,  a  great  admirer  of 
George  Sands,  wrote  a  somewhat  "lengthy"  critique  on  that  modern  chevalier, 
D'Eon,  with  a  patient,  general  analysis  of  his  character,  for  which  in  due 
time  she  had  a  written  acknowledgement  from  the  lady  herself. 

THE  PORTLAND  COMPANY. 

This  large  and  prosperous  establishment  sprang  up  at  the  time  of  our  open- 
ing the  Atlantic  &  St.  Lawrence  Railway — now  getting  to  be  international, 
and  perhaps  inter-oceanic. 

They  turn  out  locomotive  engines  and  tenders,  marine  engines,  stationary  en- 
gines, sugar-mills,  cars,  etc.,  etc. ;  and  their  work  enjoys  the  highest  reputation 


POETLAND  ILLUSTRATED.  93 

throughout  the  land  —  orders  coming  from  a  distance  very  often,  and  some- 
times for  a  large  number  of  engines  or  cars. 


FIKST  PAKISH  CHURCH  —  UNITARIAN. 


So  called  from  having  been  the  first  church  —  or  meeting-house — planted 
here  — for  the  earliest  of  our  fore-fathers  had  a  horror  of  churches,  and  by  way 
of  distinction,  like  the  followers  of  George  Fox,  called  their  places  of  worship 


FIRST  PARISH  CHOBCH. 

Meeting-Houses,  just  as  they  do  to  this  day,  while  their  brethren  of  the  Epis- 
copal faith,  persist  in  denying  their  right  to  have  a  church,  without  a  bishop, 
anywhere,  as  something  preposterous  or  inconguous. 

Up  to  1661,  our  people  were  without  any  established  spiritual  guide,  and 
were  only  gathered  from  time  to  time,  under  a  decree  of  the  General-Court,  "en- 
joining them  to  meet  together  on  the  Lord's  day  for  their  mutual  edification 


94  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

and  furtherance  in  the  knowledge  and  fear  of  the  Lord,  by  reading  God's 
word,  by  the  labors  of  known  and  orthodox  divines,  singing  of  psalms  and 
praying  together,  or  such  other  ways  as  the  Lord  shall  enable  them,  till  the  fa- 
vor of  God  shall  so  far  smile  upon  them,  as  to  give  them  better  and  more  pub- 
lic means  for  their  edification." 

In  the  following  May,  these  prayers  were  answered,  and  they  had  a  preacher, 
"able  and  orthodox,"  but  he  soon  withdrew.  And  then  followed  two  Episcopa- 
lians, Gibson  and  Jordan,  and  then  there  came  another  decree  from  the  Gener- 
al Court  of  Massachusetts  in  July,  1869,  commanding  them  to  "seek  out  and 
provide  themselves  with  an  able  and  orthodox  minister,  by  the  20th  of  Septem- 
ber following,  under  a  penalty  of  fifty  pounds,"  to  be  paid  unto  the  ministry  of 
the  next  town,  yearly,  "during  their  destitution." 

Notwithstanding  all  this,  however,  the  first  meeting-house  had  been  set  up  in 
1740,  at  the  junction  of  Middle  and  India  streets  —  one  story — and  without 
glass ;  after  awhile  this  building  became  the  town-house,  and  then  a  school- 
house,  up  to  1774,  when  it  disappeared. 

In  1783,  after  the  war  of  Independence,  we  had  only  two  religious  societies, 
the  First  Parish  and  the  Episcopal  —  now  we  have  no  less  than  thirty-five,  and 
perhaps  forty,  if  we  count  all  associations  for  worship.  From  1719  to  1787,  we 
had  for  the  minister  of  our  First  Parish  Church,  the  Rev.  Thomas  Smith,  whose 
diary  we  have  been  so  familiar  with,  being  followed  by  that  of  Dr.  Samuel 
Deane,  his  coadjutor  and  successor  up  to  the  time  of  Dr.  Nichols. 

The  church,  as  originally  built,  was  of  the  long-established  inflexible  type, 
with  a  projecting  tower  and  belfry,  and  a  spire  sufficiently  conspicuous  to  ren- 
der it  an  object  of  interest  to  our  mariners  for  a  long  way  out. 

The  pews  were  high-backed,  so  that  you  could  only  see  the  top  of  your 
next  neighbor's  head  and  shoulders,  uncushioned  and  unwarmed,  but 
panelled,  so  that  upon  some  of  these  panels,  which  came  into  the  possession  of 
Charles  Codman,  when  they  broke  up  the  old  wooden-building  and  began  the 
present  stone-edifice,  many  of  his  most  beautiful  paintings  are  to  be  found,  for 
Charles  had  a  hankering  for  the  antique  and  the  mysterious,  and  was  not  only 
a  desperate  antiquarian,  but  a  great  enthusiast.  I,  myself,  happen  to  have  two 
of  these  landscapes,  on  the  old  First-Parish  panels. 

It  will  be  observed,  that  in  all  the  extracts  given  from  the  records  of  the  Gen- 
eral Court  of  Massachusetts,  and  from  the  proceedings  of  the  council,  the  First 
Parish  was  emphatically  and  vehemently  orthodox  —  whatever  may  then  have 
been  understood  by  that  cabalistic  word,  as  if  to  provide  against  one  at  least, 
of  the  many  inevitable  changes  that  occur  in  the  history  of  churches. 

But  Dr.  Deane,  it  was  said  and  believed  at  least,  was  no  better  than  an 
Armenian — was  that  orthodox? — and  Dr.  Nichols,  his  co-ad jutor,  was,  at  best, 
only  a  liberal,  conscientious  Unitarian,  and  now  we  have  Dr.  Hill,  one  of  the 
ablest  of  our  theological  corps,  a  downright,  unqualified  Unitarian,  of  a  still 
more  hopeful  type.  Are  these  orthodox  ?  And  the  church  where  they  minis- 
tered before  him,  and  where  he  now  ministers — is  lhat  orthodox?  and  if  not, 
pray  what  earthly  use  can  there  be  in  legislating  about  creeds,  dogmas,  and 
church  governments? 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  95 

The  present  rough-stone  edifice,  though  plain  to  ugliness,  occupies  the 
original  site  of  the  First-Parish  Church,  and  on  the  whole,  is  a  very  respect- 
able affair.  Built  of  a  gneiss,  quarried  in  the  neighborhood,  and  according 
to  the  ancient  type,  with  tower,  belfry  and  spire,  just  in  the  middle  of  the 
frontage  on  Congress-street,  what  have  we  to  complain,  of?  Is  it  not  most 
assuredly  orthodox  ? 

Thoroughly  and  beautifully  finished  within,  stuccoed  and  frescoed,  with 
comfortable  pews,  charmingly  upholstered,  and  with  the  conveniences  that 
drowsy  hearers  require,  the  First-Parish  Church  deserves  to  be  spoken  of 
with  bated  breath.  It  was  here  in  the  gallery  of  this  church,  that  our  Kotzsch- 
mar  began  a  career  as  organist,  which  has  continued,  without  interruption  for 
years.  The  music  of  the  old  First-Parish,  has  been  our  boast  from  about  the 
year  1808. 

At  the  time  of  Dr.  Nichols'  entry  upon  the  stage  here,  out  of  which  a  long 
and  bitter  controversy  grew  up,  such  was  the  amiable  temper  of  the  man,  and 
such  the  influence  of  his  quiet  example,  that  a  sudden  revolution  took  place  in 
some  of  oiir  daily  habits  —  in  horsemanship  for  example,  for  he  sat  in  the  sad- 
dle as  nobody  else  did,  in  our  part  of  the  world,  riding  with  straightened 
legs  of  portentous  length,  sticking  out  like  a  pair  of  compasses.  I  remember 
it  well,  and  I  remember  the  admiration  he  excited,  being  a  scholar  and  a 
gentleman,  just  out  of  a  theological  school,  and  fresh  from  the  riding-lessons 
of  Roleston. 

He  had  many  imitators,  even  among  those  who  had  no  patience  with  him  as 
a  preacher  of  unitarianism  and  brotherly  love ;  and  so  the  controversy  raged  at 
our  religous  meetings,  at  our  firesides,  and  by  the  street-corners.  How  strange ! 
Here  we  are,  all  of  us,  under  sentence  of  death,  and  only  waiting  for  execution, 
which  is  sure  to  come,  and  almost  always  unseasonably  and  unexpectedly — 
and  yet,  we  are  unforgiving,  intolerant  and  bigoted,  one  toward  another;  for- 
geting  that  "in  our  Father's  house  there  are  mansions;"  and  that  if  so,  there 
must  be  many  paths  leading  to  them.  Let  us  be  charitable  therefore,  and  be 
hopeful  to  the  last,  believing  and  trusting  in  Him,  whose  mercy  eudureth 
forever. 

JOHN  A.  POOK. 

Among  the  foremost  of  our  leading  men,  this  gentleman  deserves  a  more 
lengthened  notice  than  we  have  room  for. 

It  is  undoubtedly  true,  that,  to  no  man — not  even  to  our  friend  John  B. 
Brown,  does  Portland  owe  so  much  of  her  growing  prosperity,  and  hopefulness 
for  all  future  time,  as  to  John  A.  Poor ;  a  connection,  by  the  way,  of  Mr. 
Brown  himself,  a  brother  of  Mrs.  Poor  having  married  a  sister  of  Mrs.  Brown. 

Perhaps  it  may  not  be  considered  obtrusive  or  untimely,  if  we  should  give  a 
slight,  preliminary  sketch  of  Mr.  Poor,  showing  what  he  was  before  he  became 
a  rail-way  magnate,  and  how  he  managed  to  break  away  in  the  maturity  of  his 
strength,  while  practicing  law  at  Bangor,  with  great  success,  from  the  associ- 
ates of  his  early  manhood. 


96  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

I  had  never  known  Mr.  Poor,  personally,  beyond  what  I  gathered  in  a  hurried 
interview,  soon  after  I  had  opened  a  law-office  in  Portland,  about  1828  or  30  • 
but  one  morning,  while  I  was  on  my  way  to  one  of  our  newspaper-offices  in 
1836,  or  thereabouts,  with  an  article  in  favor  of  opening  Crooked-river,  for 
the  help  of  our  lumbermen  and  farmers,  I  was  accosted  by  a  tall,  handsome 
fellow,  who  called  me  by  name,  and  reminded  me  of  the  interview  referred  to 
and  of  some  advice  I  had  ventured  to  offer  him,  as  a  beginner  in  the  world. 

He  was  on  his  way,  he  said  to  the  U.  S.  District  Court-room,  where  he  pro- 
posed to  demonstrate  the  practibility  of  communication  with  Montreal,  by  rail. 
I  was  not  a  little  astonished  for  it  seemed  to  me  at  first,  that  he  had  overlooked 
— or  overtopped — the  White-Hills  to  begin  with.  But  I  went  with  him,  never- 
theless, and  waited  patiently  for  the  demonstration.  There  were  not  more 
than  a  dozen  or  perhaps  fifteen  of  our  leading  business-men  and  property 
holders  present,  among  whom  were  the  late  Judge  Preble,  who  became  presi- 
dent of  the  road,  Mr.  John  Mussey,  clerk  of  the  U.  S.  Courts,  and  one  of  our 
wealthiest  and  most  sagacious  land-holders,  and  I  believe,  though  I  am  not 
altogether  sure,  Mr.  J.  B.  Brown,  himself,  and  perhaps  Mr.  St.  John  Smith, 
his  old  partner  in  business. 

After  some  brief  questioning,  I  found  that  Mr.  Poor  was  perfectly  familiar 
with  the  whole  topography  of  the  route  he  had  in  view,  that,  in  some  way,  he 
had  been  connected  with  Greenleaf,  in  preparing  the  map  of  Maine,  a  lasting 
monument  of  the  author's  perseverance  and  scrupulous  accuracy. 

After  Mr.  Poor  had  finished  his  demonstration,  remarks  were  made  by  Judge 
Preble,  and  others,  but  were  not  of  a  character  to  lift  you  off  your  feet,  or  fill  you 
with  turbulent  enthusiasm.  Being  then  called  upon  to  say  a  word,  I  contented 
myself  with  declaring  it  as  my  opinion,  that,  if  Mr.  Poor's  calculations  and 
statistics  were  trustworthy,  the  road  was  in  fact,  already  built,  for  it  certainly 
would  burn  its  way  through. 

The  proper  steps  were  taken  without  delay,  public  meetings  were  called,  the 
newspapers  were  enlisted,  a  charter  was  obtained,  a  corporation  organized,  and 
such  liberal  subscriptions  obtained,  as  made  success  absolutely  certain,  though 
hindrances  did  occur,  and  some  disappointments.  Nevertheless,  the  Atlantic 
&  St.  Lawrence  rail-road,  now  the  Grand-Trunk,  with  all  its  manifold  con- 
nections, running  through  Upper  Canada,  was  established. 

Of  this  corporation,  Mr.  Poor  was  a  director,  and  ought  to  have  been  presi- 
dent. Then  followed  our  Portland-Company,  our  Gas-works,  and  the  Portland 
&  Oxford  rail-way,  all  inspired  by  the  foresight  and  perseverance,  of  Mr.  Poor. 
And  at  last,  not  long  before  his  death,  he  planned,  and  if  he  had  lived  but 
another  year,  would  have  consumated  one  of  the  most  magnificent  and  promis- 
ing rail-way  enterprizes  for  inter-oceanic  railway  communication,  whereby  the 
shortest  possible  route  between  the  Pacific  and  the  Atlantic,  would  have  been 
secured  forever,  without  the  possibility  of  interference.  To  this  end  the  Port- 
land, Rutland  Oswego  &  Chicago  Railway  was  chartered,  liberal  subscrip- 
tions obtained  all  along  the  road,  the  co-operation  of  other  railways  and  many 
large  communities  being  secured,  careful  surveys  and  estimates  were  made  and 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  97 

then  without  warning  or  notice,  the  grandly  organized  projector  of  this  mag- 
nificent enterprise  was  struck  with  sudden  death  —  and  all  action  was  suspend- 
ed, though  the  organization  is  kept  up,  and  will  continue,  we  may  be  sure,  till 
the  great  work  is  accomplished. 

OUR   CIIURCIIES  —  THE  PAYSOX-MEMOKIAI,. 

This  beautiful  building,  which  has  worked  its  way  up  out  of  the  ashes,  but 
slowly,  it  must  be  acknowledged,  since  the  great  fire,  considering  who  Dr.  Pay- 


PAYSOU    MEMOKIAL    CHUBCH 

son  was,  and  what  he  did  for  Portland  and  the  inhabitants  of  Portland,  ye  ar 
after  year,  as  a  preacher  of  Christ  crucified,  and  the  ambassador  of  God,  will 
&oon  be  completed,  with  spire,  turrets,  and  all  becoming  appendages,  we  hope 
and  believe. 

It  is  built  of  what  is  called  "the  white  Hallowell-granite,"  which,  by  the 
way,  is  no  granite,  but  gneiss,  the  mica  predominating,  so  that  the  quarry  lies 

7 


98  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

in  sheets  instead  of  being  amorphous,  like  all  true  granites.    Nevertheless,  it  is  • 
a  beautiful  material,  and  the  church  itself  a  handsome  and  impressive  affair — 
is  it  not  ?    Chaste  and  simple,  instead  of  being  over-loaded  with  preposterous 
ornamentation. 

Mr.  F.  H.  Fassett,  one  of  the  individuals  mentioned  before,  was  the  architect. 
And  here  it  may  be  worth  our  while  to  give  a  brief  extract  from  a  paper  enti- 
tled "the  Portland  Churches,"  which  appeared  last  April  —  but  where,  I  do 
not  know,  though  from  the  paging  259-264,  I  should  suppose,  in  some  of  our 
monthlies  or  quarterlies,  of  a  religious  type. 

"Though  settled  in  1682,"  says  the  writers,  "there  were  in  1718  but  twenty 
families  on  the  Neck,  now  Portland."  Then  appeared  "the  Rev.  George  Bur- 
roughs, a  graduate  of  Harvard,  who  preached  here  awhile,  but  was  not  actual- 
ly settled,  when  the  town  was  destroyed  in  1676.  He  had  a  grant  of  seven 
acres,  near  the  City -Hall,  and  in  1683  exchanged  it  for  a  lot  near  the  fort,"  — 
on  the  top  of  Munjoy-Hill,  probably,  for  no  other  fort  is  mentioned  in  our 
early  history.  "He  was  a  clergyman  of  unexceptionable  character," — and  so 
they  hung  him  up  for  witchcraft,  in  1692,  at  Salem. 

After  this,  we  had  the  Rev.  Thomas  Smith,  who  labored  in  the  ministry  from 
1727  to  1794  —  a  period  of  sixty-seven  years.  The  little,  unfurnished,  unglazed 
building,  heretofore  mentioned,  at  the  corner  of  Middle  and  India  streets, 
was  our  only  place  of  worship  up  to  1740,  when  another  edition  appeared  with 
windows,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  with  glass,  but  without  tower  or  steeple,  and  of 
course  without  fire,  outside  of  the  pulpit  —  "just  where  the  First  Parish  Church 
(Unitarian)  now  stands." 

In  Parson  Smith's  diary  of  Dec.  15th,  1782,  he  says  "more  horrid  cold  and 
windy.  I  could  not  stand  it,  but  dismissed  the  people  after  prayers  and  singing." 
"Probably,"  adds  the  writer,  who  seems  to  have  a  rich  vein  of  humor,  if  not  of 
priestly  sarcasm  in  his  make-up,  "his  prayer  was  shorter  than  \isual,"  for  at 
another  time  he  says  "I  had  extraordinary  assistance,  was  an  hour-and-a-half 
in  prayer  A.  M.,  and  above  an  hour  P.  M."  Really !  the  man  must  have  quite 
forgotten  that  we  are  not  heard  for  our  much  speaking — especially  in  such 
cold  weather,  when,  as  Dr.  Deane  testifies,  "the  water  for  baptism  froze  over." 
When  Mr.  Smith  was  first  settled,  the  population  of  the  Neck  was  but  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty,  and  his  salary  but  seventy  pounds  currency,  or  $233,  board  and 
fuel,  with  "contributions  of  strangers." 

In  1787,  a  new  society  was  formed,  and  according  to  Parson  Smith,  "the  sep- 
aratists voted  themselves  off," — Sept.  12th,  1787,  —  and  then,  October  3d,  he 
adds,  in  the  bitterness  of  his  soul,  "one  Kellogg  came  to  preach  to  the  separat- 
ists;" and  then  we  have  the  following  lugubrious  moaning:  "Hard  Times; 
no  money ;  no  business,  is  the  general  cry !"  And  once  more,  in  his  eighty-sixth 
year,  he  adds,  "poor  Portland  is  plunged  into  ruinous  confusion  by  the  separa- 
tion." 

And  yet  "poor  Portland"  survived  the  wrench,  and  continued  nourishing, 
more  and  more,  as  she  did  through  the  embargoes  and  non-importation  and 
non -intercourse  laws,  the  failure  of  our  United  States-bank,  and  the  wars  of 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  99 

1812,  and  1861,  and  the  great  fire,— when  she  was  utterly  ruined,  wrecked  and 
destroyed ;  but  then  Portland  can  bear  a  great  deal  of  ruining,  as  the  girl  said, 
when  questioned  about  a  third  or  fourth  complaint  for  being  ruined. 

"One  Kellogg"  was  from  South-Hadley,  and  served  as  a  drum-major  in  the 
battles  of  the  Revolution,  and  afterward  as  a  saw-mill  laborer,  while 
working  his  way  up  through  Dartmouth-College.  His  boy  Elijah,  the  au- 
thor, who  has  done  so  much  for  other  boys  —  and  we  might  hope  for  fathers, 
also,  though  not  in  the  same  way —  happening  to  express  a  decided  belief  that 
Hercules  had  done  more  good,  killing  dragons  and  cleaning  stables,  than  Dod- 
drige  ever  did,  with  his  "old  Rise  and  Progress,"  the  father  hurried  off  to  church 
and  requested  prayers  for  the  young  reprobate.  "The  readers  of  the  quarter- 
ly" —so  then,  it  was  the  quarterly;  but  what  quarterly? —  "are  familiar  with 
the  sequel,"  continues  the  writer.  "His  fiery  nature  was  changed,  and  he  yet 
lives  to  preach  and  write  books  for  the  boys." 

The  separatists,  or  second  church,  was  first  gathered,  fifteen  members  all 
told,  in  the  north  school-house,  near  the  burial  ground,  Munjoy,  and  then  they 
removed  to  the  court-house,  which  stood  on  Exchange-street,  half-way  up  from 
Middle  to  Congress,  and  then,  their  church  became  a  soap-factory,  now  stand- 
ing on  Green-street,  and  fulfilling  its  mission  better,  it  may  be,  than  by  using 
fuller's  earth.  The  society  was  incorporated  March  17th,  1788.  On  Sunday, 
Sept.  28th,  1788,  the  new  building  on  Middle-street,  represented  by  a  distant 
view,  as  you  see  it  on  page  15,  was  opened,  temporary  seats  being  used,  till  the 
pews  could  be  got  ready.  On  the  following  Thursday,  Mr.  Kellogg  was  ordained. 
Mr.  Willis  says  —  and  Mr.  Willis  was  a  Unitarian — that  "the  ardent,  earnest 
style  of  young  Kellogg,  so  different  from  the  tame  and  quiet  preaching  to  which 
they  had  been  accustomed,  aroused  the  whole  community,  and  well  nigh  pros- 
trated the  old  society." 

"Mr.  Kellogg  owned  a  part  of  Munjoy,  and  about  eighty  years  ago,  gave  the 
first  impulse  to  that  taste  for  planting  trees,  which  made  Portland  the  forest 
city."  But  where?  Not  on  Munjoy,  most  assuredly. 

In  1807,  the  Rev.  Edward  Payson,  of  whom  we  have  all  heard  so  much,  and  to 
whom  the  world  is  so  much  indebted,  both  abroad  and  at  home,  though  he  was 
always  at  open  war  with  the  world,  the  flesh,  and  the  devil,  giving  no  quarter, 
and  asking  none,  was  ordained  as  colleague  of  Mr.  Kellogg,  Dec.  16,  1807,  and 
from  Dec.  4,  1811,  was  sole  pastor  of  the  church,  after  the  expulsion  of  Mr. 
Kellogg,  up  to  Oct.  22,  1827,  when  he  died  at  the  age  of  47,  not  having  lived 
out  half  his  days,  though  he  had  done  the  work  of  more  than  a  long  life- 
time, and  left  a  name  above  every  other  name  among  us. 

Then  we  had  the  Rev.  Bennett  Tyler,  late  president  of  the  East- Windsor 
Seminary,  a  very  sound,  able,  and  thoroughly  orthodox  theologian,  of  the 
Jonathan  Edwards  type,  and  then  the  Rev.  Joseph  Vaill,  D.  D. — another 
earnest,  able,  and  reasonably  zealous  man ;  and  the  Rev.  Jonathan  B.  Condit, 
D.  D.,  of  Auburn  Theological  Seminary,  N.  Y. —  another  of  that  more  than 
Macedonian  phalanx,  who  held  the  field  against  all  gainsayers,  with  vizors 
closed  and  lance  in  rest,  up  to  the  last  day  of  his  ministering.  And  then,  the 


100  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

Rev.  J.  J.  Carruthers,  who  was  installed  Aug.  9,  1846 — a  Scotchman,  once 
a  missionary  in  Russia — who  must  have  drawn  in  with  his  mother's  milk,  the 
very  quint-essence  of  that  sublime,  though  terrible  faith,  which  made  John. 
Knox  what  he  was ;  for  though,  neither  a  fanatic  nor  a  bigot,  nor  even  very  in- 
tolerant, he  never  temporizes,  nor  qualifies  what  he  has  to  say,  but  goes 
straight  to  the  mark,  like  a  thunderbolt  —  moving  upon  the  enemy's  works 
with  a  perpetual  bayonet  charge,  at  double-quick. 

In  1825,  a  colony  was  thrown  off,  to  constitute  our  Third  Church;  in 
1831,  fifty-seven  members  were  organized  for  the  High-street  church ;  in  1835, 
the  Abyssinian,  or  Fourth  Congregational-church,  Newbury-street,  was  formed 
by  the  colored  members  of  the  Second  church.  In  1852,  the  members  from  the 
three  elder  churches,  were  organized  into  the  State-street  church ;  in  1840,  the 
Bethel-church  was  formed ;  in  1858,  the  St.  Lawrence-street  church ;  in  1869, 
the  Plymouth,  of  the  Third  and  Central,  and  in  1873,  the  Williston — so  that 
Congregationalism  here  has  yielded  abundant  fruitage,  without  having  been 
watered  with  the  blood  of  martyrs,  or  scorched  by  the  fires  of  persecution  — 
for  which  God  be  thanked. 

On  the  night  of  our  dreadful  fire  of  July  4,  1866,  the  Bethel,  the  Second,  and 
the  Third-Parishes,  lost  their  houses  of  worship,  and  no  Congregational  place 
of  assembly  was  left,  in  the  central  part  of  the  city.  On  the  13th,  following 
the  fire,  the  Second-church  and  society,  were  offered,  and  forthwith  accepted,  a 
home  in  the  State-street  church,  until  they  could  set  up  another  house  for 
themselves.  The  pastor  and  more  than  sixty-five  families  of  the  parish,  had 
lost  their  houses  and  homes,  the  pastor  himself  being  dangerously  ill  at  the 
time.  Then  followed  a  sore  trial.  The  insurance  was  almost  entirely  lost,  by 
the  failure  of  a  local  office ;  and  the  corner-stone  of  a  new  building  was  not 
laid  until  July  4,  1868. 

"By  the  sale  of  the  old  site,"  continues  our  authority,  "now  surroxuided  with 
warehouses  and  stores ;  by  local  subscriptions  and  donations,  and  by  generous 
contributions  from  abroad,  and  about  $10,000  collected  by  the  pastor,  the  socie- 
ty have  been  enabled  to  put  up  a  substantial  brick-building,  with  a  gneiss 
front,  secured  at  a  smaller  cost  than  one  of  pressed-brick,  and  free-stone 
facings.  The  name  fixed  upon  at  last,  is  that  which  it  now  bears,  The  Pay- 
son-Memorial  Church." 

"Had  the  pastor's  health  permitted  a  continuance  of  his  labors,  in  collecting 
funds  for  the  completion  of  this  undertaking,  the  whole  amount  might  have 
been  procured."  So  says  the  writer,  of  whom  we  borrow  these  details. 

"Bonds  for  $12,000  have  been  issued,  to  run  twenty  years.  This  cov- 
ers all  arrearages ;  and  $10,000  more  to  be  realized  from  the  sale  of  pews,  it 
is  believed,  will  be  sufficient  for  completing  the  house,  making  the  whole  cost 
$75,000. 

"There  will  be — indeed  there  are  now — seats  for  1200  in  134  pews  and  gal- 
leries, two  walls  and  two  side  aisles ;  the  ceiling  is  34  feet  above  the  floor ;  the 
house  itself,  73x90  feet,  from  which  two  towers  project,  one  eighty  feet  high, 
and  the  other  terminating  in  a  beautiful  lancet  spire,  175  feet  high,  with 


PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED. 


101 


gables  surmounting  the  bell-tower.  There  are  three  entrances,  one  central,  and 
one  from  each  tower.  The  facade  is  very  beautiful ;  the  two  arcades  of  five 
arches,  the  tower,  17  feet  high,  and  the  upper,  crowned  with  a  moulded  cor- 
nice, supported  by  a  corbel  course,  are  surmounted  by  a  foliated  cross,  77  feet 
from  the  ground. 

OUR  CHURCHES  —  THE  FIRST  BAPTIST. 

This  handsome  building  stands  at  the  junction  of  Congress  and  Wilmot-streets, 
among  a  large  cluster  of  public-buildings  worthy  of  attentive  consideration,  and 
opposite  Lincoln-Park  —  no  great  things  to  be  sure — but  still  a  Park,  and  the 


FIRST  BAPTIST-CHURCH. 

only  Park  we  have,  or  are  likely  to  have,  till  we  rope  in  the  Deering-woods  — 
with  a  handsome  fountain,  concrete  walks,  and  a  suggestion  of  trees,  which, 
after  a  few  years,  will  make  it  something  to  be  proud  of,  "whether  or  no." 
Originally  organized  1801  —  re-organized,  Dec.  12,  1866. 

It  can  seat  over  one  thousand. 

Wm.  H.  Shailer,  D.  D.,  pastor,  one  of  our  foremost  preachers  and  scholars, 
29  Pearl-street. 

This  growing,  apostolic  church,  had  its  origin  with  not  more  than  half-a 
dozen  devout  seceeders  from  the  Congregational-churches  in  Portland,  and  the 
neighborhood,  about  1798.  They  met  socially  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Joseph  Tit- 
comb,  Federal-street,  near  the  Friend's  brick  meeting-house — on  the  opposite 
corner  indeed.  Many  were  converted,  and  in  1799,  the  rooms  becoming  too 


102  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

strait  for  them,  they  secured  a  school-house,  on  Union-street.  After  this,  in 
1801,  Mr.  Titcomb  having  been  licensed  to  preach,  they  organized  as  the  First 
Baptist-church,  and  removed  to  a  third-story  hall,  on  Middle-street,  and  Mr. 
Titcomb,  having  been  ordained,  they  built  for  themselves,  a  one-story  meeting 
house,  on  Federal-street — large  enough  to  hold  about  600 — and  dedicated  it 
in  July,  1803;  and  at  last,  July  11,  1811,  a  larger  house  was  built  on  Federal 
street,  greatly  improved  in  1845,  and  at  last,  burned  to  ashes  in  the  great  fire. 

For  pastors,  they  had  the  following,  up  to  the  days  of  Dr.  Shailer,  all  of  them 
devout  men,  fearing  God,  and  preaching  with  earnestness  and  fervor,  and  some 
greatly  distinguished. 

Kev.  Thomas  B.  Ripley,  following  the  Eev.  Josiah  Convers,  and  the  Rev.  Caleb 
Blood,  Rev.  Ebenezer  Thrasher,  Rev.  George  Leonard,  Rev.  John  T.  McGin- 
ness,  Rev.  James  F.  Chaplin,  Rev.  Luther  F.  Beecher,  Rev.  Jacob  B.  Scott, 
and  then  came  Dr.  Shailer,  who  entered  upon  his  duties  in  March,  1854, 
more  than  twenty  years  ago,  one  of  our  ablest  and  best  men,  whose  work 
in  this  portion  of  the  Lord's  vineyard,  has  been  signally  blessed.  When 
he  took  upon  himself  the  great  trust,  there  were  but  219  members.  Dur- 
ing his  pastorate,  up  to  1871 — we  have  no  later  report  for  reference — 335 
were  added;  155  by  baptism  and  163  by  letter — the  deaths,  and  changes  by 
withdrawal,  leave  now  a  membership  of  341. 

After  the  great  fire,  measures  were  taken  for  building  a  new  church,  worthy 
of  their  present  organization,  and  in  June,  1867,  the  corner-stone  was  laid,  and 
after  many  delays  and  interruptions,  the  present  substantial  and  beautiful 
building,  was  completed  and  dedicated,  July  1,  1869,  just  four  years  from  the 
date  of  the  very  last  service  in  the  old  sanctuary.  The  whole  cost  of  building, 
land,  furniture,  organ,  &c.,  was  over  $62,000 — $6000  of  which  were  obtained  by 
the  Burman  circle,  a  society  of  earnest,  faithful  women,  who  insisted  on  the 
privilege ;  Mrs.  Wm.  H.  Shailer,  president,  Miss  Emma  S.  Robinson,  secretary, 
and  Mrs.  L.  A.  Chandler,  treasurer. 

OUR  AUTHOKS  —  SIMON  GBEENLEAF. 

This  learned  and  excellent  man,  who  stood  in  the  foremost  rank  of  our  first 
lawyers  for  a  generation  or  two,  and  was  then  translated  to  Cambridge,  where 
he  became  Royall-Prof essor  on  Law,  compiled  for  us  no  less  than  nine  volumes 
of  Maine-Reports,  8  vo.,  which  are  in  high  estimation  among  all  the  lawyers  of 
our  land.  Miss  Morrill  sent  forth  one  book  only,  Blacklyn-Swamp ;  J.  O'Don- 
nell,  the  Juryman's  Guide.  Rev.  Cyril  Pearl  contributed  "Youths'  Book,"  on 
the  mind,  12  mo.,  and  Spectral- Visitants,  12  mo.  Rev.  C.  Soule,  Questions  on 
Upham's  Mental-Philosophy.  S.  Putnam,  Introduction  to  Analytical-Reader, 
18  mo.  Wm.  D.  D.  Warren,  School-Geography  and  Atlas,  Household-Conse- 
cration and  Baptism.  Rev.  C.  C.  Burr,  Noel  Ronello,  175  pp.,  and  Discourse 
on  Revivals,  8  vo.  D.  C.  Colesworthy,  My  Minister,  Sketches  of  the  Character 
of  Rev.  Charles  Jenkins,  1833,  18  mo. ,  and  many  other  works,  of  which  an  ac- 
count has  already  been  given.  Rev.  George  Quinby,  Sermons  and  Prayers  by 
fifteen  Universalist-clergymen,  pp.  350,  12  mo.  Daniel  D.  Smith,  Lectures  on 


PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED.  103 

Domestic-Duties,  192  pp.  12  mo.  Mrs.  D.  Reed,  Wild  Flowers,  96  pp.  12  mo. 
Eev.  L.  L.  Sadler,  Lectures  on  the  prophecy  of  Daniel,  Catechism  on  Matthew's 
Gospel,  in  two  parts,  18  mo.,  and  Sermon  on  Social  Alliance.  Rev.  Jason  "Whit- 
man, Young  Man' s-Assistant,  394  pp.  18  mo.,  Young  Ladies'-Aid,  304  pp.  18 
mo.,  Helps  for  Young-Christians,  192  pp.,  32  mo.,  The  Sunday-School  82  pp.  18 
mo.,  and  Discourses  on  the  Lord's-Prayer,  240  pp.  18  mo.  E.  B.  Fletcher, 
Man-Immortal,  The  National-Book  of  the  Sabbath,  1861,  144  pp.  18  mo.  Benj. 
Kiugsbury,  Jr.,  Maine-Townsman  and  Probate-Manual,  both  admirably  suited 
to  a  common  want.  William  Smith,  New  Elementary-Algebra.  Moses  Saw- 
yer, Lieutenant  Colburn —  a  novel.  William  Willis,  Documentary-History  of 
the  State  of  Maine,  History  of  Portland,  Law  and  Lawyers  of  Maine,  (with 
omissions.)  Allen  H.  Weld,  Progressive-Grammar,  Progressive-Parsing-Book, 
New-Grammar,  Latin-Lessons  and  Reader.  E.  P.  Weston,  Northern-Monthly. 
Voices  of  Heart  and  Home.  J.  M.  Gould,  History  of  1-10-29  Regiments,  said 
to  be  a  capital  affair  in  its  way.  Rev.  S.  M.  Putnam,  Prayers  from  the  Scrip- 
tures, Old-Divines  and  the  Poets,  272  pp.  12  mo.  P.  W.  Plummer,  The  Car- 
penter's-Guide,  with  plates,  72  pp.  8  vo.  Mrs.  C.  W.  D.  Strout,  Slippery-Paths, 
illustrated.  William  Warren,  D.  D.,  These  for  Those,  Our  Indebtedness  to  Mis- 
sions, 420  pp.  12  mo.,  Twelve- Years  with  Children,  324  pp.  16  mo.  William 
Wirt  Virgin,  Supplemental-Digest  of  Maine,  (a  model  in  its  way,)  620  pp.  8  vo., 
Vol.  57  Maine-Reports,  660  pp.  8  vo.,  Vol.  58,  ditto,  676  pp.  8  vo.,  Maine  Civil 
Officer,  2d,  644  pp.  12  mo.,  a  laborious,  faithful  and  trustworthy  guide.  Of 
John  Neal,  we  have  nothing  more  to  say  just  now,  though  a  volumnious  writer 
on  many  subjects. 

PORTLAND   KEROSENE   OIL-COMPANY. 

These  works  are  in  Cape-Elizabeth,  at  the  southerly  end  of  Vaughan's-bridge, 
and  occupy  over  two  acres.  Capital  $209,000.  Kerosene,  naptha  and  paraffine 
are  manufactured.  Four  million  gallons  of  kerosene  are  the  yearly  product, 
and  of  the  other  articles  mentioned,  enough  to  supply  the  market.  Francis 
McDonald,  president;  H.  N.  Jose,  treasurer. 

FULLER'S  VARNISH-F ACTOR Y. 

Varnishes  of  a  superior  quality  are  turned  out  by  this  company,  and  find 
their  way  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  Depot  208  Fore-street.  A.  P.  Fuller, 
proprietor. 

OUR  CONSULS. 

Henry  John  Murray,  Her  Britannic-Majesty's  Consul  for  Maine  and  New 
Hampshire.  30  Exchange  street. 

George  H.  Starr,  Her  Majesty's  Vice-Consul  for  Portland.  30  Exchange 
street. 

Tomas  Lozano,  Consul  for  Spain.    Corner  Middle  and  Union-streets. 

Andrew  Spring,  Consul  for  the  Argentine-Republic.     15  1-2  Exchange-street. 


104  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

OUR  PAINTERS  —  MBS.    ELIZABETH  MURRAY. 

We  have  recorded  tins  fine  artist  among  our  painters,  not  for  having  been 
born  or  bred  here,  but  because  here  she  painted  her  first  pictures,  after  her 
arrival  from  the  East,  and  long  before  she  came  out  in  Boston  or  New- York, 
where  she  seems  to  have  been  greatly  valued,  and  well  understood. 

Mrs.  Murray  is  the  wife  of  our  British  Consul,  Henry  John  Murray,  Esquire, 
and  a  daughter  of  the  celebrated  Thomas  Ileaphy,  engraver,  and  painter  also 
in  water-colors,  like  his  daughter,  whose  achievements  are  all — portraits  and 
cabinet-pieces  —  all  in  water-colors,  but  harmonious,  rich,  and  sometimes, 
gloriously  treated,  with  all  the  depth  and  strength  of  oil.  Her  gatherings  in 
the  South  of  Europe,  and  the  East,  of  costumes  and  characters,  have  enabled 
her  to  throw  off  with  astonishing  facility,  a  large  number  of  pictures,  including 
some  that  have  gone  abroad. 

Her  father  may  be  remembered,  by  collectors,  at  least,  as  the  artist  who 
painted  Queen  Caroline,  the  Princess  Charlotte,  Prince  Leopold,  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  and  more  than  fifty  field  officers  in  one  piece,  the  engraving  of 
which,  is  well  known  among  both  amateurs  and  connoisseurs. 

OUR   LUMBER   TRADE. 

Heretofore,  and  from  our  earliest  history,  Portland  has  done  a  very  large, 
and  of  late,  until  within  a  few  years,  when  her  West-India  shipments  began  to 
fall  off,  a  prodigious  lumber-business.  And  now,  notwithstanding  the  troubles 
in  Cuba,  and  the  vague  misapprehensions  that  prevail  concerning  our  reciproc- 
ity negotiations,  it  has  begun  to  revive. 

It  seems  by  official  reports,  that  in  the  month  of  August,  this  year,  we  have 
exported  to  ports  in  the  West  Indies,  five  million  six  hundred  and  forty-five 
thousand  feet  of  lumber  —  more  than  we  ever  before  sent  from  this  port  in  any 
one  month,  even  when  the  Saccarappa  and  other  mills,  now  extinct,  were  in 
full  blast.  And  now  we  have  the  following  new  sources  of  supply: 

On  Commercial  street — the  Bethel  Steam  Mills  Co.,  338;  Milan  Steam  Mills 
Co.,  230;  Mowe,  Cole  &  Benson,  332;  Edwin  Clement  &  Co.,  272;  Holyoke, 
Benson  &  Co.,  336;  K.  Deering  &  Co.,  292;  Cummings,  Leavitt  &  Widber,  220; 
C.  H.  Merrill,  244;  C.  E.  Deering  &  Co.,  250;  C.  S.  Clark,  270;  S.  M.  Smart, 
268;  Norton  Mills  Co.,  300;  J.  Hobson,  292;  H.  Bullard,  270;  Richardson  & 
Cross,  174;  S.  W.  Larrabee  &  Son,  194;  W.  H.  Walker  &  Co.,  242;  L.  Taylor, 
175;  S.  C.  Dyer,  157;  Winslow  &  Coombs,  219;  E.  T.  Patten  &  Co.,  270;  Em- 
ery.* Fox,  238.  Berlin  Mills  Co.,  L.  T.  Brown,  W.  W.  Brown,  Berlin  Mills 
Wharf;  Perkins,  Johnson  &  Co.,  Sturdivant's  Wharf;  A.  Edmands,  18  Preble 
street;  Doten  Brothers,  Cross  street;  C.  N.  Delano  &  Co.,  Fore  street. 

Most  of  these  are  large  dealers,  and  many  are  shippers.  Commercial-street, 
you  see,  is  crowded  with  companies  and  firms  wholly  given  to  the  lumber  busi- 
ness, the  history  whereof,  had  we  space,  wTe  should  be  glad  to  give  some\vhat  in 
detail ;  but  one  thing  may  be  said,  and  we  say  it  in  all  seriousness  and  with 
large  experience,  that  in  farming  regions,  where  land  is  tolerably  good,  and 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


105 


markets  within  reach,  lumbering  impoverishes,  instead  of  enriching  a  people. 
Up  to  their  middles  in  water  half  the  year,  and  freezing  the  other  half,  and  not 
always  quite  sober,  their  farms  are  neglected,  their  fences  are  allowed  to  tum- 
ble out  of  line,  their  school-houses  are  the  merest  rattle-traps,  and  their  churches, 
habitations  and  highways  a  reproach  to  the  neighborhood.  But  after  the 
forests  are  thoroughly  cleared,  even  to  the  saplings,  then  we  have  school-houses, 
and  churches,  roads,  bridges  and  farms,  cottages  and  gardens  to  be  proud  of. 


CO>OHESS    SQUAKE,  USI VERBALIST  CIIUKCH. 

Nevertheless,  the  lumber-trade  has,  on  the  whole,  proved  a  mine  of  wealth  for 


us. 


OUK  CHURCHES  —  THE   FIRST  UXIVERSALIST-SOCIETY. 


This  thriving  denomination,  which  seemed  struck  with  paralysis  for  a  time, 
after  the  final  departure  of  the  Rev.  Ilosea  Ballou,  in  1814,  began  to  nourish 
anew,  with  renewed  vigor,  within  the  last  five-and-twenty  years. 


106  PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED. 

The  first  gathering  of  Universalists,  after  the  coming  of  John  Murray  to  the 
new  world,  according  to  the  Kev.  Mr.  Gibbs,  the  present  pastor,  was  early  in  the 
present  century,  in  a  cooper' s-shop,  at  the  foot  of  Mountf ort-street. 

After  this,  they  tried  to  borrow  a  church — or  the  privilege,  at  least,  of  worship- 
ing their  heavenly  Father,  according  to  their  conscientious  belief,  in  some  one 
of  the  many  churches  already  up.  Application  was  made  for  the  Rev.  Hosea 
Ballon,  from  Portsmouth,  to  be  allowed  to  appear  in  the  pulpit,  while  he  was 
on  a  missionary  tour  through  this  neighborhood.  But  no — one  Baptist  deacon 
declaring,  he  had  rather  see  the  devil  walk  up  the  aisle.  Even  school-houses 
were  locked  and  barred  against  him. 

At  last  however,  the  late  Judge  Freeman,  father  of  William  Freeman,  offered 
him  a  shelter  in  his  large  house,  nearly  opposite  the  Second-Parish  church. 
The  rooms  were  crowded,  and  the  gathering  outside,  somewhat  portentous. 
His  subject  was  "The  uncharitableness  of  Sectarianism,"  and  the  discourse 
itself  was  undoubtedly  both  sharp  and  scorching — if  not  altogether  satisfactory 
to  some  of  the  outsiders. 

Then  they  had  Rev.  John  Brooks,  who  held  forth  in  the  Episcopal-church  — 
in  School,  now  Pearl-street.  After  having  tried  in  vain  to  purchase  this  church, 
in  vain — because,  by  a  condition  of  the  original  grant,  the  land  could  not  be 
alienated  from  the  Episcopalian  denomination,  they  had  their  preaching  in  a 
school-house,  nearly  opposite  the  Third-Parish  church,  in  Back,  now  Congress 
street. 

Here,  early  in  1821,  the  Rev.  Russell  Streeter,  preached  for  the  first  time  in 
Portland.  Next  an  effort  was  made  for  the  purchase  of  the  Third-Parish 
church,  but  the  negotiations  were  put  a  stop  to,  by  some  of  the  Second-Parish. 

Whereupon,  the  friends  of  Universalism  took  fire,  banded  themselves  to- 
gether, published  a  "Statement  of  their  faith,"  organized  anew,  and  built  a 
house  for  the  Lord,  which  was  ready  for  dedication  on  the  15th  of  August,  1821. 

It  was  of  one-story,  seventy-five  feet  by  forty-four,  with  a  superficial  area  of 
3600  feet,  containing  eighty-two  pews,  with  seats  for  300  persons,  and  costing 
about  $6000. 

Then  came  the  war,  of  which  we  have  had  occasion  to  say  a  word  heretofore. 
Dr.  Payson,  and  Dr.  Nichols,  who  agreed  in  little  else,  went  hand  and  heart 
against  brother  Streeter,  who,  on  his  part,  having  established  the  Christian 
Intelligencer,  went  into  the  conflict,  with  all  the  ardor  of  early  manhood,  tooth 
and  nail. 

In  1827,  Mr.  Streeter  resigned,  and  was  succeeded  by  Rev.  John  Bisbee,  jr., 
of  Hartford,  Conn.  —  a  truly  pious,  faithful  and  eloquent  man,  who  died  in 
1829,  having  testified  in  a  truly  Christian  spirit,  against  the  arrogant  sectarian- 
ism of  the  day. 

Then  followed  Rev.  W.  I.  Reese,  who  resigned  in  1830 ;  and  then  Rev.  Menyies 
Rayner,  of  Hartford,  Conn.,  who  published  the  Christian  Pilot,  with  a  beetle 
and  wedge.  Having  left  the  Episcopalians,  he  seemed  to  enter  a  new  campaign 
with  something  of  the  fiery  zeal  of  a  new  convert.  Obtaining  leave  of 
absence  for  six  months,  in  September,  1834,  he  never  returned.  The  smoke  of 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  107 

the  battle-field  had  cleared  away,  and  probably  this  region  was  no  longer  desi- 
rable. 

In  April,  1836,  Rev.  D.  D.  Smith  became  pastor ;  and  in  1839  Rev.  C.  C.  Burr, 
— of  whom,  as  a  preacher,  the  less  we  say,  the  better.  He  resigned  in  Decem- 
ber, 1841,  and  in  March,  1842,  Rev.  L.  L.  Sadler,  succeeded  him,  and  in  Janua- 
ry, 1854,  Rev.  C.  R.  Moore,  of  Watertown,  Mass.,  accepted  a  call,  and  served 
till  1860,  when  he  gave  up,  on  account  of  his  health ;  and  then  they  had  Rev.  E. 
C.  Bolles,  of  Boston,  a  remarkable  man,  with  a  wide  range  of  scholarship  and 
scientific  acquirements ;  and  a  new  meeting-house  on  High-street,  was  secured 
January,  1865. 

Mr.  Bolles  was  called  to  another  field  in  1869,  and  in  October  following,  Rev. 
W.  E.  Gibbs  became  their  pastor,  and  on  the  "fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  First 
TJniversalist  Church,"  gave  a  pamphlet  history,  from  which  most  of  the  fore- 
going items  have  been  gathered.  From  all  that  we  hear  and  see  of  Mr.  Gibbs, 
we  feel  sure  that  our  brethren  of  the  Universalist  faith  will  have  no  occasion 
for  regretting  the  services  of  his  predecessors. 

PORTLAND  GAS-LIGHT-COMPANY. 

Incorporated  in  1849 ;  organized  Jan.  1st,  1820.  Works  on  West  Commer- 
cial, near  foot  of  Clark  street.  Mains  are  laid  for  nearly  twenty-five  miles, 
through  our  principal  streets.  Capital  $350,000,  of  which  the  city  owns 
$85,000.  E.  H.  Davies,  president;  J.  T.  McCobb,  treasurer. 

STAB  MATCH-COMPANY. 

In  1869,  the  firm  of  Smith  &  Jordan,  purchased  all  the  patents  of  the  Star 
Match-Company,  and  their  property  on  Kennebec-street.  In  October,  of  the 
same  year,  their  buildings  and  machinery,  were  destroyed  by  fire. 

In  1870,  the  company  set  up  a  new  factory  on  Commercial  street,  wholly  of 
brick  and  iron,  with  concrete  floors,  110  by  60  feet,  with  a  superficial  area 
therefor,  of  6600  feet  for  each  floor.  These  matches  are  now  shipped  to  our 
southern  ports,  to  the  West-Indies,  to  South- America,  and  the  British-Provin- 
ces, beside  supplying  the  whole  region,  and  have  the  highest  reputation. 

The  firm,  now,  is  James  C.  Jordan,  and  A.  &  S.  E.  Spring. 

OUR    SCHOOLS    AND    SCHOOL-HOUSES 

have  long  been  a  subject  of  justifiable  pride  with  us,  and,  we  may  appeal  with 
entire  confidence  to  our  past  and  present  history,  for  evidence  of  our  foresight 
and  liberal  provisions  for  those  who  are  to  take  our  places  hereafter ;  for  what 
our  children  are  now,  that  will  our  country  be,  after  we  have  gone  to  our  rest. 

THE  PORTLAND  HIGH-SCHOOL-HOUSE. 

Built  of  pressed-brick,  with  granite  and  free-stone  trimmings,  one-hundred- 
and-forty-feet  by  eighty,  with  wings  on  each  side,  which  project  eighteen  by 


108  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

twenty-seven  feet  additional,  is,  on  the  whole,  one  of  the  most  imposing 
and  beautiful  of  all  our  public  buildings. 

The  arcade  is  forty-five  feet  in  length,  and  supported  by  well-dressed  granite 
pillars.  The  style  of  architecture  is  what  we  have  agreed  to  call  Roman,  but 
wherefore,  does  not  appear.  The  class-rooms  are  separated,  so  that  the  boys 
and  girls  are  not  turned  loose  together,  nor  allowed  to  intermingle,  without  re- 
strictions. On  the  first  story,  are  eight  large  class-rooms,  thirteen  feet  high ;  on 
the  second,  are  two  high-school  rooms,  fifty-one  by  sixty-two  feet  each,  and  sev- 
enteen feet  high,  with  library-rooms,  etc. ;  on  the  third  story  are  the  grammar 
schools.  In  the  attic  is  a  large  hall  for  exercising,  play,  and  elaborate  drilling 
in  bad  weather.  The  building  is  heated  throughout,  and  wholly  by  steam. 
The  finishing  is  of  chestnut.  Mr.  Harding  was  the  architect  —  omitted  hereto- 
fore, while  speaking  of  the  Fassets,  whom  we  called,  by  mistake,  brothers, 
while,  in  fact,  they  are  father  and  son.  All  the  arrangements  are  of  a  charac- 
ter to  command  our  approbation,  and  the  building  itself,  worthy  of  high 
praise. 

REAL-ESTATE  AND  BUILDING-COMPANY. 

Incorporated  Feb.  '71,  for  building  houses  and  stores.  Capital  $200.000. 
John  E.  Donnell,  president ;  John  T.  Hull,  clerk  and  treasurer. 

BURGESS,  FOBES  &  CO.'s  WHITE-LEAD  FACTORY, 

on  Hun  joy  street,  run  by  steam,  yields  paints  of  a  character  that  has  already 
secured  a  large  and  growing  business.  Their  agency  is  at  80  Commercial  street. 

CAIIOON  MANUFACTURING-COMPANY 

manufacture  kerosene-burners  and  chemicals  of  decided  reputation.  Capital 
$100,000.  Chas.  W.  Gaboon,  treasurer,  Cahoon-block,  corner  Myrtle  and  Con- 
gress streets. 

OUR  CHURCHES  —  CHESTNUT-STREET  METHODIST. 

For  the  substance  of  what  follows,  we  are  indebted  to  another  hand  : 

The  first  Methodist-sermon  preached  in  Maine,  was  by  the  apostle  and 
founder  of  methodism,  in  New-England,  Rev.  Jesse  Lee,  in  a  private-house,  in 
Saco,  Sept.  10,  1793. 

From  Saco,  he  came  to  Portland,  and  on  the  12th,  preached  to  a  small  com- 
pany, in  the  dwelling-house  of  Theophilus  Boynton,  on  Newbury-street.  From 
Portland,  Mr.  Lee  extended  his  journey  eastward,  as  far  as  the  Penobscot, 
preaching  in  various  places,  returning  to  Massachusetts,  in  October.  In  1794, 
he  repeated  his  visit  to  Maine,  and  on  Friday,  Nov.  7th,  preached  in  the 
"Court-House,  in  Portland,  to  a  large  and  attentive  congregation."  It  does 
not  appear,  however,  that  Mr.  Lee  attempted  to  form  a  society,  at  either  of  his 
visits  to  Portland. 

The  formation  of  the  Portland-Circuit,  took  place  in  1795,  with  Rev.  Philip 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


109 


Wager  as  preacher,  and  this  year,  the  first  Methodist  class  in  Portland,  was 
formed.  This  class  consisted  of  six  persons,  and  this  small  band  of  heroic  men 
and  women,  thus  united  in  church-fellowship,  entered  upon  their  work,  and  in 
the  midst  of  derision  and  persecution,  without  any  house  of  worship,  save  such 
as  their  own  dwellings  afforded  them,  and  without  the  means  of  bettering  their 
condition,  struggled  on,  with  an  occasional  addition  to  their  number,  through 
nine  years,  until  1804,  when  their  number  had  increased  to  eleven. 

This  year,  the  prospect  began  to  brighten.      A  friend  of  the  society,  Enoch 
Illsley,  purchased  and  presented  to  them,  the  old  church,  formerly  belonging  to 


CHESTNUT-STBEET,  METHODIST,  CHUKCH. 

the  Episcopalians,  which  was  removed  to  Federal-street,  and  here,  for  the  first 
time,  the  society  had  a  home. 

This  house  occupied  a  site  on  Federal,  between  Exchange  and  Temple 
streets,  and  was  used  by  the  society,  until  the  erection  of  their  church  on 
Chestnut-street.  It  was  afterward  used  for  various  purposes,  and  finally  as  a 
stable,  but,  at  length,  gave  way  before  the  march  of  improvement,  to  make 
room  for  other  buildings.  The  preacher,  at  this  time,  was  Kev.  Joshua  Taylor, 
known  everywhere,  as  Father  Taylor,  under  whose  labors,  the  society  was 
greatly  blessed.  It  increased,  during  the  two  years  of  his  ministry,  from  the 
eleven  above-named,  to  sixty-four,  and  the  gathering  had  become  so  numerous 
as  to  require  enlarged  accommodations. 


110  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

A  board  of  trustees  was  appointed,  and  the  society  entered  upon  the  work  of 
erecting  a  larger  and  more  attractive  church-edifice. 

After  many  embarassments  and  long  delay,  their  efforts  were  successful ;  and 
the  first  Methodist-Episcopal  church  building,  on  Chestnut-street,  was  com- 
pleted, and  dedicated  Feb.  17,  1811,  Eev.  Epaphras  Kilby,  the  stationed  preach- 
er, officiating.  Here  the  society  prospered  greatly,  and  continued  to  increase  in 
influence  and  in  numbers. 

In  1826-27,  the  churches  of  the  city  were  favored  with  a  gracious  revival, 
and  the  Methodist-church,  under  the  pastoral-labors  of  Kev.  E.  Willey,  received 
large  accessions  to  its  membership,  and  the  house  was  so  crowded,  that  it  be- 
came necessary  to  enlarge  it.  Accordingly  a  neat  and  commodious  chapel 
was  erected  on  Cumberland-street,  near  the  church,  and  that  part  of  the  church 
formerly  used  as  a  vestry,  was  added  to  its  seating  capacity.  It  soon  became 
apparent,  however,  that  still  more  room  must  be  provided,  and  accordingly  the 
church  on  the  corner  of  Pleasant  and  Park-streets,  was  erected.  It  was  dedi- 
cated in  the  fall  of  1828,  by  Kev.  Stephen  Lovell. 

Here  a  flourishing  society  was  soon  gathered,  made  up  in  part  from  members 
of  the  old  church,  and  was  always,  while  it  existed,  strong  and  flourishing, 
though  somewhat  involved  in  debt.  It  continued,  till  1835,  when  the  church 
edifice  was  sold  to  the  Second-Unitarian  society. 

The  church  on  Chestnut-street  was  again  greatly  enlarged  in  1836,  and  was 
soon  filled  to  over-flowing.  In  1844,  the  Ward-room,  on  Brackett-street,  was 
procured,  and  a  mission  and  Sunday-school  organized,  under  the  pastoral 
charge  of  Rev.  A.  M.  Blake,  succeeded  in  1845,  by  Rev.  Stephen  Allen,  and  as 
the  result  of  this  enterprise,  the  Pine-Street  church  was  erected,  and  dedicated 
in  the  autumn  of  1846.  The  dedicatory  services  were  conducted  by  Rev.  G.  F. 
Cox,  the  pastor.  This  society  has  always  been  strong  and  flourishing,  and  is 
now  — 1874, — making  arrangements  for  the  erection  of  a  larger  and  more 
creditable  church-edifice. 

In  the  meantime,  the  mother-church  continued  to  grow  in  numbers,  notwith- 
standing the  repeated  drafts  made  upon  her  membership,  until  1851,  when  it  be- 
came necessary  to  strengthen  its  stakes,  and  lengthen  its  cords  in  another  direc- 
tion ;  and  accordingly,  a  chapel  was  erected  on  a  lot  situated  at  the  corner  of 
Congress  and  St.  Lawrence-streets,  generously  presented  by  Dr.  E.  Clark,  for 
the  purpose.  The  chapel  had  a  seating  capacity  of  300.  This  was  a  free  chap- 
el, and  when  completed,  was  free  from  debt.  It  was  dedicated  by  Rev.  Geo. 
Webber,  D.  D.  Sixty  members  were  transferred  from  Chestnut-street  church, 
and  a  society  and  Sunday-school  organized,  under  the  charge  of  Rev.  Eaton 
Shaw,  until  the  next  session  of  the  annual-conference,  when  Rev.  W.  F.  Far- 
rington  became  the  stationed  preacher.  Under  his  labors,  the  house  soon  be- 
came too  small  for  the  people,  and  an  addition  was  made,  at  an  expense  of 
about  twelve  hundred  dollars,  and  pews  took  the  place  of  settees.  The  house, 
thus  enlarged,  would  seat  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  persons,  and  here  the 
society  continued  to  worship,  until  1868,  when  the  church  they  now  occupy, 
was  dedicated,  Rev.  Wm.  McDonald,  a  former  pastor,  preaching  the  sermon  on 
the  occasion. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  Ill 

In  1855  the  old  society  purchased  the  lot  they  now  occupy  on  Chestnut-street, 
and  commenced  the  erection  of  their  third  house  of  worship.  It  was  built  at 
a  cost  of  about  sixty  thousand  dollars,  and  was  dedicated  July  8th,  1857.  The 
old  church  was  destroyed  by  fire  April  26th,  1860. 

In  addition  to  the  above-named  churches,  a  neat  and  commodious  one  has 
been  erected  on  Peak's-Island,  which  has  a  small  but  flourishing  membership. 
The  first  Sunday-school  of  the  denomination  was  organized  in  1822,  in  con- 
nection with  the  Chestnut-street  church,  and  had  for  its  first  superintendent, 
the  late  Hon.  James  B.  Cahoon. 

The  following  table  will  give  the  standing  of  the  denomination  in  the 
city,  May,  1874. 

Value  of  church  property,    -    -    $92,000 

Church  members,  including  probationers,        -  1192 

Sunday-school  officers  and  teachers,    -  146 

Sunday-school  scholars,    ------        1280 

1426 
Volumes  in  library,        --------       2000 

Preachers  for  1874 — Chestnut-Street,  Sylvester  F.  Jones;  Pine-Street,  James 
W.  Johnston;  Congress-Street,  Chas.  B.  Pitblado;  Peak's-Island,  John  0. 
Perry. 

OUB  BANKS. 

With  a  banking  capital  of  about  three-and-a-half  millions,  and  deposits  in 
our  savings  banks,  of  more  than  eight  millions,  Portland  is  not  exposed  to  any 
great  business  fluctuations.  Most  of  the  banks  hereinafter-mentioned,  are  quite 
remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  their  banking-houses. 

FIKST   NATIONAL  BANK. 

H.  I.  Libby,  president;  Wm.  E.  Gould,  cashier.  One  of  our  most  favored  in- 
stitutions, with  a  substantial,  handsome  building,  three  stories  high,  twenty- 
three  by  seventy-six  feet,  with  French  attic  and  French  roof.  The  front  on 
Middle-street,  is  of  Connecticut  free-stone,  which  is  found  to  bear  the  climate 
changes,  with  all  the  dreaded  alternations,  of  humidity  and  temperature,  so  de- 
structive to  the  same  building-material  at  New- York,  without  injury ;  the  dif- 
ference, after  all,  being  between  the  horizontal  and  perpendicular  surfaces,  for 
it  is  the  pavements,  the  steps,  and  side- walks,  which  crumble  and  flake -off, 
both  at  New- York  and  here,  while  the  upright  walls  undergo  no  material 
change ;  not  so  great  a  change  indeed,  as  the  gneiss,  where  mica  predominates, 
the  syenite,  where  horn-blende  is  superabundant,  or  granite  where  felspar  is 
too  plentiful.  It  is  furnished  with  iron  columns  on  Middle-street,  and  the 
Plum-street  side  is  built  of  pressed-brick,  with  free-stone  trimmings.  The 
banking-room  is  fifty-eight  feet  in  length,  with  private  rooms  in  the  rear,  for 
the  accommodation  of  directors,  officers,  &c.,  &c. 


112 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


Well  do  I  remember  when  we  had  but  one  bank  here,  and  that,  the  Port- 
land-Bank, on  the  southerly  side  of  Middle-street,  not  far  from  Exchange.  It 
was  a  two-story,  frame-building,  standing  end  to  the  street.  You  entered  from 
a  front-yard,  and  the  first  thing  you  saw,  as  you  mounted  the  steps,  was  an 
oval  sign,  hung  upon  the  door,  about  eighteen  inches  by  twelve,  lettered  on 
one  side,  BANK  OPEN,  and  on  the  other,  BANK  SHUT. 

And  well  do  I  remember  when  the  half-cents  came  into  use,  and  how 
the  glittering  temptation  was  too  much  for  me,  when  I  was  set  to  counting 
them  out  of  a  small  cask,  and  setting  them  forth,  in  piles  of  ten,  by  the 


FIRST    NATIONAL    BASK    BLOCK. 

cashier,  who  happened  to  be  my  uncle  —  so  that  I  appropriated  a  few,  which 
I  paid  to  some  boys,  for  helping  me  pick  strawberries,  and  got  a  walloping 
for  my  pains ;  my  good  uncle  being  a  severe  disciplinarian,  perhaps  for  having 
been  a  school-master,  before  he  undertook  with  his  nephew.  This  was,  I 
should  say,  about  1803,  when  I  was  under  ten. 

No  one,  among  all  the  changes  you  see,  is  more  gratifying,  or  encouraging, 
than  the  difference  between  most  of  our  large  banking-houses,  now,  and  those 
of  an  earlier  day,  when  we  were  so  easily  satisfied. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  118 

OUR  AUTHORS — MOSES  GREENLEAF. 

The  survey  of  Maine,  with  statistical  tables,  maps,  etc.,  published  here,  by 
Stanley  &  Hyde,  in  1829,  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  works  of  our  time. 

On  referring  to  the  Yankee  of  March  19,  1829,  I  find  the  following  editorial 
testimony,  which,  at  the  end  of  nearly  fifty  years,  may  bear  repetition. 

"The  work  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  ever  produced  in  our  country ;  and 
take  it  altogether,  it  is  one  which  no  reasonable  man  would  have  expected  to 
see,  for  at  least  half  a  century  to  come."  And  is  it  not  so  ?  Have  we  produc- 
ed anything  better,  or  even  as  good,  up  to  this  hour?  "It  is  more  like  what 
they  bring  forth  on  the  other  side  of  the  water,  among  the  wealthy  and  over- 
crowded communities  of  Europe,  where  men  have  leisure  enough,  and  interest 
enough,  to  devote  a  life-time  to  the  completion  of  a  favorite  undertaking,  than 
what  we  have  been  accustomed  to  see  in  our  country,  where,  instead  of  being 
paid  for  their  literary  toil,  scientific,  laborious,  and  extraordinary  men  have  to 
work  for  nothing,  and  find  themselves,  whenever  they  meddle  with  author- 
ship." 

It  was  in  the  preparation  of  this  map,  in  which  our  friend,  John  A.  Poor,  co- 
operated, that  he  acquired  such  a  relish  for  statistics,  and  such  opening  capa- 
bilities for  the  two  magnificent  enterprises,  which  he  undertook  and  carried 
through  so  triumphantly  —  the  Atlantic  &  St.  Lawrence-Railroad,  and  the 
British  &  North- American — for,  after  all,  but  for  him,  they  would  never  have 
been  thought  of — and  for  the  Portland,  Rutland,  Oswego  &  Chicago  road, 
which  narrowly  escaped  a  most  successful  consummation,  through  a  sudden 
providence,  whereby  he  was  translated,  in  the  midst  of  his  abounding  useful- 
ness and  great  influence. 

But  the  review  goes  on  to  say,  after  abstracting  whole  pages  from  the  book  in 
relation  to  our  climate,  our  geography,  our  resources,  and  our  amazing  capabil- 
ities, "these  views  it  will  be  remembered,  are  not  the  views  of  a  story-book,  or 
a  novel-writer;  they  are  those  of  a  sensible  man,  a  practical  surveyor,  and  a 
long-sighted  politician.  Mr.  Greenleaf  is  not  an  every-day  man.  *  * 
*  *  *  *  We  have  a  country  to  be  grateful  for,  and  proud  of,  and 
the  sooner  we  know  it  the  better ;  our  school-books  ought  to  embody  such 
truths." 

CLIMATE  OF  PORTLAND. 

The  average  temperature,  from  observations,  taken  at  sunrise,  noon  and  sun- 
set, for  a  period  of  thirty  years,  according  to  Mr.  Beckett,  were  as  follows : 
January,        20    Fahrenheit.  July,  66    Fahrenheit. 

February,       21  "  August,          64  " 

March,  28  "  September,    56  " 

April,  33  "  October,         45  " 

May,  44  "  November,    34  " 

June,  60  "  December,    24  " 

With  few  mosquitoes,  and  for  a  short  time  only,  no  cockroaches,  and  no 


114  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

"chintzes,"  or  bed-bugs  of  our  own  breeding,  with  cool  nights  in  summer — and 
winter — and  with  capabilities  for  sea-bathing,  almost  unequalled,  what  is  to 
hinder  Portland  from  becoming  one  of  the  largest  and  most  delightful  watering 
places  in  the  world  ? 

Lincoln  Park,  by  the  way,  a  part  of  the  "lungs"  we  have  no  immediate  occa- 
sion for,  situated  as  we  are,  on  a  ridge  of  land,  all  open  to  the  sea  on  one  side, 
and  to  the  White-Hills  on  the  other,  has  an  area  of  108,530  feet,  or  something 
less  than  two  and  a  half  acres.  Within  the  city  limits,  the  greatest  elevations 
are  Bramhall's  Hill,  175  1-2  feet,  on  Munjoy,  161  feet,  and  the  lowest  point  on 
the  ridge  is  57  feet. 

MOBE  ITEMS. 

While  going  through  the  press,  great  changes  have  begun,  and  large  under- 
takings have  been  set  on  foot  among  us,  which  must  not  pass  without  a  word 
of  notice.  For  example : 

At  a  meeting  of  the  church-members  and  parish  of  the  Pine-street  church, 
called  with  a  view  to  build  something  worthier  of  the  society,  subscriptions 
were  opened  on  Monday  evening  last,  which  resulted  in  raising  fifteen  thou- 
sand dollars,  and  last  evening  $5222  were  added,  and  a  promise  from  our  towns- 
man, Mr.  William  Deering,  now  of  Chicago,  of  no  less  than  five  thousand  dol- 
lars, with  his  long  accustomed  liberality  in  the  cause  of  religion  —  making 
over  twenty-five  thousand  dollars  to  begin  with  —  so  that  we  may  look  fora 
building  worthy  of  the  cause. 

And  by  the  papers,  it  will  be  seen  that  we  have  just  sold  the  last  of  our  public 
lands,  originally  amounting  to  millions  of  acres.  When  we  began  taking  ac- 
count of  stock,  and  well-timbered  townships  became  lawful  tender  in  business 
transactions,  and  will  become  of  priceless  value  hereafter,  though  settling  lands 
may  not  rise  to  their  proper  level  for  a  generation  or  two,  notwithstanding  our 
recent  discoveries  in  the  Aroostook  region,  of  unmistakable  importance,  relat- 
ing to  the  productive  power  of  lands  heretofore  deemed  worthless.  We  have 
lately  discovered  also  that  our  spruce  and  hemlock  and  other  growths,  which 
are  flourishing  where  the  pine  growth  has  wholly  disappeared,  is  worth  more 
than  the  pine  growth  itself  ever  was,  though  not  many  years  ago,  spruce  and 
hemlock  were  not  worth  bringing  to  market,  except  here  and  there,  under  very 
favorable  circumstances,  and  for  special  purposes. 

The  total  amount  of  these  land  sales,  just  made  by  auction,  at  Bangor,  is 
$145,553.63.  And  now  the  State  has  no  public  domain  worth  mentioning.  Of 
the  millions  of  acres  she  once  owned,  all  has  gone  into  the  market,  with  cer- 
tain reservations  for  school-houses,  highways,  and  other  like  purposes ;  and  we 
have  no  further  need  of  a  land-agent,  although  most  carefully  provided  for  in 
the  very  outset  of  our  career  as  a  State. 

Timber  lands  in  Oxford,  Piscataquis,  and  Aroostook,  sold  for  35  1-2  cents  the 
acre,  and  from  that  up  to  $1.30 ;  the  right  to  cut  timber  till  1884,  on  R.  16,  Som- 
erset, sold  from  20  1-2  to  31 1-2  cents ;  right  to  cut  on  reserved  lots  in  Aroostook, 
Franklin  and  Penobscot,  at  from  27  cents  to  $1.75  per  acre.  Among  the  pur- 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  115 

chasers  who  were  really  in  earnest,  was  Mr.  G.  F.  Foster,  who  absorbed  16,000 
acres  on  Township  4,  R.  5,  north  of  Bingham's  Kennebec  purchase. 


OUR  BANKS  — THE  CASCO  NATIONAL. 


The  Casco  National,  situated  in  the  rear  of  Casco-Bank  block,  Middle-street, 
with  entrance  through  passage-way,  ten  feet  wide.     Building  of  brick,  42x60 


CASCO    BANK    BLOCK. 

feet.  Banking-room,  40  feet  square,  20  feet  tip  to  the  plates,  with  open  hip 
roof,  showing  the  beams  and  rafters,  at  the  apex  of  which,  28  feet  from  the 
floor,  is  a  circular  sky-light  of  ground  glass,  six  feet  in  diameter.  In  the  rear 
of  the  banking-room  are  the  directors'-room,  16  feet  square,  the  cashier' s-room, 
19  feet  square,  and  a  wash-room,  6x9.  Between  the  directors'  and  cashier's 
rooms,  are  the  money  and  book-vaults,  as  strong  as  brick  and  iron,  and  all  the 


116  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

improved  locks  can  make  them.  The  counters  are  so  arranged  that  the  opera- 
tives are  within  a  hollow  square,  with  entrance  to  the  vaults,  directors'  and 
cashier's  rooms  in  the  rear.  The  finish  is  of  black  walnut,  highly  polished.  The 
ceiling  is  plastered  between  the  rafters,  and  beautifully  frescoed  in  panels.  The 
banking-room  is  lighted  by  windows  on  three  sides.  The  Casco-block  on  Mid- 
dle-street, is  of  Hallowell-granite  —  gneiss,  fifty-five  feet  front,  and  four  stories 
high. 

Well  do  I  remember  when  the  Casco-Banking-house,  was  only  a  small  room 
in  the  second  story  of  a  low  brick  building,  one  of  the  three  or  four  in  a  block,  on 
Middle-street,  and  runing  from  the  corner  of  a  narrow  entrance,  to  Burnham's, 
after  awhile,  Mitchell' s-tavern,  erected  I  should  say  about  1810,  with  rickety, 
wooden  stairs,  running  up  outside,  like  what  we  used  to  see  leading  to  law-offices 
in  Chicago  or  Cincinnati,  one  of  which,  our  townsman,  Bellamy  Storer,  occu- 
pied in  the  day  of  his  glory,  and  before  he  became  a  judge. 

And  now,  that  same  Casco  banking-company,  occupy,  as  may  be  seen  by  the 
plate,  one  of  the  handsomest  piles  of  architecture  among  us,  built  of  finely 
dressed,  and  very  superior  stone,  resembling  white  marble,  though  much  better 
on  many  accounts,  especially  in  case  of  fire.  Of  this  liberal  institution,  Samuel 
E.  Spring,  one  of  our  out-of-town  growths,  is  president,  a  man  of  remarkable 
energy  and  forethought ;  and  William  A.  Winship,  cashier ;  capital,  $800,000. 

GREISVII/LE   MELLEX.' 

While  giving  a  hurried  sketch  of  this  fine  fellow,  I  had  occasion  to  speak  of 
his  young  and  beautiful  wife,  with  whom,  by  the  way,  most  of  us  popinjays 
were  dead  in  love ;  and  now,  on  opening  a  volume  of  the  Yankee  for  another 
purpose,  I  come  upon  the  following  paragraph,  which  brings  husband  and  wife 
before  me,  just  as  I  saw  them  last,  forty-five  years  ago,  in  their  quiet  and 
soothing  little  home  at  North  Yarmouth.  Shall  I  re-publish  it  ? 

"But  the  other  day  —  not  more  than  six  months  ago,  Grenville  Mellen  was  a 
husband  and  a  father,  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  everything  that  such  a  man 
would  care  for,  and  every  prospect  before  him  that  a  reasonable  man  would 
yearn  after.  To-day,  (June  4,  1829,)  he  is  wifeless  —  childless.  A  little 
daughter,  a  first  and  only  child — the  flower  of  his  heart,  was  transplanted  be- 
fore his  eyes,  in  the  summer-time,  of  last  year,  and  instantly  the  seeds  of  death, 
which  are  scattered  through  the  whole  family  and  kindred  of  his  young  and 
beautiful  wife,  waiting  only  for  the  wind  and  rain  of  the  sky — or  the  sighs 
and  tears  of  earth  —  to  be  developed,  sprang  up  in  her  bosom,  and  to-day,  she 
is  no  more.  What  are  such  men  to  do  under  such  overwhelming  sorrow  ?  Are 
they  to  give  up  in  despair — to  lie  down  forever  in  the  dust;  or  shall  they  wake 
up  in  renewed  strength,  resolved  to  convince  the  world  that  there  is,  indeed,  a 
prerogative  in  genius — a  divine  spirit  in  what  is  called  poetry — the  spirit  of 
manhood,  of  resignation,  and  of  power." 

Is  it  not  very  true,  that  many  of  these  every-day  happenings  lie  "too  deep  for 
tears?" 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

OUR  BANKS  —  TIIE  CANAL  NATIONAL. 


117 


Now  so  stately  and  imposing,  of  which,  with  the  annexed  cut  hefore  you, 
you  must  judge  for  yourself,  was,  not  long  ago,  on  Union-street,  occupying  the 
ground-floor  of  a  brick-building,  which,  for  some  reason  or  other,  we  called  our 
Athenaeum,  a  strange,  out-of-the-way  place  for  business-men,  though,  to  be 
sure,  people  who  visited  the  public-library  over-head,  knew  where  to  look  for  it, 


CANAL    BANK    BLOCK. 

on  emergency;  William  W.  Thomas,  president  —  a  town-bred  man  of  business 
late  mayor,  and  one  of  the  most  enterprising  among  us,  thoiigh  exceeding  cau- 
,tious  and  circumspect;  B.  C.  Somerby,  cashier;  capital,  $600,000. 

OUR  PORTLAND  HORTICULTURAL  ASSOCIATION. 

We  have  just  gone  through  with  an  exhibition  of  our  fruitage  and  flowering, 


118  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

topped  off  with  a  pomological  feast,  given  by  our  Portland  association  to  the 
Maine  Pomological  Society,  and  truly,  it  may  be  said,  have  astonished  ourselves. 
In  1859,  there  were  but  two  graperies,  and  two  green-houses  in  Portland.  To- 
day, says  Mr.  Hersey,  the  president,  they  may  be  counted  by  scores. 

Such  apples,  we  venture  to  say,  were  never  before  seen  at  exhibition  or  show,  so 
beautiful,  so  large,  and  of  so  many  different  kinds.  Maine  used  to  be  celebrated 
for  sound  apples,  and  for  a  few  high-flavored,  though  not  large  varieties, 
even  when  the  russets,  the  greenings,  and  the  Newtown  pippins  were  supplying 
the  country,  and  going  abroad  by  cargoes.  And  our  pears  —  what  shall  we  say 
of  them  ?  And  of  our  grapes  ?  One  member,  Mr.  George  W.  Woodman,  sent 
in  twenty  different  kinds  of  pears,  the  result  of  careful  selection  and  treatment 
for  a  few  years  only,  and  might  have  sent  fifteen  or  twenty  more,  if  he  had 
thought  it  worth  while ;  and  other  members  furnished  a  large  variety  of  deli- 
cious and  beautiful  specimens.  And  the  grapes,  the  black  Hamburgs,  Isabellas, 
Catawbas,  Delawares,  and  other  kinds,  were  abundant,  luscious  and  healthy ; 
all  going  to  show  what  Maine  is  capable  of  doing,  and  what  our  city,  and  Ban- 
gor,  and  the  Kennebec  region,  have  already  done  toward  arousing  our  farmers, 
and  begetting  a  generous  enthusiasm  for  fruit-culture,  and  especially  for  that 
of  apples — the  best  in  the  world,  all  things  considered ;  for,  rightly  treated, 
many  varieties  are  almost  imperishable,  in  appearance  at  least ;  large,  beautiful, 
sound  and  hearty. 

And  then,  we  had  the  flowers, —  the  poetry  of  earth — heaps  upon  heaps, 
glowing,  fragrant,  and  almost  shedding  their  colors  upon  the  atmosphere.  Po- 
etry we  call  them — beds  of  poetry  and  baskets  of  poetry — because,  holding 
the  same  relation  to  our  cabbages,  beets,  and  other  substantials,  that  singing-birds 
bear  to  roast  beef  and  mutton,  that  poetry  bears  to  every-day  prose,  they  are  re- 
garded by  the  unthinking  as  useless,  and  comparatively  worthless,  although 
such  is  the  refining  and  elevating  influences  of  their  loveliness  and  fragrance, 
and  infinite  variations  of  color,  that  even  the  dullest  of  clod-hoppers  will  think 
better  of  people  who  live  in  farm-houses  or  cottages,  with  roses,  and  honey- 
suckle, and  morning-glories,  and  woodbine  or  ivy  clambering  over  the  windows 
and  roof,  instead  of  sun-flowers  and  hollyhocks,  and  thistle-blows,  white-weed, 
and  buttercups,  or  dandelions  encumbering  the  front-yard.  On  the  whole, 
therefore,  we  may  well  thank  God  and  take  courage,  for  having  opened  our 
eyes  at  last,  though  rather  late,  to  the  resources  within  our  reach,  and  the  ca- 
pabilities we  are  to  be  answerable  for  hereafter.  Say  what  we  will  of  grapes, 
and  pears,  and  apples,  and  plums  —  all  excellent  in  their  way,  it  must  be  ac- 
knowledged—  flowers  are  the  best  educators  we  have;  appealing  to  no  vulgar 
want,  or  appetite,  or  inclination,  they  enter  into  our  being  like  a  perfume,  and 
appeal  to  our  sense  of  the  beautiful,  without  regard  to  usefulness,  or  nutrition, 
or  market-value,  like  the  singing  of  birds,  the  tinting  of  sea-shells,  the  spatter- 
ed gold,  or  melted  rubies,  and  emeralds,  and  purple  shadows  we  see  on  the  plu- 
mage of  birds  and  butterflies.  And  this,  our  people  are  beginning  to  feel  and 
to  lay  to  heart — even  our  farmers  —  who,  if  they  would  keep  their  daughters, 
and  humanize  their  sons,  must  give  them  flowers  —  must,  I  say,  whatever  they 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


119 


may  do  about  apples,  or  grapes,  or  pears ;  or,  what  is  called  sentiment,  will  be 
confined  to  the  dwellers  of  cities  —  and  vegetable-poetry  will  be  unknown 
among  our  laborious  cultivators  of  the  soil.  The  cottages  of  England,  even  the 
lowliest,  are  often  embowered  in  roses  and  clambering  vines.  In  the  South  of 
France,  it  is  the  same,  and  even  among  the  rough  habitants  of  Canada,  they 
have  little  enclosures  in  front  of  their  miserable  houses,  crowded  with  flowers. 

OUR  BANKS  —  MERCHANTS  NATIONAL. 

Designed  by  Mr.  Stead,  finished  in  black-walnut  and  maple,  with  solid  oak 


MEKCHANTS    BAXK    BLOCK. 

doors,  and  sliding  iron-doors — Merchants  National  on  ground  floor;  Bank 
of  Portland,  and  the  National  Traders',  on  the  second-floor. 

Formerly  occupying  the  ground-floor  of  an  old-fashioned,  unattractive,  brick 
building,  on  Exchange-street,  no  more  to  be  compared  with  the  present  four 
story  structure,  of  Albert-stone,  where  the  institution  is  now  flourishing,  than 
"Satyr  to  Hyperion."  Near  it,  on  the  other  side  of  an  alley,  not  four  feet  wide, 


120  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

running  between  Jones'  s-row,  and  the  Neal -block,  was  the  Maine-bank,  now  no 
more.  Jacob  W.  McLellan,  president — a  native  Portlander,  for  many  years  a 
sea-captain,  then  mayor,  and  then  president  of  our  celebrated  Portland  Com- 
pany; Charles  Payson,  cashier.  A  very  beautiful,  and  richly  ornamented 
banking-house,  built  of  Albert-stone,  which  greatly  resembles  the  celebrated 
Caen-stone,  so  much  used  in  the  palaces  of  London  and  Paris,  with  brown  free 
stone  for  relief.  Capital  $600,000. 

OTJB  MILITARY  ORGANIZATIONS 

must  not  be  overlooked,  though,  with  our  limited  space,  we  cannot  undertake 
to  do  them  justice. 

Let  it  be  remembered,  that  Portland  furnished  altogether,  about  five  thousand 
men  for  the  last  war  —  the  war  of  the  Rebellion — and  paid  bounties  amount- 
ing to  $423,970,  as  we  have  had  occasion  to  state  before,  with  interest  on  a  much 
larger  sum,  after  the  State  equalization.  But  of  our  own  people,  Portland  fur- 
nished 2500  men,  of  which  421  died :  194  of  disease,  190  of  wounds,  23  in  Rebel 
prisons,  14  by  accident,  and  probably  since  the  war,  100  more  have  died,  from 
causes  which  arose  during  the  Rebellion.  Of  these,  there  were  one  lieutenant 
colonel,  1  army-surgeon,  1  navy  surgeon,  3  officers  in  the  navy,  12  captains  in 
the  army,  14  lieutenants,  32  sergeants,  1  non-commissioned  staff  officer,  2  mu- 
sicians, 306  privates  and  15  sailors. 

Before  the  Rebellion  burst  upon  us,  like  a  thunder-clap,  we  had  only  five 
companies  of  infantry,  organized  under  State  authority,  viz.,  the  Mechanic 
Blues,  the  Light-Infantry,  the  Rifle-Corps,  the  Light-Guards,  and  the  Rifle 
Guards.  All  these  companies  lost  no  time  in  offering  their  services  to  the 
State,  which  were  accepted,  and  they  all  achieved  a  most  honorable  record  in 
the  service,  but  were  so  cut  up,  and  so  scattered  and  decimated  by  the  terrible 
vicissitudes  to  which  they  were  exposed,  that  the  organizations  were  lost  for 
awhile.  But  when  the  war  was  over,  on  the  19th  of  February,  1869,  the  Me- 
chanic-Blues were  re-organized,  under  their  original  grant,  which  was  dated 
June  21,  1807.  They  have  now  for  their  captain,  Charles  J.  Pennell,  a  zealous, 
trustworthy  leader,  and  every  inch  a  citizen-soldier. 

The  Light-Infantry  were  organized  at  an  earlier  period — that  is,  on  June  6, 
1803,  and  re-organized  June  1,  1868  —  Jesse  T.  Reynolds,  captain,  another  of 
our  tried  ones. 

The  Portland-Cadets,  were  organized  January  4,  1870,  Neal  D.  Winslow, 
captain. 

The  Sheridan-Cadets,  were  organized  Sept.  17,  1872,  Robert  F.  Somers, 
captain. 

The  Portland  Montgomery-Guards,  were  organized  Oct.  20,  1872,  Augustus  J. 
McMahon,  captain. 

The  Portland  Cadets  were  made  up  of  the  Portland  High-school  students, 
and  for  a  time,  were  called  the  High-school  Cadets,  with  John  Anderson  for 
captain,  a  fine,  soldierly  youth,  and  are  now  acknowledged  for  the  best-drilled 
company  of  the  State,  holding  the  champion  flag,  presented  to  them  by  the 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  121 

city  of  Portland,  July  4, 1872.  And  this,  we  may  be  sure,  is  no  trivial  distinction, 
our  soldier-boys  having  a  constitutional  aptitude  for  military  duties — when  duty 
calls  them  to  the  field  —  and  are  never  slow  in  preparation,  nor  ever  backward 
in  assuming  a  soldier's  responsibility,  at  the  first  tap  of  the  drum,  or  blast  of 
the  bugle. 

The  Montgomery-Guards  are  Irish-Americans  to  a  man,  and  they  are  all 
men.  During  the  last  Presidential  canvas,  they  were  known  as  the  Greeley 
Guards,  and  were  afterward  organized  under  the  title  of  the  Montgomery 
Guards,  and,  of  course,  are  not  the  boys  to  forget  Montgomery,  that  glorious 
Irishman,  who  fell  in  storming  the  fortress  of  Quebec,  if  they  should  ever  be 
called  into  the  field. 

The  Sheridan-Cadets,  are  another  company  of  Irish- Americans,  just  ripening 
into  manhood,  and  none  being  over  twenty-one. 

"With  such  material  to  begin  with,  what  may  we  not  hope  from  our  Irish 
blood,  in  the  day  of  tribulation ;  for  much  as  their  fathers  loved  their  country 
before  they  were  driven  away  by  wrong  and  oppression,  it  is  certain  that  these, 
their  sons,  love  their  country  as  much — their  country  still,  whether  by  adoption 
or  birth,  and  as  Eobert  Emmett,  and  Wolfe  Tone,  and  Richard  Montgomery,  and 
Alexander  Hamilton  struck,  so  will  they  strike  for  the  rights  of  man — the 
right  of  self-government,  and  the  right  of  going  to  heaven  their  own  way, 
without  hindrance  or  molestation. 

Go  back  to  our  early  history  —  even  to  our  earliest  —  and  see  how  largely  we 
are  indebted  to  these  Irish,  of  whom  not  a  few  of  our  people  speak  disparagingly 
at  times. 

Go  through  the  history  of  our  Revolutionary-war,  the  war  of  1812-15,  of  the 
Mexican-wars,  our  Indian-wars,  and  at  last,  of  the  rebellion,  and  see  how  largely 
we  are  indebted  to  these  warm-hearted,  blundering,  headlong  Irishmen,  who 
are  so  much  laughed  at,  and  abused,  now  that  the  danger  is  over.  To  the  Irish 
laborers,  we  owe  much,  for  our  canals,  our  highways  and  rail-roads,  but  to 
the  Irish  soldiers,  infinitely  more,  almost  as  much,  indeed,  as  England  owes  to 
the  Irishmen  of  her  great  military  organizations  in  every  part  of  the  world, 
where  fighting  is  no  longer  play,  and  Wellingtons  are  no  myth,  any  more  than 
the  Sheridans  are  with  us. 

If  we  would  know  what  our  country  owes  to  these  Irishmen,  and  to  these 
Northern  soldiers,  let  us  consider  the  habits  of  our  people  for  a  moment.  The 
men  of  the  South — our  chivalry — or,  as  they  would  pronounce  it,  our  shivalry, 
are  quarrelsome  and  overbearing ;  and  have  always  had  military-schools,  and  a 
well-trained  militia,  and  have  always  been  familiar  with  fire-arms,  rifle  and  pistol 
shooting,  while  we  of  the  North,  as  a  general  thing,  patient  and  submissive, 
up  to  a  certain  point,  whether  of  native  or  foreign  birth,  are,  and  always 
have  been,  deplorably  ignorant  of  arms,  and  averse  to  war  and  strife,  with 
no  military  academies,  no  regular  training,  no  drilling,  and  are  called  to- 
gether, but  once  or  twice  a  year,  only  to  be  made  more  and  more  inefficient  and 
helpless,  at  every  meeting.  Our  militia-system,  in  its  best  days,  until  within 
the  last  five  years,  being  a  most  oppressive  and  unrighteous  poll-tax,  from 


122  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

which  our  wealthiest  men  always  escaped,  if  not  by  exceptions  on  account  of 
age,  or  some  disqualifying  infirmity,  like  dimness  of  sight  or  dullness  of  hear- 
ing, or  a  sluggishness  of  limb,  or  because  of  holding  office,  or  being  profes- 
sional, a  school-master,  a  judge,  or  a  minister  of  the  gospel,  as  if  one  might  not 
do  for  a  chaplain,  though  afraid  or  unwilling  to  burn  powder ;  and  this,  while 
the  poor  man,  the  every  day  laborer,  to  whom  the  loss  of  a  day's  work  is  a  loss 
of  the  dinner  for  his  family,  and  perhaps  of  sleep,  was  held  to  a  strict  discharge 
of  his  duty,  and  must  either  appear  "armed  and  equipped,  as  the  law  directs," 
and  lose  a  day  or  two,  or  pay  a  heavy  fine.  All  things  considered,  therefore, 
the  disadvantages  under  which  we  of  the  North  labored,  is  it  not  wonderful 
that  we  escaped  overthrow  or  annihilation  ? — But  we  were  not  slaveholders, 
and  our  serfs  were  free-laborers,  paid  for  their  services,  which,  after  all,  ex- 
plains the  great  mystery. 

DUE  BANKS  — THE  CUMBERLAND-NATIONAL. 

W.  F.  Milliken,  president,  another  out-of-town  growth,  and  quite  of  a  piece 
with  most  of  the  leading  men  of  our  large  cities,  in  all  professions,  and  in 
all  kinds  of  business,  who  were  trained  in  the  country,  and  there  learned  the 
value  of  time,  the  worth  of  labor,  and  the  importance  of  thrift,  and  frugality. 
Samuel  Small,  cashier;  capital  $250,000.  Building  but  so,  so — of  pressed-brick 
with  free-stone  trimmings,  and  iron  pillars.  The  bank  still  occupies  chambers 
only,  as  it  did  before  the  fire. 

OUR  INSURANCE  COMPANIES  —  MARINE,   FIRE,   LIFE,   &C.,   &C. 

These  companies  are  numerous,  and  without  a  single  exception,  we  believe, 
trustworthy. 

The  oldest  of  all  our  native  institutions,  is  the  Ocean-Insurance  Company,  17 
Exchange-street,  which  has  confined  itself  to  sea-risks,  hulls,  cargoes,  and 
freights,  though,  as  originally  organized,  it  was  intended  to  do  a  fire  business, 
also.  Chas.  M.  Davis,  president ;  George  A.  Wright,  secretary. 

OUR  FIRE-INSURANCE 

agencies,  are  very  numerous,  but  all  foreign,  that  is,  of  other  States;  and 
many,  if  not  most  of  our  largest  and  safest  offices,  are  represented  among  us 
by  the  following  officers. 

Barnes  Brothers,  28  Exchange-street,  representing  fourteen  companies,  with 
assets  of  $10,000,000;  R.  W.  Deering,  5  Exchange,  one  company,  assets  $1,000,- 
000 ;  Dow,  Coffin  &  Libby,  nine  companies,  assets  $20,000,000 ;  Jeremiah  Dow, 
67  Exchange,  one  company,  assets  $2,500,000;  John  E.  Dow  and  J.  S.  Palmer, 
1  Exchange,  six  companies,  assets  $12,000,000;  J.  M.  Heath,  42  1-2  Exchange, 
three  companies,  $25,000,000;  W.  D.  Little  &  Co.,  49  1-2  Exchange,  ten  com- 
panies, assets  $10,000,000 ;  John  W.  Hunger,  156  Fore,  five  companies,  assets 
$2,000,000;  W.  G.  Eay,  190  Fore,  two  companies,  assets  $1,250,000;  Rollins, 
Loriug  &  Adams,  eighteen  companies,  assets  $50,000,000 ;  Warren  Sparrow,  96 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  123 

Middle,  three  companies,  assets  $2,000,000 ;  Upham  &  Gardiner,  7  Exchange, 
six  companies,  assets  $2,000,000;  Joseph  H.  Webster,  84  1-2  Middle,  two  com- 
panies, assets  $1,000,000. 

LIFE-INSURANCE. 

And  we  have  also  represented  among  us,  The  Mutual-Benefit  Life-Insurance, 
which  I,  myself,  had  the  pleasure  of  introducing  here,  immediately  after  its 
organization,  a  company  which  has  wrought  many  changes  in  the  whole 
system  of  Life-Insurance,  and  has  been,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  astonishingly 
prosperous.  Mr.  Warren  Sparrow  is  the  agent  now. 

THE  NEW-YORK  MUTUAL, 

W.  D.  Little  &  Co.,  agents,  was  somewhat  earlier  in  the  field  than  the  Mutual 
Benefit  company,  requiring  all  cash  however,  while  the  Mutual-Benefit  and 
some  other  companies  allow  a  credit  of  one  half,  on  certain  desirable  and  safe 
conditions.  This  company,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  prosperous  in  the 
world,  has  accumulated  a  fund  of  $75,000,000. 

TIIE   NEW-ENGLAND   MUTUAL, 

of  which  the  late  William  Willis,  was  agent  for  many  years,  and  then  Mr.  N. 
P.  Deering,  up  to  the  time  of  his  death,  is  now  represented  by  J.  M.  Palmer. 

The  _<Etna,  by  A.  G.  Dewey;  American  Popular,  by  John  B.  Hudson; 
Charter  Oak,  by  S.  H.  McAlpine;  Equitable,  by  Roberts  &  Clark;  Massa- 
chusetts-Mutual, by  S.  F.  Merrill;  Merchants,  by  Aug.  H.  Ford;  Phoenix 
Mutual,  by  J.  T.  Eeynolds ;  North  America,  by  M.  L.  Stevens ;  State-Mutual, 
by  Dow,  Coffin  &  Libby ;  Travelers,  by  A.  J.  Chase. 

ACCIDENT  INSURANCE. 

Is  represented  here  by  W.  D.  Little  &  Co.,  A.  J.  Chase,  and  Rollins,  Loring 
&  Adams. 

OUR  BANKS  —  THE  PORTLAND-SAVINGS. 

On  Exchange-street.  John  B.  Brown,  president;  Frank  Noyes,  cashier. 
Deposits  with  accumulated  interest,  over  five  millions.  Decidedly  one  of  the 
most  prudent,  and  cautious,  and  at  the  same  time,  one  of  the  most  liberal  in- 
stitutions of  the  kind,  which  we  have  any  knowledge  of.  The  president, 
a  host  of  himself,  a  tower  of  strength  —  sagacious  and  prosperous,  and  the 
officers,  managers,  cashier,  and  assistant  cashier,  experienced,  courteous  and 
faithful  men,  their  triumphant  progress  from  the  beginning,  is  no  marvel.  Our 
first  Savings-bank  was  a  melancholy  failure ;  both  of  those  now  in  operation, 
are,  in  fact,  our  safety-valves,  and  worthy  of  entire  confidence. 

And  the  building  itself,  including  the  block,  which  belongs  to  the  bank,  and 
was  got  under-way  soon  after  the  fire,  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  without  being 


124 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


overloaded,  or  of  extravagant  pretensions.  It  is  built  of  pressed-brick,  with 
Albert-stone  trimmings,  three  stories  high,  with  a  tall,  French-roof — but  here 
you  have  it,  and  may  judge  for  yourself.  The  Banking-house,  with  handsome, 
well-finished  rooms,  for  the  comfort  and  accommodation  of  the  directors  and 


PORTLAND    SAVINGS    BANK    BLOCK. 

officers,  occupies  the  whole  ground-floor,  on  the  nearest  corner ;  in  the  second 
story,  the  Gas  Company,  and  law-offices,  are  established,  and  the  upper 
story  is  occupied  as  a  hall,  by  all  the  Masonic  bodies  of  the  city,  and  there  are 
three  large,  handsome  stores  on  Exchange-street,  running  through  to  Market 
street. 

SOMETHING  HEMAKKABLE— FOKETELLINGS  AND  THEIR  FULFILMENT. 

On  the  12th  of  March,  1828 — nearly  fifty  years  ago,  there  appeared  in  the 
Yankee,  the  following  bold  prophecies,  and  stinging  reflections.  I  do  not  pre- 
tend to  be  a  prophet,  or  the  son  of  a  prophet ;  but  my  friend,  Gen.  John  Marshall 
Brown,  who  had  been  tumbling  over  a  stray  copy  of  that  inestimable  folio,  the 


PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED.  125 

Yankee,  has  just  called  my  attention  to  the  following  papers,  which,  after  due 
consideration,  I  have  concluded  to  re-publish,  hoping  that  fifty  years  from  now 
they  may  be  again  disinterred,  and  set  a-ringing  once  more.  It  is  entitled 
"Portland  —  the  Future,"  and  I  have  changed  only  here  and  there,  a  word  or 
two :  "We  should  like  to  ask  our  people,  who  appear  to  have  spent  a  heap  of 
money  upon  the  streets  and  side-walks  of  the  town,  whether  it  has  been  profit- 
ably or  worthily  spent;  whether,  if  it  cost  a  thousand  dollars  to  do  a  thing 
properly,  there  would  be  any  real  wisdom  in  appropriating  but  nine  hundred 
and  fifty  for  it?  And  whether  it  would  be  possible,  in  their  opinion,  to  per- 
suade a  stranger,  who  had  been  trapped  here  once  by  a  rainy  day  in  March, 
ever  to  run  the  risk  a  second  time ;  or  in  other  words,  whether  they  do  or  do 
not  believe  in  the  old  proverb,  "that  a  burned  child  dreads  the  fire." 

"As  for  ourselves,  were  we  not  born  here,  and  rooted  here,  (rooting  here,  we 
should  say,  if  we  had  not  a  mortal  aversion  to  a  pun,)  we  do  not  believe  that 
we  could  be  tempted  by  any  reasonable  bounty,  to  venture  near  such  a  congre- 
gation of  sloughs,  pit-falls,  mantraps,  slides,  slippers,  and  leg-breakers  (we  de- 
sire to  be  particular,)  as  abound  here  —  here  —  in  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
towns  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  and  capable,  we  are  quite  positive,  all  things 
considered,  of  being  made  more  of,  than  perhaps  any  other  town  of  America 
— after  having  once  been  caught  in  it,  or  kept  in  it  by  bad  weather. 

"We  do  wish  we  could  persuade  our  people  to  look  into  the  truth  of  a  few 
axioms,  which  require  only  to  be  stated  to  prove  themselves. 

"We  say  that  the  character  of  a  town  is  but  another  name  for  its  wealth  and 
prosperity."  (N".  B.  Just  here  I  should  like  to  insert,  that  the  character  of  a 
town  determines  the  character  of  its  people.)  "And  we  say,  moreover,  that  its 
character  abroad — not  at  home;  its  character  among  its  neighbors,  and  among 
travelers  and  strangers, — not  among  its  own  citizens  and  house-holders,  or 
land-holders,  will  decide  its  prosperity  for  an  age,  if  not  forever.  And  we  say 
also,  that  however  much  may  depend  upon  its  hospitality,  the  public  spirit,  the 
commercial  spirit,  or  the  wealth  of  a  town,  quite  as  much,  if  not  more,  depends 
upon  its  public-houses,  public  conveyances,  roads,  streets,  and  sidewalks ;  and 
that  either  beauty  of  situation,  or  beauty  of  neighborhood,  if  rightly  taken  ad- 
vantage of,  may  be  made  a  mine  of  wealth,  a  source  of  perpetual  revenue. 
Just  look  at  the  situation  of  Portland.  With  landscapes  on  every  side  of  it, 
sea-shores,  sea-bathing,  and  sea-views  at  every  man's  door;  with  pictures  on  the 
earth,  and  pictures  in  the  sky;  water  and  woods,  and  hills,  rivers  and  seas,  and 
bridges  and  forts,  a  salt-water  lake  on  one  side,  with  the  White-Hills  of  New 
Hampshire  in  full  view  of  almost  every  house,  and  the  high-seas  on  the  other; 
and  yet  so  abominably  deficient  in  good  streets,  and  sidewalks,  or  platforms, 
that  for  weeks  and  weeks  every  year,  it  is  hardly  possible  for  next-door  neigh- 
bors to  visit  each  other,  unless  they  go  in  a  carriage,  or  swing  themselves  from 
door  to  door  by  a  rope,  without  going  over  shoes  in  mud,  or  slumping  half-leg 
deep  into  the  snow  and  slush  of  the  season. 

"As  for  ourselves,  we  are  satisfied  that  more  money  is  lost,  in  the  shape  of 
carriage-hire,  shoe-leather,  comfort,  health,  time,  doctors'  bills,  &c.,  &c.,  every 


126  POETLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

year,  than  would  be  required  to  keep  the  sidewalks  of  the  whole  town  as  neat 
as  a  breakfast-table." — But  query — "If  our  young  men  go  to  a  party,  they  must 
go  in  boots,  or  in  shoes  that  unship ;  and  as  for  the  women,  they  cannot  go  at 
all  — they  have  to  be  carried  and  dropped  at  the  door." 

"Would  that  our  men  of  large  property  would  bestir  themselves  —  or  die  off — 
we  don't  care  which.  They  are  only  in  the  way  now,  and  if  they  could  hear 
the  whisper  of  the  public,  they  would  find  it  so.  If  they  do  not  wake  up  from 
their  apathy,  the  sooner  they  are  off,  the  better.  They  have  done  all  the  good 
they  were  ever  capable  of.  Good! — to  be  sure  they  have.  But  how?  By 
looking  to  the  future  ?  No  —  by  laboring  for  themselves,  and  for  themselves 
alone.  By  educating  their  children,  by  building  up  houses,  and  hoarding  up 
wealth,  and  thereby  preparing,  in  spite  of  their  teeth,  and  as  the  cattle  do  that 
enrich  the  hills,  or  tread  the  clay  for  the  hands  of  the  potter — the  very  materi- 
al that  our  future  statesmen  are  to  work  with,  to  endow  with  beauty  and 
strength,  or  to  shape  for  magnificent  uses.  If  they  had  half  the  spirit  of  our 
young  men,  or  if  they  would  co-operate  together,  and  avail  themselves  of  the  ad- 
vantages that  lie  within  their  grasp,  they  would  live  all  the  happier  for  it,  and 
die  all  the  richer,  and  Portland  in  ten  years  from  to-day,  would  be  a  city  of 
thirty  thousand  inhabitants." 

Some  of  these  hints  and  suggestions  were  taken  in  good  part,  and  now  what 
are  we  ?  Just  look  at  our  streets,  and  sidewalks,  and  public-houses,  and  public 
conveyances,  our  population,  our  wealth,  and  our  business-resources. 

"But,"  says  the  writer,  "our  wealthy  men  ought  to  know,  must  know  indeed, 
if  they  consider  the  matter  in  a  way  worthy  of  their  reputed  sagacity,  that  the 
value  of  their  houses  and  stores,  nay,  of  the  very  dirt  they  tread  upon — their 
acres  of  earth,  which  they  would  retail  from  the  apothecary-shop,  if  they  had 
the  power — is  in  exact  proportion  to  the  character  of  the  place  where  they  are 
situated,  in  the  view  of  comparative  strangers." 

"Let  them  watch  the  growth  of  the  most  inconsiderable  village  —  nay,  the 
first  settlement  or  breaking  up  of  the  wilderness,  let  them  go  along  with  its 
history,  step  by  step,  till  the  former  has  become  a  great  commercial-city,  and 
the  other  is  teeming  with  nations.  It  is  the  first  traveler — it  is  the  stran- 
ger that  settles  there  first ;  the  stranger  that  gives  it  a  character  with  strangers, 
—  who  cares  for  the  favorable  testimony  of  the  inhabitants?  —  they  are  all  in- 
terested witnesses — the  stranger  that  builds  it  up  and  gives  it  a  name  and  a  his- 
tory;  and  the  very  day  that  the  stranger  avoids  it,  or  bears  testimony  against  it, 
is  the  very  day  from  which  its  downfall  may  be  reckoned.  Ask  yourselves  the 
question.  Do  you  not  feel  kindly  toward  that  place,  whatever  it  may  be,  where 
you  spent  your  time  agreeably,  years  and  years  ago  ?  And  do  you  not  speak 
bitterly  of  that  place,  whatever  it  may  be,  where  you  were  treated  unkindly,  or 
spent  your  time  disagreeably — though  it  was  in  your  boyhood,  ever  so  long  ago  ? 
And  has  not  your  influence,  do  you  believe,  hindered  some  person  or  other,  in 
the  whole  course  of  your  life,  either  from  settling  in,  or  visiting  that  place  ?  If 
so,  it  has  probably  lost  much  more  than  it  ever  gained  by  you,  even  though  you 
were  cheated  by  every  man  you  had  to  do  with,  while  you  were  there.  Look 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  127 

at  the  history  of  the  great  cities  of  our  earth,  which,  after  rising  from  the 
deep,  like  meteors  —  John  Milton  says  like  exhalations — like  meteors  have  dis- 
appeared, leaving  their  very  neighborhood  a  desert.  What  has  destroyed  them  ? 
The  curse  of  the  stranger.  Who  would  trust  a  ship  in  a  port  charged  with 
punic  faith  ?  Who  would  sleep  in  a  land  where  the  stranger  is  looked  upon  as 
lawful  prey?  The  wreck-season  on  the  coast  of  Cornwall,  and  the  harvest 
reaped  of  travelers  in  the  decrepit  cities  of  Europe,  have  made  both  a  by-word  and 
a  reproach  everywhere.  A  few  years  more,  and  the  harvest  in  the  cities  will  be 
done  with,  and  the  posterity  of  the  wreckers  will  be  found  only  among  the 
paupers  of  the  land  that  gave  them  birth.  Look  at  the  history  of  Baltimore. 
See  how  it  throve  while  it  bore  a  high  character  abroad ;  see  what  it  has  be- 
come now,  with  its  mobs,  its  banditti,  its  pirates,  privateers,  and  bankrupts.  It 
is  decidedly  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  the  world,  with  a  very  intelli- 
gent, moral,  and  high-hearted  community,  and  yet,  an  age  may  not  restore  to 
it  the  character  it  lost  within  a  period  of  six  years."  P.  S.  But,  God  be 
thanked,  is  now  restored,  standing  higher  than  ever. 

It  is  not  the  natural  growth  of  a  town  we  are  to  trust  to — for  if  a  town 
does  not  go  ahead  faster  than  the  surrounding  country,  it  goes  backward. 
The  population  are  always  rowing  against  wind  and  tide.  It  cannot  afford 
to  be  stationary  for  a  moment.  If  a  place  be  not  attractive  enough  to  bring 
the  stranger  to  settle  in  it,  we  may  be  sure  that  it  will  not  be  attractive 
enough  to  keep  those  who  are  born  in  it,  and  they  it  is,  that  form  the  true 
wealth  of  a  country.  The  stranger  will  be  fixed  by  that  which  is  overlooked  by 
the  eye  of  one  familiar  with  it.  Turn  to  Portsmouth — deserted  a  few  years 
ago  by  all  her  young  men,  as  fast  as  they  were  able  to  get  away,  she  had  better 
been  deserted  by  all  her  old  men,  with  all  their  wealth  into  the  bargain.  So 
with  Xewburyport;  and  both  at  the  same  time,  were  over-peopled  with  women, 
with  well-educated,  superior,  handsome,  unmarried  women.  It  was  a  reproach 
to  the  country." — And  how  is  it  with  Salem  to-day? 

"Depend  upon  it,  there  is  something  wrong  in  the  social  system  of  every  com- 
munity, where  fine  girls  are  left  unmarried,  especially  in  a  country  like  this, 
where  even  yet,  as  it  was  in  the  days  of  Doctor  Franklin,  a  second-hand  wife, 
with  a  ready-made  family,  ought  to  be  looked  upon  as  a  fair  capital  to  be- 
gin with.  It  may  appear  strange  at.first,  but  such  is  the  fact,  and  after  a  little 
consideration,  it  will  not  appear  strange,  that  though  it  must  be  harder  to  sup- 
port a  family  than  yourself,  it  is  generally  done  with  more  ease  —  we  have 
uttered  a  queer  paradox,  but  we  shall  not  unsay  it,  for  it  is  literally  true.  It 
would  be  often  easier  for  a  married  man  to  support  a  family  in  a  given  way, 
than  for  a  single  man  to  support  himself,  in  the  same  way.  His  neighbors 
have  more  faith  in  him ;  they  see  him  rooted  as  it  were,  among  them ;  his  fam- 
ily are  his  bondsmen.  They  are  so  many  pledges  to  the  public  for  his  good 
behaviour.  And  who  that  knows  much  of  the  human  heart,  would  not  prefer 
the  endorsement  of  a  good  wife,  with  two  or  three  healthy  children,  to  that  of 
most  unmarried-men,  for  a  promissory-note?" 

"We  don't  ask  people  who  keep  fifty,  or  a  hundred  thousand  dollars  lying  idle, 


128  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

year  after  year,  in  the  vaults  of  a  bank,  nor  men  who  found  theological  institu- 
tions, and  then  buy  up  notes  against  poor  debtors,  that  have  failed,  and  are 
beginning  the  world  anew,  with  a  little  family  strapped  on  their  backs — notes, 
with  which  to  pay  them  for  wash-stands  that  are  bought  by  the  score  to  give 
away ;  but  we  speak  to  those  who  have  not  the  courage  to  damn  themselves  so 
utterly ;  to  those  who  would  be  sorry  to  have  their  children  rejoice  over  their 
death-bed." 

"But  look  at  home!  Do  we  not  perceive  that  our  young  men  who  go  abroad 
are  attracted  for  permanent  residences,  only  to  the  beautiful  cities,  or  thriv- 
ing towns  of  our  country?  If  they  go  to  New-Orleans,  it  is  only  to  get  rich 
enough  to  be  able  to  leave  it,  and  for  what  place?  for  their  native  town? — no 
indeed,  but  for  some  town  more  celebrated;  more  beautiful,  or  more  enterpris- 
ing. Ask  anybody  of  experience,  if  it  be  not  true,  that  they  who  have  once 
left  their  native  town,  are  more  reluctant  to  return  to  it,  than  the  stranger  is  to 
settle  there,  and  this,  in  spite  of  all  their  supposed  yearning  after  the  home  of 
their  childhood,  and  in  spite  of  all  their  oaths  to  go  back,  when  they  are  able  to 
keep  a  carriage,  and  make  their  old  bare-footed  playmates  die  with  envy." 

"But  there  are  people,  who,  if  they  see  their  money  going  in  large  quantities, 
and  coining  in  small  quantities,  can  never  be  made  to  believe,  that  after  all,  there 
may  be  a  profit  in  the  operation ;  just  as  there  are  those,  who,  if  they  lay  out 
money,  are  never  satisfied  with  any  other  return  but  money — health,  strength, 
happiness,  comfort,  respectability,  all  these  are  nothing,  if  they  cannot  be  scored 
off  in  pounds,  shillings  and  pence,  or  reckoned  by  decimals.  Give  such  men 
power,  and  they  would  never  consent  to  the  repairs  of  a  side-walk,  or  a  high- 
way, at  the  public  cost,  much  less  at  their  own.  But  why  ?  Because,  forsooth, 
it  would  be  impossible  to  prove  to  them  that  the  money  they  expend,  will  ever 
come  back  to  them,  in  the  shape  of  money.  The  whole  town  may  prosper  for 
it;  it  may  be  thronged  with  strangers  and  visitors,  from  every  part  of  the 
world ;  everybody  may  be  able  to  live  in  comfort,  and  run  about  among  the 
curiosities,  without  going  over-shoes  in  mud,  and  yet,  these  ha'penny  calcula- 
tors would  never  acknowledge,  or  never  see  that  the  money  has  not  been  wasted. 

But  enough.  Our  town  we  are  proud  of.  We  know  what  it  is  capable  of 
being  made,  and  we  have  no  patience  therefore,  with  our  people,  when  we 
look  at  our  side-walks  and  thoroughfares,  and  see  strangers  plowing  through 
them  half-leg  deep,  on  the  way  from  their  boarding-houses  to  the  regular  places  of 
business.  We  are  half  inclined  to  stop  them  in  the  street,  and  advise  them  not 
to  venture  abroad  without  a  balloon  —  or  stilts,  and  a  cork  jacket." 

But  reforms  followed  this  startling  appeal,  and  we  began  to  travel  dry-shod, 
after  a  city-government  was  established. 

And  again,  April  2,  1828,  we  have  another  article  about  Portland,  which 
seems  written  for  to-day.  It  is  entitled  "PORTLAND.  Wliat  is  everybody's 
business  is  nobody's  business.  Ours  is  a  land  of  steady  habits,  and  this  town  is 
remarkable  for  severity  of  religious  discipline  —  if  not  for  morality.  We  have 
plenty  of  law  to,  but  who  cares  for  itf  " — Look  at  our  police-reports,  and  the 
staggering  men,  women  and  boys,  we  meet  with  at  every  turn,  though  not  a 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  129 

drop  of  liquor  is  to  be  had  this  side  of  Moosehead-Lake,  if  we  may  believe  a 
late  mayor,  and  one  of  our  highest  authorities  on  the  temperance  question, 
and  we  have  —  it  is  pretended — prohibitory  laws,  and  officers  with  the  highest 
inquisitorial  powers. 

"Boys  play  bat-and-ball,  at  noon-day,  in  the  most  frequented  streets,  with 
windows  all  about,  and  horses  continually  passing.  We  have  constables  by  the 
score,  and  yet  nothing  is  done."  Now,  all  this,  be  it  observed,  was  in  1828. — 
How  much  better  is  it  now  ? 

"Soys  break  into  our  dwelling-houses  on  the  Sabbath-day,  and  steal  whatever 
they  can  carry  off;  they  break  the  windows  of  our  sleeping-chambers,  in  pure 
sport;  and  they  set  fire  to  our  dwellings  at  night,  in  a  frolic.  We  have  magis- 
trates, and  constables,  and  judges  enough  and  to  spare;  yet  no  inquiry  is  had, 
no  complaint  is  made."  Yet  more: 

"Cart-loads  of  garbage,  are  left  steaming  and  smoking,  day  after  day 
on  the  only  sidewalk  of  a  large,  wide-street,  which  is  rendered  impassible 
by  the  filth,  and  almost  uninhabitable  by  the  smell :  we  have  citizens,  and 
neighbors,  and  selectmen,  and  police-officers  —  yet  these  things  are." 

Then  follow  a  number  of  cases,  in  confirmation  of  all  this  —  and  then  a 
proposition  for  a  City-government,  which  soon  followed,  though  it  had  been 
refused  over  and  over  again. 

LATE  OPERATIONS  OX  THE  GEAXD-TEUXK —  CHANGE  OF  GAUGE. 

We  have  had  occasion  to  speak  of  this  truly  vast,  generous,  and  well-managed 
institution,  more  than  once  already. 

But  a  gigantic  operation  of  this  Company,  just  completed  with  astonishing 
energy,  promptitude  and  success,  deserves  honorable  mention. 

For  many  years,  there  has  been  a  war  of  gauges  in  this  region.  At  one 
period,  the  broad  gauge  carried  all  before  it ;  and  most  of  us  being  unacquainted 
with  its  practical  disadvantages,  and  having  our  whole  attention  fixed  upon  its 
apparent  advantages — greater  safety  and  greater  carrying  power — we  denounced 
the  narrow  gauge,  and  resisted  every  proposed  change,  though  it  was  evident 
enough  that  the  narrow  must  yield  to  the  broad,  or  the  broad  to  the  narrow 
gauge,  throughout  a  line  of  twelve  hundred  miles. 

But  within  the  last  three  years,  our  eyes  have  been  opened,  and  the  magnifi- 
cent operations  of  the  Grand-Trunk,  with  its  twenty-two  hundred  passenger 
and  other  cars  to  change,  and  yet  leaving  four  thousand,  four  hundred  broad 
gauge  trucks  to  be  dealt  with.  Of  these,  about  sixteen  hundred  may  be 
adapted  to  the  narrow  gauge,  thus  increasing  the  aggregate  rolling-stock,  by 
that  number.  An  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  this  undertaking  may  be  had,  by 
considering  that  "the  wheels  of  cars,  standing  at  Point  St.  Charles,  and  packed 
closely  together,  end  to  end,  would  probably  cover  a  space  of  ten  acres,  and 
stretched  along  a  single  line,  would  cover  a  distance  of  from  eight  to  ten  miles. 
In  addition  to  this,  there  were  on  the  Anthabaska  branch,  on  Friday  night, 
Sept.  25,  enough  broad  gauge  cars,  packed  end  to  end,  to  cover  a  distance  of  five 
miles." 


130  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

"This  company,"  says  the  Montreal  Gazette,  from  which  the  foregoing  ex- 
tract is  borrowed,  "within  the  last  two  years,  have  expended,  including  addi- 
tions to  rolling-stock,  siding-accommodations,  and  the  great  bridge  across  the 
Niagara-river,  at  Buffalo,  twelve  and  a  half  million  dollars."  And  now,  they 
have  changed  along  the  whole  line  of  twelve  hundred  miles,  the  broad  gauge 
to  a  narrow  gauge,  as  if  by  magic,  having  an  army  of  laborers,  stretching  from 
Portland  to  Island-Pond,  who  did  th  eir  part  of  the  work  almost  in  a  day. 

"Of  the  importance  of  these  improvements,  to  the  efficiency  and  usefulness 
of  this  great  route  of  trade  and  travel,  it  is  difficult  to  make  an  adequate  esti- 
mate. Not  only  will  the  line  itself,  be  eqxial  to  a  vast  deal  more  work,  but  it 
will  be  able  to  extend  its  usefulness  in  all  directions.  Cars  may  be  loaded  here 
at  Portland,  with  goods  from  Europe,  and  proceed  to  almost  any  point  in  the 
West  or  North-west,  without  interruption,  and  in  the  same  way,  merchandise  may 
be  put  on  the  cars  at  Montreal,  and  sent  to  Chicago  or  San-Francisco,  without 
breaking  bulk." 

Let  us  lay  these  facts  to  heart,  and  then  publish  them  to  the  world,  as  by 
the  sound  of  trumpets,  until  we  are  known  everywhere,  as  the  chief  central 
depot  in  the  great  inter-oceanic  thoroughfare,  between  the  Old  World  and  the 
New — the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific. 

P.  S.  We  cannot  withold  the  following  items,  that  have  just  appeared  in 
the  Argus,  one  of  our  half-dozen  papers,  which,  to  say  the  least  of  them,  are 
entitled  to  entire  confidence,  in  all  such  matters.  Alike  trustworthy,  and 
Careful,  they  deserve  all  we  have  said  or  can  say  of  them,  as  business-papers  in 
particular,  to  say  nothing  of  their  newspaper  qualifications. 

"The  advantages  to  follow  from  this  change  of  gauge,  can  hardly  be  estimated. 
It  is  sufficient  to  know  that  a  car-load  of  tea,  silks  or  flour,  from  San-Francisco, 
can  now  be  landed  on  our  streets,  without  change  of  gauge  or  break  of  bulk,  and 
vice-versa,  a  car  of  European  goods  from  Portland  can  be  landed  in  San-Fran- 
cisco; and  also  that,  with  equal  facility,  goods  can  be  moved  to  and  from  our 
city  to  every  part  of  the  United-States  and  Canada." 

OUR  THEATKE9. 

What  a  wonderful  change !  Not  long  ago,  a  theatre  in  Portland  seemed  to 
be  out  of  the  question.  We  had  tried,  over  and  over  again,  year  after  year, 
but  in  vain ;  although  something  would  be  set  up  and  called  a  theatre,  even 
the  "  Portland  Theatre;"  but  after  a  few  convulsive  gasps,  it  would  undergo  a 
change,  and  actually  disappear,  sometimes  for  a  long  period.  But  just  now, 
such  is  the  desire,  such  the  rage  for  theatricals,  that  we  have  not  only  amateur 
clubs,  dramatic-associations  and  itinerant  companies,  wandering  hither  and 
thither  in  our  midst  and  about  our  neighborhood,  but  no  less  than  two  theatri- 
cal companies,  with  two  regularly  organized  theatres,  under  a  different  name, 
to  be  sure,  one  being  "The  Portland-Museum  and  Opera-House,"  in  Fluent's 
Block,  and  the  other  •'  Ward's  Opera-House,"  in  what  used  to  be  known  as 
Music-Hail,  on  Congress-street,  with  a  "grand  Family-Matinee,"  on  every  Satur- 
d&y-afternoon  I  And  all  this,  too,  while  we  have  theatrical  performances  in 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


131 


our  Congress-square  clitirch-vestry  (Universalist),  for  some  charitable  or  other 
purpose.  And  why  this  change  ?  Simply  because,  our  people  have  come  to 
their  senses,  and  are  as  willing  to  hear  a  sermon  from  the  stage,  as  from  the 
platform  or  pulpit,  and  as  ready  to  see  a  sermon  acted  in  a  theatre  —  or  muse- 
um— or  opera-house  —  by  well-behaved  men  and  women,  as  in  the  Plymouth 
Church,  N.  Y.,  or  in  other  ecclesiastical  bodies.  And  this,  too,  without  any 
falling  away,  or  backsliding.  It  is  not  we,  who  have  changed,  but  they,  the 
managers  and  caterers  for  such  institutions.  What  was  once  not  only  tolerated 
upon  the  stage,  by  our  best  people,  but  encouraged,  like  the  Beggar's  Opera,  the 


PORTLAND  MUSEUM  AXD  OPERA-HOUSE. 

Tartuffe,  or  Hypocrite,  the  Fair  Penitent,  and  fifty  others  we  could  name,  have 
passed  away,  and  would  not  be  endured  without  emasculation,  so  that  our 
conscientious  objections  are  no  longer  in  play;  and  then  too,  more  attention  is 
paid  to  the  moral  character  of  players  now ;  and  it  is  no  longer  said,  nor  even 
suggested,  that  we  have  no  more  right  to  complain  of  Portia,  or  Juliets'  repre- 
sentative, though  abandoned  or  shameless,  than  of  a  shoemaker  for  unfaith- 
fulness as  a  husband,  or  misbehavior  generally,  provided  his  workmanship  is 


132  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

what  it  should  be.  This  dangerous  fallacy,  which  served  in  other  days,  would 
not  be  listened  to,  in  our  day.  And  therefore  it  is,  that  some  of  the  sturdiest 
among  the  adversaries  of  theatrical  representations  and  theatres,  have  lately 
undergone — to  all  appearance  —  a  thorough  change  of  opinion — myself  among 
the  number. 

Once,  and  for  many  years,  a  friend  of  theatrical  performances,  though  never 
intimate  with  actors  or  actresses,  nor  ever  an  habitual  frequenter  of  theatres, 
either  abroad  or  at  home,  I  was  led  into  a  severe  criticism  of  certain  actors  and 
actresses,  whose  profligate  behavior  stirred  me  up,  and  exasperated  me,  while 
they  were  continually  urging  the  example  of  Addison,  of  Dr.  Johnson,  of  Dr. 
Young,  or  of  Hannah  Moore,  as  writers  of  plays,  to  justify  their  mis-representation 
of  character,  by  their  private  lives,  which  rendered  their  best  playing,  an  offen- 
sive caricature.  And  then — to  follow  out  some  of  these  changes  —  a  proper 
occasion  having  presented  itself,  and  the  stage  being  occupied  by  men  and 
women  of  good  character — well-behaved  moralists,  if  nothing  more,  I  began  to 
speak  well  of  plays  —  plays  of  the  right  kind,  I  mean,  of  course  —  and  of  actors, 
•where  I  knew  them  to  be  quite  as  good  as  the  rest  of  us.  Whereupon,  my 
excellent  friend  Dr.  Carruthers,  called  on  me  and  remonstrated ;  and  the  conse- 
quence was,  that  I  went  off  upon  quite  another  tack,  and,  without  abandoning 
my  convictions,  or  shuffling,  I  added  a  few  qualifications ;  and  so  far  did  I 
carry  my  love  of  consistancy,  as  a  church-member,  that  I  refused  to  see  the 
performance  of  my  old  friend  Hackett,  whom  I  had  introduced  upon  the  London 
stage,  when  he  came  here  and  played  Falstaff,  his  greatest  character,  and  the 
richest  of  all  his  fine  personations,  if  I  may  judge  by  what  I  have  heard;  for  I 
never  saw  it,  nor  him  afterward. 

But  the  change  has  come,  and  I  am  heartily  glad  of  it.  We  may  have 
preaching  now,  and  the  best  of  preaching  from  the  stage,  as  well  as  from  our 
closets,  or  pulpits ;  and  just  as  there  may  be  silent  preaching,  by  our  daily  walk 
and  conversation,  so  there  may  be,  by  playing. 

A  word  or  two  now  of  our  theatrical  history.  When  I  was  a  boy,  and  a  very 
small  boy,  not  over  eight  or  ten,  I  was  taken  to  our  first  theatre,  near  Union 
Hall,  I  should  say,  where  a  farce,  which  I  have  never  met  with,  nor  heard  of 
since,  BLUE  DEVILS,  was  undergoing  a  representation.  Though  not  much  of 
a  critic,  I  remember  being  sadly  puzzled  by  "me  father,"  and  "O,  me  father!" 
uttered  by  a  pretty  girl,  as  she  clung  to  an  old  white-haired  man,  the  very 
image  of  the  late  James  D.  Hopkins — if  not  James  D.  Hopkins  himself — in 
whose  house,  connected  with  a  rope-walk,  where  the  Hopkins-block  now  stands, 
my  mother  lived. 

But  my  pleasure  was  shortlived  —  "me  father!  O,  me  father!"  being  about 
all  I  heard  of  the  play,  and  all  I  saw,  except  the  light  of  a  candle  which  I  mis- 
took for  a  star,  seen  through  a  heavy  baize  curtain.  I  was  wanted  elsewhere 
it  seemed — having  swindled  my  poor  mother  out  of  her  consent,  by  saying 
that  I  shouldn't  wonder  if  Mr.  Jenks,  the  printer,  for  whom  I  had  done  some 
little  errand,  should  take  me  with  him  to  see  the  play,  whereupon  she  pooh- 
poohed  !  at  my  folly,  in  supposing  such  an  event  within  the  limits  of  possibility, 


PORTLAND    ILLUSTRATED. 


133 


but  did  not  say  no.  And  therefore  I  went.  Being  alarmed  by  my  absence,  how- 
ever, all  at  once  it  popped  into  her  head  that  perhaps  I  had  gone  to  the  devil  in  the 
way  mentioned;  and  so  she  started  a  couple  of  the  "  friends"  on  my  track,  one 
of  whom,  after  hurrying  me  away,  just  as  I  began  to  breathe  freely,  took  me 
down  to  the  old  jail,  then  kept  by  Gibbs,  in  the  rear  of  our  new  City-Hall,  and 
there,  standing  at  the  huge  wooden  gate,  made  believe  all  he  could,  to  frighten 
me — but  he  failed  —  failed  pitibly — and  I  went  home  to  my  dear  mother,  a 
wiser,  if  not  a  sadder  boy. 
Our  next  theatre,  after  many  a  long  year,  was  in  the  Union  Hall  —  but  I 


VIEW  ON  MIDDLE  STREET. 

never  saw  the  inside  of  it;  and  then  our  old  play-goers,  who,  as  business-men, 
believed  that  a  theatre  would  be  a  great  attraction  to  strangers,  got  together,  and 
about  forty  years  ago,  built  a  very  respectable  theatre  on  Free-street,  which  was 
in  full  blast  for  a  season  or  two  —  with  long  intervals  of  rest — and  then  sold  to 
the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  who  purged  it,  as  with  fire,  remodelled  it,  and 
finally  added  a  tall  spire  and  a  handsome  turret,  and  stuccoed  the  front,  and 
made  it  one  of  our  finest  buildings. 


134  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

After  this — many  years  after — Mr.  Francis  O.  J.  Smith,  one  of  our  most 
energetic,  adventurous  and  remarkable  men,  built  a  theatre  for  us  in  Union 
street,  which,  after  awhile,  came  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  John  B.  Brown,  and 
then  into  those  of  his  first  partner  in  business,  Mr.  St.  John  Smith,  another  of 
our  straight-forward,  prosperous  and  wealthy  country-boys. 

And  now,  after  another  long  interval,  during  which  we  have  been  satisfied 
with  occasional  exhibitions  at  our  City  Halls,  both  old  and  new,  and  at  Deering 
Hall,  by  wandering  associations,  we  have  these  two  theatres,  Museums,  or 
Opera-Houses  —  whichever  you  will — to  satisfy  the  reasonable  desires  of  our 
young  men,  and  keep  them  out  of  mischief — to  say  nothing  of  our  old  men  — 
and  very  little  of  the  strangers,  that  are  believed  to  be  on  their  way,  tolled  in, 
or  roped  in,  we  care  not  which,  so  that  they  bring  their  money  and  take  away 
our  goods.  BoA  of  these  houses  are  prettily  finished  and  furnished,  and  very 
creditable  to  our  taste,  and  the  companies  are  said  to  be  fuss-rate,  as  General 
Tom  Thumb  used  to  say,  with  his  little,  cracked,  trumpet-voice. 

OUR   BANKS —  THE   MAINE   SAYINGS. 

On  Exchange-street.  Benjamin  Kingsbury,  jr.,  late  municipal  judge  and 
then  mayor,  president.  Alfred  Burton,  cashier.  Deposits,  and  accumulated 
interest,  nearly  four  millions.  This,  too,  is  an  institution  we  have  reason  to  be 
proud  of.  Carefully  managed,  exceedingly  prosperous,  we  may  be  thankful 
indeed  for  the  security  it  offers  to  the  productive  classes  and  property-holders 
— the  builders  and  mechanics  of  our  city. 

OUK  BANKS  —  THE  NATIONAL  TRADERS. 

A.  K.  Shurtleff,  president  —  another  of  our  earnest  and  faithful  business 
men,  occupying  the  front  second-story  chamber ;  as  it  did  that  of  a  low,  brick 
building  on  Fore-street,  before  the  fire,  with  stairs  outside.  Edward  Gould, 
cashier.  Capital,  $250,000. 

OUR  PRIVATE   BANKING-HOUSES. 

We  never  have  had  a  private  banking-house,  here,  until  Messrs.  John  B. 
Brown  &  Sons,  launched  out  into  a  new  field  of  enterprise,  after  their  enor- 
mous sugar-house  had  been  swept  away,  with  all  of  its  outlying  appendages,  by 
the  great  fire,  and  opened  at  No.  40  Exchange-street — our  Wall-street — in  a 
large,  handsome  building,  put  up  to  order,  by  Mr.  William  W.  Thomas,  of 
pressed  brick,  with  free-stone  trimmings,  iron  pillars,  &c. ;  followed  by  Mr. 
William  N.  Gould,  with  his  private  "BANK  OF  PORTLAND,"  in  a  very  modest, 
unpretending,  though  evidently  profitable  way.  But  we  have  had,  and  still 
have,  brokers,  eminently  trustworthy,  to  supply  certain  of  our  wants,  such  as 
Henry  M.  Payson,  32  Exchange-street,  Swan  &  Barrett,  100  Middle-street,  and 
William  E.  Wood,  61  Exchange-street,  all  bankers  in  their  way, 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


135 


BOOK  STOKES — BAILEY  AND  NO  YES. 

We  have  already  had  occasion  to  say  a  few  words,  about  this  fine  establish- 
ment, but,  having  had  our  attention  called  to  it  afresh,  we  find  that  we  have 
not  done  the  parties  full  justice. 

In  the  first  place,  the  store  itself  is  one  of  the  largest,  handsomest,  and  most 
conveniently  arranged  business-establishments  of  the  kind,  in  all  the  United 
States. 

In  the  next  place  —  to  be  more  particular  —  the  building  itself  occupies  the 


BAILEY  &  NOYES"   BLOCK. 


ground  of  two  large  deep  stores  on  Exchange-street  —  the  Wall-street  of  Port- 
land —  is  three  stories  high,  with  a  French  roof,  and  built  of  pressed-brick,  with 
iron  caps  and  Albert-stone  sills  and  trimmings. 

The  Sales-room  on  the  ground  floor  is  believed  to  be,  and  undoubtedly  is,  the 
finest  bookstore  in  Maine,  with  an  overflow  of  all  that  is  precious  in  literature. 


136  PORTLAND    ILLUSTRATED. 

In  the  third  place,  the  finish  throughout  is  very  beautiful,  heing  of  carved 
walnut,  chestnut  and  butternut  woods,  just  such  as  Michaux,  in  his  North 
American  Sylva,  first  called  our  attention  to,  as  a  mine  of  wealth,  and  a  trea- 
sury of  taste,  in  comparison  with  which  the  foreign  woods  we  have  heretofore 
used  so  abundantly  are  but  rubbish  in  many  cases,  and  even  the  best,  not  so 
beautiful  as  our  commonest  native-growth  —  the  birds-eye  maple  and  black  ash 
for  example.  Here  you  find  a  collection  of  authors  in  most  of  the  languages 
now  in  use ;  with  all  kinds  of  stationery,  account-books,  writing  papers  of  the 
most  beautiful  tinting,  perfumed  note  paper,  and  all  the  luxuries  of  boudoir, 
office,  and  counting-room. 

On  the  second  floor,  they  have  a  constant  supply  of  the  Chickering  pianos, 
and  of  Mason  and  Hamlin's  Cabinet  Organs,  of  the  best  character  and  most 
beautiful  workmanship — this  firm,  being  the  exclusive  agents  for  both,  in  this 
part  of  our  country. 

Up  another  flight,  you  find  yourself  in  a  large  hall,  given  over  to  the  exhibi- 
tion of  paper-hangings  of  all  patterns,  colors  and  prices. 

And  finally,  on  mounting  to  another  story,  you  enter  one  of  the  largest  and 
best  arranged  book-binderies  of  New-England,  superintended  by  Mr.  George  S. 
Bailey,  and  turning  out  a  large  quantity  of  the  best  work  that  can  be  done 
by  skilled  workmen,  with  machinery  and  brains  for  whatever  may  be  wanted. 

EAGLE   SUGAK-EEFIXERY. 

John  Sparrow,  President;  John  Sparrow,  G.  S.  Hunt  and  J.  W.  Williams, 
Directors.  Geo.  S.  Hunt  &  Co.,  selling  agents. 

It  is  only  within  a  few  years,  eight  or  ten  perhaps,  that  we  have  meddled 
with  the  business  of  refining  sugar ;  and  this,  notwithstanding  our  large  Cuba 
trade,  amounting  almost  to  a  monopoly,  and  though  dull  now,  on  account  of 
the  domestic  troubles  in  that  most  beautiful  island,  quite  sure  to  revive  with 
the  first  signs  of  tranquility  there. 

The  Eagle  Sugar-Refinary  was  incorporated  in  1833,  with  an  allowed  capital 
of  $250,000.  They  manufacture  sugars  from  molasses  only,  and  have  a  wide 
reputation  for  what  are  called  C  —  C  C  —  and  extra  C  sugars. 

The  process  is  by  boiling  in  vacua,  and  purging  with  centrifugal  machinery. 
They  are  able  to  turn  out  the  product  of  from  seventy  to  eighty  hhds.  per  day, 
yielding  about  twenty  tons  of  sugar;  and  now  it  is  said  that  their  full  time 
capacity  is  all  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  hhds.  a  day. 

Take  it  altogether,  by  and  large,  as  the  sailors  say,  this  Company  may  be 
justly  regarded  as  at  least  equal  to  any  in  the  United  States.  It  is  not  a  kiln- 
drying  operation — steam  only  is  employed  —  and  no  fires  are  used,  except  for 
the  boiler,  which  generates  all  the  steam  required  throughout  the  works.  It 
may  be  worthy  of  especial  mention,  that  a  committee  of  the  New- York  under- 
writers, who  went  through  the  land  for  purposes  connected  with  their  business, 
decided,  after  a  thorough  examination,  that  the  Portland  Eagle  Sugar-Eefinery 
was  beyond  all  question,  the  best  establishment  of  the  kind  they  had  ever 
seen. 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


137 


After  a  course  of  patient  and  careful,  and  it  may  well  be  supposed,  of  costly 
experiment,  the  works  were  remodelled,  in  1869,  and  such  improvements  were 
introduced,  as  enabled  them  to  double  their  producing  power.  As  already  men- 
tioned, their  sugar  is  made  from  molasses,  and  not  refined  sugars — and  the 
process  being  now  well  understood,  and  justly  appreciated — not  kiln-boiling, 
but  steam  boiling — the  product  bears  a  ready  market-value  for  all  they  can 
furnish. 

They  furnish  eleven  grades  of  sugar  to  satisfy  the  continually  increasing 
demands  of  the  market,  and  these  range  from  nearly  white,  down  to  a  dark 


EAGLE  SUGAK  REFISERY. 

yellow,  and  all  are  kept  to  a  scrupulous  unchanging  standard,  so  that  purchas- 
ers may  always  be  sure  of  what  they  order.  The  process  itself  is  known  as  the 
centrifugal,  and  is  everywhere  valued  for  the  safety  and  quickness  of  its  ope- 
rations. 

The  sugars  are  barreled  off  on  the  fifth  day  after  the  molasses  is  received. 
The  machinery  is  very  beautiful  and  ingenious.  There  are  twenty-four  centri- 
fugals in  the  lower  story ;  ten  vacuum-pumping  engines,  two  vacuum  pans, 
two  steam-boilers,  each  of  two  hundred  horse-power. 

About  two  thousand  hhds.  of  water  are  used  every  day  for  condensing  the 
vapor  which  rises  from  the  vacuum  pans.  The  boiling  is  done  at  a  temperature 


138  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

as  low  as  120°,  with  a  vacuum  of  twenty-eight  inches ;  which  is  indicated  by 
exceedingly  delicate  instruments  attached  to  the  pans.  At  any  time,  the  water 
pumps  can  be  turned  on  and  used  as  force-pumps.  The  steam-pump  has  a  ca- 
pacity equal  to  that  of  two  steam  fire-engines,  and  150  feet  of  hose  are  always 
ready  for  use.  The  furnace  is  set  on  a  brick  floor,  and  the  steam  pumps  are 
all  covered  with  asbestos. 

No  steam-pipe  runs  nearer  than  four  inches  to  any  wood-work ;  and  where 
the  pipes  run  through  the  floor,  they  are  set  in  tin  plates,  and  tin  is  freely  used. 
throughout  the  building,  wherever  there  are  any  pipes.  The  works  are  abun- 
dantly lighted  from  the  skies,  and  gas  only  used  in  the  office  and  one  other 
place,  near  a  stairway  to  the  basement.  The  walls  are  protected  with  iron, 
and  the  whole  interior  made  undeniably  safe.  The  machinery  is  in  perfect 
order — and  always  kept  so  —  the  store-room  is  fire-proof,  and  the  pan-room 
carefully  watched.  The  store  is  about  twenty  feet  in  the  rear  of  the  main 
buildings,  which  are  of  brick,  and  here  it  is  that  the  molasses  is  stored  until 
wanted. 

CUE  PORTLAND  MECHANICS  AXD  APPKEXTICES. 

Last  evening,  Sept.  30,  we  had  a  great  gathering  of  our  mechanics  at  the 
seventeenth  triennial,  of  the  Maine  Charitable-Mechanic  Association ;  and  a 
supper  worthy  of  the  occasion,  with  speeches,  toasts,  songs,  and  lots  of  me- 
chanics' wives,  daughters  and  sweethearts,  to  make  it  pleasant  for  strangers. 

Out  of  debt — wholly  oat  of  debt  —  with  a  building,  worth  to-day,  nearer  a 
hundred  and  twenty-five  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars,  than  what 
it  cost  in  1856,  with  the  land  —  that  is,  ninety  thousand  dollars;  with  a  library 
of  four  thousand  volumes,  a  clear  income  of  four  thousand  dollars  a  year,  and 
about  to  organize  a  school  of  design,  for  the  mechanical  arts  in  all  branches, 
free  of  access  to  all  who  come  properly  introduced — what  may  not  be  hoped 
from  the  mechanics  of  Portland,  hereafter  ? 

Compare  the  public,  ay,  and  the  private-buildings  of  our  city,  put  up  within 
a  few  years,  just  before  and  since  the  fire,  and  going  up  now  in  every  part, 
with  all  that  had  been  done  before,  and  then  say  whether  Portland  has  not  re- 
deemed herself,  and  acquired  imperishable  honor,  by  her  enterprize  and  thrift, 
her  ambition  and  her  taste.  And  this,  be  it  remembered,  is  mainly  the  work 
of  our  mechanics.  Having  associated  together  in  1815,  under  great  difficulty 
and  discouragement,  only  fifty-seven  in  all,  they  persevered  through  evil  report 
and  through  good  report,  undergoing  the  trials  common  to  all  our  producing 
classes,  and  all  our  property-holders,  during  the  war  of  1812  to  1815  —  with  all 
that  preceeded  and  all  that  followed,  the  wasting  of  our  heritage  by  embargoes, 
non-importation  acts,  and  non-intercourse  acts  —  until  they  had  built  for 
themselves  and  their  children's  children,  in  perpetuity,  that  noble  monument, 
the  Mechanics'-Hall. 

We  had  a  capital  summary  view  of  its  past  history,  in  the  address  of  Mr. 
Charles  P.  Kimball,  the  late  gubernatorial  candidate  of  our  two-fisted,  strong 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


139 


hearted  democracy,  and  were  not  a  little  gratified  to  learn,  that,  for  a  long 
time,  though  not  from  the  first,  when  the  bells  rang  out  their  eleven  o'clock 
and  four  o'clock  invitation  to  the  grog-shop  or  the  rum-jug — but  for  many 
years,  their  constitution  denied  membership  to  all  drinking-men,  without 
waiting  till  they  became  drunkards  by  profession ;  for  this  association,  there- 
fore, it  was  claimed,  not  by  Mr.  Kimball,  alone,  but  by  others,  that  they  began 
the  temperance  counter-march,  to  sobriety,  which  has  ended  —  where  we  find  it 
now.  But  Mr.  Oliver  Gerrish,  one  of  its  oldest  members,  informed  us  that  the  re- 
form originated  in  the  Ancient-Landmark  Lodge,  of  Free-and- Accepted  masons, 
long  before  1815 — about  1807,  he  thinks.  Be  it  so.  Whenever  it  begun  — and 


VIEW  COKNEB  OF  BKOWN  AND  CONGRESS-STREETS. 

whoever  began  it — great  good  has  been  accomplished,  and  not  a  little  mischief, 
by  over-doing,  and  by  attempting  impossibilities,  by  combining  politics  with 
temperance,  and  forgeting  the  injunction,  to  be  temperate  in  all  things. 

A  son  of  Captain  Coyle,  with  a  rich,  ponderous  voice,  well  worth  remembering, 
was  persuaded  to  give  us  a  song — one  verse  of  which,  canonized  the  wine-cup, 
as  did  most  of  the  songs,  in  use  fifty  years  ago  —  and  though  he  apologized  hand- 


140  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

somely,  yet,  when  called  out  by  a  vociferous  encore,  many  times  repeated,  he 
gave  us  another,  in  praise  of  beer,  of  malt,  and  hops,  and  brown  stout,  as  the  ali- 
ment of  our  fathers,  the  Gods  of  the  Sea.     Of  course,  all  the  hearty,  generous, 
old-fashioned  tipplers,  whether  of  beer,  ale,  brown-stout,  Santa-Cruz,  or  Jamai- 
ca, or  Holland-gin,  will  remember  the  doctrines  that  were  always  to  be  heard 
on  festivals,  election-day,  and  fourth  of  July — 
"If  any  pain  or  care  remain, 
Let's  drown  it  in  the  bowl." 

For  example;  or 

"Delightful  days  of  whim  and  soul, 

When  mingling  love  and  laugh  together, 
"We  leaned  the  book  on  Pleasures'  bowl, 
And  turned  the  leaf  with  Folly's  feather. 
&c.,  &c. 

And  when  John  Pierpont — that  apostleof  temperance  —  wrote  "thyglassmay 
be  purple  and  mine  may  be  blue,"  upon  a  question  of  theology,  while  he  gave  up 
Beecherism  for  Unitarianism. 

But  our  friends  of  the  Maine  Charitable  Mechanic- Association,  must  not  be 
left  here.  In  addition  to  their  pledge,  now  about  to  be  redeemed,  quietly,  and 
unostentatiously,  to  establish  a  school  of  design,  for  the  help  of  beginners  and 
strangers,  who  need  instruction,  as  a  capital  to  enter  life  with,  so  that  they 
may  not  only  design,  but  execute,  hereafter,  with  a  full  understanding  of  me- 
chanics, of  properties,  of  the  strength  of  material,  and  of  safety  from  fire — in 
addition  to  this  —  they  have  almost  pledged  themselves  —  would  we  might  say  not 
only  almostbnt,  altogether,  as  Paul  did  —  to  revive,  or,  at  any  rate,  to  establish  a 
liberal  system  of  apprenticeship,  so  that  the  rash  and  presumptuous  boys  maybe 
helped,  who  are  now  turned  loose  upon  society,  after  a  few  months  worried  away 
in  some  mechanical  trade,  only  to  spoil  whatever  they  undertake  —  at  half 
price  —  and  at  quarter-work,  until,  in  the  hurry  of  business,  they  supersede  our 
skilled  workmen.  Ignorant,  perhaps,  of  the  very  elements  of  the  trade  they 
profess — the  verv  alphabet — they  rush  headlong  into  business  for  themselves, 
underbid  others  who  have  gone  through  a  long  course  of  training,  if  not  of  regu- 
lar apprenticeship — or  as  journeymen.  Of  this  great  evil — evil  to  the  young 
men  who  are  honestly  disposed  to  earn  their  own  living,  and  evil  to  the  com- 
munity, Mr.  Kimball  spoke  earnestly,  and  with  his  large  experience,  in  a  way 
to  produce  a  profound  impression.  To  hear  some  people  talk  about  the  labor- 
ing or  productive  classes,  one  would  almost  believe,  that  they  had  never  heard  of 
our  great  Master,  who  chose  fishermen  for  apprentices,  and  was  himself  a  car- 
penter, nor  of  Paul,  the  tent-maker. 

OUB  COUNTBY-BOYS  —  DEVELOPED. 

Everywhere — in  all  the  cities  and  commercial-centres  of  our  country,  at  any 
rate,  if  no  where  else  —  they  have  their  A.  T.  Stewarts  and  Cornelius  Vander- 
bilts,  and  a  class  of  leading  business-men  and  professionals,  lawyers,  doctors 
and  preachers,  who  were  born  and  bred  in  the  country ;  men  who  labored  in 
their  boyhood,  up  to  man's  estate,  and  learned  to  breathe  freely,  without  much 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


141 


help,  until  they  began  to  feel  acquainted  with  themselves,  and  to  find  out,  by  little 
and  little,  what  they  were  good  for  —  and  then  hopped  the  twig  —  and  launched 
forth  into  God's  free  air,  and  became,  after  a  few  years,  the  foremost  among 
their  fellows. 

We  have  a  hundred  or  two  of  such  men  among  us ;  and  nothing  would  gratify 
us  more  than  to  read  their  biographies  —  their  auto-biographies,  if  you  will  — 
to  follow  them,  step  by  step,  through  their  preparatory  exercises,  in  the  country 
school-house,  wading  through  snow  drifts  up  to  their  necks,  or  in  the  dark 


VIEW  ON  CONGBE8S-STHEET. 

wilderness,  getting  out  wood  for  the  winter,  and  cutting  and  splitting  the  knot- 
tiest and  most  unmanageable  of  logs,  like  so  many  playthings,  till  they  lay 
piled  in  heaps,  for  oven,  wood,  and  so  on,  up — and  up  —  and  up — until  we 
find  them  Presidents  of  Banks,  clothed  in  purple  and  fine  linen,  and  faring 
sumptuously  every  day,  the  acknowledged  leaders  in  all  great  enterprises  of 
the  day. 
Among  these,  and  the  very  first  that  occurs  to  our  recollection,  for  we  have 


142  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

known  them  well,  from  their  first  coming  to  Portland,  are  John  B.  Brown,  of 
Lancaster,  New  Hampshire  —  we  do  not  like  to  say  the  Honorable  John  B. 
Brown,  nor  John  B.  Brown,  Esquire,  for  such  every-day  embellishments  add 
nothing  to  the  value  of  such  men  —  and  St.  John  Smith,  once  co-partners  in 
trade  here,  and  keeping  a  small  country-store — for  it  was  nothing  else,  even 
here  —  in  Morton's  Block,  on  Middle,  now  Congress-street,  just  above  the  Long- 
fellow mansion,  bartering  their  groceries  for  hoop-poles  and  shocks,  country- 
produce  and  all  sorts  of  truck,  as  they  do,  away  up  in  Oxford. 

It  seems  they  were  both  in  the  same  store  as  shop-boys,  at  Gray,  if  I  do  not 
mistake  the  place,  a  small,  quiet  village,  about  fifteen  miles  from  Portland. 
After  getting  well  acquainted  with  the  business — such  as  it  was  —  and  with  the 
farmers  in  all  that  region,  such  as  they  were  —  they  began  to  hear  "The  night- 
mare moaning  of  Ambitious  breast,"  and  forthwith  pulled  up  stakes,  and  started 
for  Portland,  Smith  to  enter  a  small  shop,  or  store,  on  Exchange-street,  where 
his  uncle,  Eliphalet  Smith,  one  of  our  old-fashioned  retail  haberdashers,  had 
grown  rusty  over  pins  and  needles,  quality-bindings  and  cheap  calicoes.  What 
Brown  took  to  for  a  season,  I  never  knew ;  but  when  I  returned  from  abroad, 
after  an  absence  from  Portland  of  a  dozen  years,  or  so,  I  found  them  both  in 
business  together  as  Smith  and  Brown,  and  evidently  prospering,  though  in  a 
small  way,  compared  with  what  they  have  done  separately,  since  their  separation. 

And  the  result  has  been,  after  a  busy  life  of  about  fifty  years,  that  Mr.  Smith 
is  one  of  our  largest  real-estate  holders,  with  handsome  blocks  of  stores  and 
houses  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  and  his  fellow  shop-boy,  not  only  one  of 
our  largest,  but  I  am  inclined  to  believe  the  largest  property-holder  among  us  — 
paying  a  tax  for  himself  of  twenty  thousand  dollars;  owning  many  blocks  of 
stores  among  our  handsomest  and  best,  and  one  block  of  dwelling-houses,  if  no 
more,  a  large,  beautifully  ornamented,  and  highly  cultivated  domain,  away  up 
on  Bramhall-Hill,  with  what  deserves  to  be  called  a  chateau,  or  villa,  occupied 
by  himself,  and  with  a  cluster  of  tasteful  habitations,  occupied  by  his  children, 
all  within  half  rifle-shot  of  their  father. 

And  now,  just  now,  we  find  him  building  another  block,  of  four  large,  hand- 
some, brick-stores,  on  Cross-street,  100  by  74  feet — a  large  manufacturing  ware- 
house on  Union-street,  and  filling  up  a  large  district  on  the  water-side,  where 
no  less  than  three  wharves,  belonging  to  him,  are  now  fully  occupied,  Brown's 
wharf,  the  Berlin  Mill's  wharf,  and  Merchants'  wharf;  to  all  these,  and  from 
one  to  another,  he  is  also  laying  railways;  whereby,  uninterrupted  com- 
munication may  be  kept  up,  with  all  our  leading  railways,  and  with  our 
great  lumbering-region.  But  enough  —  are  not  such  men  worth  mentioning, 
while  they  are  yet  alive,  and  busy  among  us  ?  or  would  you  have  them  and  us 
wait  for  an  obituary  notice  ? 

And  then  we  have  T.  C.  Hersey,  a  former  partner  of  St.  John  Smith,  and 
one  of  our  most  faithful,  earnest  and  thoroughbred  business-men,  among  the 
foremost  of  those  indeed,  who  have  introduced  large  manufacturing-associa- 
tions among  us. 

And  the  two  Springs,  Andrew  and  Samuel  E.,  both  country-boys,  and  both 


PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED. 


143 


among  our  foremost  business-men;  and  the  two  Joses,  Horatio  N.,  and  Charles 
E.  —  and  George  W.  Woodman  —  and  William  Deering — and  William  H.  Milli- 
ken  —  and  the  two  Storers,  Horace  P.,  and  Frederick,  and  the  two  Libbys, 
Harrison  L,  president  of  the  First  National-Bank,  and  James  B. ;  and  Shurt- 
leff,  Ambrose  K.,  president  of  the  National  Traders' -Bank,  all  of  the  back 
country  growth,  and  all  men  to  be  proud  of — to  say  nothing  of  our  town-bred 
property-holders,  and  bank-presidents,  who  are  not  among  those  who  die  of 
sheer  inanition,  or  live,  rubbing  their  shins,  or  twirling  their  thumbs,  and  com- 
plaining—  or  murmuring — at  all  the  ways  of  Providence;  lamenting  the  good 


VIEW  0^  MIDDLE  STEEET, 

old  times,  and  thinking  only  of  their  misfortunes,  of  their  losses  and  trials,  and 
disappointments  and  sorrows,  but  never  of  their  comforts  and  blessings  and 
deliverances  and  exemptions  —  of  whom  we  have  enough  and  to  spare  among 
some  of  our  thriftiest  old  good-for-nothings,  who,  if  the  truth  must  be  spoken, 
have  no  business  here.  But  enough  —  we  must  draw  the  line  somewhere,  else 
we  should  only  be  filling  out  a  catalogue  of  mere  names,  Without  a  word  to  dis- 
tinguish one  from  another,  which  would  never  do  —  Portland  is  not  to  be 
illustrated  in  that  way ;  and  therefore,  we  must  be  satisfied  with  a  few  stero- 
scopic-views  and  a  turn  or  two  of  the  kaleidescope,  however  much  we  may 
desire  to  deal  with  scores  who  have  not  been  mentioned,  and  whom  we  have  no 
space  for  mentioning  here. 


144  PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED. 

GRAND  ABMY  OF  THE  REPUBLIC. 

A  Fair  has  just  been  opened  in  our  City-Building,  for  the  help  of  this  most 
praiseworthy  organization.  An  address  was  delivered  last  evening,  brief  and 
comprehensive,  by  Charles  P.  Kimball,  who  had  been  greatly  conspicuous 
at  the  very  outbreak  of  the  rebellion,  by  introducing  an  order,  which  passed 
the  City  Council,  providing  for  the  support  of  the  families  of  volunteers ;  and 
being  himself  what  we  have  called  a  war-democrat,  we  had,  and  still  have, 
all  the  more  reason  for  thankfulness ;  for  who  can  over-estimate  the  influence 
of  such  a  resolution,  at  such  a  time,  by  such  a  man,  throughout  this  whole 
region  ? 

From  this  address,  remarkable  alike  for  its  unpretending  truthfulness  and 
simplicity,  we  have  taken  several  passages,  which  embody  an  amount  of  infor- 
mation respecting  our  first  movements  in  Portland,  not  elsewhere  to  be  found, 
and  of  such  a  nature,  as  to  well  deserve  a  more  permanent  shape,  so  much 
does  it  concern  the  character  of  our  people,  as  a  self-sacrificing  community, 
energetic,  prompt  and  faithful  in  the  discharge  of  their  obligations  to  their 
beloved  country. 

On  hearing  that  fires  had  been  opened  upon  Fort  Sumpter,  the  outrage  was 
felt,  like  an  earthquake  throughout  the  land.  Our  whole  population  sprang  to 
their  feet ;  and  the  following  passage  will  show  something  of  the  stir  that  fol- 
lowed : 

"  Sunday,  April  21st,  was  one  of  the  most  exciting  days  of  the  war.  A  public 
meeting  assembled  in  front  of  the  old  City-Hall  that  could  be  numbered  by 
thousands,  from  a  notice  of  less  than  two  hours ;  speeches  were  made  by  C.  C. 
Woodman,  Wm.  P.  Fessenden,  F.  O.  J.  Smith  and  Albion  Witham,  and  one 
other.  This  was  the  first  great  war  meeting  in  Portland ;  but  one  feeling  pre- 
vailed, and  that  was  to  defend  the  flag  and  to  stand  by  the  government  and  the 
constitution." 

On  the  22d  of  April,  the  Legislature  came  together,  and  Governor  Washburn, 
our  present  Collector,  sent  in  a  message — or  delivered  an  address — which  was 
received  with  a  transport  of  enthusiasm. 

"  Immediately  at  its  close  Mr.  Gould,  of  Thomaston,  one  of  the  ablest  and 
most  prominent  Democrats  of  the  State,  introduced  a  resolution  pledging  the 
entire  resources  of  the  State  in  men  and  money  to  the  vigorous  support  of  the 
government  in  an  effort  to  put  down  the  rebellion." 

And  this  pledge  was  gloriously  redeemed. 

"The  Legislature  promptly  responded  to  the  patriotic  recommendations  of 
the  Governor  and  the  wishes  of  the  people.  Gen.  Veazie,  of  Bangor,  tendered 
the  State  a  loan  of  $50,000 ;  other  banks  and  bankers  promptly  followed.  En- 
listments went  on  as  they  never  did  before,  and  probably  never  will  again.  The 
excitement  continued  to  be  intense.  Business  was  neglected  or  at  a  stand  still. 
The  calm,  dignified  Judge  Davis  adjourned  the  supreme  judicial  court  on  the 
23d  day  of  April,  stating  that  his  mind  was  so  pressed  with  the  cause  of  his 
country  that  he  felt  he  was  unfit  to  try  a  case.  He  had  no  doubt  the  lawyers, 
clients  and  jury  felt  the  same." 

The  generous  contagion  spread  like  a  prairie-fire. 

"  Troops  began  to  pour  into  Portland  from  this  section  of  the  State.  The 
Norway  Light  Infantry,  Capt.  Beals,  I  think,  were  the  first  to  arrive,  and  they 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED.  145 

were  received  by  our  citizens  and  soldiers  with  great  enthusiasm  and  admiration. 

"  The  first  regiment  was  speedily  formed  and  went  into  camp,  and  were  soon 
mustered  into  the  United  States  service.  And  then,  for  the  first  time,  the 
stern  duties  and  regulation  of  United  States  soldiers  were  required  of  them. 
They  were  not  then  allowed  to  spend  a  portion  of  their  days  and  nights  with 
their  families." 

And  then  followed  the  arrangements  heretofore  mentioned. 

"  They  soon  began  to  realize  they  were  soldiers  indeed,  and  the  thought  of 
leaving  their  families  began  to  haunt  them.  The  money  they  had  left  at  home 
would  soon  be  gone,  then  who  would  care  for  the  wife  and  children  ?  How 
well  I  remember  those  sad  days,  and  how  I  pray  to  God  I  may  never  see  their 
like  again.  The  feeling  of  the  soldiers  soon  reached  the  people  and  the  city 
authorities.  Mayor  Thomas  called  a  special  meeting  of  the  City  Council  to  see 
what  action  they  would  take  looking  to  the  care  of  these  families. 

"  One  of  the  aldermen  introduced  an  order  appropriating  the  sum  of  ten 
thousand  dollars  for  the  aid  of  the  wives  and  children  of  the  soldiers  from  this 
city.  This  order  was  unanimously  passed,  and  a  committee  of  both  branches 
of  the  city  government  was  appointed  to  carry  out  the  provisions  of  the  order, 
and  I  say  with  pride  for  this  city,  that  I  know  the  work  was  faithfully  done." 

The  alderman  referred  to  here  was  but  one  of  many  who  began  to  feel  their 
accountability ;  and  10,000  dollars  to  begin  with  was  no  trifle  at  the  time,  though 
we  thought  nothing  of  hundreds  of  thousands  after  awhile. 

"But,"  continues  Mr.  Kimball, 

"The  same  evening,  a  member  of  the  Common  Council  offered,  and  the 
Council  passed,  a  resolution  saying  to  all  the  men  that  had  or  should  hereafter 
enlist,  that  we  should  consider  (heir  families  as  children  of  the  city.  I  am  thus 
particular  that  you  may  plainly  see,  under  what  fair  premises  and  pledges, 
those  brave  men,  who  had  heart  and  courage  enough  to  lay  down  their  lives  for 
their  country,  left  their  beloved  wives  and  precious  children.  How  well  I  re- 
member the  warm  pressure  of  their  hand,  as  they  tearfully  left  their  homes  to 
fight,  that  you  and  I  might  enjoy  the  blessings  of  this  free  country.  And  how 
feelingly  they  would  say  to  you,  meaning  the  people  of  this  city:  'We  leave  our 
wives,  our  children,  our  loved  ones,  all  in  your  care.  See  to  it  that  they  do  not 
suffer  at  your  hands.'  Friends,  have  we  done  all  for  them  we  promised,  all 
that  they  desire  ?  We  have  done  much  for  which  God  will  bless  us  a  thousand 
fold,  but  much  more  needs  to  be  done.  Shall  we  shrink  from  our  duty  now, 
or  go  on  ? 

"At  last,  a  sense  of  this  great  and  solemn  obligation  began  to  be  felt  in  the 
hearts  of  our  people,  far  and  wide,  all  over  the  land ;  and  in  1865,  an  organiza- 
tion, calling  itself  THE  GRAXD  ARMY  OF  THE  REPUBLIC,  sprang  up,  in 
golden  panoply  complete.  Originating  at  Decatur,  Illinois,  and  beginning  with 
a  representation  of  eleven  States  only,  which  organized  the  first  National 
Encampment,  Nov.  30,  1866,  it  went  on,  till  in  December,  1867,  twenty-one 
States  were  represented  at  the  Pennsylvania  Convention,  with  a  membership  of 
over  200,000,  which  has  been  constantly  increasing. 

"The  Department  of  Maine  was  organized  January,  1868,  and  now  we  have 
twenty-one  posts,  in  the  most  perfect  working  order." 

But  enough  —  the  address  itself  was  worthy  of  the  occasion,  and  the  Fair, 
with  all  its  contributions,  and  attractive  arrangements,  something  to  be  proud 
of,  and  thankful  for,  not  only  now,  but  hereafter.  Let  all  the  people  say 
Amen! 

If  you  would  know  more  particularly,  what  Portland  accomplished  during 
the  war,  from  the  very  outbreak  to  the  end,  when  her  maimed  and  scarred 


146  PORTLAND  ILLUSTRATED. 

veteran  survivors  returned  in  triumph  to  their  homes,  and  took  their  places 
among  us,  just  as  if  nothing  had  happened,  look  at  pages  120-122.  The  history 
of  the  world  contains  nothing  to  be  compared  with  what  followed  the  disband- 
.  ing  of  our  armies.  Instead  of  levying  contributions  all  along  our  highways ; 
instead  of  over-running  the  land  with  banditti  and  thieves,  ravishers,  house- 
breakers and  pillagers,  our  soldiers  went  back  to  their  business,  to  their 
workshops  and  counters  and  counting-rooms,  at  the  first  tap  of  the  drum  — 
ready  to  re-appear,  if  wanted  at  the  second  tap,  as  they  had  over  and  over  again, 
during  the  war,  after  being  relieved  on  furlough,  a  hundred  thousand  at 
once.  Of  a  truth,  one  hardly  knows  which  most  to  wonder  at,  their  bravery  in 
battle,  their  patience  under  the  wrongs  and  outrages  of  the  prison-houses,  or 
their  immediate  acquiescence  in  the  order  of  its  change,  or  their  amazing  self- 
control  and  self-respect,  as  manifested  on  their  return  to  civil  life. 

WESTBROOK  SEMINARY. 

We  are  indebted  to  a  friend  for  the  following  account  of  another  institution, 
which  has  done  much,  and  promises  more. 

"The  Westbrook  Seminary  had  its  birth  in  a  resolution  passed  by  the  Kenne- 
bec  Association  of  Universalists,  in  its  annual  session  at  Greene,  Sept.  29, 
1830." — Rev.  Wm.  A.  Drew,  in  Gospel  Banner  of  April,  1870. 

"This  Convention  provided  for  a  meeting  at  Westbrook,  to  take  into  consid- 
eration the  matter  of  a  classical  school,  or  Seminary,  'digest  a  plan  for  the  same,' 
and  taking  measures  for  accomplishing  the  object.  Kevs.  W.  A.  Drew,  of  Au- 
gusta ;  S.  Brimblecom,  of  Norridgewock ;  W.  I.  Reese,  of  Portland ;  Hons.  C. 
Holland,  of  Canton;  J.  Dunn,  jr.,  of  Poland;  S.  Gardiner,  of  Bowdoinham; 
Elisha  Harding,  of  Union;  Maj.  J.  Russ,  of  Farmington;  Dr.  A.  Pierce,  of 
Greene ;  Gens.  Thomas  Todd,  of  Portland,  and  J.  Herrick,  of  Hampden,  were 
appointed  to  address  the  public  upon  the  subject.  There  was  considerable  dis- 
cussion in  this  convention,  as  to  location ;  Waterville,  Winthrop  and  Westbrook, 
were  named,  but  finally,  as  there  was  no  similar  institution  in  New  England 
(or  indeed,  as  far  as  known,  in  the  world),  it  was  thought  to  make  the  school 
as  accessible  as  might  be,  to  Massachusetts  and  New  Hampshire,  and  it  was 
established  at  Westbrook.  According  to  appointment,  a  meeting  was  holden  at 
Stevens'  Plains,  Oct.  27,  1830,  Dan.  Read,  of  Lewiston,  was  chosen  president, 
and  Daniel  Winslow,  of  Portland,  secretary.  It  was  voted  to  adopt  a  constitu- 
tion, and  petition  the  next  Legislature  for  an  act  of  incorporation.  This  was 
obtained,  and  the  Westbrook  Seminary  incorporated,  and  the  following  trustees 
appointed:  J.  C.  Churchill,  F.  O.  J.  Smith,  Daniel  Winslow,  Nathan  Nutter, 
Wm.  Slemmons,  Moses  Quinby,  Josiah  Dunn,  W.  A.  Drew,  D.  McCobb,  G.  W. 
Tinker,  Alfred  Pierce.  These,  with  others  allowed  by  the  Charter,  met  the 
following  May,  and  organized  as  follows:  Hon.  J.  C.  Churchill,  president, 
Daniel  Winslow,  vice-president  and  secretary,  Hon.  F.  O.  J.  Smith,  treasurer. 
The  Universalist  convention,  which  met  in  June,  at  Farmington  Falls,  endors- 
ed the  plan  and  purpose,  and  appointed  Rev.  Messrs.  Drew  and  Brimblecom , 
to  address  'our  Religious  public,'  on  the  subject.  Mr.  Brimblecom,  was  at 
that  time  in  charge  of  the  parish  at  Stevens'  Plains,  and  was  one  of  the  most 


!48  PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 

earnest  workers  in  collecting  funds,  and  pushing  the  matters  of  the  Seminary 
toward  completion.  He  was  at  that  time  associate  editor  of  the  Christian 
Pilot,  and  mentions  in  the  issue  of  May  23,  1833,  that  'the  building  is  now  in 
progress.'  In  the  spring  of  1834,  a  'brick-building,  37x70,  two  stories  high, 
with  a  cupola,'  was  erected  on  land  generously  given  by  Z.  B.  Stevens,  and  O. 
Buckley,  Esq.  Cost  of  building  about  $7000. 

"The  first  term  commenced  June  9,  1834,  with  Rev.  Samuel  Brimblecom, 
principal,  Rev.  Alvin  Dinsmore,  assistant.  Board  was  secured  in  private 
families,  in  the  neighborhood,  at  $1.25  to  $1.75  per  week.  Mr.  Brimblecom  re- 
signed in  the  fall  of  1836.  Between  this  time  and  1839,  Mr.  Furbush  had 
charge  of  the  school,  a  portion  of  the  time.  In  1839,  John  K.  True,  was  chosen 
principal,  and  remained  until  Dec.  1842 ;  to  him  the  following  principals  suc- 
ceeded. 1843,  Moses  B.  Walker,  and  Geo.  W.  True ;  1844,  E.  P.  Hines ;  1846, 
G.  "W.  Bradford;  1849,  Rev.  L.  L.  Record;  1851,  Mr.  Nathaniel  Hatch.  Rev. 
J.  P.  Weston,  came  to  the  charge,  in  March,  1853.  The  school  had  been  closed 
for  several  terms,  and  was  in  a  very  low  state.  Mr.  Weston  gave  it  new  life, 
and  it  began  to  show  permanent  strength. 

"Chiefly  through  Mr.  Weston's  untiring  efforts,  money  was  raised  for  build- 
ing and  furnishing  Goddard-Hall.  He  resigned  in  the  fall  of  1859.  From  that 
time,  the  school  was  under  the  charge  successively  of  Messrs.  C.  S.  Fobes,  S.  B. 
Rawson  and  B.  G.  Ames,  until  Rev.  S.  H.  McCollister,  took  charge  in  the 
spring  of  1861.  Under  his  care,  the  institution  continued  to  prosper. 

"Rev.  J.  C.  Snow,  was  called,  in  1869,  and  under  his  wise  and  energetic  ad- 
ministration the  school  was  established  upon  its  present  basis.  Hersey-Hall 
and  the  new  dining-hall  were  built,  new  steam  apparatus  put  in,  and  other 
improvements  made,  to  the  total  amount  of  $40,000.  Mr.  William  A.  Post  came 
in  1872,  and  administered  affairs  ably  until  his  resignation,  in  the  fall  of  1873. 
"G.  M.  Bodge,  A.  M.,  was  called  to  take  charge  in  the  spring  of  1874,  and  the 
school  is  greatly  prospering  under  his  care. 

"The  institution  provides  two  courses  in  the  Collegiate  Department,  and  con- 
fers the  degree  of  Laureate  of  Arts,  upon  all  young  ladies,  who  successfully  pass 
examination  in  a  classical  course,  and  Laureate  of  Science,  in  the  scientific 
course.  In  the  Academic  Department,  Diplomas  are  granted  in  two  courses, 
English  and  College  Preparatory. 

"The  present  trustees  are:  Hon.  S.  F.  Hersey,  of  Bangor,  president;  D. 
Torrey,  vice-president;  Chas.  Fobes,  treasurer;  G.  M.  Stevens,  Esq.,  secretary. 
Members:  Hon.  I.  Wash  burn,  jr.,  Hon.  N.  G.  Hichborn,  Rev.  G.  W. 
Quinby,  Hon.  S.  Perham,  C.  S.  Fobes,  A.  M.,  Oliver  Moses,  Esq.,  Rufus 
Dunham,  Esq.,  Hon.  L.  L.  Wadsworth,  M.  B.  Coolidge,  A.  M.,  Rev.  W.  R. 
French,  Hon.  A.  C.  Dennison,  Rev.  A.  Battles,  Rev.  J.  C.  Snow,  W.  W.  Harris, 
Esq.,  C.  P.  Kimball,  Esq.,  N.  K.  Sawyer,  Esq.,  C.  Morrill,  Esq. 

Board  of  instruction:  G.  M.  Bodge,  A.  M.,  Principal;  I.  B.  Choate,  Prof,  of 
Latin  and  Greek ;  Rev.  H.  C.  Leonard,  Prof,  of  Belles  Lettres ;  F.  L.  Bartlett, 
Nat.  Science ;  M.  Johnson,  Mathemetics  and  Business ;  G.  A.  Quimby,  Prof,  of 
Music;  Mrs.  Helen  Boothby,  Perceptress,  Mrs.  S.  P.  Choate,  Drawing  and 
Painting;  Miss  J.  E.  Bodge,  Rhetoric  and  Composition;  Miss  Lizzie  Hoyt, 
Teacher  of  Music." 


PORTLAND   ILLUSTRATED. 


149 


OUB  BUSINESS   PKOSPECTS. 

Already  have  we  had  occasion  to  speak  of  our  business-men  and  business 
prospects,  encouragingly ;  but  enough  has  not  been  said.  Occasional  items  — 
with  here  and  there  suggestions  arising  out  of  incidents  that  have  occurred, 
while  this  vindication  of  Portland 
has  been  going  through  the  press, 
are  not  enough  to  satisfy  the  nat- 
ural desire  of  many  among  us,  to 
know  of  a  truth,  what  we  have  to 
depend  upon,  for  the  building  up 
of  a  great  commercial  centre  here 
in  Portland — just  here  — 

In  a  leader  of  the  Argus,  for 
October  9,  there  are  some  facts 
mentioned,  which  are  well  worthy 
of  attention  —  such  as  the  follow- 
ing: "The  panic,  which  caused 
such  a  crash  in  New- York  and 
other  large  business-centres,  hard- 
ly made  a  ripple  here.  The  busi- 
ness-men of  Portland  weathered  VIEW  AT  JITXC.  OF  FREE  AND  MIDDLE  STREETS. 
the  storm,  if  not  altogether  un- 
harmed, at  least  not  severely  affected ;  and  the  business  of  Portland,  as  a  whole, 
has  never  been  so  large,  safe  and  sound,  as  it  has  been  this  year.  All  depart- 
ments may  not  be 
doing  equally  well, 
but  all  are  making 
progress  —  are  pros- 
perous to  a  remark- 
able and  very  en- 
couraging degree, 
under  the  circum- 
stances, with  a 
broader  and  still 
more  hopeful  out- 
look for  the  future.'* 
"And  this,"  con- 
tinues the  editor, 
"this,  we  repeat,  is 
a  very  encouraging 
state  of  things.  It 
shows  that  Port- 
land, so  far  from 
'wilting,'  isprobably 
the  most  prosperous 
city  in  the  country, 
except,  perhaps,  San 


sion  in  many  parts  of  the  country,  she  is  making  real  progress,  her  trade  and  her 
population  constantly  increasing — not  very  rapidly  it  is  true,  as  compared  with 
what  has  been  seen  in  some  western  cities,  yet  still  making  a  healthy,  solid 


150 


PORTLAND    ILLUSTRATED. 


VIEW  COR.  EXCHANGE  AND  FEDERAL  STS. 


growth,  that  will  take  no  step  backwanl.  And  this  is  much,  in  fact  a  great 
deal  to  say,  at  such  a  period  as  this.  It  betokens  well  for  the  future  of  our 
beautiful  city," 

"In  proof  of  all  this,"  contin- 
ues the  writer,  "one  has  only 
to  take  a  look  about  town,  and 
consult  the  business-men  he 
meets.  There  in  scarcely  a  va- 
cant store  or  house.  On  the  con- 
trary the  demand  for  medium 
and  cheap  rents  is  very  brisk. 
Every  new  house  to  rent  is  at 
once  taken,  and  many  tenements 
have  been  fitted  up  over  stores. 
A  considerable  number  of  stores 
are  noiv  in  process  of  erection  or 
soon  to  be  undertaken  —  more 
than  at  any  season,  we  think,  since 
the  fall  after  the  great  fire,  and 
these  store*  are  nearly  all  engag- 
ed in  advance.  The  hotels  have 
been  full  all  the  season,  and  the 
'let  up,'  has  hardly  yet  come." 

And  now,   October  13th,  we 
have    the    following    editorial, 
from  our  cautious  and  trustworthy  Press,  corroborating  these  views,  in  lan- 
guage not  to  be  mistaken.  To  all  testimony  like  this  we  may  well  attach  great 

importance. 

"It  is  proper  matter  for  felicitation, 
that  this  stagnation,  which  is  so  con- 
spicuous in  New- York,  Boston,  and 
most  other  trade  centres,  is  hardly  per- 
ceptible here  in  Portland.  The  panic 
of  last  year,  which  had  so  crippling  an 
effect  elsewhere,  was  hardly  felt  here, 
as  our  people  have  for  many  years  de- 
voted themselves  almost  exclusively  to 
legitimate  business,  and  have  dabbled 
but  little  in  the  enticing  speculations 
whose  ruin  in  the  panic,  wrought  so  much 
des'ruction.  Portland  entered  upon 
the  present  year,  in  a  good  condition 
for  business,  and  has  been  exceptionally 
prosperous  in  nearly  every  branch  of 
commerce  and  industry. 
******** 

"There  is  a  general  agreement  among 
our  citizens  that  the  city  has  fairly  en- 
tered upon  an  era  of  growth,  in  wealth 
and  population,  and  this  view  is  fully 
confirmed  by  an  examination  of  the 
elements  of  prosperity  in  detail." 


VIEW  ON  FKEE    STKEET. 


CONTENTS. 


Akers,  Paul, 
Army  &  Navy  Union, 
Aged  Brotherhood, 
Architects,  our, 
Bishop's  Mansion, 
Board  of  Trade, 
Brooks,  James, 
Barnes,  Phineaa, 
Brown,  Harry 


22 
48 
76 
25 
30 
44 
50 
50 
65 

Beckett,  Chas.  E 74 

"       Sylvester  B.,  ...        76 

Burgess,  Fobes  &  Co.'s  White  Lead 

Factory, 108 

Bailey  &  Noyes, 135 

Business  Prospects,  our,        .        .        .      149 

City  Hall, 19 

Custom  House, 24 

Codman  Charles,  ....        28 

Cumberland  Bar  Association,  .  .  47 
Chickering,  Rev.  Dr.,  ...  48 

Congress  cttreet,  ....        70 

C.  P.  Kimball  Company,  ...  76 
Colesworthy,  D.  C.,  .  .  .  .  78 
Cummings,  Rev.  Asa,  D.  D.  .  .  86 
Carriage  Drives  around  Portland,'  .  88 

Consuls 103 

Congress  Square  Universalist  Church,  105 
Chestnut  Street  Methodist  Church,  .  108 

Climate  of  Portland 113 

Cahoon  Manufacturing  Co.,  .        .      108 

Casco  National  Bank,  .        .        .      115 

Canal  National  Bank  .        .        .      117 

Clergy,  our,  34 

Dry  Docks,  47 

Deering,  Nathaniel,  ....  49 
L'avies,  Charles  S.,  ....  87 
Deane,  Rev.  Samuel,  D.  D.,  .  .  87 
Exchange  St.,  before  and  since  the  Fire,  11 
Evergreen  Cemetery,  ...  91 

Eagle  Sugar  Refinery,  .        .        .136 

Freeman,  Samuel,  ....  31 
Forest  City  Sugar  Refinery,  .  .  46 

Fessenden,  Wm.  Pitt,  ...        50 

Female  Orphan  Asylum,  ...  62 
Falmouth  Hotel,  ....  73 

First  Parish  Church 93 

"    Baptist     "  ....      101 

"  National  Bank,  ....  Ill 
Fuller's  Varnish  Factory,  .  .  .  103 
Foretellings  and  their  Fullfilment,  .  124 
Greenleaf  Law  Library,  ...  48 
Grand  Army  of  the  Republic,  .  48,  144 
Greenleaf,  Moses,  ....  113 
Greenleaf,  Simon.  ....  102 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  .  .  .129 
Historical  Incidents,  ....  32 
Home  for  Aged  Women,  ...  64 

High  Street. 89 

Insurance  Companies.  .        .        .       122 

Kotzschmar,  Hermann,  ...  79 
Longfellow,  Henry  W.,  ...  20 

Lincoln  Park, 30 

Lumber  Trade,  our,       .        .        .        .104 

Merchant's  National  Bank,  .        .       119 

Military  Organizations,          .        .        .      120 

Middle  Street,  from  Post  Office,  .        85 

"      before  the  Fire,       .        .       14 

"      from  Market  Square,     .       49 


Martin,  Mrs.  Clara  Barnes,          . 

Murray,  Mrs.  Elizabeth,       .        . 

Mellen,  Greenville,        ... 

Mercantile  Library,       ... 

Musicians,  our,      .... 

Marine  Hospital 

Medical  Associations,   ... 

Merchant's  Exchange,  ... 

Maine  General  Hospital,       .. 

Market  Square, 

Mechanics'  Hall,    .... 

Maine  Savings  Bank,    ... 

National  Trader's  Bank,       .. 

Nichols,  Rev.  Ichabod,  .. 

Newspapers  and  Periodicals,        . 

Oaksmith.  Mrs.  Elizabeth,    .. 

Ottawa  House, 

Old  Orchard  Beach,       ... 

Observatory, 

Our  Country  Boys  Developed.       . 

Portland—  Past,  Pi  esent  and  Future, 

Our  New.  .. 

Dispensary,          .. 
"  Head  Light,         .. 

Stone  Ware  Co.,  . 

Cement  Drain  Pipe  Co., 

Kerosene  Oil  Co.,        . 

Star  Match  Co., 


.  8T 
.  104 
68,  116 
.  64 
.  40 
41 

.        43 

.        44 

.        46 

26 

.34 
.  134 
.  134 
.  31 
.  36 
.  80 
56 

.  63 
66 
140 

.  3 
18 
44 
61 
62 
62 
103 
107 


Gas  Co  ......  107 

High  School,        .        .        .107 

and  the  West,      ...  90 

Rapid  Growth  of  89 

Company,             ...  92 

Horticultural  Association,  117 

Savings  Bank,     .        .        .  123 

Mechanics  and  Apprentices,  138 

Private  Dwelling  Houses,              .        .  82 

Poor,  John  A.,               ....  95 

Payson  Memorial  Church,            .        .  97 

Percy,  Florence,    .....  72 

Public  Houses  and  Hotels,            .        .  73 

Preble  House,         .....  77 

Post  Office,             .....  21 

Prose  Writers,  our,        .....    31 

Public  Library,      .....  65 

Private  Banking  Houses,      .        .        .  134 

Ray,  Isaac,  M.  D.,          ....  32 

Reform  School  ......  37 

Rolling  Mills  ......  46 

Real  Estate  and  Building  Co.,      .        .  108 

State  Street,           .                 ...  81 

Sweat,  Mrs.  Margaret  J.  M.,        .        .  92 

Schools  and  Schoolhouses,            .        .  107 

Society  of  Natural  History,           .        .  64 

Safe  Deposit  Vaults,      ....  46 

Simmonds.  Franklin,            ...  42 

Stephens,  Mrs.  Ann  S.,          ...  69 

Titton,  John  Rollin  .....  66 

Theatres,  our,        .....  130 

United  States  Hotel,              ...  75 

Willis,  William,             ....  86 

"      N.  P  .......  38 

"      Sarah  Payson,            ...  39 

Widow's  Wood  society,         ...  62 

Ward's  Opera  House,                     .        .  80 

Women's  Christian  Association            .  72 

Westbrook  Seminary,            .        .        .  146 

Young  Men's  Christian  Association,    .  72 


152  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


IB  JL I L  IE  IT    <Sc 

AGENTS  FOR  CHICKERING  &  SONS' 

PIANO-FOETES, 

Concert  Grands,  Grands,  Squares  and  Uprights. 

The  Instruments  now  manufactured  by  this  well  known,  long  established  firm,  are  the 
results  of  half  a  century  of  study,  experiment  and  improvements.  Possessing  greater  advan- 
tages than  all  other  makers  through  this  long  period  of  increasing  experience,  two  generations 
of  active,  energetic  minds  have  been  assiduously  employed  in  perfecting  their  production. 

THE    CHICKERING    PIANOS 

are  now  at  the  head  of  all  the  instruments  manufactured  in  the  country.  For  purity  and 
sonority  of  tone,  elegance  of  finish,  thoroughness  and  durability,  of  structure,  they  rank  fore- 
most of  all. 

"With  the  merely  mechanical  excellence,  which  results  largely  from  the  ingenuous  inventions 
of  Messrs.  Chickering  themselves,  they  combine  a  beauty,  delicacy,  and  poetry  of  tone  which  is 
a  rare  charm,  and  seems  to  depend  more  on  the  intelligence  than  on  the  handiwork  of  the 
maker.  It  is  estimated  that  one  quarter  of  all  the  Pianos  used  in  America  is  of  their  make. 

THE  BRADBURY   PIANO  FORTE 

has  been  manufactured  about  twenty  years,  and  sold  extensively  throughout  the  United 
States.  This  instrument  is  peculiar  for  its  soft  tone;  particularly  adapted  fur  singing,  and 
gives  great  satisfaction.  Everybody  who  sings,  or  who  cares  in  the  least  for  music,  is  acquaint- 
ed with  the  name  of  the  originator  of  this  instrument.  The  music  of  WILLIAM  B.  BRADBURY 
is  sung  all  over  the  civilized  world,  and  the  fame  of  his  Piano-Fortes  is  fast  spreading  all 
through  our  land. 

We  shall  sell  our  stock  of  Chickering  and  Bradbury  Pianos,  at  the  reduced  prices,  and  all 
parties  intending  to  purchase  an  instrument,  will  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  enquire  our 
prices,  before  buying  elsewhere. 

MASON  &  HAMLIN'S  CABINET  ORGANS, 

for  which  we  are  also  the  agents,  stand  without  a  rival.  73,000  have  been  manufactured,  and 
they  alwaygive  UNIVERSAL  SATISFACTION. 

All  Piano-Fortes  and  Cabinet  Organs  sold  by  us  are  warranted  for  five  years. 

Remember  the  place. 

Bailey  &  3SToyes5 

EXCHANGE   STREET,  <£>  OUT  LAND, 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  153 


Where  to  Purchase  a  Piano. 

In  learning  to  play  the  piano,  the  beginner  needs  all  the  interest  which  the 
immediate  production  of  fine  tones  can  add  to  the  charms  of  novelty,  to  coun- 
terbalance the  undeniable  dullness  of  the  proper  exercises.  It  is  therefore  a 
very  essential  requisite  for  the  best  success  of  the  pupil  in  all  stages  of  progress, 
that  they  should  have  the  most  perfect  instrument.  The  best  Musical  Talent  of 
the  world,  pronounce  Checkering  &  Sons'  Pianos,  and  the  Bradbury  Piano- 
Forte,  the  finest  instruments  that  can  be  constructed.  Messrs.  Bailey  &  Noyes, 
of  this  city,  are  the  State  agents  for  these  Pianos,  and  also  for  the  Mason  & 
Hamlin  Cabinet  Organ.  We  think  no  one  who  has  a  family  should  count  a 
musical  instrument  as  an  extravagance ;  it  is  an  economy,  and  may  prove  in 
any  house  a  blessed  investment.  We  bought  of  Messrs.  Bailey  &  Noyes,  a 
piano  for  our  own  house,  and  are  very  happy  in  its  possession,  enjoying  it  so 
much  that  it  has  become  an  indispensable  comfort. — Parties  wishing  to  purchase 
will  please  accept  assurance  that  they  can  buy  Pianos  or  Organs,  at  the  lowest 
possible  rates  at  the  ware-rooms  of  Messrs.  Bailey  &  Noyes,  and  rely  upon  get- 
ting the  best. — Portland  Transcript. 


The  Chickering  Piano. 


We  invite  attention  to  the  advertisement  of  Messrs.  Bailey  &  N"oyes,  who 
are  agents  for  the  sale  of  the  Chickering  Pianos.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  prices 
have  been  reduced,  in  accordance  with  the  demand  of  the  times.  Of  the  qual- 
ity of  these  pianos  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  speak.  The  public  has  passed  fa- 
vorable judgement  upon  them  for  fifty  years,  and  the  forty-three  thousand  of 
these  instruments  now  in  use,  tells  of  the  skill  of  the  manufacturers  more 
eloquently  than  pen  can  do.  They  are  made  upon  honor,  and  personally  we 
confess  to  a  preference  for  them.  This,  however,  is  of  little  consequence. 
Others  may  prefer  those  of  other  makers,  but  purchasers  will  hardly  do  them- 
selves justice  who  buy  without  examining  these.  The  Messrs.  Bailey  &  Noyes 
have  a  large  assortment  in  all  the  various  styles  and  costliness  of  finish,  which 
they  are  happy  to  show  to  those  desirous  of  selecting  good  instruments. — Port- 
land Daily  Argus. 

Musical. 

We  would  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  Messrs.  Bailey  &  Noyes,  of  this  city, 
are  selling  Pianos  and  Cabinet  Organs,  at  the  lowest  possible  percentage  of 
profit — much  lower  than  they  have  ever  been  sold  in  this  State  before.  Parties 
wishing  to  purchase  Musical  Instruments  in  any  part  of  the  State,  will  find  it 
to  their  pecuniary  advantage  to  communicate  directly  with  these  gentlemen. 
They  have  the  wholesale  State  agency,  of  the  celebrated  Chickering  &  Sons', 
and  Bradbury  Pianos,  and  the  Mason  &  Hamlin  Organs.  All  these  instru- 
ments are  world  renowned,  and  need  no  special  commendation  from  us.  Yet 
we  may  speak  of  that  which  we  know,  having  one  of  these  Piano-Fortes  our- 
selves, which  has  proved  its  worth  to  our  entire  satisfaction.  Every  intelligent 
person  cognizant  of  musical  matters,  knows  how  essential  to  the  learner  and 
performer  is  the  really  perfect  instrument.  Most  emphatically  do  we  recom- 
mend our  readers  as  above,  and  are  sure  they  will  find  satisfaction. — Portland 
Transcript. 


154  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


THE   PORTLAND   TRANSCRIPT. 


A   FIRST-CLASS,   LITERARY  WEEKLY, 

Filled  with  Original  Stories  and  Sketches,  by  the  best  writers ;  Poems,  Essays ; 
Sketches  of  Travel  and  Adventure ;  Reviews  of  and  Extracts  from  New  Books ; 
Editorial  Comments  on  Passing  Events ;  Letters  from  Tourists ;  Foreign  and 
Domestic  News;  State  and  City  Items;  Fun  and  Sentiment;  Illustrated  Re- 
buses, Puzzles,  Enigmas,  &c. ;  Markets  and  Commercial  Review;  Marine  List. 

TERMS:  $2.50  per  year. 

$2.00  if  paid  strictly  in  Advance, 


Clubbing  with  other  Periodicals. 

The  Publishers  of  the  Transcript  have  made  arrangements  with  the  leading 
Magazines  and  other  Periodicals,  by  which  they  can  furnish  most  of  the  read- 
ing matter  desired,  at  rates  much  below  those  charged  when  not  taken  in  club. 

Send  for  specimen  copy  of  Portland  Transcript. 

For  full  particulars,  address, 

ELWELL,   PICKARD   &   CO., 

POKTLAND,  ME. 
TO    ADVERTISERS. 

The  Transcript  has  a  limited  space  devoted  to  advertisements,  and  its  great 
circulation  makes  it  the  best  possible  medium  for  business-men,  desiring  to 
attract  attention.  Its  circulation  surpasses  that  of  any  other  paper,  daily  or 
weekly,  in  the  city,  in  the  county,  and  in  the  State. 

For  further  information  and  for  terms,  apply  to  the  publishers. 

ELWELL,  PICKARD  &  CO., 

44  Exchange  St.,  Portland,  Me. 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  155 


FRANCIS   H.    COFFIN, 

Bookseller     and     Stationer, 


ISO   ]^I3DIDLE   STREET, 

(Under  Falmouth  Hotel.) 


Appleton's  American  Cyclopedia,  Ziemssen's  Cyclopedia 
of  the  practice  of  Medicine,  Guizot's  Popular  His- 
tory of  France,  and  other  Standard  Works, 
Sold  only  by  Subscription. 

AGENTS    WANTED! 

Importer's  agent  for  the  sale  of  the  Tauchnitz  Edition  of  British  and  German 
Authors. 
Sole  Agents  for  the  Heliotype  Publications  of  James  K.  Osgood  &  Co. 


THE    LARGEST  VABIETY  OF 


Pirie's,  Wove,  Repp  and  Double  Repp    Papers 
TO  BE  FOUND  IN   THE   CITY. 


REMEMBER! 

m  m*m  ^ 

FRANCIS    H.   COFFIN, 

Under  Falmouth  Hotel.  |2O    Middle    Street. 


156  ADVERTISEMENTS. 

Portland  Steam  Packet  Company. 


DAILY  LINE  OF  FIRST  CLASS  STEAMERS  BETWEEN 

BOSTON  AND  PORTLAND. 

ONE  OF  THE   FIRST-CLASS   STEAMERS   OF  THIS  LINE, 

TfinXf  BBflfllfQ    EATlfllMI    HflBBQ^   PTTV 
MM  JjnUUib,  rALfflUUlfl,  rUnlloI  bill, 

99  t 

Will  Leave  Franklin  Wharf,  Portland,  and  India  Wharf, 
Boston,  every  evening  ( Sundays  excepted)  throughout  the 
year. 

These  Steamers  are  well  furnished,  and  have  a  large  num- 
ber of  elegant  and  airy  State-rooms,  and  arrive  in  season  to 
take  the  earliest  trains  going  East  or  West. 

During  the  thirty  years  this  Line  has  been  in  existence, 
it  has  never  caused  injury  or  loss  of  life,  to  a  single  passen- 
ger. 

Time  of  Sailing : 

Leave  Portland  in  Summer  at  8  P.  M. 

"             «       «    Winter  at  -                        -      7  P.  M. 

Leave  Boston  in  Summer  at  7  P.  M. 

"         «       "   Winter   at  -      5  P.  M. 

Freight  taken  at  low  rates.  State-rooms  may  be  secured 
in  advance  by  mail,  or  by  application  at  the  Agent's  offices. 

WM.  WEEKS,  Ag't,         J.  B.  COYLE,  Jr.,  Gen.  Ag't, 
India  Wharf,  Boston.  Franklin  Wharf,  Portland. 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  157 


FURNITURE! 


ENOCH    LORD, 

DEALER  IN 

BLACK-WALNUT,    CHAMBER, 


AND   OTHER 

First-Class 


Having  unusual    facilities   for   manufacturing,  I  am  prepared   to  sell    lower    than    any 

one  in  the  City. 

Parlor  Suits  of  any  style,,  on.  hand  and, 
manufactured  to  order.  Slack.  "Walnut  and. 
tainted  Sets,  in  great  -variety,  constantly 
in  stock.  Marble  and  "Wood  Top  Tables, 
What-JVotSj  Sail  Stands  of  every  style, 
S~rrLO~k.ing  Chairs,  Carnp  Chairs,  JZasy  and 
(Reception  Chairs. 

PLEASE   CALL  AND   EXAMINE! 

ENOCH  LOUD, 

ISO  Exchange  Street, 


158  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


ESTABLISHED    1844. 

•  »  »  •. 

W.  L.   WILSON  &   C0.5 

Wholesale   and    Retail   Grocers. 


THE   LARGEST   STOCK! 

THE   BEST   GOODS!! 

THE    LOWEST   PRICES!!! 


Corner  of  Exchange  and  Federal  Streets, 
PORTLAND,    ME. 

BARNES    BROS., 

Q-eneral     Insurance      Agents, 

28  Exchange  St.,    -     -     Portland,  Me., 

(First  door  North  of  Merchant's  Exchange.) 
B.  BARNES,  Jr.  D.  H.  BARXES. 

m  m    m  ^    

ASSETS    REPRESENTED,    -    -    $1O,OOO,OOO. 


We  represent  Companies  unexcelled  in  Character  and  Standing,  by  those  of 
any  other  Agency  in  this  State. 

All  business  entrusted  to  us  will  be  attended  to  promptly,  and  in  good  faith, 
toward  all  parties  concerned. 

INSURANCE   STATISTICS   A    SPECIALTY. 

Reliable  information  as  to  the  STANDING  OF  COMPANIES  freely  communicat- 
ed. 
Superior  facilities  for  placing  large  lines  of  insurance. 

Barnes  Bros.,  Portland,  Me. 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  159 


SINGER  SEWING  MACHINES. 


The  table  of  Sewing  Machine  Sales  for  1873,  shows  that  our  sales  last  year, 
amounted  to  232,444,  (two  hundred  and  thirty-two  thousand,  four  hundred  and 
forty-four)  Machines,  being  a  large  increase  over  the  sales  of  the  previous  year, 
(1872.) 

The  table  also  shows  that  our  sales 

EXCEED  THOSE  OF  ANY  OTHER  COMPANY 

for  the  period  named,  by  the  number  of  113,254  Machines,  or  nearly  double 
those  of  any  other  Company. 

It  may  be  further  stated  that  the  sales  of  1873,  as  compared  with  those  of 
1872,  show  a  relatively  LARGER  INCREASE  beyond  the  sales  of  other  mak- 
ers, than  of  any  other  year. 

For  instance,  in  1872,  we  sold  45,000  more  Machines  than  any  other  Company, 
whereas,  in  1873,  the  sales  were  113,254  Machines 

IN  EXCESS  OF  OUR  HIGHEST  COMPETITOR. 

These  figures  are  all  the  more  remarkable,  for  the  reason  that  the  sales  of 
the  principal  Companies  in  1873,  are 

LESS  THAI  THEIM  SALES  IN  1872, 

whereas,  as  has  been  shown, 

Our  Sales  Have  Largely  Increased. 

The  account  of  sales  is  from  sworn  returns  made  to  the  owners  of  the  Sew- 
ing Machine  Patents. 

It  will  hardly  be  denied  that  the  Superiority  of  the  SINGER  MACHINES  is 
fully  demonstrated;  at  all  events  that  their  popularity  in  the  household  is 
unquestionable. 

H.    M.   WHEELOCK, 

JVew  JVo.  545;    Old.  JVo.    331    Congress   St., 
Agent  for  Portland  and  Vicinity. 


160  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


ESTABLISHED    1841. 


H.     H. 

JUNCTION  OF  FREE    &  MIDDLE  STREETS, 

Wholesale  and  Retail  Dealer  in 

Fine    Chemicals,    Pure    Drugs, 

GENUINE    MEDICINES, 

Also,  Varnishes,  Paints,  Oils,  Dye-Stuffs,  and  all  other 
articles  usually  kept  in  a  Drug  and  Paint  Establishment. 

Physicians'  Prescriptions  carefully  Compounded, 

FROM    SELECT   MATERIALS. 


"W.    S.    J 

BOOK    PUBLISHEK, 


PORTLAND,   ME. 


Agent  for  the  Best  Wood  Engravers  in  the  Country, 


Engravings  of  Public  Buildings,  Churches,  Banks, 
Private  Residences,  Machinery,  Models,  &c.,  &c.,  execut- 
ed in  first-class  shape,  and  at  engravers'  prices. 


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